dfaye

Are you shooting in low light or with a very small aperture? With the Auto ISO settings, the camera will respect the highest ISO you have set (in your case 800), but if it can't get enough light for a correct exposure at that ISO setting, it will lengthen the shutter speed until it *can* expose correctly, even if this means going below the minimum shutter speed you have set.

On the most recent bluetooth-equipped Fuji X cameras (X-H1, X-E3 etc) you can certainly turn it off - there is a menu setting specifically for that purpose. I can't imagine that Fuji would change this for the X-T3. After all, not everyone wants or needs to have bluetooth on permanently, and it does eat into battery power.

The delete/control dial shortcut is to format the card (but very useful to be reminded of it - thanks.) Would be good if - in some future update, perhaps - Change Slots could be assigned to a Function button - or at least added to My Menu. But then again, I don't change slots very often, and when I do it's usually by accident! I'd definitely like Format to be assignable to My Menu, though.

It's all a bit cumbersome having to menu-dive. The process is meant to be: Set-up menu (wrench icon) > Save Data Set-up > Switch Slot (Sequential): no choices offered, but if you simply hit "Switch Slot (Sequential)" a message comes up saying "Processing", and the slot is switched. It should then stay that way unless you switch slot again - or unless you turn the camera on without a card in one of the slots, in which case it switches automatically to whichever slot does have a card.

I said I’d report back on my first few days with the X-E3/XC15-45 combo, and I’m delighted to say that it exceeds my expectations. I knew the camera would be excellent - I'd handled one in a store and had studied the manual online. It’s beautifully made, well-designed and light, and of course works perfectly with the full range of Fuji glass. I hadn’t been able to actually handle the little XC 15-45 PZ lens before buying, but it was so cheap when bought as part of a kit with the X-E3 that it seemed worth taking a risk (and reviews have generally been pretty favourable). In fact, this lens is really very good indeed! It’s very sharp at all focal lengths/apertures, focuses close, has a nice overall rendering (rather like the much more expensive XF18-55), and gives a nice smooth rendering to out-of-focus areas. Distortion seems very well controlled, even in RAW files taken at 15mm, and so far I haven’t detected any fringing, either. The power zoom is much better than I thought it would be; slower than manual zoom, of course, but easy to get used to. A key feature for me is that it “remembers” its focal length setting when the camera is turned off (the lens retracts, then returns to its previous setting when you turn the camera on again). It has a 52mm filter thread and works quite happily with a filter attached. This is a great combo for everyday carry, as an ultra-light travel set-up or, indeed, as backup for another camera/lens combination. I’ve spent today out in the countryside with my 80mm macro on my X-H1 and with the little X-E3/15-45 combo in the bag in case I needed some wider-angle shots: so much easier than changing lenses in a dusty field - and so much lighter than bringing my X-Pro2 along as the second camera! All in all, then, I'm very glad I made the purchase - and I think the kit price for the combo is a real bargain. (And maybe, now that the X-T3 is taking all the limelight, the price might come down even further!) Just my few thoughts.

My thinking exactly. I ordered this combo a few hours ago - should arrive tomorrow, and I'll post my first impressions soon after that. (I'm not a fan of power zooms, but the little 15-45 was so cheap as a kit zoom it seemed silly not to try it, and I've got a decent collection of other Fuji glass I can use if I don't like it.) Meantime, I too would like to hear of other users' experiences with this combo.

So, it looks like the lens isn't communicating properly with the camera. With luck it might just be a tiny bit of dirt/fluff/oil etc on the contacts. Have you tried removing the lens and very gently cleaning the contacts on both lens and camera with a soft cloth?

I think you're right! I love shooting primes, but usually take at least one too many and find I barely use it: the answer is to take firm decisions at the outset. And I agree that bags matter, and it's not just a matter of functionality. A bag has to feel right. Good luck.

Wow, I'm impressed that you can fit all this into the F-5 XB! Going to Ireland, you're going to have some lovely landscapes, but also some great villages and towns, so you'll have good reason to use all of those lenses. The Fuji F2 trio (23/35/50) make a great travel set, and the Samyang 12mm is a brilliant little lens. If it were me, I'd definitely take those four. But the Samyang 85mm could be really useful too, so - I have to say it! - could you maybe take a very slightly larger bag? Whatever you decide, have a great trip!

Update your firmware, then shoot RAW+Jpeg: the latest X-Pro2 firmware allows you to save a RAW file when you shoot Advanced Filters - so if you go into Advanced Filters accidentally, you can just just trash the Jpeg.

Hi Kennuck, Not sure which camera you have, but you should find the answer towards the beginning of the manual in the section "Command dials". Pages 7-8 in the current X-T2 manual.

Yes, turning on the new "large indicators" option causes the digital exposure compensation display to disappear by default, as well as the focus distance bar. (But the digital exposure comp display can be recovered on the Large Indicators Display Setting menu page.)

I guess you've checked to make sure it hasn't accidentally become unticked in Set-up > Screen set-up > Display Custom Setting? It might be worth unticking/ticking several times, exiting the menu page each time you do so; I think that sometimes these settings can require a bit of effort to make them register.

The Velvia looks really good there. And some really lovely shots. Thanks for sharing.

Yes, Velvia works well, but the lens on the X100F has a fairly warm rendering, and I find that with Velvia it can sometimes make the greens (in particular) a bit too vivid for my taste. I like Astia, too: it's a little bit more subtle, though still nicely colourful. And you can't go too far wrong with Provia, which is well-balanced as to colour and contrast. It's all a matter of taste, though. Why not play around with these three for starters, and then enjoy experimenting with the rest.

You could try this (which I seem to remember worked for me on a previous occasion): go to Settings (wrench) > Screen set-up > Framing guideline (second page), then change the setting from Grid 9 to one of the other two settings, then exit the menus; THEN go back in and change that setting it back to Grid 9. On the Display Custom Setting menu you could also try unchecking the framing guideline box, and then re-checking it (although I guess you will have tried this). It's as if these display settings sometimes get stuck, or maybe take a little time to register. Good luck, anyway!

Yes, loud and not good if you've sprained your thumbs! But pretty bomb-proof, I think. Still good on my old Peli, which has had some fairly rough treatment. (I'm still trying to decide whether to buy the new Air model...)

Ha ha! You reckon? Buying camera bags seems to be rather addictive. But at least the Peli should survive any forthcoming apocalypse.

Thanks for the photo and description, Him. This new light(er) weight Air range looks very interesting. I have one of the earlier style Peli cases - the Peli 1450 - which is smaller than the Air 1485 but over 1kg heavier. It's a brilliant case, which I used to use when I went camping. I remember waking one night during heavy rain to find the Peli literally floating on a flooded campsite, but it remained completely dry inside. It's saved my gear on a few other occasions as well, and it's also great for carrying gear in the boot of the car on bumpy country roads. It IS heavy, though. It would be nice to have something equally strong but lighter, like the Air 1485. And it looks as though they've improved the divider set as well. So, as I say, thanks for the post. You might have lured me into spending more money!

Also, check that the eyecup is firmly in place: push it downwards to make sure it has clicked into place. If it has become dislodged and has slid upwards, even a little, it will block the little sensor window at the base of the EVF. This will make the camera "think" that you're using the EVF rather than the LCD.

I suggest always - ALWAYS - using the camera in Boost mode (whether you've got the grip fitted or not). The X-T2/X-Pro2 are both slow and jittery in Normal mode - and the X-H1 is even worse. I think "Normal mode" is a misnomer: it should be called something like "Battery-saving mode" or "Economy mode" instead. (I'm not saying this is the answer to the problems you've described, but using Normal mode won't have helped.) Hope you get it sorted soon - good luck!

That's really weird, attaz. I wonder how they managed that?! At least it should be a quick repair this time. (I know how you feel, though: for the first 7 months that I had my XF100-400mm (that I mentioned above), I had it in my hands for only about 6 weeks in between repairs until it finally came right. But it was worth the effort.) The X-Pro2 is a great camera: I hope you get a chance to really enjoy it soon. Thanks for the update.

Very interested to hear this, attaz - and glad you've got it sorted. I hope everything's good when it arrives. (I had an XF100-400 where they had to replace the motherboard 3 times, but I suspect that was just exceptional bad luck!) Thanks for the update.

I'm sorry you're still having problems with the X-Pro2, attaz. I haven't experienced anything like this with mine, but I'll be very interested to hear what the problem turns out to be, so please keep the updates coming. If I were you, I'd definitely get Fuji to take a look: it should work on all settings straight out of the box, and you shouldn't have to mess around as described in your post of 3 May. Good luck!

I have both styles of lens hood (the cheap JJC alternatives): not sure which one I prefer. I find that, when the filter is fitted, the hood is useful to minimise flare if shooting into the light, but it does add bulk and make the camera less unobtrusive for things like street photography. Without the filter on the front, the lens is shaded by its own housing, so it doesn't catch the light and the problem of flare is reduced. I guess one day I might feel brave enough to remove the filter altogether and use the camera as designed. But not while it's still so new!