
MrT
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Everything posted by MrT
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Same problem with X100V, reconfiguring WiFi access didn't help. Guess I will have to wait for Fuji app update...
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And I meant to say that since the latest firmware updates, I really don't notice a difference in focussing speed between the two cameras. The EVF is nicer in the X-T2, especially with the vertical battery grip installed (the frame rate is higher), and it is has a flippy screen (which I don't use that often). But that's about it. Go with your instincts.
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With the longer/heavier lenses I prefer to use the XT-2. I don't have the 16-55 f/2.8 but I do have the 100-400, which is Fuji's largest, and recently I bought the 80mm f/2.8 macro (also heavy). My reason for using heavy glass on the XT-2 is because I normally have the vertical battery grip installed, this balances much better with the large lenses. Also, the extra shutter release button for vertical shooting is ergonomically better in every way. None of these reasons matter for the smaller lenses which is why they are better suited to the X-Pro2, both aesthetically and ergonomically. There are some lenses that work on both cameras such as the 16mm f/1.4, 23mm f/1.4 and 56mm f/1.2, and you often see an X-Pro2 combined with these. But if I didn't have the vertical battery grip for the X-T2, the difference wouldn't be so clear. Having said that, I am happy using my right eye for the X-Pro2 and the left eye for the X-T2. If you have a strong eye preference either way, use that to guide you as well.
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Here's another. 16 frames at f/5.6 1/30 sec, stacked. For best results, I am turning off the OIS. Obviously freehand at 1/30 isn't going to work.
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Here's my first test with the 80mm macro. Very impressed with the sharpness and micro-contrast. I don't find the bokeh so disagreeable but it's not on the same level as the 90mm, which is why I am keeping both. 42 frames @ f/5, stacked in Affinity Photo
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I have both the X-T2 and X-Pro2 and I use them both equally but differently. You can find a lot written about the user experience online and I won't repeat it at length, because it matches mine: X-Pro2 for people, cities, travel, or anything where discretion is a factor. It goes in a Billingham bag with the lightweight 23/35/50mm f2 lenses. X-T2 for landscapes, macro, or anything where critical framing and a tilt screen is important. It goes in a LowePro rucksack with a bunch of heavy primes. So the short answer for you is X-T2.
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Beat me to it by seconds!
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Do you have the OIS on continuous (mode 1) or shooting only (mode 2)? Keeping it on continuous is not necessary and will drain the battery. The 16 and 35mm 1.4 lenses you own are not OIS so you won't have experienced this yet. You can find the IS settings under the Shooting section of the menu
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I have the 90mm and I am looking forward to getting the 80mm once I can justify the cost! From my experience of the 90mm, the best way of stopping this noise from being annoying it to store the lens upright when it's not on the camera. Gravity stops the magnets (?) from moving around when the linear motors are not under power.
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Depends. Landscape = X-T2 + 16mm f/1.4 23mm f/1.4 56mm f/1.2 (or 90mm f/2, can't decide... can I have a 4th?) Street/people/travel = X-Pro2 + 23mm f/2 35mm f/2 50mm f/2
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LCD turns off review, when shaded with hand
MrT replied to huck222's topic in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20
You can set the view mode for chimping separately. On my X-T2 I use eye sensor mode for taking pictures but LCD only for image review. The playback button on the X-T2 is too close to the eye sensor. You need to take the camera from your eye to press the play button, so you are going to be using the LCD in any case. If you set the view mode for playback to LCD only, it won't trigger the eye sensor. That isn't a problem for my X-Pro2 where the play button is easily reachable with the right thumb while the camera is at the eye. On the X-Pro2 I use eye sensor mode for playback as well, this allows for stealthy chimping (but only with the X-Pro2 and not the X-T2). This is why I bought both bodies, they each have their strengths and weaknesses.- 1 reply
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- eye sensor
- LCD
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I have an Nissin Air 1 so what does Air10s do for me?
MrT replied to Randy Pollock's topic in Flash Photography with Fuji X
And here's a picture. -
I have an Nissin Air 1 so what does Air10s do for me?
MrT replied to Randy Pollock's topic in Flash Photography with Fuji X
I just answered my own question. Nissin will be releasing the Canon-mount version of the Air 10S on the 27th October. Presumably the other models will follow soon. -
I have an Nissin Air 1 so what does Air10s do for me?
MrT replied to Randy Pollock's topic in Flash Photography with Fuji X
Has anyone heard when the Nissin Air 10S is going to be released? Their website says July but clearly that hasn't happened. I know there was talk of it coming out in November but when I asked the UK distributor Kenro, they told me that they have no news. Perhaps the distributors in other counties are more forthcoming? -
Thanks, they look perfect and a lot cheaper than Fuji!
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Thanks Mike and milandro, but the 50mm f2.0 has a ø46mm. Otherwise the ø43mm hood for the 35mm would fit. I should have made that clearer. The 23mm f1.4 is ø62mm (like the 56mm f1.2).
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Thanks Mike. I also looked and couldn't find one either. Perhaps Fuji wants to take my money for a metal one like they did for the 23 and 35mm. It's a better hood than the JJC versions because it uses the bayonet fitting on the outside of the lens (the JJC ones are screw-in, I think). The 50mm also has bayonet lugs so Fuji could make one if they wanted.
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Sorry that should have been "Fuji metal hood for the 35 and 23mm f2.0 lenses"
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Has anyone found a high quality replacement lens hood for the new 50mm f2.0 lens? It's a great lens but as usual the lens hood is rather cheap plastic. I've got the expensive Fuji metal hood for the 50 and 23mm f2.0 lenses but it won't fit the 50mm. Any ideas?
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You won't regret it. I am a prime lens person but the 100-400 is an outstanding zoom lens. Easily worth the money and weight. Practice with it before you go to SA and enjoy the trip!
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I went on a safari in Botswana in 2004. I was still shooting film and took my trusty and indestructible Nikon F2. My longest lens was the 300 mm f4.5. For those who don't know old Nikon primes, it is a traditional telephoto: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/300ais.htm I used that lens most of the time, apart from a 24 mm wide-angle for some landscapes. But I do remember wishing that it was longer and faster. Most of the shots weren't close enough and a good number suffered from motion blur – even with the bright African sun, the combination of f4.5 and 100 ISO film meant that the shutter speed wasn't enough to compensate for the vibration of the jeep. If I were doing it again today, I would definitely take the 100-400. No question. Yes it is heavy but what you get in return is more than worth the hassle of carrying it around. Plus the OIS will give you sharp photos without motion bur. You will regret it forever if you don't take it. If you want to save on weight, take only one other lens. You really should take WR lenses, not because of the rain but the fine dust. That rules out the 23 mm f1.4 but not the 16 mm f1.4, which is also a better lens. Alternatively you could take the 16-55mm f2.8 if you have it, because it is also WR. Zoom lenses make sense on safari because you minimise the risk of getting dust on the sensor. And of course you will need a WR camera. One other thing: get a small beanbag. You use it as a cushion on the side of the jeep to steady the lens. Quick to deploy and really effective. If you want to save on weight on the flight, get an empty one and fill it with South African sand.
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Recommandation for a >85mm landscape lens
MrT replied to Sebastian_Warneke's topic in Adapting lenses to Fuji X
And I forgot to say that this lens has real history, it brought Nikon to international attention in the 1950s -
Recommandation for a >85mm landscape lens
MrT replied to Sebastian_Warneke's topic in Adapting lenses to Fuji X
Get a used Nikon 105mm f2.5 from eBay. Get the AI-s version made until 2005. Optically superb and built like a tank. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3933527 -
The 90mm f/2 does the same thing but only louder. It sounds like something is loose in the lens until the camera is turned on, I guess the AF holds something in place and it obviously needs power
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Another suggestion for a 55mm lens would be a Minolta MC Rokkor PF 55mm f/1.7 lens. I was given one of these recently and bought a cheap adapter to mount it on my X-Pro2. It looks and works really well, super sharp if stopped down just a bit and nice bokeh between f/1.7 - 2.8. This lens was made in the millions in the late 60s to early 70s as a kit lens with the SRT101, it will be really cheap on eBay now. This guy also had a good experience with it: https://jonasraskphotography.com/2013/06/27/the-tale-of-the-minolta-55mm-f1-7/