George_P

full size here

My wife's roses are elusive characters: in daylight their petals look waxy as if they had no texture at all and they also like to bounce about in the wind like crazy. But I got even with them - I sneaked at them late in the evening with a pair of strobes. Gotcha ! What do you think. The sharpening may seem too much but the intent is for print. full size here

After writing this I said to myself "go try the raw developing in ACDSee". Haven't used it for a long time. SilkyPix has the Fujifilm Film Profiles and I default to that. This is what came out. What do you think of it guys and gals. Full size here. (credits: sorry, I do not know who made this. It is a part of a statue of a bull that I saw at the Maker Faire in Vienna.)

Sebastian, that is a short but difficult question. This was my second time there, first time was in March, skiing. You establish a special relationship with the peak of every Passo that you climb by bike, believe me that. But there are so many beautiful views. I was up on the Marmolada in winter and also on the Sasso Pordoi and Porto Vescovo - breathtaking views. I find it impossible to pick just one. btw that must have been a challenge also for the Fiat 500 🙂

WOW !!! I was there in July, but I got almost no pictures, because I was there for a different purpose. I got the Pordoi (3x), the Sella, the Gardena, the Campolongo (2x), the Giau, the Falzareggo and the Valparole. On bicycle. Missed the Fedaia though. Too much rain.

Hullo, welcome. I am a bit unorthodox maybe with what I use but it works very well for me. (I use Windows 10.) For many years, I have been using ACDSee to manage my files. You simply copy your files to any directories of your choice and you look at them with ACDSee - the result is immediate, no slow imports or anything. It creates its thumbnails as you are looking at the directory. (You can let it do a whole structure at once if you wish). You can assign tags, ratings, labels, keywords etc. - plenty ways to organise your files. All this goes into a database in the program where this data about your files, incl. the thumbnails, is stored. You can have several databases and switch between them. I only have 440GB of photos in my directories, and that is 51.000 files, the db has 4.8GB. More files should not be any issue. Speed-wise everything works instantly - no waiting for anything. After a shoot I stick the memory card into the card reader and I let ACDSee import the files into my folder structure, creating new folders with names by dates or otherwise, making backup copies straightaway to another disk, deleting the files from the card... all this goes as fast as the card reader can provide. Then I delete the bad ones of course (I label them red, work through the folder, check/reconsider and then delete all reds. Not from the backup disk). Then I rate or label the ones I want to deal with. Often I use the jpeg (that is the advantage of Fuji) and most of the time for edits I am perfectly served in ACDSee directly. Have a look on their web-site to see what the software can do as far as editing goes. Plenty of tutorials there that show off the possibilities. I have the NIK collection (as a Plug-in in ACDsee) but I never use it. The ones that I decide to develop from raw go into SilkyPix (called directly from ACDSee) and then back for editing. There is a RAW editing module in ACDSee too but I use SilkyPix. When I print, I do it directly from ACDsee using colour profiles for the various papers that I use. Fast, cheap, simple, robust and reliable. You can download a free trial version. I am not a photographer, so the pros out there will probably scorn at me, but I have been an IT guy for 40 yrs. and this is what I chose. Cheers, good luck.

How can you call such a wonderful thing a “beast” ? 😀 Enjoy. btw did you upgrade the firmware ? Kids hardly ever keep still. (make sure you follow the instructions - with a charged battery etc.).

In ACDSee you can. I mean if you use it not just for DAM but also for editing (and developing). I use it for DAM and for editing, but I hardly ever copy/paste edits as I never do batches of similar photos.

For you, it is a “blunder”. For others, it is a design choice. But OK, after going to sleep I would say it could stay switched on. Let us ask Fuji politely to be so kind to consider our suggestion. They are unlikely to read it here, though.

Depends on what you shoot. Are you a sports shooter. Do you do a lot in low light. etc.

Congratulations on your new X-T2, merlin. You are not a sports shooter so you would not get that much benefit from getting the X-T3. I did the same. Be sure to update your firmware to the latest version on both cameras and on the lenses. Be sure to follow the instructions while you do that. I am looking forward to more nice pictures from New Mexico. Cheers !

Congratulations to your X-T2 and welcome. You will surely enjoy that camera.

I don’t have the 80 so I can’t tell you but I was going to ask the same question about my 18-55 - a very faint noise that is there no matter if the OIS switch is on or off and regardless of the OIS mode set in camera. This is on X-T2 with the latest firmware. What camera/firmware version do you have ?

I use ACDSee. Fast, reliable even with a huge database, you can switch between several db, and you have photo editing (and raw developing) modes integrated into the same package, layer-based, non-destructive. Have a look at the list of their video tutorials on their site to get a quick idea of the features. For raw developing I use Silkypix (called straight from ACDSee).

+1 The best system for me for sure. The sweet spot of size/weight/performance/price/lenses/image quality/operability(those wonderful dials)/build quality/support(firmware updates). X-T3: wow. Compliments to Fuji.

Beautiful.

Filip, otoh, when you are outside you would miss the 90. Or when you need to reach to the stage in not so good light when your kid starts playing in school plays. So I provide you a good excuse to keep the 90 and buy another lens. For inside I would say the 35 (f2?) is maybe an ever better focal length than the 56. Cheers George

Mike, Here is some more of that white stuff for you, you seem to have not enough over there. This is actually from Italy (last week) but that is eastwards from you too, isn't it.

This one is too.

You stole that from your grandmother's cupboard, didn't you :-). Beautiful

It seems everyone is busy before Christmas and you have been left waiting for an answer, so I will try to help. I have had good experience with the 90mm f2 at concerts, at ISO 3200-6400 I was able to use shutter speed 250-500 to freeze the movements of the performers and the focal length was good for me as I was taking pictures from my place - not walking close to the stage and getting in the way of professional photographers which I am not. Camerawise I have the X-T10 and I use zone focusing or manual focus which is very easy on Fuji, so I can do without the faster focusing speeds that are present on the X-T2, X-T20 or x-E3. So if your budget is tight, you can get an X-T10, they are very cheap now. Image quality is practically the same on all of these cameras (i.e. excellent). The newer ones have a 24Mpix sensor as opposed to the 16 MPix sensor on the older ones, but this is mostly irrelevant unless you want to print your pictures in really big sizes. What is best for you depends on many factors, there are tons of information on this blog and elsewhere. Lots of reviews on lenses and cameras. Have a good read and then ask some more questions. If you look at the concert ph. thread, you can see for instance milaber22 using the 8mm fisheye for a totally different approach. Depends. Welcome to the forum and let us know how you are getting on.

Merlin, this must have been the Hike of the Year. You get to see amazing places ! Cheers.

Amazon River Tribes Just kidding - some members of a rowing club on the Danube river.

18-55mm, Classic Chrome, Colour+1, Sharpness+1, WB Auto. The confluence of Danube and Morava.