George_P

You are welcome. That shop is not far from the routes that I travel. If they will have the Fuji version on stock, I will try again. I am interested to know, I am considering getting the small one myself. Yes, I learned several good bits of information from this site when I started with Fuji. I am just a blundering hobbyist, but there are some highly knowledgeable folks around and they post some very beautiful images, too.

All kind of creatures...

Are these ads from a potential client that you are interested in ? Send them a fine print from an image taken with your Fuji, with an explanation that for that kind of work your not-full-frame camera is more than fine enough and other things matter much more than the size of the sensor.

@sixtygp This is really beautiful, thanks for sharing. Welcome to the party. Where is it from ?

Now this one is weird. It is SOOC (except for a slight lift of the shadows to brighten up the trees a little). I did nothing at all regarding sharpening (sharpening zero) and I took the JPG, not the RAF. I just resized it to smaller size and that is what I put here. I dunno how it looks like on FullHD screens (I have a 4K monitor), but on my screen it looks so insanely sharp that it is too much I think, both the full size and the resized one. What I find interesting is, usually with C1 when I open a RAF it looks better or at least as good as the SOOC JPG, with defaults. But with this image and a few similar ones from the same series there is no way I can tweak the RAF to get the same amount of detail (is micro-contrast the popular term?) as the SOOC JPG. Somehow the RAF looks way softer than the SOOC JPG, no matter how I try with sharpening, structure etc. Anyway, here it is:

Do not worry Jerryy, chasing our sons keeps me warm all right. But you ought to dip your feet in some snow (nudge). I know you are the king of Fall Pictures, but the fall season is over ! This is an open topic ! 😎

So... I stopped at the shop but I did not get anywhere, because they had only the Nikon version of the TT350 on store and I could not get it to switch on the AF assist beam, neither remote nor direct. There was no Nikon camera on hand (it is a shop that sells studio equipment and strobes, no cameras). The owner confirmed that the TT685 and V860 shine a grid pattern, but he could not say about the TT350. I can not help you further now, I hope someone else will.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4261086 OTOH, this review: https://fstoppers.com/originals/fstoppers-reviews-godox-thinklite-tt350f-flash-fujifilm-x-183252 says the direct opposite - that the af beam is too strong. How can two opinions on the same thing be so opposite ? Is it completely different in the V860II vs the TT350 ? I don´t have time to google around, I am considering to stop at a shop to try it out while I will be on the move between two meetings in the city. I will let you know if I manage to do that.

Sorry, I can not help you directly regarding the TT350. I have the AD200. But this has been said by "dotjon" on a dpreview blog (quote): Hi, I just tested this on X-T2 and V860II, and turns out you need to have AF Illuminator enabled also from the camera settings (and obviously enabled on the speedlight). It uses the speedlight led instead of the camera's own. According to the manual, it doesn't work in HSS mode, so that's one more thing to check if this doesn't work for you. Also, it works great, it's a sharp grid pattern and allows focusing in pretty much pitch black dark without blinding anyone. Also, the Godox manual says the AF assist beam will work at shutter speeds below 1/200, so not for HSS, apparently. And it should work for the X-T1. If you google around a little, you should be able to find more on this.

Thank you, sir ! You are very kind. I was just lucky to be there at the right time. But, on a holiday with my three sons and my wife, as usual, it was a "shoot quickly and run" affair - no time for some serious business like using a stative or filters or composing carefully. These were all taken with my X-T10 (before I bought the X-T2). What a little jewel of a camera that is.

Sorry, maybe I did not put it in a good way. The Godox flashes work well, that includes the TT350 and the autofocus assist. That is my answer to your first question. I can only give you my opinion but plenty of reviews on the Godox flashes say the same thing. I would suggest one of the models with Li-Ion accus (V350F is the one in similar size and power to the TT350F). That I volunteered as extra information to your question, please disregard it if you do not find it useful. I think the Godox are better than the Nissin, in my opinion. That is the answer to your second question. I also volunteered some extra information about the remotes and about the Meike flash, please disregard also it if you do not find it useful.

I would go for a Godox with a Li-Ion Accu and the remote tx (XPro-F). Plenty of reviews on the net. If you don´t insist on HSS and like the idea of something really cheap (and small and light) but well built, look at the Meike MK320 and maybe the FlashQ remote tx/rx (only manual with the FlashQ, TTL when on camera).

If you´ll pardon a bw version of the same one. I can´t decide which one is better.

The distant high peak is Monte Antelao (3264m), further to the right (invisible) is Marmolada (3343m). I rather like this one. Looks like a nicely peaceful scene, but if you want to see what the conditions were really like, have a look at this (with sound on !). It was freezing cold, I could hardly operate my poor camera.

Thanks Merlin, thanks Jerryy. I went looking for something to post because Jerryy poked me in the ribs with his elbow the other day (rightly so) 🙂 These were taken with the X-T10 and 18-55 in the Austrian Alps.