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About eurotrash

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  • Birthday 10/26/1983

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    Washington DC Metro
  • Interests
    Beer. Cameras. Music

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  1. You can, they're the same media. But the question would be "why bother?", when the price of standard SDXC cards aren't exactly wallet-melting. Agreed with the prior post citing issues of fitment inside the adapter having the propensity to cause issues. I just don't trust it in the same way as a card designed to fit in that slot, you know?
  2. You're right, the phrasing of the question is still confusing me, lol. So, you're right. When shooting video I usually (and probably obviously) just select my framerate in settings and then double my selected shutter speed using the T(time) selector on my wheel, then fine tune to whatever I want it to be using the command dials. It's really not that big a deal for me to take the extra few seconds to select the shutter speed, but everyone has different degrees of need in this regard, I suppose. The issue I see with making it automatic in settings is that the amount of users with this particular need is probably very low. I'm personally all over the map in video depending on the scene in question and not always using a specific framerate AND shutter speed every single time I shoot video.
  3. I understand now, thanks. However, on MY XH1, I don't need to do this as the shutter speed automatically switches no matter what position the command dial is in previously. When you switch to movie mode and you have a shutter speed set at say, 1/180th of a second, does the top LCD not say 24p (or whatever you chose under 'movie settings')? Your chosen setting under 'movie settings' should override any command dial setting and display the correct framerate on the top lcd, is what I'm trying to say. Of course, this isn't completely intuitive because you're sitting there looking at a dial that says 1/180th, but that's what you get with mechanical dials in a digital body. The only way they could synchronize it would be to add some kind of motor to the dial itself, allowing it to automatically turn to your chosen speed when you flip into video mode, I suppose.
  4. I don't know if anyone has experience using the magmod system but I'm experiencing a strange issue where the magnets inside the maggrip will cause the flash to trigger randomly. This doesn't happen with my YN560's or any other flashes I have. Tapping the flash sometimes will cause it to fire as well but it's so intermittent that I can't pinpoint weather it's the magmod base or just jostling that is causing the flash to randomly fire.. I bought this flash not long ago so there's likely some warranty that exists in some form or fashion but I need to know what everyone thinks. Got a wedding coming up and I'm trying to lighten my kit down with the Godox flash and not rely on the big flashes so much. Video for helpfulness. Apologies about video orientation! Caution, much banging of things against each other..Flash fires at about 1:00 or so:
  5. That would certainly be some setting! But as others have stated, the laws of physics still apply and the only real way to get that sweet, sweet 1:1 magnification is to buy a lens suited to the task. (That new 80mm macro looks awesome, btw..) You lose something, always. In the case of the converter, you do lose a stop of light and possibly some depth of field control, something you absolutely would want if you're doing macro work.
  6. 🤷🏻‍♂️delete
  7. "I would like to see in the MOVIE SETTINGS, an option where I can select the default shutter speed for the 30 and 60 on the shutter speed dial, only when I am in MOVIE MODE, obviously." Forgive me for not understanding, I'm not exactly sure what you're asking here. You can specify 48, 24, 30, 60 in the movie settings in-camera and when switching over to video mode, it will display that framerate. Are you saying you want to see it on the top selector dial instead or the opposite?
  8. Are you seeing what's referred to as 'banding' in areas when using a CPL or are you seeing a different degree of polarization in one corner vs. others? The problem with CPL's is, the effective degree of light polarization changes across the sky with respect to the angle of the sun to the axis of the lens. I find I must often accept a smaller but more uniform effect over the full frame vs. optimum in one corner. One very obvious way to test this is to take the same image on a Pentax camera and one on your Fuji using the same polarizing filter.
  9. Personally in a situation like that where I'm not actively 'working' and on vacation, I want to be as lightweight and mobile as possible. Again, I'd be shooting for fun, not spending too much time away from my family to take photographs. There'd be no way I'd want to take dual bodies in a scenario like that, personally. Looking at MY lens selection, I'd pop the 16-55 on during daytime and evening on the XH-1 and take the 23 1.4 for the darkest of allyways and corridors. The 16-55 has that foul weather advantage and I've dealt with that in Paris before.. That'd cover the majority of what I would be up to. If I were you, I'd just take that 18-55 and one good low light lens and be good to go, that lens isn't bad at all. If I were to take primes, it'd be the Zeiss 12 (or Fuji 14, whatever), 23 and 56. That would also be an acceptable option, at greater weight expense. 16-55mm: 23.2oz or 1.45 pounds 12, 23, 56: 10.2oz, 11.3oz, 14.3oz = 35.8oz or 2.23 pounds
  10. So when you tilt the camera to the left from landscape mode, that's the only time you hear it? I have not noticed this on mine, no matter the orientation or tilt..
  11. At this point, you're unlikely to see a huge return from the XT1 as it's definitely aging. I'm seeing them sold used for somewhere in the ~$220 - $250 range for a decent copy on fleabay. That said, the upgrade even to the XT2 is huge compared to the XT1. I've been thinking of selling mine off as I still have an XE2 with the same sensor and a couple XH's around now so it's mostly just collecting figurative dust. Any extra cash can go back into something else, it's made it's money back and someone else could use it. EDIT: Ah, just saw you got an XT3, nice score! Bet you'll love it
  12. The things missing from mirrorless cameras are the pentaprism and mirror box. These are the main reasons mirrorless camera bodies are able to have a smaller footprint. What you're seeing in the OVF of say, the X-Pro 2, is still 'through the lens', albeit light entering the lens doesn't need to pass through the pentaprism and bounce up through an array of mirrors multiple times and direct itself towards the OVF. It's literally the same thing, just made smaller due to not needing all the components that make up a traditional DSLR, thus saving space.
  13. Latest Fuji Summit might have something that catches your interest!
  14. I've never 'gotten' blogging, but I figured since I have the time I might as well start. If anything it would be good to document my work so later on down the line I can look back at it and improve. If you have any suggestions on blogging, that'd be cool too. I'm not really sure how it's supposed to work, I just tried to include a rundown of the event and provided photographic proof of what I shot, essentially. If anyone is interested at all, I've linked it here. https://www.andrewpphoto.com/Blog/RLJ-Lodging-Holiday-Party-18
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