Jump to content

Recommended Posts

mart46, you are right. I got Fuji on the phone and the tech explained that there is no way to turn it off, however, if you are shooting raw, it only shows the effects on the LCD. Once the card is read by the computer, it is a normal raw image with no film simulation effect. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I may be a tad late to this party but if you ever shot film that was a "film simulation" whether you liked it or not.  I used to shoot Fuji Velvia, or Kodak Vericolor, or Ilford B&W etc, etc  

With that said you can create a custom setting on the Fuji that will give you the FLATTEST look possible if that's what you are looking for.  There are certain settings if you want to capture the maximum dynamic range, etc.  I use this one as my C7 setting on my 50r and other Fuji's but the images in the LCD look like crap.  So plan on doing post-processing.  

If you are that unhappy with the simulations maybe try Provia.  It's as plain vanilla as you can get I think

Link to post
Share on other sites

Provia is indeed the most standard film simulation of all. When you use that as a starting point and create a custom profile dialing down all highlight, shadow and color settings to -1 or -2 you get a very flat profile in jpegs. You can also set the screen to 'Natural Live View' in the Setup>Screen Setting menu (switch it to ON). That way it will not display film simulations on screen (just monochrome and sepia when selected).

Note that when you select a film simulation (any) that information is also stored in the RAW file. Some RAW-convertors use that for display purposes when importing the RAW file. You can easily bypass that by selecting the required ICC profile and curve. In Capture One by default the RAW image will be displayed using the selected film simulation (camera specific ICC profile and curve on AUTO). When you want to see the pure RAW image in Capture One you should select LINEAR as a curve, You can default this in the import dialogue. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

your RAW image can be converted to anything ... but if you want a jpeg it has to do something (some film simulation as they call it). The default jpeg is FILM SIMULATION PROVIA/STANDARD. You can also make a 'custom' FILM SIMULATION or your own 'recipe' and use that ...

Edited by peter50R
added
Link to post
Share on other sites

Herco,

Thanks "When you want to see the pure RAW image in Capture One you should select LINEAR as a curve, You can default this in the import dialogue" - I was not aware of that! Thank you for a useful tip.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...