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Everything posted by Herco

  1. The Fuji App is a constant source of frustration. I've given up using it even though is was improved a while ago. The book that @Olaf W. recommended is the best chance of getting it to work.
  2. No, there is in fact an XF10 from Fuji. It's a compact camera: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/cameras/xf10/
  3. It's probably the built-in battery that needs replacement. Not the main one that you remove and charge, but the one built-in that powers the memory in the camera. Long periods of inactive storage with drained main batteries may affect the quality of this back-up battery. The retailer where you bought the camera should be able to replace it, or otherwise a camera repair shop.
  4. No worries, C1 will definitely support the M1 chip set. It'd be 'suicide' for them not to. Due to Rosetta 2 the current version of C1 already works great on M1 macbooks (so I've seen on someone else's brand new one). I personally wait for the 16 inch M1(X). Forums are usually the place where people complain, so I wouldn't read too much into that. I've had to use customer support from C1 two or three times and I have no complaints. Very quick and professional. Even on the bug I reported, I got a follow-up request from their product dept. I've never had that with Adobe LR in all these years
  5. DAM stands for Digital Asset Management and is indeed the Library/Catalogue function in LR and C1. LR has indeed some advantages here for users who seek very detailed filter and keyword features. However, C1 comes pretty close for most users. You can migrate your LR catalogues to C1 and it retains all keyword and album functions. For the very large catalogues and advanced filter options Photo Mechanic is a very good addition. When you work in projects (like most professionals do) C1 has another option which is called Sessions. I suggest to view the online C1 tutorial Catalogues vs. S
  6. As for laptop performance I only have experience with macOS. On my macbook C1 seems to be a bit faster than LR and it is certainly coded with more efficiency in mind. Most Adobe products are very memory intense and make less use of multicore processor capabilities on the macOS platform. I also have ON1 Photo Raw 2020 installed and however that doesn't work with a catalogue, it seems much slower and processor intensive than C1. I'd recommend you download C1 and start a trial subscription first. As for tutorials, C1 has an excellent support section with lots of good videos. Very practical a
  7. It's a very good deal actually. The X-Pro2 is my personal favourite Fuji camera. I've used the X-Pro3 for a couple of days but decided not to switch for a few reasons. First, there's no visible improvement in image quality. The new sensor/processor are mainly an improvement in continuous AF whereas I mostly use single AF for my personal work with the X-Pro2. Secondly, the OVF is a bit brighter and larger on the X-Pro3, but it lacks the dual magnification of the X-Pro2. Therefore, you can't actually use the OVF with lenses shorter than 23mm or longer than 50mm. The EVF of the X-Pro3 is bet
  8. Only if you frequently shoot in inclining weather or plan a trip into the Sahara desert, WR makes some sense. Usually with a little bit of care you can perfectly use a non-WR lens in rainy weather too. My most used lens is the 23/f1.4 (also non-WR) and it's been in downpours in India and didn't give up.
  9. Capture One indeed doesn't support the X100-range for tethered shooting. In Fuji X Acquire you need to switch to PC Shoot or USB mode in the connection menu of the camera, as you apparently do. Note that Fuji X Acquire doesn't support MacOS Big Sur yet. You can also try the wifi connection mode instead of the USB mode.
  10. Unless the WB is ‘overwritten’ by a WB set in the preset in LR, LR can use the stored WB in the RAW-conversion. It will be applied to the displayed image when importing, unless replaced by a WB set in a LR preset. To my knowledge LR behaves similar to Capture One in that aspect. To use the WB set by the camera, select WB As Shot in the import profile.
  11. The D7500 is quite a recent model and certainly one of the best APS-C DSLRs on the market. In terms of image quality for stills it can match any Fuji X-camera (given good Nikkor lenses). Next to the reduced battery life and the EVF (which is an ‘older’ 2.36 million dots model in the X-S10) you will probably notice a slower AF-C performance, as the D7500 is blazing fast esp. in very low light. Only when you plan to shoot video, the X-S10 would make a lot of sense. The IBIS is of course nice to have, but the VR in most Nikkor lenses is also quite good.
  12. There are indeed rumors about a new version of the GFX50. Both R as well as S. The R hasn’t been as successful as Fujifilm had hoped for, hence the early price reductions. Bear in mind that the GFX was intended to capture part of the full-frame market. After initial praise and good sales, the numbers dropped quickly. Depending on the market, the price of the R has been reduced in steps by $1500-$2000 since introduction. Professional photographers mostly prefer the S model with the ability to mount a tilting viewfinder. and a grip. Hence the prices of the S remained high for a longer period.
  13. Capturing these colors is difficult because our eyes are more susceptible to the longer waves of red light whereas a camera sensor is equally sensitive to all wave lengths within the visible array. Next to that a camera sensor cannot cope with the same dynamic range (dark-bright contrast) that our eyes can handle. Sunset colors are therefore often a bit washed-out or faded on regular shot images. First of all make sure you don’t overexpose the image. It’s easier to brighten the shadows than correct blown-out highlights. When you shoot jpeg and don’t want to adjust the image in post proces
  14. Correct. WB only affects the jpeg, but the setting is also stored in the metadata of the raw file. Software like Lightroom and Capture One use this setting as a starting point for their raw conversion (WB as shot). The WB is also used for the small thumbnail that is inside of every raw file for display purposes.
  15. I would be surprised if Fuji would launch a monochrome version of their GFX-line. Unlike Leica, Fuji doesn’t have their own facility to manufacture image sensors and to my knowledge there are no cropped medium format monochrome out on the market. Of course they could have something custom-made at one of the manufacturers, but that would be very expensive given the small market. APS-C sized monochrome sensors however are available (esp. for astrophotography), so a monochrome X-camera might be more likely. Of course you can always go to maxmax.com and have your GFX converted. That however only i
  16. Herco


    To my knowledge you can’t. I don’t use a GFX100, but do have a GFX50S. I guess from a connectivity point of view it is very similar. With Fujifilm cameras you need a host application on a computer to receive the tethered files. That is one of the things Fuji really need to improve for professional use. Many other brands have the ability to tether to an FTP-server (wired or even wireless). Nevertheless, tethered shooting to Capture One works perfectly and is for many photographers sufficient.
  17. Also bear in mind that C1 (but LR too) can be automated to a high degree. When importing, you apply the presets or styles you prefer. On top of that I have defined user styles that automatically apply the required sharpening and noise reduction for the type of camera. From there it is just 1-2 minutes work to PP an image. For personal work I shoot RAW+JPEG. The JPEGs are stored separately for archiving. I never edit these except for some cropping if I really want to use the JPEG for sharing in social media. I will quickly cull through the RAW files to separate the keepers. The rest I thro
  18. TIFF is indeed a more universal format that is supported by almost every package. PSD is a Adobe specific format and it maintains the layer-structure of the file. So you can go back and forth between LR and PS while maintaining all different layers you’ve added to the image.
  19. The Profoto A1X is a great flash. The A10 even better. We use a lot of Profoto here in the studio and couldn't be happier about the quality. However, unless it's your living depending on it, Profoto can be quite expensive. A nice alternative for the A1X is the Godox V1. It is a blatant copy of the A1X but at 30% of it's price. Only with very intense work you'll notice the difference (heat management, constant color temp and integration in a Profoto ecosystem). I guess nothing that an enthusiast would worry about.
  20. CaptureOne (C1) has the Fujifilm film simulations build-in into the software. So when developing the RAW and exporting to JPEG you can use these film simulations incl. all the other editing that C1 allows you to do. This gives you a much better result than using the out-of-camera JPEGs and edit them for exposure in C1, PS or other software. A JPEG is best to use as an end result. The quality of the C1 Fujifilm film simulations is at least as good as the in-camera film simulations as it was developed in close cooperation with Fujifilm. In my experience they're even a bit better as they offer mo
  21. Fully agree... Also note that CaptureOne cannot be compared to PhotoShop. PS is a ‘destructive’ pixel editor for image editing. C1 is a non-destructive raw developer. Though they share editing features the approach is very different. C1 is actually an alternative for Lightroom (LR). In case you need to ‘pixel-edit’ next to C1 you could also try Affinity Photo. AP is very akin to PS, but lower priced and you actually purchase the license rather than have a subscription like with PS.
  22. maxmax.com converts many Fujifilm cameras to monochrome. It's quite expensive, but probably not more than when Fujifilm would launch a monochrome themselves. Previously, Fujifilm managers stated that a monochrome is not to be expected any time. As a former Leica owner (those film days) every time I pick up a Leica I'm tempted again. The Q2 monochrome will probably not be an exception. It's not made for people looking for features or value-for-money (though it holds fantastic value in the second-hand market) and in that respect its hard to compare with other brands. It's just like cars: yo
  23. I cannot recommend CaptureOne enough for Fuji. The Express version lacks the extensive color editor and layer abilities but is more than enough for cropping, tilting and exposure correction. And best of all, it is free. Fuji's X RAW STUDIO works well, but should you ever upgrade your camera (e.g. to an X100V) you cannot rerun your X100F-files through X RAW STUDIO connected to e.g. an X100V anymore. It is limited to the same exact type of camera as you shoot the image with.
  24. The SmallRig I use for the X-H1 has a detachable L-part leaving only the base plate attached to the camera. It is still however about 10mm thick. I know the Sunwayfoto is much shallower (5-6mm) and also has a detachable L-part.
  25. Welcome to the forum Vacantskye, Apart from the Sensei cleaning kit, I've had first-hand experience with all these products. The SanDisk cards are solid performers and do well in combined stills and video usage. For only stills you don't need the 300MB/s version. The 170MB/s works just as good when you shoot compressed RAW. How good you'll experience the camera and lenses is greatly depending on what you plan to do and what your reference is/was. When your previous Nikon was a 3400 the X-T4 would overall be a step-up. When your reference was the D850 or so, you might be disappointed
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