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I recently went to Upper Antelope, and used the Rokinon 12mm f2 exclusively (you do NOT want to change lenses in that DUST BOWL!!) results i got were fantastic- the plus is that with the manual focus WIDE angle lens, I could zone focus, stop down to say f4, and know that my depth of field was going to cover. I also used auto bracketing of -1/+1 stops, so I got 3 exposures each time I pressed the shutter button. However, I *did* the "pro camera" tour, using a tripod, christ, some exposures were 10-15 seconds. And yes, regularly shot at ISO 1000-3200 with no problem. The mirrorless camera will let you get good shots at really slow shutter speeds hand held. ENJOY!!!!

Thanks for that. Just had a look at both the 13" and 15" in a store. Quite a small laptop, they really did shrink it down, so much so that I may even look at the 15" now depending on if it will fit the brixton (which I ended up ordering)

Add me to the list of victims of the 'Disappearing Eye Cup' occurrence. I have no idea where it went and I am discouraged with what I am reading here. I thought I could buy a little piece for 15 bucks or so not lose my camera for a few weeks (I am in Chicago). May be faster to go through my insurance at this point. :/

I've had my 56mm for about a month now, and it's really an amazing lens. However, since I hardly use manual focus, I was using the ring for maybe the second time today and I noticed a plasticky rubbing sound as I turned the ring. It's quiet, and definitely has a plastic-on-plastic sound. It doesn't seem consistent, but happens for about a second or so with every full turn of the ring. Is this normal/acceptable, or should I be thinking about exchanging the lens while it's still fairly new? I'm hesitant to return this one because the IQ is so good, and the manual focus ring doesn't really affect how I shoot. But if this is a sign of a build issue that could lead to more problems down the road, I'd like to get it resolved ASAP as I have a few big jobs coming up in the next few months. edit: I just checked and Henry's (where I bought it) only has a 15 day in-store return policy, so if this is an issue, it'll have to go back to Fuji. I pulled out my 35mm for comparison and it definitely makes a plasticky rubbing sound most of the time when you turn the ring. The 56mm sounds like that, only it doesn't happen very often. My guess is that it's just a mechanical tolerance thing, and the extra smooth ring just makes it seem more out of place than on the 35mm.

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It’s very well possible that the lens were “ normal”. There is no shame in not knowing this for anyone and it is not something that you will encounter very often but the lens seems to rattle inside when not engaged on a switched on camera and that is a normal feature for this lens. There are several people on line who have spoken about this, they have all observed a “ clunk” while the lens is not on the camera and turned on Good luck with your next copy but chances are that it will clunk like all others http://findingrange.com/2015/09/01/fuji-xf-90mm-f2-lm-wr-lens-review/ https://olafphotoblog.com/2015/07/09/fujinon-xf-90mm-f2-first-take-and-taken-aback/ http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3878356 http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57242380 http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1375529/6

the articulated screen is of debatable utility ( I have one camera with, X-T1, and one without , X-E2, and I use it very little and when I don’t use the X-T1 I never miss it) the size and weight difference are minimal but the EVF is of incredible utility. If someone is on a budget, the use of cheap adapted lenses is the single most important factor to save money, but focussing without the EVF only on a, tillable or not, OVF is most certainly a serious hurdle or rather it would be for me. The feel of the X-E1 is almost the same one as a pro camera which the X-E2 is. I have used the X-M1 when my first X ( X-E1) camera was away for 8 weeks and I didn’t like it at all. Unless the tilt screen is paramount I would never go for that camera if cost is, as it is, so similar to the one of the X-E1 to me you get a better, uncompromising, camera. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Fujifilm+X-E1&_sop=15 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Fujifilm+X-E1&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XFujifilm+X-M1.TRS0&_nkw=Fujifilm+X-M1&_sacat=0

With respect for everyone's choices The Samyang is a lens which weighs 730gr. and is almost 15 cm long. It has a very long focussing action and of course it is manual in every aspect. It also costs $549 Yes, you have the magic 1:1 which is the only “ advantage” over other lenses. Many classic macro lenses out there at a fraction of the price with or without 1:1. The 60mm weighs 215 gr ( I have talked before about how not to use the original lens hood) and is 8 cm long. Due to the bad press give to it by many it can be bought at $300 or maybe even less. If you equip it with a close up lens ( with one or more lens elements) or a tube you get to 1:1. I don’t find more difficult to use this lens manually than other macro lenses and even with his slow autofocus it is a lot quicker than me with manual focus in most situations.

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X-M1 lens: XC 50-230mm 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

I love that based on a couple of pictures a bunch of you decided it was going to be 10-15% bigger, because obviously as photographers the idea that whatever lens that took the picture might have distorted perspective never should have occurred to you I mean people just put coins or batteries into pictures to show scale for no reason

20. 21. 22. f/22 that starbust is the same 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. I had no problem at 1/8sec at all. The OIS works well for me. highly recommended.

10. handheld at 1/8 sec，ISO400 is now usable indoor 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

What OvF ? There is no OvF on the X-T1/10 camera. Are you prehaps referring to the EvF ? And if so, maybe you can try reading the camera manual page 22 ? Not the nicest of answer I know, but you spend a good sum of money for the camera, you might want to learn a bit about it, no ?

my Jill.E Jack large messenger should qualify http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/651200-REG/Jill_E_Designs_144744_Jack_Messenger_Camera_Bag.html at less than $200 is a great deal. 1255374251000_651200.jpg PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Fits Two SLR Camera, 3-4 Lens Kit Fits 15" Laptop Computer Columbian Leather Exterior and Interior Pockets Carry Handles Removable Shoulder Strap with Pad

Hi, I recently acquired the new X-Pro 2, after more than 15 years working with Canon. My experience so far has been great in every level, but there's one issue that I think about every time I change lenses: if the camera has a mechanical shutter, why doesn't it close when you take the lenses off? It seems more than logical to me not to have the sensor there, just waiting to be touched... Is there a way to make this happen in the camera menu or by any other process? Thanks in advance. Looking forward to be a part of this community. José Carlos Marques - www.josecarlosmarques.com

How good is the EVF in the X-T1 compared to X-Pro1? I currently own an old X-Pro1 and intend to buy the X-Pro2, but i think I'll enjoy the use of a bigger 0.77x EVF better, than the ERF+OVF. I'm using a set of six Minolta MD (W.)Rokkor lenses: 20/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/1.7, 50/1.2. I use them with a Zhongyi Lens Turbo MD - Fuji X ver.II adapter which makes them 1.1x crop and 1 stop faster: 22/2, 30/2.8, 38/2, 50/1.4, 55/1.2, 55/0.9. I now can't use fast apertures at daylight, outside as the max shutter speed of 1/4000 on the X-Pro1 is just not fast enough, and I don't intend to use any nd filters, as I hate to change filters all the time. ​Would all those benefits using the newer technology of the X-T1, talking about focusing aids also, be enough of a benefit to sell my X-Pro1 and forget the rangefinder style shooting? I actually did not get the experience I wanted for manually focusing - white peaking only, bad auto WB.

it means, that the X-Pro2 (like most other modern cameras) is able to focus, where 99.9% of buyers won't use it. Near complete darkness. EV0 is defined as LV0 at ISO100. and LV0 is 1 second exposure with an f/1.0 lens. So EV0 (rounded from 0.5 in the X100T) means you can shot with f/2.0, 4 second exposure and ISO200. Not really real world scenario I guess To give you an better example. Let's say you get a good exposed images with the X100T with the following values: f/2.0, 1/15s (guess, your handholding is very stable ) and ISO6400. The camera focuses. The LV of the subject is somewhere around 1EV. Now you head somewhere it's 3LV darker: you either have to increase the shutter speed (guess a tripod is needed for 1/2s) or increase the ISO. Both cases, the camera won't focus anymore. The X-Pro2 on the other hand will focus. Staying at f/2.0 and 1/15s you could just increase the ISO to 51200. But there is another advantage. Mount an f/1.4 lens and you can either go to 1/30s or decrease the ISO. (f/1.4, 1/15s ISO 25600) But then again: f/1.4, 1/15s and ISO25600 isn't an every day scenario

Hi, Bought an X-Pro 2 on launch day and for the most part am satisfied. I've had some issues with the buffer however. Most reviews I've read state that they are able to get around 27 uncompressed raw frames +JPEGs or 33 compressed raw+JPEG frames into the buffer. I have two UHS II cards, a previous generation 16GB Toshiba EXCERIA PRO (rated for 240MB/s write) which I've had since release, and a Transcend Ultimate 32GB UHS II (rated for 180MB/s write). With the Toshiba I can get around 29 shots of compressed raw, while the Transcend is only giving me around 25. With the transcend I actually seem to get more shots with uncompressed raw. One thing I learned while playing around right after I got the camera is that the amount of shots you can fit in the buffer with compressed raw appears to be limited by processing speed, as options such as face/eye tracking slow it down a lot (originally I thought my camera was defective as I was only getting 20-22 shots in the buffer). The numbers above however seem to be as good as I can get it however. Has anyone else had this experience, and are there any other options to be turned off or settings to be changed for maximum buffer writes?

I tried both wide- and tele- converters on 18-55 and results were so poor so I very quickly stopped even to think about that option. I tried x0.3, x0.79 and x1.54 converters from Raynox. They are expensive and quality products by itself, but just don't suitable for Fuji 18-55 lens despite of thread size. I believe things would be even worse with cheap nonames. Being unlucky with that Raynoxes, I didn't want to try it's macro lense. But I have Marumi DHG Achromat 330 (+3 diopters) with 58mm size, don't remember the price, sure something below 100$. It works suprisingly good with Fuji 18-55 at long end. Good sharpness, distortions from low to neglible, minimal distance is about 15-20cm (never measured yet), AF works as should, no vignetting. Overall, the results from this Fuji+Marumi combo are really comparable with what you can get from XF60macro, with a bit less magnification (note there is +5 diopters version). That makes a nice lightweight travel option for occasional macros when absolute quality is not the purpose.

Actually, it does not intrigue me at all... For a zoom, I would rather have the Fuji 50-140 2.8 with OIS than the Sigma 50-100 1.8 - I can shoot the 50-140 @ 1/30 and even 1/15 which makes it much better handheld in low light than the Sigma. The 50-140 OIS is remarkable, and it has more reach. The Sigma is a pretty narrow zoom range. With the Fuji 56 and 90 primes on 2 bodies I've basically equaled the zoom range and each feels so much lighter and more agile and comfortable to hold. The D500 + the Sigma 50-100 is over 5 Lbs. The Fuji X-T1 + the 90 is under 2 Lbs. That is a huge difference in handling. I could comfortably shoot the X-T1 + 90 one handed or on the run all day. And of course I'm simply expressing my interests and preferences and you are free to have your own :-)

The OIS in this lens is remarkably good. I shot 5-6 images handheld at night at 140 @ 1/15 and they are sharp. I'm not used to the whirring sound it makes yet. Nor the little clunk turning on and off. Noisiest lens I've had and accentuated by a very quiet night here... but the performance is very impressive...

If we are talking about the same aperture i'd say very likely. Here you are well known artical covering the subject - http://www.prophotonut.com/2015/01/05/fuji-x-series-portrait-lenses-compared-inc-56-apd-50-140-zoom/

Tonight i got the issue about 15 times on 200 pictures. Horrible, because i was making Brenizers style photos... But when i dont shoot repetitly fast, it was ok. Disapointing.

I was having the same issue and was kind of bummed by the selection out there for mirrorless backpack/sling bags. I've been using think tank bags for years for my DSLR's and was excited to potentially get the Perception Pro when I got my XT1 but then ran into the same issue with the battery grip and it not fitting in the main camera body "pouch" deal. So I continued to search and search. On black Friday, I came across InCase, the makers of bags mainly for Apple products. I checked out their bags for cameras and came across their DSLR backpack. Check out reviews on YouTube etc. Decided to just buy it because along with the XT1 and grip, I have 3 lenses and x100s and other extra stuff and it was 50% off on BF. A couple of things I like about it, it has top access for ease of pulling out the camera when you need it quick (yes battery grip and all). I love how it can fit up a 15 MBP, plus an iPad. For me I use a 13 MBP plus a small Wacom pro tablet (fits in the iPad slot) so it's perfect for when on the go. I like it's sleek design and the ability to store my lenses and bodies with no problem. I've had it for about a week now and I love it so far. https://www.incase.com/shop/bags/incase-dslr-pro-pack/black/ I know your last line said cross body/sling, but I just thought I would share.