Burb

You need at least firmware v3.00 for this option. I think that is also the reason that its not in the manual but only described in the Firmware Update History. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/xt1/history.html 11.Q. Menu customization To make the Q Menu (used for quick access of frequently-used items) even more efficient, the update will allow its items and layout to be changed to the user's preference. [How to set] 1. Select the "EDIT / SAVE QUICK MENU" in the setup menu (or pressing Q button for a while). 2. Highlight the item you wish to change and press the MENU / OK button. 3. You will be given choices of items to assign to the selected position in the quick menu. *Select the "NONE" to assign no item to the selected position.

I'm assuming that you mean by "downloaded specific drivers from the Mac site..." you have installed the latest Camera RAW updates from the App Store? If not, you need at least Digital Camera RAW compatibility update 6.05 for X-T10 support on Yosemite! https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203088

If you expect a picture right out the camera that is looking amazing you should give the JPG's a try... RAW files are e.g. not that colorful and not that sharp right from the camera therefore they called RAW. It's up to you to develop them to the image you like. By selecting one of the camera profiles in Lightroom you basically do the same as the camera will do while rendering a JPG.

Don't know I you are aware of this:You can zoom in up to two levels with the focus assist. In focus assist mode, turn the back dial for another zoom level! Despite the fact that you can not move the viewpoint live when in focus assist mode, you can choose where to zoom on forehand by setting the focus point on a particular spot.

You mean like use them for different options like selecting e.g. WB or Film simulations settings?

Since there was already a topic for landscape and seascape but not for cityscapes in particularly. I thought let's create one... To start off with Rotterdam by Night. X-T1 | ISO 200 | 20 sec | Samyang 12mm@f8 I'm still really impressed by the quality of this little lens! Unfortunately the file size limitation of the attached images is really not showing all the good stuff. But I invite you to my 500px profile for the best experience!

December 2016!

Since your on a mac you have to make sure to have the latest "Digital Camera RAW Compatibility Update" installed. That will bring you the possibility of viewing the RAW files with preview on your Mac! So for what I'm seeing is that you'll need at least OSX Mountain Lion with compatibility update 5.04. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203088 https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201071 https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201070

Nice light rays during sunrise! X-T1, 12mm @ISO200, f8, 1/320.

Look at the difference between the photo of the TS and the image of the X-Pro1 in the link: http://kenrockwell.com/fuji/x-pro1/D3S_8102-back-1200.jpg IMHO definitely a protector!

They called hot pixels, occurring during long exposures or high iso values. Those pixels are more sensitive by light than the others. I had this problem on my X-T1 within two months after purchasing. Went back to the store and they send the camera to Fuji service where they remapped the sensor and I have no problem up to now!

To me it's look like a screen protector too, I'm using Larmor protectors, they are made of very thin glass. On this site you'll see some pictures of the static attraction of the glass which looks almost the same as on you camera. http://www.larmor-usa.com But before pulling anything of, go to a camerashop and compare yours with an other one. Or maybe someone here kan take the same picture of their X-Pro1?

I've made a couple of shots of my very photogenic wall at apertures of 2/8 and 22. At f2 you'll have the softes corners. Maybe, with some experimenting, it's possible to remove the front slot and get the polarizer closer to the lens but for now I deal with it. I do not own any other polarizer to test in between the lens and Seven5 filter holder.

Yup! No vignetting with ND grads and Big Stopper in both slots. Just take care how far you put the Big Stopper in the holder because of the "light barrier". The polarizer is definitely visible in the corners at all apertures!

Edit 1 Maybe a good idea to collect pro's and con's for both lenses although don't think that there are many people really owning or had both lenses? Edit 2 You're right, the information on the site is rather suggestive: "Aperture closed to circle shape 6 aperture blades create almost a full circle when closed and express ray beautifully as starlight." It's definitely more of a hexagon shape than a circle. I did a bit of a test to see if the shape changes by the aperture setting but as far as I could see it didn't change to a more rounded shape. A hexagon is "almost" a full circle....

I agree with you on the starburst thing. It was the only point I was worried about. But I found some images (on flicker I guess) which convinced me buying this lens. The six rays can (I.M.H.O.) give a really clean looking starburst from the sun or from lampposts. See one of my first pictures I shoot with this lens. If I desperately need more rays then I can always use my 18-135mm.

There are plenty of test out on the web, like this one: http://petapixel.com/2014/06/04/review-rokinon-12mm-f2-0-great-option-astrophotogs-budget/ I never read an argument that would let me consider the Zeiss. Both lenses are competing each other in terms of image quality. But definitely not in terms of pricing. More expensive is not always better and the Zeiss is definitely not performing twice as much better then the Samyang. And besides that I prefer red accents more then the blue ones on the Zeiss...

I know its personal taste but I find the 10-24 image a bit dull and lacking that tiny bit of contrast for a nice sense of depth. But color is easy to adjust in post processing. An other thing I found out lately with this lens is that in some light circumstances and in combination with a Lee Seven5 Soft Grad. ND filter the Samyang logo is too shiny so it's reflecting on the filter and will be visible in the picture! Just to let you know! Maybe if its going to happend that much I will put sticky tape on top of it...

I bought a Samyang 12mm for a week or two ago. A really nice lens, and i'm very happy with it! It performs really great when shooting landscapes, for me the only purpose for this lens.

Thanks for your comments, I've decided to go for the Samyang 12 mm (using it for 2 week now) It's really an amazing lens!! It's so much fun and quality for less than half the price of te Fuji 14mm!

Am I right to say that Fuji is using a "save" CoC (probably the mentioned 0.005mm) because everything then will always be sharp at that hyperlocal distance? But if you push it a bit by using the values from certain DOF calculators at a CoC of 0.02mm you will be able to gain a bit extra sharpness in the near distance? With my Samyang 12mm I focussed at 1 meters@f8 and get a sharp images from very close (±0.5m) to the far distance. If I had used a CoC value of 0.005mm I have to focus around 3.6 meters and the closed near distance will be around 2 meters! So I'm "loosing" almost 1.5 meters in nearby sharpness.

X-T1 18-135mm @F22/18mm/1/13s/ISO200

Hi, Does somebody know if Fuji has released lenses by surprise meaning that they where not on the roadmap before? I'm considering a wider angle lens, maybe the 14mm Fujinon or the Samyang/Tamron 12mm. The 14mm is already there for a couple of years but don't really have the angle of view that I'm looking for. The Samyang will be great but with limitations and is a bit of a "Spartan" in handling. The Fujinon 10-24 is no option because it will give to much trouble with the Lee Seven5 system. I'm really looking forward to a Fujinon 10 or 12 mm prime. So maybe I'll better stop dreaming and get the Samyang 12mm.

I use also the PD Slide with my x-T1, works great!

The 18-135mm is a great versatile lens! Wide for landscapes at 18mm and you will be able to do some nice macro shots at 135mm too! I'm not a pro but I found that this lens has a great bokeh! And you'll have to carry just one lens that covers a great range! http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/56-landscapes-with-fuji-x/?p=3485 http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/64-fuji-flowers/?p=456 According to the tech specs the 16-55mm is 655g, that's heavier than the 18-135mm with a weight of 490g!