Burb

Hi! Today I was playing around with my X-T1 with 18-135mm lens trying out some long exposure things in combination with the Lee Seven5 Big Stopper and Polarizer. I found it pretty annoying that at a focal length of 18mm the Lee system always giving me a bit of vignetting (http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/308-filter-sets-for-x-lenses/?p=6868). But by knowing this limitation I always zoomed in a bit towards 23 mm when using polarizer or Big Stopper. But today I found out something interesting! The front end of the XF18-13mm lens (the part or system where you can click your lens hood into) is almost exactly the same size and shape as the shape of the Lee adapter ring. So it turns out that the Lee filter holder will attach easily on the lens itself, although you cannot turn the holder completely around because of the fact that on the lens theres is only a bulkier part at the left and right side of the lens. But aslong as you don't want to rotated the holder completely around this is no issue! The holder connects firm enough but I think it is possible to get it off with a bit of force! So I'm not responsible for any damage to your gear when trying this out! (http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/308-filter-sets-for-x-lenses/?p=5247) Oké, now where over the technical part we continue the really cool part... Without the adapter ring the holder including polarizer is approximately 3mm closer to the lens and at 18mm it not showing any vignetting anymore!! I don't know if this will work for every Fujinon lens with a filter diameter of 67mm, because I only own the XF18-135 mm. See the attached pictures (don't judge the quality, I was just playing around)

Why do you think it won't work... Of course it does work, because it also a X-mount lens. The only thing you can discuss is the handling factor and how balanced the camera/lens combo will be.

I do know that the behavior of the macro function is changed and that it is now automatically selected by the camera. Does anyone know if the display is still showing an icon for macro mode when the camera is automatically going into that mode? I didn't noticed the icon anymore while testing. I don't know if it matters but I don't own a real macro lens. (18-135mm zoom).

I've noticed that the Lee Seven5 Polarizer gives a little vignettin when used together with the 18-135mm zoom lens at 18mm. When zooming in just a little bit towards 23mm it's gone. The 18-135 lens has a 67mm filter diameter. Maybe in future I wanted buy a wider lens so I was wondering which lens will not be affected by vignettin, the 10-24 mm zoom with a filter diameter of 72mm or the 14mm with a filter diameter of 58mm. My guess is that the 10-24 will give a lot vignettin in at least the ultra wide focal lengths due to the wider diameter. And that the 14m maybe don't give any vignettin at all? I'm I correct?

I'm using the Lee Seven5 system. I just watched the video but I don't think that the Seven5 holder is made out of plastic. As far I can see it it's made of aluminum. It looks almost impossible to remove the holder from the adapter without using brute force so I'm not worried that the holder will accidentally come loose.

Oké thanks for all the answers so far! I think I will try some test shots with the digital distance marker at infinity to see witch setting will give the best results.

The 18-135 lens don't have these markers so I'm stuck with the digital distance indicator.

Hi! Recently I was trying to get an nice sharp overall image while manual focusing at the hyperfocal distance. I have the 18-135 mm lens, the pictures I had taken where all at a focal length of 18mm. The apertures I tried where F16, F11 and F8 so the hyper focal distance should be (according to DOF Master) respectively 1.03, 1,45 and 2,04 meters. The results where pretty sharp!! So it seems to be working! But the distance indicator on the X-T1 is not that accurate (white indicator, not the blue zone) therefore it is almost impossible to set the distance indicator at exactly 1,45 meter as example. I was wondering if you guy's are using these values as well or using different values, resulting in a better sharpness? (I'm aware of the discussions about the representation of the blue DOF zone towards infinity) Greetz, Burb

Nice sunset! X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@18mm, F14, 1,5 sec ISO 200

Just an other one... X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@40mm, F5,6, 1/2500, ISO 200

Welcome all! First post, I thought let's do a flower... X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@123mm, F8, 1/200, ISO 200