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Burb

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Everything posted by Burb

  1. The "big" 4.0 firmware was already released in 2015! Since then minor updates where released, so it's still possible! Although I don't really missing something it's still nice to dream...
  2. As far as I know it's not possible to setup the dial for aperture when the lens has a ring for it!
  3. I'm using the 18-135 quit a lot. It's just having the most practical lens always on the system. During hikes, bicycle trips etc. you can cover almost everything! Wide at 18mm till superzoom and great macro shots at 135mm! If I have enough space or going specific for landscape images I take the Samyang 12mm with me. Which is noticeable sharper compared to the 18-135mm.
  4. No IMHO there is no problem, in Lightroom my Fuji Raw files always looks a bit dull too. It's up to me to create the look that I like. If you expect to get that result straight out of camera you should use the jpeg. But I don't have experience with Canon Raw and I don't know if they are acting in differently.
  5. Film simulations are only applied when rendering a jpeg in camera. RAW files are not affected by any of the chosen film simulation modes.
  6. Germany, Biggesee area with X-T1 and Samyang 12 mm.
  7. If it's in yellow something is blocking the high ISO value. If you set aperture and shutter speed to fixed values. Do you have 51200? Or maybe your camera is setup for only RAW shooting? I'm not shure but maybe the camera is automatically changing to jpeg if those high ISO's are selected!?
  8. It's in the blue setup menu 2. ISO dial setting. There you can change the settings for H1 and H2. Don't you have a manual...
  9. I've bought my black x-t1 for about a year ago. In the store I did test both editions on 4-button behavior because I was aware of this issue. But I didn't noticed any difference, so I choose the black one... And till know I didn't experience any odd behavior on the buttons, they work just as expected!
  10. If there are a lot of spikes at the left part, or completely at the left edge, you image is to dark (or contains a lot of dark parts) and is possibly underexposed. The opposite for the right part of the histogram. A lot of light parts, overexposed. A nice and evenly shaped hill in the middle of the histogram should be a correct exposed picture. Try google...
  11. Sunrise in the Netherlands. Fuji XT-1, Samyang 12mm/f2, Lee Seven5 Soft ND Grad 6.
  12. It's actually more a bit of both. When a wifi connection is made with e.g. a smartphone. Depending on the settings, the location data (GPS info) of the smart phone will be used to "geotag" the images on the camera. The Iglo which is actually a globe with a pin is showing the geotag status.
  13. Yes you can! Details are here: http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/x/fujifilm_x_t1/features/page_02.html
  14. It's in the blue setup menu > Connection settings > Wireless settings > Resize image for smartphone > Should be set to "off". Although (not sure) I think you need also the latest firmware to be able to do this!
  15. Use a fast memory card and the delay will be virtually nothing.
  16. As far as I know your statement is not correct and the so called Fuji process don't need to be set for better rendering! As mentioned by idwilson it's just a color profile simulating the Fuji film simulation. In other words it can help you by color correcting the RAF files like the in camera JPEG rendering would do. But it's not a mandatory action to get better or sharper or whatever results.
  17. That could be possible! I'm still on 4.20! The custom display settings where changed and blur warning was added in 4.20 and therefore again removed in 4.21 I guess. (Can't find the documentation)
  18. IMHO there is no added value by putting the ISO selection in the q menu when you have a nice wheel to select it. And given the fact that the wheel is a "hardware" knob it's odd and also misleading to select an ISO value via the menu (e.g. 400) while the wheel is at 1600.
  19. Your are using a shutter speed to slow, you don't search good enough or... you are using the wrong display settings... You can only change the items for the Custom Display (DISP/BACK Button). So go to the blue setup menu 1. Menu/OK > Setup Menu 1 > Screen Set-up > Disp. Custom Setting > de-select "Blur warning" and the symbol should be gone when using the Custom Display option.
  20. I did a short walk to test my new XF35 f2 WR. So far I really like the lens, field of view and bokeh behavior! X-T1, XF35, f2.0, 1/60, ISO400
  21. I think it was me mentioning the same behavior with a Samyang 12mm and Lee Seven5 0.6 soft ND Grad. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/169-samyang-12mm-f20-ncs-cs-x-mount/?p=12256 I've fixed it also with some black tape. I don't think there is another solution (except painting witch I don't like).
  22. I'm on a Mac too, currently OSX 10.11.1 with Safari 9.0.1 and I get one download! Upgrading my X-T1 today, let's see what it brings us!
  23. Because your in AF-C mode?
  24. Did you try to format the card with the camera first?
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