mawz

The X-T30 doesn't have a fast enough card slot to record 4K60 at a reasonable bitrate, thus the limitation. You really need UHS-II V60 for 4K60 and the X-T30 is limited to UHS-1 V30

If you're looking for settings banks/user settings a la Nikon/Canon/Sony, then the answer is no, there's no way to save settings like that which is usable in the field.

Buggy, gimmicky crap. And I'm being polite. Their business model is to release new paid options rather than patch their current release, and hope suckers pony up for the new gimmicks (and old bugs) If you want free, Capture One Express for Fuji is FAR superior, so are Fuji's two free options.

No, the tethered function is limited to the single-digit X-T's and the X-Pro2/3 None of the consumer bodies have Tethered support (X-Tx0, X-Tx00, X-Ex, X-M or X-A)

The film simulation is most certainly reversible when shooting RAW. I can't comment on SilkyPIX, as I would never even bother with that. Most likely SilkyPIX does allow you to change things, it's just buried in that awful UI. I'd suggest trying Capture One Express for Fuji, it's free and supports film simulations on the X-T2, and will also let you change the film simulation at will (and turn them off and use the default C1 colour profiles as well).

The AE modes will show exposure preview all the time. The reason why there is a setting for exposure preview in manual mode is that when shooting flash or studio light you may select settings that give a correct exposure when the lights fire, but will be far too dark otherwise. This setting allows you to control that behaviour. This isn't an issue in the AE modes as they will not use the problematic settings which break exposure preview.

The webcam driver is not seeing the body. Make sure you are using a data cable. Charge-only USB-C cables will cause this. Lots of USB-A to USB-C cables in particular are data only. if you don't get a camera detection by Windows when you plug in the cable and turn on the camera, it's probably the cable.

Yes, it will loosen over time. There is a small spring under each lobe of the bayonet which holds things tight, that spring will weaken and smooth out with usage.

You've shifted the aperture past minimum and pushed it into Auto mode. This can be controlled by settings, specifically the Aperture Setting option in the Button/Dial setting menu in the wrench page, which you most likely have set to A+M and need to set to M

Most likely you've simply run into the fact that very few zoom lenses are parfocal. In other words, when you zoom, the focus point shifts naturally and must be compensated for by the AF system or the user.

You definitely need data transfer. Also given that the Ronin cable is only really USB-C at the straight end, the hub needs to be plugged in there.

Also any USB-C hub and a USB-C audio adapter should work

Two possibilities. 1. Charge-only cable. Not all USB cables are data capable and USB A to C cables are in particular bad for this. This is a continuing frustration. Try a different USB cable. 2. Wrong USB mode on the X-T3. It needs to be on of the the tethering modes.

It's a driver essentially. No app to run. Open up your conferencing app and see if the Fuji Webcam shows up as an option.

The Laowa 15mm f4 is kind of a bucket of everything lens. Laowa specializes in producing lenses with unusual close-focus properties (their regular macro lenses all go to 2:1 magnification for example). I have no idea why they added the shift feature, as it's APS-C only, but they did and it's useful. Macro focusing on a UWA allows for some truly unusual compositions and is an absolute ton of fun if you can live with a MFD that is less than 1cm from the front element. You certainly could use the Laowa 12mm in EF mount and an EF mount shift adapter, that would actually be a better choice than the 15 as a replacement for the 17 TS-E (I mention the 15 solely because I own it and have experience with it, I bought it for my FF Nikon DSLR). You can't stack adapters to do this with your Fuji lenses though. They don't have enough image circle to make a shift adapter worthwhile anyways, you really need a lens with FF coverage to make this viable (no EF-S lenses for example, only EF)

Those are the cards that Fuji says will work, not the only ones that will. Any card that is compatible with the SD card spec should work, but buying from that list means you're buying known-good cards.

You get more shift range, not less, as shift is controlled by the difference between the illumination circle and the sensor size, and that ratio grows when using a shift lens intended for FF on APS-C. That said, I'd honestly suggest pairing a shift adapter or T/S adapter and a FF UWA over going to a lens as insanely expensive as the 17 TS-E if you aren't going to get the benefit of the full wideness of the lens. I've got the Laowa 15mm f4 Macro, which includes native shift in 1 axis, and it does pretty well. As it's a FF UWA with shift available only on APS-C, you are limited to ~7mm of shift, but it's $500 and can be used with a 3rd party shift adapter to get other shift directions (it's a DSLR lens in F, EF or K mount)

Different USB chipsets with different driver options. most likely. It's the OS, not the cameras, that's your issue.

What cards? The X-T3 needs a high quality and fast card for video. You want a quality UHS-II card like a Sony Tough or Sandisk Extreme Pro 300MB/s The first thing to do with a problem card is a thorough reformat with the SD Card Formatting tool from the SD Association https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/ The second thing is to try a different card. As to CFExpress, gimme a break. CFE/XQD cards are not more reliable than top-end SD (in fact the only difference is the interface electronics). The card failures with SD are linked largely to cheaper cards and ubiquitous fakes sold at a discount. Amazon is rife with fakes, hence the bad reviews. DON"T buy expensive cards on Amazon, buy directly from the manufacturer or via a specialty retailer like B&H. You pay more, but you actually get what you paid for. Amazon is however good for buying cheaper UHS-1 cards, simply because even the fakes there are usually decent and they're so cheap that who cares if it dies. Given there's exactly two cameras today that can actually deliver better than UHS-II write performance (1DXIII and D6), there's zero need to move to a new card format that currently provides no gains. Camera makers need to deliver better performance from UHS-II than they are, as current UHS-II camera rarely exceed 60% of what a good UHS-II reader can deliver in write performance on a top-end UHS-II card. We should be seeing 250MB/s+, not the current 150-180MB/s most UHS-II cameras actually do. Coincidentally, guess what performance most CFExpress or XQD cameras deliver? 250-280MB/s, which is top-level UHS-II performance, not superior.

I tend to pay more attention to the working photographer types like KentuckyMan30 or Andy Mumford than the 'Influencers' like Theora Apotheosis, or the Northrups (neither of which have produced much youtube content of value in the last couple years IMHO, they're clickbait through & through). I will say that Andy could mumble less (great channel, lousy audio because he doesn't enunciate well) Dustin Abbot and Christopher Frost are the only really gear-focused channels I pay much attention to, as both do a good job of communicating real world performance of gear and understand the value of cost to the user.

What makes you think the Canon's set any new standards? The R6's basic performance is known, as it is basically a 1DXIII in a smaller body, and the 1DXIII set no new standards in DPAF performance, lagging the A9 twins which are the standard for mirrorless AF performance.

X-T4, hands down. Best AF and the LCD articulation downgrade is less of an issue for sports than for landscape.

Aside from IBIS and the higher-spec EVF, the X-T2 is a lot more camera than the Z5. The X-T4 compares well against the higher-end Z6 in all regards except pure sensor performance (and that's solely a function of sensor size) The Z5 is a basic stripper FF body built around the frame of a Z6. Older FSI sensor from the A7II (with reduced AF performance thanks to a slower readout, to what extent isn't yet known), 4.5fps, EXPENSIVE lenses (price those great but costly f1.8S lenses, you can get Fuji's faster XF lenses for the same money and frankly it's only the 35, 50 & 85 that are something special, the newer 20 & 24 are actually marginally worse than their G predecessors), no proper vertical grip, single-axis tilt touchscreen. You can get a full set of 4 fujicrons for less than the cost of 3 f1.8 S lenses (the 50 is not much more than a Fujicron, but the others are significantly more expensive) The flip side is the Z5 battery is pretty good (although Nikon continues to get poor life per mAh from their large EN-EL15 batteries) and you get access to the brilliant Nikkor PF lenses via the FTZ. I'm a mixed Nikon/Fuji shooter (D750, D300, X-T2, X-T1, X-E2) and while the Z5 is on my radar, it's purely as an eventual replacement for my D750, as my X-T2 is already more camera in a smaller package. The Z5 is priced directly against the X-T3 and unless you are a long lens guy (where the FTZ+ Nikkor F telephotos give you more options) or absolutely need that extra bit of DR and high ISO inherent to FF, the X-T3 curbstomps the Z5 in performance.

The X-T2 does, which I tripped over recently.

Fuji and Canon rate ISO differently. I've generally found the 16MP Fuji bodies to be about 1 1/3 stops lower in ISO at a given rating than a comparable Canon or Nikon. (ie ISO 400 on the 16MP Fuji gives about the same exposure as ISO 160 on a Canon or Nikon) That's pretty much exactly the difference you are seeing. I also find that the 16MP Fuji's tend towards 1/3 stop to 2/3rds stop more exposure on the same scene than a Canon or Nikon. The caveat here is that the ISO standard for digital exposure settings is not very specific, so both Fuji and Canon/Nikon are compliant, they just interpret ISO differently. Metering is purely a 'what the manufacturer thinks is right' setting. Honestly I think Fuji's exposure is generally better for pure JPEG use, but I tend to leave my 16MP Fuji's set to -2/3rds exposure compensation to get what I want in the RAWs.