mawz

Fujica mount has a shorter register than F mount and thus you would lose infinity focus with your lens. Additionally the aperture ring mechanism will not work unless the Fujica aperture mechanism is located in the same relative location as the Nikon one, as it's intended to actuate the aperture lever on Nikon G lenses.

Look into the Fringer EF adapter, I'm heaving very good things about it and the long zoom options in EF mount. I think everyone agrees that Fuji needs to spend some serious time on telephotos, they have a single lens past 230mm and only one other one known to be in the pipeline (the 70-300). They need a couple tele primes (300/4, something ~500mm) and that 200-600 you mention.

Get an Arca-swiss compatible head and go to a proper fitted plate or L-bracket. Gitzo does make some Arca-Swiss compatible heads, or you can go to a better quality head like an RRS or Acratech for similar cost. Nobody designs for those old plate systems anymore and small cameras have always had issues with most plates, one reason why Fuji sold Acra-Swiss compatible grip/plates for their kit from day 1 of the system.

As far as I'm aware, no. Would be a real nice addition.

I was only covering the actually available USB-C cables. Nobody is making USB 1.0 USB-C cables, thus I didn't cover them. Unfortunately some companies are making USB 2.0-only USB-C cables (really they're USB 3.1 gen1 cables restricted to USB 2.0 speeds, as each USB spec up through 3.2 includes all the older specs as sub-specs). UBS-C cables are well labelled as such. Note there are 4 types of USB-B connectors (regular, limited to USB 2.0 speeds, seen only rarely on anything other than printers, Mini, now mostly dead and 2 different kinds of Micro connector the regular which is limited to USB2.0 transfer rates and is very common, including on the 16 & 24MP Fuji bodies, and the USB3.0 spec Micro, which allows higher speeds but is rarely seen anywhere except hard drives and the occasional high-end camera, my D800 for example had the USB 3.0 Micro connector). USB-A also has 3 variations, but the only visible difference is the mandated blue colour for the spacer on USB 3.0-spec version, because you will never ever see a USB Mini-A connector, nobody used them unlike the Mini-B. USB 3.1 gen 1 is just a repeat of USB 2.0 Full Speed (which was USB 1.1), which caused enough confusion that you'd think they'd have learned better. They did the same thing with USB3.0, but kept the speed names the same, adding SuperSpeed (so Hi Speed remained the full USB2.0 spec, Full Speed was USB 1.1). USB 3.1 Gen1 is just all the legacy USB3.0 and earlier modes lumped together. USB 3.1 gen2 adds a new SuperSpeed+ mode that's twice as fast. USB 3.2 makes things even worse, as it keeps all the previous modes, but adds 2 new SuperSpeed+ modes, one of which being twice as fast. The branding is so bad that the industry is calling it USB 3.2 Gen2x2 instead. Thunderbolt 3 is not an Apple-only thing, it's actually an Intel spec released as a standard and is being supported by a number of non-Apple manufacturers including HP (who has been pushing their TB3 devices of late) and Dell, who actually was first to market with TB3 ports on their laptops. Pretty much everybody has gone to it as it solved the dock issue (which TB2 hadn't because it didn't include a Power Delivery solution). USB4 is pretty much just Thunderbolt 3.1, Intel handed over the Thunderbolt 3 standard to the USB-IF in 2018, although they retain control of the branding. USB4 is Thunderbolt 3 updated to allow USB3.2 tunnelling and a couple new connection modes. It also makes the Thunderbolt native transfer mode and PCIe optional (not that anyone uses the former anymore for much of anything, and the latter are only on fairly expensive devices like external GPU adapters). Thunderbolt 4 is basically USB4 with Intel Certification and a speed bump for the TB-native mode and PCIe tunnelling.

That's an unfair comparison, the 135L is known to be a mediocre performer compared to pretty much any fast 135 except the ancient Nikkor 135DC. I would have been shocked if the XF90 hadn't significantly outperformed the 135L. A Sigma 135/1.8 or Zeiss 135/2 will be a completely different story. Based on my research, the Fringer AF adapter is the way to go, specifically the version II. It gets you access to a number of lenses with no equivalent in native mount. The 400DOII in particular is an enticing option, as are the various xxx-600 zooms.

#4 is coming, an XF70-300 f4-5.6 is one of the '4 more lenses for 2020' according to the rumour sites.

The loss off the metering dial annoyed me until I realized that the Fn button next to the shutter had returned (last seen on the X-T1) and so I wasn't actually losing a control, only the ability to see what metering mode was selected. I would like to see Fuji add a couple metering modes to the menu though, specifically shadow/highlight spot metering and a 'preserve highlights' Multi-segment mode, forcing the metering options into a menu remove any reason to restrict the number of options. The LCD is a bigger issue for me, as I have an L bracket permanently mounted to most of my cameras. I shoot heavily in the vertical orientation and the hinge on the X-T4 interferes with the L-bracket and/or Arca-Swiss clamp. They also moved the remote socket back to the left side, the location on the X-T3 (right shoulder) was perfect, finally a remote socket that didn't require interesting cable routing when using an L bracket. Fuji's unique double tilt screen is still the best setup I've come across for stills work, on tripod and off, and was a major reason I bought my X-T2 in the first place. I've owned several cameras with flip/twist screens (Panasonic G1, G3, Olympus E-M5II, E-30) and find it decidedly less flexible than the double-tilt screen. Losing the double-tilt makes me distinctly less interested in the X-T4 that I would be otherwise. IBIS would be nice and longer battery life would be as well, although my X-T2 does well enough on battery when I leave it in normal performance mode.

Yes, if you aren't pressing AF-ON, the camera is just leaving the focus point where it is. You need to be pressing AF-On for the camera to actively focus. This is the same behaviour as every other ILC system unless it's doing some sort of Pre-AF. Check out the Bracketing function. Not only does it allow you to do exactly this, it gives you a LOT more control over what you are getting. In Drive Setting, set your Bracketing to AE Bracketing, then set your AE bracketing to the settings you want. You can take up to 9 frames with up to 3 stop difference between shots, depending on your settings in AE Bracketing, you set number and type of shot in one half of the screen and per-shot exposure change on the other half. Once configured, just set the drive mode dial to BKT to use.

X-T4 is USB-C Power Delivery, which means that the best solution to powering the camera is the USB-C port. The X-T3 got dummy battery support because the dummy NP-W126 battery existed already, as it dates back to the X-T1 which needed it for tethering work (no USB charge or external power support).

Do be careful when buying the cable. There are 5 different kinds of USB-C cables (not including cables which are USB-something else on the other end) USB 2.0 USB 3.1 Gen1 (which is what the X-T3 connector supports) USB 3.1 Gen2 Thunderbolt v3 Power/Charge only Cheap cables are usually either USB 2.0 or Charge-only and will cause performance issues (USB 2.0) or a failure to detect (Charge only). I generally recommend always buying USB 3.1 Gen2 cables unless you know you need Thunderbolt v3.

I don't have the X-E1 anymore, but on the X-E2 there's two settings for distance scale, one for MF and one for AF.

It's extremely difficult to design a zoom that holds consistent focus when zooming (in fact Internal focus lenses are nothing more than zooms designed to exaggerate this characteristic, which is why they focus breathe, that's just a side effect abusing zoom to focus). That's one reason why real cine zooms are large and expensive, they're also parfocal. Since stills work is not affected by how parfocal the zoom is, it's extremely common for lenses designed for stills mounts to do this. It is a problem for video and we're starting to see lenses which actually compensate for this electronically, but none of the Fuji lenses do this.

At the end of the day, only 3 settings truly matter for photography. Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Everything else are just automations designed to make your life easier. The X-T4 can most readily mimick the sort of camera everyone started with in photography education for decades, a manual mechanical camera. Put the camera in Manual focus mode, set the aperture, shutter speed and ISO manually and learn what happens when you mess up. I'd recommend getting and reading the Ansel Adams guides (The Lens, the Camera and The Print) or Freeman Patterson's introductory books (Patterson is the easier read BTW). Unfortunately a high-end camera is not designed to make the right things easier for a new photographer. The automations on a camera like the X-T4 are intended to reduce the workload of the experienced photographer not ease a new photographer into the experience. I'd suggest that you can either do what I suggest above, or your next step should be acquiring an entry-level camera like an X-T200. You have a camera that's not designed to hold your hand and something like the X-T200 will do much better if you want a camera that will hold your hand.

Check your settings, if BBAF is working, but the selector isn't you may have removed AF from the shutter. In the wrench menu, go to Button/Dial Setting and then Shutter AF and check if you have it turned off for AF-C and AF-S. The auto modes override that setting.

Capture One Express for Fuji is free and quite capable. I use the paid version personally, but the free version covers most needs if you don't batch process and don't mind not being able to make your own styles.

Only 2 lenses? 10-24 and 55-200 would be my choices. But I'm a landscape/nature shooter who hikes, as much as I love primes if limited to two lenses I'd have to go with those. For a second lens to pair with the 23/1.4, I'd pair the 56mm f1.2 for sure.

Brand new cameras tend to end up with a flurry of firmware updates for bug fixes, once it gets some time out there things will settle down although Fuji tends to release more firmware updates than other makers, adding capabilities and updating to improve older bodies performance with newer lens releases. The X-T4 is very new and still in the bug fix mode. The X-H1 was actually much worse for that when new, but has been around long enough to mature.

You've discovered that scenes can have a dynamic range (range from the brightest to the darkest in the scene) that exceeds what your camera can capture, and even less than a regular JPEG can show. You have a couple options for addressing this. 1. Use the DR settings (DR100, DR200, DR400 or DR Auto) to compensate, the higher the number, the more dynamic range it can show. This only works in JPEG though and your RAW files will be underexposed. 2. HDR bracket your shots. That includes taking an exposure bracket set (multiple shots using the exposure bracketing feature) and then creating an HDR image in post using a dedicated HDR application. 3. Shoot for the highlights and recover the shadows in post. You have less ability to save highlights than shadows, so use your RAW converter to bring up the shadows and bring down the highlights in post.

That's because setting the lens to anything other than A is telling the camera you want to control aperture on the lens. A is the setting for body control of aperture(same as on the ISO and Shutter dials)

Great! And welcome to a whole new world of lenses. There's a huge selection of amazing glass out there that are either adapted or native without electronics.

For landscapes, you probably want something wider. For a native AF lens that means the 14/2.8 or one of the 16mm's, or the 10-24 zoom. For portraiture you probably want something longer. The 50/2, 56/1.2 or 55-200 come to mind there.

And you will always see an f stop of 0 in the viewfinder when using non-electronic lenses, the camera has no way of knowing what aperture the lens is.

I'd suggest the 16-80 and throw your 12mm in the bag too, to carry when you'll be in town sightseeing. Leave the long lenses at home. Maybe also get a XC35mm f2 for low light. It's cheap, light & small.

No, but you can get 3rd party USB-powered dummy batteries to achieve the same effect. This is the one I use:: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B089SGH7V8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1