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jeremyclarke

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Everything posted by jeremyclarke

  1. Agree with most of what's been said. PRO X-T10: I found the extra drive/AE mode dials on the X-T1 got changed by accident a lot and it was annoying. I also find the drive dial on the X-T10 much more useful because there are more icons and it still works because there's more space for labels. That said I struggle to keep a function button open for ISO to replace the X-T1's dial. About ISO on command dial: It doesn't get changed all the time because you need to first push in the dial (not available on the X-T1) then choose an ISO. It's equivalent to mapping ISO to the front function button on the X-T1 then using the dial to pick a sensitivity, but having the front dial act as a function button AND chooser is really efficient. Mushy buttons on the X-T1 are really bad and are the worst on any of the Fuji cameras because of the first-gen weather sealing. Seems trivial but IMHO it's not, I use those buttons while looking through the EVF and being able to feel them clicking is important. PRO X-T1 The higher-magnification (bigger) EVF is mostly a perk and I wouldn't consider it a vital feature on it's own, but because of the magnification loss you also miss out on the picture-in-picture manual focus aid, which is really cool and more precise than focus peaking in many situations. The X-T10 is slower all around. When turning it on and off there's often a long loading period where many buttons (playback, menu, Q) are unresponsive until loading completes. I've noticed that the date shows during the loading period, and while it's loading the screen doesn't switch to EVF based on the eye sensor. To me this loading wait is symbolic of the overall lack of computing power in the X-T10 compared to the X-T1, with the much smaller buffer being the more easily noticed symptom.
  2. Not in CL and CH though right? When the drive dial is set to CH and the focus dial is set to AF-C (both physical dials) but the shutter is set to ES the outcome is that CH is honored but AF-C is ignored and focus is locked on the first shot.
  3. Does it actually happen for you with any other buttons? In my experience the hold-to-reset system works perfectly for every other button on the X-T10. The problem is the delay on video which is too close to the reset delay.
  4. I wonder if you're using a setting that silently disables PDAF, because that would explain a lot of what you're experiencing since the contrast AF never worked as well as PDAF and the new PDAF works in even lower light than the old one. Are you sure you are in MS-only (not MS+ES), that Face Detection is disabled etc?
  5. I know it was a decision Fuji made, but I consider this more a bug. Clearly they had to have the camera "ignore" either the ES setting or the AF-C setting since they are mutually incompatible, but WHY would they ignore the AF-C? It would be much better if AF-C, a PHYSICAL BUTTON were always honored than ES (and especially ES+MS omgwtfbbq). They could even make it an option (which to prioritize), but the current default just makes it feel like the camera is unable to track focus, not that a setting is stopping it from even trying. That said you clearly knew the rules, so it is indeed user error
  6. Just want to flag this as WTF! I love astro but my widest lens was 18mm and I never tried to get star trails before so I never bumped up against this limit. Now that I have the 16mm and tried to show some friends what star trails look like I was really dissapointed. Would REALLY like Fuji to fix this and offer a way to force ultra-long exposures. The Fuji App didn't even seem to have a way of setting the shutter speed at all when I tried it. Anyone else have that experience? I could only really edit ISO.
  7. Could you summarize what you found? I can't see the difference and Google Translate is having a hard time with all the technical language Also I'm not clear on the facial skin/post-processing-correction issue you'er talking about.
  8. Wow Wow epic fringes buddy! Maybe it's just the perfect storm of bad luck, but that's incredible! I find plants in front of white skies is the #1 source of CA with my 35mm f/1.4, so it doesn't surprise me that this was the subject that woke you up if this is an old problem. FWIW if you shot RAW and processed with Lightroom you'd be shocked how much CA is removed by the default algorithm, without even resorting to the CA sliders which would help even more (the default algorithm is harmless to all but CA, while the sliders will desaturate ALL purple/green so use carefully). I was blown away when I switched from Apple Aperture (RIP) to Lightroom and reprocessed some images I remembered having terrible purple fringing (trees in front of sky). There was a slight loss of detail but overall they just felt like images taken with a more expensive lens (I'm just speculating here, but the feeling is like an f/1.2 lens stopped down to f/1.4 rather than f/1.4 wide open). IMHO it's possible that Fuji changed their internal algorithm, which famously compensates for CA even in the RAW files. FW4 could have changes that make it work in different/less situations, so that an image which would have had CA-correction applied before doesn't now. This would mean the 23mm wide open always had terrible CA but it was just hidden. Either way in any tests you do DEFINITELY shoot RAW+JPG and make sure that the problem exists in both, as well as processing the RAW with LR and seeing if it makes a difference. Personally I wouldn't go back to a workflow that didn't correct CA automatically. Sure in situations like this you can see it clearly, but there are a lot more situations where it's subtle but destructive to detail/color in ways you wouldn't notice. Having it automatically corrected in those situations is priceless.
  9. +1 probably the worst button I've ever used in my life which seems like an exaggeration but seriously: How can this be the intended design? I got juice in my X-E1 buttons which meant I had to press hard to use them and some had no more "clickiness" but still that was better than the mess that is the video button on X-T1/X-T10. I think the idea was that it's too easy to push a normal button in that spot by accident, but now they made it almost impossible to push on purpose. Especially once re-assigned (ISO for me) it makes no sense to have the delay, and it just makes me want to work around using that button at all. LET ALONE the awful way the video mode works by only existing as start/stop recording! Who wants it to work that way? I would much rather have a slot on the Drive dial for video, then use the shutter to start and stop. Isn't that what everyone expects? Sometimes it feels like Fuji is so ashamed of their video quality (which isn't THAT bad IMHO, but video nuts clearly hate it) that they build the cameras to disincentivize people from using video at all. (sorry for posting about the same issue in two threads, but it's interesting to see how many others are bothered by this now that the X-T10 is out and making people think about it).
  10. Wow that sucks kids! I'm really glad the button is reprogrammable on my X-T10 (I use it for ISO because that way I can see/alter the auto-ISO settings unlike in the Q menu). Although I HATE the awkward delay on that particular button even when reprogrammed, which means you need to hold it down WAY longer than any other button, but not so long that it triggers the "choose what this button does" menu. It's awkward to get right (especially since you can't even feel if it's pushed down) and I've ended up in front of people trying multiple times to push it which is embarassing. I'm with Flysurfer in supposing that the rep was making things up that had more truthiness than truth. Fuji kind of sucks at making buttons programmable (AF-L AE-L as mention and see also: Trash button in shooting mode), so I'd just assume they didn't do it at first and consider it too much hassle to change all the relevant menus now.
  11. I see both sides on this issue. I was dying for the new features, so I'm 100% glad they are there no matter how complex they are. That said, the implementation is kind of insane with it's permutations. The fact that Face Detection breaks PDAF is a real bummer, especially since it seems to break it even when there's no face detected which sucks because it means you need to always be turning it on and off when it doesn't lock on in dark situations. (I found it really effective in bright situations though, unsurprisingly since contrast-AF works great there too). I think a lot of users would prefer that more of the new modes would hardcode settings they take for granted in a consisten way, rather than failing and depending on you to change another setting for it to work. This is especially complicated when it comes to AF-C and zone, which can be neutralized by ES, FD etc. I too would love if the C (saved settings) system could help with this. One for face-detect portraits with MS+ES, one for full-AFC-zone action shooting, etc. Unfortunately that system is a piece of crap and is essentially only useful for JPG shooters because most of the settings you can control only apply to JPG. I removed it from my Q menu because it did more harm than good when altered by accident.
  12. I'm on Adobe CC Photography program (photoshop+lightroom $10/month) and they came out with an update just before I received my pre-ordered X-T10. It sucks how Adobe holds you hostage when you buy a new camera, forcing you to make a big upgrade just to get camera support when they could so clearly backport the camera support only if they wanted to. IMHO it's a reason to just bite the bullet and get the CC plan because that way you don't have to think about it, but it's also pretty expensive. At the same time most of the competitive options are just as expensive. You pay $10/month for Capture 1 too, but that doesn't come with Photoshop! You could always try Darktable, the open source equivalent, though I haven't used it and YMMV: http://www.darktable.org/
  13. Like several others I found auto-ISO on other cameras (Canon, early Fuji firmware) essentially useless and slogged through the process of constantly managing ISO which I hated. Philosophically I believe ISO should be an automatic setting in most situations. With shutter and aperture there are creative reasons to choose specific values, and we should always be conscious of how they are set (slow shutter for movement, wide aperture for blur etc.) With ISO on the other hand there's no creative reason to set it one way or another, you basically always want it as low as possible. The only real decision is when the ISO is higher than you'd like and you have to choose whether to live with it or change the subject/lighting/circumstances/timing in order to be able to use a lower ISO. IMHO you can still make that decision with auto-ISO enabled by watching what value gets chosen. On the X-E1 late firmware I found auto-ISO really useful because of the new option to set a target shutter speed. In dark situations (common for me, I like to shoot parties/events) it was really helpful because I could leave the camera in "full auto" (or AV/TV) and it would get whatever shot was possible for me without having to think about it (and if I wanted to think about it I just had to look at the pre-shot display of selected settings to decide if the SS was too slow). Personally I usually leave it on max ISO 6400 because I don't find the quality is that much worse than 3200 and in my experience once you're up in high-ISO terrority it's much more valuable to get the correct exposure in camera than to have a lower ISO because the RAW files don't have nearly as much DR to correct exposure later. On the X-T10 (or X-T1 FW4) auto-ISO is a no-brainer to me. The ability to control shutter, aperture or both and still have EC work makes a huge difference and I use it almost all the time. Having three preset slots for auto-ISO is really helpful on the X-T10, as is the new design of the ISO chooser which makes it WAY easier to quickly find the right preset compared to how it worked on the X-E1. Times I don't use auto-ISO: Night photography where I basically need to trick the camera into making strange decisions and have tons of time. Studio flash situations where I have everything planned out and know I'll get consistent exposures. For run-and-gun flash work (full manual, I don't have a TTL flash) I actually find that auto mode on the camera can work surprisingly well. I set shutter to 180x, aperture creatively (usually f/1.4 ) then use exposure compensation to darken the exposure until the flash and ambient light are balanced. Obviously this system requires me to constantly monitor how things look, but it ensures I'm never completely blowing out the ambient light (which I find usually makes ugly pics) and it's fast and easy to use EC+manual controls on my flash.
  14. Interesting request. I'm not sure many people have the review set to a long enough time for that to be of value. It makes a lot more sense to have a long review time on a DSLR where you need to chimp to review (and often don't review at all). Since many people review their pics in the EVF on Fuji it makes more sense to have a very short review period so you can always know what you got, but also start shooting almost right away. If people are using the short review period there would never be time to decisively delete photos before the preview was gone. In theory I'd support this as an option if Fuji added it though, wouldn't hurt me as long as I could also choose to make it a function button. If it was one or the other I'd definitely fight to have the function button rather than delete-during-review.
  15. It's funny how badly we all reacted, when the final product was totally fine and what we'd expect from a smaller X-T1. Something about how the front command dial looked was bad I think, which ultimately makes sense since the front command dial is easily the lowest quality part of the X-T10. It's still better than the squishy, wearing-a-condom feeling of the dial on the X-T1, but it's made of cheap plastic and still has more squishiness than I'd like. The dial on the X-E1 was perfect by comparison IMHO: Rounded nubs and made of dull ballistic-looking plastic, it felt like something from a submarine rather than something from a dollar store FM radio. It's squareness/height was the other aspect that turned people off, but that was just lack of familiarity. In hand it's obvious that the height is absolutely necessary to make the camera holdable for people with normal size hands. The half-case adds height and that's a good thing, without it I'd be dropping the camera constantly. Either way, the silver metal on the X-T10 is completely satisfactory just like on the X-E1.
  16. Lots of food for thought in this thread (including a shockingly detailed response from me): http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/538-x-t1-graphite-silver-vs-black/ It's theoretically about the X-T1 but the responses also apply to the X-T10 (which has the materials/colors of the X100x/X-Ex line where silver is the "true" color and black is "painted on" rather than X-T1 where black is the underlying material and GS is "painted on")
  17. FWIW Fuji Guys replied to me on YouTube and said there was stock for Canada and it must just be that the store I shop at never tried to order them. Not sure why Amazon would still not have them but apparently we should be able to order from our stores if we push them to add it to their system.
  18. It's interesting to see the little differences from what is in the X-T10 (like the look of the Point/Zone/Wide AF menu, which is much nicer on X-T10). I thought they'd be essentially the same firmware, but it looks like they've already forked significantly. Bummer, since it makes it more likely the X-T10 gets abandoned from the upgrade cycle earlier. Would much prefer if their updates were forced to be basically in sync.
  19. Yeah, I think it might be a Canada-wide stock issue which isn't so surprising. I'll go nag the Fuji Guys on YouTube about it
  20. Thanks Mike, that's the X-T1 grip though :S That said they do seem to have the X-T10 one in stock: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1149214-REG/fujifilm_16471691_mhg_xt10_hand_grip.html Unfortunately after including customs service and currency conversion B&H would cost me an extra 42$, which is enough to make me keep waiting.
  21. I've looked everywhere and can't find a Canadian distributor who actually has the add-on grip for X-T10 in stock. I placed an order with Camera Canada but the confirmation email said what I feared: They don't actually have it, so effectively what I did was unwittingly pre-order it. My local store didn't even have it in their system (though they had a stack of half-cases a mile high for the giveaway promotion). Are stores in the states actually stocking them? Amazon.com seems to have them but even there I'm seeing an awkward "In stock but may require an extra 1-2 days to process." message. Anyone have a store in Canada that ships and has them in stock?
  22. Thank you Patrick for trying to clarify all these exceptions! It's infuriating and inscrutable as a normal user just trying to make them work. I picked up my camera to confirm what you said here and had to change many settings before I actually got to the point where AF-C+CH was working so that I could test the PDAF points aspect. I was happy to see that, once you are in an AF-C+CH ready mode the AF point/zone UI is automatically converted to only show you the points/zones that are available, this is great! Glad they got it to "just work" in this aspect. Luckily FD seems to self-disable whenever you are in CH mode which makes sense and integrates perfectly because FD is always a "maybe" feature, so if it ever isn't working I won't be shocked. Kind of wish the same would happen with the ES setting (forced off, yellow in Q menu), though I can see how that's not as obvious of a benefit as it is with FD. What's needed now is a symbol/modifier next to the CH symbol ("H"+camera with many frames stacked below) or the "AF-C" symbol that indicates when they aren't going to work because of another setting (ES). I know there is an overlay message shown when switching to CL/CH saying that focus will be locked, but it's easy enough to miss and having a permanent warning would make it easier for people to figure out the whole algorithm that determines whether you can use full AF-C+CH right now. P.S. Just writing all that I had to change what I said many times while trying things out on the camera. Hopefully it gets easier!
  23. Fair point but unlike the others I disagree on even your premise. I often shoot with my left eye on the viewfinder (got used to it on X-E1 because I found the camera more balanced that way) which obviously makes pushing the trash button while looking through the EVF reasonable. Even while shooting with my right eye, I don't find it a problem to push the trash button while looking through the EVF. Sure I need to take my hand off the lens, but I can hold my composition and get back to shooting very quickly. Remember: What we're comparing this "inconvenient" location to is using either the Q menu or the actual menu menu to change a setting. I don't know about you but I NEVER find it comfortable to use the Q menu with my eye to the EVF because it blocks out my view of the world and I end up losing my composition. It also requires a lot more keypresses on multiple buttons (Q->d-pad->command dial->shutter) which usually means my "hold" on the camera is compromised and I need to re-adjust after. If pushing the trash button could avoid an entire trip through the Q menu I think many of us could find times when it was more than worth it. Don't want to pile onto Dis for disagreeing with us though, since clearly he's willing to let us have what we want if Fuji will give it to us! It's certainly not unreasonable to think this isn't the end of the world, it's just something that would make a big difference for a lot of us without (presumably, I'm a software developer) taking a whole lot of effort from Fuji.
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