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jeremyclarke

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Everything posted by jeremyclarke

  1. Wow I never heard of that lens but it's a perfect example anyway! It's sublimely equivalent to Fuji's 60mm f/2.8 Macro, which also does extremely well in testing, but isn't a wonderful prime for non-macro because of it's slow aperture. For Fuji the 60mm is one of it's cheapest and least compelling primes, there to offer affordable access to a specific genre of photography, and I think the same is true of Canon. The problem for Canon is that the 60mm is also maybe it's best APS-C prime lens, whereas Fuji has many other options that are better in many different ways (not least of which the upcoming high-end macro prime that will surely replace the 60mm as Fuji's macro flagship). Finally I'll note that while Canon themselves suck at EF-S primes, other companies aren't wasting the opportunity. That Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 is a workhorse that challenges anything Canon OR Fuji have released for versatility and especially price. Would love to see Fuji or even Sigma releasing something like that for the X system.
  2. FWIW I'll add one more practical point that can get lost in the shuffle: An 85mm f/1.8 on a FF sensor may be the closest FF comparison to what you get from the 56mm f/1.2 on Fuji, but that doesn't mean the Fuji 56mm f/1.2 and Canon 50mm f/1.2 lenses shouldn't be compared at all. If you choose Canon but you want the size/cost benefits of their APS-C cameras (i.e. 7DII) then the FF lenses are your only choice for all but a couple of their cheapest primes. There's no way to get a small, cheap 35mm f/1.4 for Canon, you HAVE to buy the huge, expensive FF L lens even if it's going on your Rebel. This is because Canon treats their "crop sensor" lineup as a discount brand, rather than as a valid tradeoff of size/cost v. quality. Fuji on the other hand treats their APS-C cameras as top of the line, so their APS-C primes are smaller and lighter than what you'd have to carry to get the same effect on a Canon APS-C camera. The day Canon comes out with fast awesome primes in EF-S (crop sensor) or EF-M (their half-assed mirrorless format) this may change, but I doubt they'll ever come out with anything comparable to the 56mm f/1.2 or 16mm f/1.4 lenses designed specifically to take advantage of APS-C sensors.
  3. Fabulously pedantic response bro. Adds nothing that wasn't obvious to everyone, hope it made you feel smart at least.
  4. Yeah exactly! It's both useless and confusing in different ways For ISO the whole Q menu is overall a bad choice. It doesn't show you the "auto" parameters of auto-ISO when you switch so it's not helpful at all IMHO. Especially on the X-T10 the function button ISO menu is REALLY GOOD, letting you quickly scroll through the 3 auto-ISO slots and "see what's inside". Better than the other Fuji cameras and infinitely more useful than the Q menu version.
  5. So far he's the only one that can make it work, which is inherently suspicious. I'm not going to just believe him when so many other people have clearly found that it doesn't work in real life. My question about manual focus was to remove the inconsistent distraction of AF time. All the questions and tests we're doing are about isolating why it works for him but is impossible for almost everyone else. His answer showed that M v. AF wasn't the problem, and it can work and fail in both cases, so together we isolated the problem which is a good thing He's seems to have been the only person to have experimented with intentionally-slow shutter speeds, so I tried that and found that it had a major effect on the possibility+reliability of getting a single shot in CL mode. It's a bug because it almost always takes two shots, as everyone who tried it has learned, but in some specific, undocumented cases (slow shutter speed and/or delayed focus via. not locking focus) it takes only one shot. Features that work randomly are bugs if they annoy you, and this one annoys pretty much everyone who tries to get single shots out of CL mode. If you wanted it to always take two shots because that's what it does, you don't get it when the shutter is slow: Bug. If you wanted it to take one shot when you quickly push the button you don't get that because so often it is literally not possible to move fast enough: Bug. It should consistently do one thing or the other and it should be referenced in the manual. My trigger control is not the issue because the amount of time to get a single shot isn't consistent, it's essentially random and sometimes impossible. It's not the end of the world, and I understand where subtle issues like this come from, but it's still a bug. Pretty much all other camera brands have solved this, so Fuji looks silly and we're annoyed.
  6. Okay makes sense. I can do the same as long as the shutter is slower than 1/60. At 1/30 I can get single shots "consistently" whereby consistently I mean "by holding the camera funny and jerking my finger away which would give a blurry shot at 1/30". At 1/8 and everything manual I can actually get a consistent single shot, which is interesting and useless to know. So in summary: You cannot get a single shot in CL+AF-S mode when focus is locked (shutter half-pressed+green box), but it is possible in very specific scenarios where the shutter speed is slow and you are jamming the shutter button down. As far as I'm concerned this is now even more a bug than before I participated in the thread. It's so impractical to get a single shot in CL that it might as well not be there. A feature that only works when you ignore the intended functioning of the camera (half pressing shutter to confirm focus before fully depressing it) is a broken or non-functioning feature.
  7. I said "with manual focus". Maybe you had the camera on manual focus while testing, but you didn't mention it in your post, so IF you had mentioned it it would be new information. You didn't mention it, so I still don't know if anyone can get one shot in CL and manual focus.
  8. FWIW I just tried and I'm 90% sure that there's no way to INTENTIONALLY stop it from taking two shots in CL mode. With my X-T10 the ONLY way to get one shot in CL is when the camera lags for some reason, which is mostly random and thus completely uncontrollable. Specifically I can get one shot in AF-S when I tap the shutter all the way down without locking focus. In that case I hear the lens (35mm f/1.4) focusing, then one shot. If I first lock focus, then push the shutter I ALWAYS get two shots. If I set it to M focus I ALWAYS get two shots. Is there someone here who can get one shot in CL with manual focus? That's the real test IMHO. --- Separately +1 to 95mb/s cards. I had a 35mb/s card I thought was as fast as the camera, but at least with the X-T1 I rented (because the X-T10 hadn't been released yet) there was a significant difference in the write time (orange/green flashing light after a burst of shots) when I used the 95mb/s card. If the real problem is write time then it will make a difference. Not sure if it applies equally to the X-T10, which has a smaller buffer and worse i/o overall, but I'm sold for life now, no more cards that aren't at least 95mb/s and in the future I'll buy the fastest card my camera supports. If the real problem was having two shots to manage in LR when you only needed one, then you're SOL, get used to using the Drive dial and/or living with single-shot.
  9. Great work! Shows off how wondefully cinematic Fuji video can look when you have good light and interesting subjects. Unfortunately the moiré and rolling shutter is still very distracting as you point out. Whenever you pan the camera the rolling shutter is super visible. Interestingly a lot of viewers would probably think their browser or your export process was responsible for the jagged look, but at least to me it just screams "this is the problem with Fuji". My policy so far: Keep the camera on a tripod and avoid panning because shake/pan isn't just distracting movement, it's rolling-shutter+distracting-movement which is 10x as bad. Still though, lovely video and surely not ruined by the subtle failures of Fuji video. Normal people will be much more interested in the girls, the baseball and the beautiful weather than they are in the chain link fence
  10. I think what he meant was the "Saved Settings" system in the Q menu that lets you batch together a group of settings and quickly switch between them (it also works via the normal menus but is way more useful if you use the Q version). thowlights: I think you'll find few people with meaningful answers. That feature is generally considered not very useful because the "settings" it can control are almost exclusively JPG-only, like white balance, dynamic range and film simulation, none of which have any meaningful effect on RAW images. Most of the options people care about can't be controlled via the C-1-7 system that it's not worth using it for most serious shooters. Maybe someone will correct me on this, but it's come up before and a lot of people echoed my opinion. IMHO the best setting for C1-7 is COMPLETELY DISABLED. If you have one of the newer cameras you can edit your Q menu by holding down the Q button a long time then choosing what you want to show in each slot. If you just change the "C1" button to something else then it will never bother you again. Focus instead on getting all your most important settings into the Q menu and removing the ones that you never change so that it's as clear and useful as possible, then practice using the Q menu to quickly make your changes. All the options you can control with C1 can be controlled by the Q menu, but not the other way around. Bonus tip: You can set multiple spaces in the Q menu to the same setting, so if you have extra space, add copies of your most-used settings so that it takes even less clicks to get to them no matter where in the Q menu you start
  11. Interesting results! I've always found that in real life the smallest and biggest focus point sizes give the least reliable results because the small one fails so often and the large one misfocuses so often. You're analyzing some very precise focus here with a very convenient subject (i.e. tons of tiny vertical lines) so it makes sense the smallest point works the best and is a good test for your purposes. Personally I'd support Fuji making a smaller focus point. It could just be an even smaller box that's smaller than the cross. That said it may not be a meaningful change, I suspect the current smallest size reflects the actual limits of precision for the AF engine, in which case a smaller box would do nothing. Hope they're working on it either way! I need to remember to be more careful about AF box size and make it smaller when there's enough light+contrast for it to still work.
  12. I can be bothered, but I won't find an answer to this question: Why doesn't Fuji allow speeds slower than 30s in "T" mode?
  13. I for one am glad that LR supports the film simulations now so I don't have to worry about this nearly as much. Fuji RAW are way too grey for my liking and every shot requires tons of work, but as long as they're in the Astia calibration profile in LR they come out workable from the start with gentle colors and really nice tones compared to the true RAW. If it wasn't for that, I might be tempted to shoot JPG like others here. Either way Fuji needs to stop this terrible smoothing effect or at least give us an option to disable it. If it's hardwired into the CPU (plausible enough) then they need to hard-wire it in with a SWITCH so it can be disabled! As anyone who's used the Detail block in LR knows, any noise reduction that works is going to do horrible damage to your detail. It's a travesty that Fuji would force users to deal with such strong NR and not even give us a way to disable it, even if it's just in JPG.
  14. So you think any adapater that's 2.5mm male and 3.5mm female will work I guess, that's good news. I'll probably just go to the store for and make sure it works before I leave. The ones on Amazon are so cheap that the descriptions are kind of crappy. Yeah I noticed the same thing. The one WITH the smartphone adapter is cheaper on Amazon.ca right now so it seems like an easy choice. Recording with a smartphone is definitely something I'd like to have as a fallback option, since I could put the phone in someone's pocket and sync audio later for times when wiring to the camera is inconvenient. Thanks for the help. Any tips on procedure to make sure it's working or how to avoid common issues with a setup like this?
  15. I know Fuji cameras are bad at video and you need to be really careful to get anything worth looking at (use a tripod to avoid shake-related jaggies, avoid moiré-inducing textures, use MF to avoid focus hesitation), but I have some things I want to record and so far the ability to use my f/1.4 primes means my X-T10 is still probably the best way to get it done. Assuming I can record something that looks good, I still need to figure out audio, as the internal mic is obviously just okay, and if my 35mm f/1.4 is ever in AF mode the noise it makes re-adjusting focus is really really loud. So what will I need to use an external mic with the X-T10? I know the mic jack is 2.5mm rather than the more common 3.5mm. Has anyone gotten an adapter to work for it? When I look at adapters on Amazon a lot of them specifically mention that the microphone won't work but they are talking about headphone+mic "headsets" rather than e.g. a small lavalier mic plugged in (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107121-2-5mm-Adaptor-Plated/dp/B005KP2AJY/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1441477003&sr=1-7&keywords=2.5mm+3.5mm+microphone ). Anyone have an adapter they bought that they know works with Fuji cameras? In terms of the mic itself I'm leaning towards this Audio Technica lavalier mic because it's pretty cheap, has a long cord and will also work with my iPhone if I want to record sepearately and sync up later. http://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATR3350IS-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00HZA6EJO/ref=pd_cp_267_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GB9Z66AP2R02AWFTF07 Anyone know a reason why this wouldn't work with my X-T10+an adapter? Advice for a better setup to use with X-T10? Thanks for any advice about what I should buy, or also any general advice about audio recording on Fuji cameras.
  16. So what do we disagree about? Why do you feel the need to compare my request to the camera "wiping my a$$" if we both agree that it would be better if I got what I wanted? I said there should be a way to get >30s exposures without buying extra equipment and you all started attacking me for being lazy and cheap. I have no idea why you would do that unless you disagreed, even though I was pretty sure we DID agree because it's such a reasonable request. Anyway peace and love to all and good luck with your art and hope you enjoy the time you spend here on the forum!
  17. Dude, you should find a hobby other than gear forums, any ideas
  18. When did we get so spiteful and bitter about simple feature requests? Sorry if I'm not being polite, I'm trying. Your response is really defensive though, and I don't think your feelings are really about this issue but about general trends in photography. You can call it "lazy" if you want, but I don't consider it laziness to want Fuji to make my camera more capable, I consider it sensible. I'm not saying it's the end of the world, I'm saying it seems like an easy to implement improvement that would remove the need for a whole genre of cheap add-ons that degrade my Fuji experience. What damage would it do for "T" mode to let me pick any number of seconds rather than just up to 30? How is that comparable to wanting a built in tripod or built in remote? I'm just asking for a tweak to the software they could do via firmware update.
  19. FWIW I find LR to be extremely useful at pumping up stars even with out PS. The "Detail" block (noise reduction/sharpening) is very useful and giving it time and trying things makes a big difference. As already said any NR is going to take out some of the smaller stars, but it can also significantly reduce the noise in the darkness, so you need to figure out the Goldilocks sweet spot where the noise isn't distracting but you still have all the important (i.e. obviously-not-noise) stars visible. I've also been shocked at how much tweaking white balance makes a difference, especially local adjustments to give sky and foreground different white balances since they are lit completely differently from each other. Here's a shot I took in Bohol, Philippines with my X-E1 and 18-55mm (haven't had a good chance to use my X-T10+16mm yet unfortunately, it was cloudy when I was in the country last weekend):
  20. The fact that I'd also need a tripod in most cases doesn't invalidate my argument, but you're right that almost any long exposure photography is going to require thoughtful packing anyway, so incorporating a timer isn't the end of the world. It's still another thing to worry about though, and there's no good reason why we should have to, if the software just let us do what we need there would be no problem. Completely unhelpful comment, but useful in that I can now safely assume your reactions come from a place of arrogance. I use Fuji X cameras because I like direct physical controls, not because I want a hard to use camera. When has the wifi failed you within the span of an exposure? The camera and phone are right next to each other, and should work fine. There are myriad problems with the app, but that's not even one that I ever had (once I was connected and taking the shots I wanted). If it WAS a problem then they should FIX THAT ALSO About my body of >30s photography: I have an X-T10 and the remote triggers I already own (and use for various tasks) can't help me take a shot longer than 30s, so how do you expect me to have done so? I wanted to experiment with ultra long exposures and star trails and discovered that, for no apparent reason, I needed to buy something in order to proceed. I'll probably just get a timer at some point, but I shouldn't be blocked from experimenting if the camera is capable of doing it on it's own.
  21. Did someone recommend that? I said ones that were recommended here. Do you own it and find it works well? Seems like most people want something intelligent for this task, which that one doesn't seem to be and which makes the recommended products expensive. If the camera did it then we'd have all the display+computing power we paid for on the job. What is your reason for wanting the camera to not offer 30+ second exposures? Sounds like you're referring to my "preview-as-you-go bulb mode" comment, by which I meant the Olympus feature where the image develops on screen as time passes, so you can judge for yourself when it's bright enough and let go. Obviously this is in a whole other league from just allowing 30+ second exposures with "T" mode, but it's an example of a great, useful feature that CaNikon never bothered to implement either.
  22. Still want the feature, along with touchscreen AF point selection, preview-as-you-go bulb mode and in-camera usb battery charging which also aren't offered in "pro DSLRs". If there as some limitation to length then bulb mode would cap out at 30s too. Seems they are limiting the UI for no good reason, so why not let us access higher numbers? Paying for a timer isn't too bad, but carrying it around just in case is annoying and none of the ones recommended here are particularly cheap or disposable. Using the app is such a logical solution for "remote release" situations, if they just increased the maximum length it would solve this problem on it's own.
  23. I guess a custom trigger is the only option for > 30s Bummer because I already have my YongNuo triggers I got for remote flash but which also work great as shutter releases because they plug into the audio jack and act as either a wired (one trigger) or wireless (two triggers) system. It's just a "shutter button" on the trigger though, so they can't give me options the camera doesn't support natively WRT the app, I figured out the crazy behavior Dis tried to describe earlier. Essentially the app functions in a P/A/S/M mentality, where it reads the camera's settings (i.e. which dials are set to "A") and gives you controls based on that. If you set the shutter dial to "T" and turn on the app you will have control over the time inside the app. The problem is that once the app is open there's NO WAY to switch modes, so you are stuck with only the setting you started with and changing requires completely redoing the whole connection process. So if you want to do long exposures with the app: Make sure you have the aperture set to what you want Make sure the shutter dial is set to "T" Connect the app (if you can make that work OMG just testing this is driving me crazy!) Give up Buy a cheap remote release Curse the app developers at Fuji, but know that every other camera company's app is also garbage
  24. One important distinction that may be worth clarifying is that the ability to "change the ISO with command dial" on X-T10 is probably not what you think. It's not that you can set the dial to directly change the ISO, it's that the command dial on the X-T10 is ALSO a function button (when depressed) and you can set THAT to be ISO, then use the dial itself to change the value and depress it again to confirm. On the X-T1 the equivalent would be to assign ISO to the front function button, since it exists to replace the "missing" function button on the dial which can't be depressed on the X-T1. You'd have to use the function button AND the dial in that case, just like if you assigned ISO to the back function button on the X-T10. As pointed out it's mostly irrelevant because Fuji chose to not allow ISO as a function button on the X-T1, presumably because the complexities of overriding the mechanical dial were too complicated to execute or deemed too complicated for users to have to deal with. Personally I prefer the X-T10 system because like you I found the X-T10 ISO dial simultaneously too tedious to use and too dumb to reflect what I really want to do, which is switch between AUTO-ISO configurations rather than absolute ISOs. 90% of the time I can get my ISO right just by changing between the auto-ISO options, but the X-T1 makes it really hard to do because there's no function button for it and the Q menu doesn't show what's IN each auto-iso config, only it's number. On the X-T10 the ISO function button menu shows you the "contents" of each auto-ISO config as you scroll through them, which to me is the ideal functioning. I wish the X-T1 ISO dial had positions indicating the auto-ISO slots, THAT would be useful. Ideally you could switch between them and as you do a graphic would flash on screen indicating the parameters (max-ISO, min-shutter) for that auto-iso slot. This would give the best of both worlds and personally it would redeem the ISO dial in my eyes. Of note: The way it REALLY should work on both cameras is that they let us configure the front command dial to change settings directly, so we could just spin it to change the ISO rather than having to push->spin->push to change the value. That would match how Olympus and Sony make the dials work and would speed up usage significantly. Currently both the front and back dial have confusing and rarely-needed effects on how the auto-exposure chooses values, which I'd rather disable entirely, let alone be able to set the dials things I actually want (ISO, focus modes, shutter modes). On the thread's subject line: "Firmware not the same"? Just to get back to the inherent question the answer is that the firmware has MANY differences between the two cameras that I never realized until I started posting my experiences with the X-T10 here and got confused responses from X-T1 owners. A lot of little things were improved in the X-T10 firmware but went unchanged in the updated X-T1. None are really important that I've found so far, but some are really valuable updates in my eyes. Either way, anyone who assumed (like me) that the firmware was basically the same thing running on two bodies turned out to be wrong, they are different operating systems that happen to have most of the same features. The best example I can think of now is the Face Detection button, which on the X-T10 just enables/disables FD directly, but on the X-T1 brings up a stupid menu with only two options, tripling the number of button pushes needed to use it and forcing you to use the D-pad rather than just the one function button. A super valuable update if you use FD and I find it hard to understand why it wasn't backported to the X-T1. The ISO menu is the other example I can think of but as already stated, it has a better reason for not being there: The physical dial. Overall my most charitable guess is that the updates they didn't backport to the X-T1 were left out because they didn't want to "change" things they didn't have to. Maybe Fuji believes people who have had the camera for year(s) and are used to them don't want to have to learn new behaviours (like the FD button) even if they are better. I humbly disagree if that's the case, but there's a logic to it.
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