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jeremyclarke

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Everything posted by jeremyclarke

  1. I've discovered Lightroom (CC/mac) can't even PLAY the files from my X-T10. Not that I was going to edit them there, but it's the logical place for me to catalog and watch them. Anyone else have that problem? Also that example video was fun because it includes one of the worst elements of all Fuji videos: The moment at the end where the camera points down as the user fumbles to push the stop recording button. It seems stupid but it's SUPER IMPORTANT for casual video shooters, since it effectively means all our "little" videos need to be edited just to make them not look ridiculous.
  2. I'm really happy with the XC in terms of IQ. No complaints at all really and when I can get the ISO low enough it's easily comparable to the 18-55mm in terms of quality. It's slow as hell for indoors though as is obvious from the specs. If I needed indoors/low-light though I'd get the 50-140mm not the 55-200mm. The OIS works well and no one seems to complain about it. The XC is light and easy to carry around which I cherish since I often bring it "just in case" and use it for a few wildlife shots on days when I mostly use the 18-55mm or my 35mm.
  3. I think you'll fin the X-T10 has the same battery-door-too-close-to-tripod-socket issue as the X-E1. I held mine up to each other and they were basically the same layout. On the bright side the tripod socket in the add-on grip for X-T10 (MHG-XT10) is in a much more central location, so the battery door should work with a blackrapid/tripod plate. I had the same experience with my X-E1 and iShoot grip, much better overall positioning for the tripod thread. One of the weirdest things about the X-T10 is the SD card slot, which is shockingly hard to access. I find I need a fingernail to get it to pop out, then I need to use my finger in a weird way to slide it out. Much easier on the X-E1 to pop it up and grip the card with two fingers. FWIW I found the SD card door on the X-T1 too loose and it kept popping open when I didn't want it to, so I don't consider either camera as being significantly better/worse in that regard.
  4. I doubt there will be a firmware update that magically improves battery life in a significant way. You should get a few extras, the off-brand ones are cheap and work well. The latest firmware also does a WAY better job of using the 3 chunks of "battery life" to display remaining power, so you have a much longer warning period (the old display was basically broken and the last 2 chunks represented a tiny fraction of total power).
  5. I think this is already supported by the "Distance Indicator" (see page 5 of manual, also referred to as "depth-of-field indicator" on their site), which shows how far away the focus point is as well as the range in front of and behind focus that should be sharp. It got really small in the new cameras but was huge and turquoise on the originals so it was harder to miss. The good news about this one is that they seem to agree and have fixed it on the X-T10. Pushing the FD button just turns it on/off like the view mode button which is great (only problem: Lack of communication. There's no graphic that pops up to confirm your change, you need to keep the focus mode icon visible because it looks different when FD is enabled)
  6. Considering their similar ability to blur the background, for me size is a big factor that is an obvious win for the 90mm. When I tried the 50-140mm at the store I was shocked at how huge it felt. Not as big as the Canon but way too big for the Fuji bodies unfortunately. If you need the zoom range then by definition it's worth carrying, but for me I know that I would rarely want to leave the house with it for both price and weight reasons. 90mm Weight 540 g Diameter 75 mm Length 105 mm 50-140mm Weight 995 g Diameter 82.9mm Length 175.9mm -- I would definitely be curious to see any side-by-side comparisons of these two lenses shooting the same subject, esp. at 90mm to see what you lose and 140mm to see what you gain from the zoom in terms of DoF. I'd also like to see how the bokeh flavor compares, since I've found the 50-140 to have unflatteringly stark blur for it's size/price, but it could be just poorly chosen subjects.
  7. Would also be a priceless feature simply to be able to use the whole screen to review vertical photos. Fuji's never really gotten a great UI worked out for reviewing tall photos. On the X-E1 it was just terrible and you couldn't even get decent magnification for analysis. On the X-T10 it's much better but still flawed because as soon as you zoom in you're seeing only the center of the photo. The lack of "vertical review" is most offensive when reviewing images in the EVF because if you are shooting vertically you see the instant-review in the correct format (filling the screen) but playback mode in the EVF has no "rotation awareness" and shows you what you would see if you were holding the camera normally. Please Fuji: When the camera is rotated in playback mode show images rotated!
  8. On the X-T10 I don't have enough buttons for what I need (ISO, Face detect, AF mode, shutter type, WB, video, wifi) and I've been training myself to quickly reprogram the fn button between a few of them. It's pretty fast once you get used to the order of the options in the picking menu, and it doesn't take as much attention as using a real menu. There's a lot of times when I only need one of WB/AF mode/Shutter type (i.e. flash/no flash normal/macro) that a quick way to reprogram makes a huge difference. Of course having the video button in particular locked down to a particular function isn't the end of the world at all. Given it's delicacy it would be the last one I'd choose to reprogram on the fly. I'll probably keep it as Face Detection now, since it's a good "push once and forget" function (unlike ISO/WB etc which require further attention).
  9. Agree that it's the only one that will actually interest anyone. As an X-T10 user it's not exactly what I wanted, but it will help. The full description makes it clear that all they are changing is to REMOVE the ability to hold down that button for 2s to change it's function (so you have to hold down "back/disp" or use the menus to change what it does). This will mean that I won't accidentally trigger the function-changing UI when I was just trying to use the button itself, which will be a huge benefit since that's what made the button so inconsistent (i.e. having to hold it down long enough to trigger video, but not long enough to trigger function-change). That said it's not what I wanted because IMHO it's NOT a button I would push by accident while turning the Exp. Comp. dial (as they imply in the release notes). It's too recessed for that to happen anyway, and the caution the are applying is redundant. I'd rather have the button activate immediately on press like the others, and keep the ability to re-assign it on the fly (I love that feature on every other button). Oh well, at least they heard our screams of frustration and gave us a simple solution that will make the button more useful. FWIW though I have no faith at all that this signals any meaningful changes to how video works on X-T* cameras. I wouldn't be surprised to see the video button be re-programmable on the X-T1 - which is a no-brainer at this point - but this new FW doesn't give me any reason to think we'll be seeing a "mode"-based video option in the future. Even getting a re-programmable video button on X-T1 isn't a sure thing though. This change fixes a BUG on the X-T10 caused by making it re-programmable, but that BUG doesn't exist on the X-T1 yet, so it may not get the same amount of attention. P.S. Fuji if you're listening give us a programmable trash button already!
  10. Another solution to the problem (No way to use LCD for menu in "only eye+sensor" mode): Option that just enables "eye sensor" when you are in the menu or playback mode, even if you are normally in "eye+sensor" mode. I.e. When shooting only the EVF works, but when reviewing/menu it switches between LCD/EVF depending on the sensor. I bet most people wouldn't mind if this was the default, since it's so natural to use the menu on the LCD. The option would be better off by default though, in case people got used to the old way and prefer it for stealth reasons (I would use eye+sensor only mode at a concert or show, where I didn't want the LCD to come on so that I didn't bother people).
  11. That's a great idea I hadn't heard yet. Touch to start, touch to end and you obviously won't affect the camera's stability. Would go great with an increased max shutter length (30s is too short as many have noted) and a non-stupid app connection/reconnection system, but could solve my night photo problems on it's own if they just made it work.
  12. Good tip. For #1 and #2 you could also just choose a longer timespan than what you had previously, that way you won't end up with a dead phone/camera the next time you put it down and forget that you completely disabled one of the most important features of a battery-driven device (i.e. auto-sleep). None of this would be nearly as necessary if the app's wifi connection wasn't so damn fragile. As soon as ANYTHING isn't absolutely perfect it dies completely and forces you to start from scratch, makes me crazy. I don't understand why it can't maintain the wifi connection when your phone goes to sleep, and especially why it quits out of the connection completely when you switch to review mode. Anyway thanks for the tips. Definitely good to keep in mind when you have time to get set up but not to redo everything when it fails
  13. Unfortunately this isn't right. The X-T10 doesn't have video on the drive dial either, which is a bummer for all Fuji users since it means they still haven't figured this out! Edit: You ARE right that they switched gears on this issue with the X-T1 though. I just checked my X-E1 and was reminded that it did have a "video mode" rather than "start recording video" button, it's just that it was horribly positioned inside the "Drive" menu which I hated. What you were wrong about is that they backpedaled with the X-T10, tragically they instead renewed their vows with the "start recording video" button metaphor even though the large drive dial on the X-T10 would have been a perfect place to re-implement "video mode". I like your idea about repurposing drive options that people never use for video mode! Everyone probably has one drive mode they don't care about.
  14. +1000 The way it works now is terrible and I bet you're not the only one with lots of videos starting with your feet/the sky because the system is so wrong. Every cheap digital camera I've used (including an ancient Fuji I loved) had a 'video mode' rather than a 'video record button' and I NEVER questioned the logic. It's so much better to use the shutter button in a video mode than to have one button that does both things. IMHO they should keep "Start video recording" as a function button option, but seperately have a "enter video mode" one which is what goes on the video button by default. Ideally they should put video on the drive dial where it damn well belongs (nothing on that dial is ever honored when you are shooting video, proving that video should be on the dial), but obviously for the existing cameras a "video mode" button is the only option.
  15. Another small one for X-T10 (where the video button is programmable) and also X-T10 IF they make it programmable (which they obviously should, good point Marc G.): Add option to disable the delay on the "video" (red dot) function button or just remove it entirely. Makes the button very frustrating to use and nearly useless because so often I either don't hold it long enough or hold it too long and get into the "reprogram this function button" menu.
  16. Just putting this out there so I don't feel so alone. Anyone else find the aperture ring on the 16mm f/1.4 way too loose for practicality? Half the time when I go to take my first shot I miss it because the lens got accidentally moved to f/16 and I need to push it back to "A". Makes me want to just leave it on f/1.4 all the time so at least when it moves it doesn't make my shot impossible, but that's not a good solution either. The same thing happens on my 35mm f/1.4, but somehow not nearly as often, maybe it's just because the 16mm is so big that the ring brushes up on more stuff, but it's starting to drive me crazy. I've been fantasizing about putting a rubber band on it just to slow things down, but then it would be hard to see what aperture it was at. I wish that if nothing else the "A" position on Fuji lenses was a harder click then the rest so I could depend on it. Switching to f/16 when I'm expecting an auto-exposure of f/1.4 is a real drag.
  17. I can already do this on my X-T10, just push the "Disp/Back" button while you have the camera up to your eye. The EVF and LCD store the setting separately, so you can have exactly what you want (complex on LCD, simple on EVF). I found it confusing at first because I expected them to share the setting, and didn't think to push the button while using the EVF. Did I just upgrade your firmware?
  18. Fascinating! I'll have to keep this in mind next time it comes up. Of course the other option: Get nicer lighting! Obviously not always a choice but in a room like your example you could probably get away with blasting a flash on the presumably-white walls and you'd get a much better look all around.
  19. Make Q button always work, even when moving a focus point or in focus zoom modes where Q button is currently ignored (i.e. you have to push the shutter to exit those modes before you can do anything!). Function buttons should also work when in the focus-point-selection and focus-zoom modes, where they are currently ignored. Overall: All buttons should work in all modes unless something horrible happens from doing so. The dials work regardless of mode for obvious reasons, but why shouldn't the buttons work the same way. Just exit the mode I'm in (focus-zoom/focus-point-selection) and take me where the button implies. This would significantly lower the number of buttons we have to press to change settings and would make switching to the elaborate new AF modes a lot less onerous.
  20. Improve Focus Zoom/Focus Aid behavior! When zoomed-in (AF or MF) the up/down/left/right buttons should move the focus point! Right now they do nothing and it would be SO USEFUL Allow use of focus peaking in AF mode (you can get it now by enabling AF+MF then twisting the focus ring, but I'd like to be able to turn it on constantly when I want, holding down the command dial in MF changes the default focus aid mode, why not let it do the same in AF?)
  21. FWIW: I'm assuming these updates will come to the X-T10 too. Fuji don't start messing with us so early!
  22. Make all buttons into configurable function buttons unless it's insane that someone would want it. Obvious: AF-L, AE-L, Trash Controversial: View mode (i.e. make "view mode" an option for function buttons and let us skip it/remap it elsewhere) Related: Make "Auto" switch on X-T10 configurable for other kinds of on/off auto functions than the overwhelming SR Auto feature it has now. I.e. Enable/Disable Face Detection, Zone Focus. Would be great to also have it work for things like ES/MS, Silent mode, Auto-Aperture on XC lenses.
  23. VITAL! It takes forever as-is and makes me not want to use it, certainly not while someone is with me waiting for me to finish :S EVEN MORE IMPORTANT: Make it so I don't have to re-connect the entire phone-wifi+camerawifi+app-connection every time I change functions in the app! Currently every time you exit a mode like "Remove Control" or "Browse Camera" it disconnects completely and forces you to go through the whole process again: TERRIBLE! It should keep you "logged in" as long as you are using the app and let you go back and forth, especially since you need to switch back and forth to review the shots you've taken (and can't do it on the camera either). Digging deeper, I've discovered the app locks in various settings when you connect it to your phone, most notably the P/A/S/M mode it determines based on the dials that are set on your camera. If the camera is in T mode on the shutter dial then you can control the shutter speed up to 30s, which is vital for night photography, but if you forget to do it before you connect you have to disconnect, set the camera to T, then completely connect again. This is a really bad user experience, and the app should instead let you switch between PASM modes and/or just let you adjust any setting (ss/fstop/iso) without ever having to disconnect+reconnect. That said, just fixing the disconnect+reconnect problem would be a good start.
  24. I imagine you're referring to the "high performance mode" which I do have enabled. For anyone curious to test my experience that the X-T10 can have an annoying long lag when first turned on I've figured out steps to reproduce it consistently: * Turn off the camera * Take out the battery * Put battery back in * Turn on camera For me this consistently results in a period of 4-6 seconds (did some quick, unscientific timing with a stopwatch) where the eye sensor and playback button are unresponsive while the date shows on the screen, then the date dissappears and everything works. If you then turn the camera off an on again, even if you leave it off for a few minutes, it doesn't happen: the camera boots immediately and all buttons work properly. It's only after the battery is removed or some unclear amount of time passes and it "forgets" its state or something. Not a huge deal since it just means you need to power cycle the camera before your shoot starts, but it does affect me a lot. I often turn the camera on to look at pictures and want to immediately push the playback button, but have to wait which is annoying. If I take out my camera for a quick picture of something waiting an extra 5s can be really distracting for me and my subject.
  25. There is definitely some better equipment in the X-T1 that affects the buffer size, so if it's not the "processor" then whatever it is IMHO it affects the whole camera at startup. FWIW the behavior is really inconsistent for me, and usually only affects a cold boot up. If I turn the camera off, then on again right away there's no "lag" period. But when I pick it up for the first time that day, turn it on, then hold it to my eye I am greeted with shocking darkness, look back down at the LCD, see the date, then the date dissappears and holding it up to my eye does what I expect. It seems that taking a shot during this period DOES work, but not the playback button or eye sensor. Of course this could be a software bug rather than hardware limitation. My X-E1 doesn't have anything like this problem which is interesting, though not conclusive since it also has a lot less OS to load up than the X-T10.
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