dward

This gets confusing because of the similarity of the features and their names. I was not referring to the HDR on the drive setting. I was referring to the Dynamic Range setting, which has 4 values to choose between, DR100, DR200, DR400 and Auto. This can be found in your menu, IQ page. If you google “Fujifilm dynamic range setting” you can find a bunch of information on it. My practice is to leave it at DR100 (which is basically off) if I intend to post process in Capture One. Once you understand how it works, it is useful if you intend to shoot JPEG right out of the camera. Hope that helps, Dave

If your raw files are appearing underexposed it is possible you have a dynamic range setting of 200 or 400. This will under expose the image by 1 or 2 stops to protect highlights. The in camera jpeg engine boosts the shadows and mid tones to proper exposure levels, giving you a “proper” exposure for your jpeg. This can trick up a raw processor like Capture One (I don’t recall it automatically boosting the shadows / mid tones for files with the DR settings).

The 50/f2 is excellent

Glad that helped, reading your post I realized I called it HDR vs Dynamic Range which I guess is the correct terminology. Been a while since I’ve used it.

I think you are using the HDR setting for your JPEG output, especially since this diminishes at lower ISO values. HDR usage requires a higher ISO value to be set (640). The camera exposes at a lower value (160) to protect highlights, and the camera’s JPEG process then boosts the lower mid tones and shadows to the “higher” ISO value set (640). Thus you end up with a JPEG with good highlights and shadows. (In this example an HDR 400 setting is modeled). The RAW file would not be affected by the JPEG process, so it would display in a RAW program as the ISO 160 image (i.e. underexposed by two stops). Still useful as your highlights are protected and you can recover the shadows and mid tones as you like in your RAW processing program. I haven’t used the HDR setting in a long time so I can’t recall if the JPEG preview included with the RAW includes the “boost” or not (suspect it does). Hope that helps, Dave

I don’t have it as I went for the literal bag of primes (16, 23, 35 & 50) but the XF 16-55 f2.8 is well regarded as a “bagful of primes”. 16mm is a 24mm equivalent on the wide end and 55mm is close to an 85mm equivalent. F2.8 gives a good level subject separation/bokeh. Not small or light but plenty of folks sing it’s praises. Dave

Looks familiar, taken in the Smoky Mountains? Nice series of shots.

Plus adds more of whatever you are adjusting and minus reduces whatever you are adjusting. + shadows adds deeper shadows, + highlights adds brighter highlights - shadows lightens shadows, - highlights darkens highlights David

There is a specific RAW extension for .RAF files. If you go to the windows store it is available (search for .RAF). Sorry for the fuzzy details, I did this ~2 years ago so my memory is “fuzzy” - its there and just takes a second to update. best of luck, David

If by “see” you mean “view” in windows, there are files that allow windows to view raw files that you need to install. Since Fuji raw files have a RAF extension google “windows 10 RAF files” and you should be able to find the files to install. if you literally can’t see the files in windows explorer I am not certain what to do, hopefully someone else will come along to help. David

The image of the screen shows M for manual, lower left next to the movie camera (movie mode). The half circle facing up represents your front dial and the half circle facing down represents your rear dial and they are set to SS and ISO respectively. You can reverse that in the menu under camera settings. David

Olaf is correct , it is in the camera menu in the wireless settings.

I can’t really say if they are worth looking into verse the 10-24 zoom. Horses for courses (my way of skipping the primes vs zoom debate). I like the idea of primes so I have the primes. I can say that I have a set of lenses that allow me to take the photographs I want to take, at a level of quality that satisfies me. My use cases are casual travel and family events or put another way, vacations and holidays. I know that I did not directly answer your question but hopefully I addressed your interest. David

To echo the above, when I had this scenario, I downloaded the free C1 program and X-Raw studio. I then shot a dozen pictures representing my common scenarios (portrait, landscape, family candids, etc). I then processed in X-Raw to my liking and in C1 Express and compared the results. I really liked being able to “store” recipes (as found on the Fuji X Weekly website) in the X-Raw program and to have those be 1:1 with the potential “in camera” settings. This helped a lot in comparing the various recipes and arriving at a handful of “looks” I liked which I could the load into my camera. What I appreciated about C1 program was the possibilities for images after capture. I found recipe selection, while neat, an unnecessary decision while shooting. Instead, with C1, my goal became to capture the best data associated with the image and post process to the look I wanted for that particular image (or set of images). As such, I developed my own style or set of styles for landscapes, portraits, etc. I hope that makes sense and helps, David PS - Capture One Express vs Capture One Pro (for Fuji). The free version is excellent but it is a gateway drug. C1 has excellent tutorials available to accelerate your knowledge. As you learn more about the possibilities, the ability to do local edits via layers, etc. you will soon have your wallet out…

Herco, as always, gave you an an excellent breakdown. As for your leaning towards an X-T2, that is what I have, bought new. I have felt no limitations that would make me want to upgrade to later models. When I was looking, the write ups described the X-T2 as a good workhorse and that is what I have found it to be. When I read your post, I immediately thought of the 10-24 as the near equivalent of your Canon lens. I don’t have it (as I use the small prime collection) but I have never seen or heard a substantive complaint on that lens. Go buy them and enjoy, David

I read this somewhere once and it made sense to me. Can’t remember the source but the article was addressing this question of could a sensor out resolve a lens (or vice versa). The author had an equation which I’ll reproduce below: Image resolution = (sensor resolution) x (lens resolution) Basically, the author was saying if you improve either of the items on the right side of the equation, you improve the item on the left side of the equation. David

Scroll through the menu and find “pre-focus” and turn it off. It causes the behavior you describe. In short, prefocus causes the lens to continually hunt for focus in anticipation of you pressing the shutter. David

Custom white balance setting? Even if on auto someone could have given it a custom tint. Only thing I could think of. David

The settings are determined by the profile settings (ie recipe) and remain until they are changed (either individually or by selecting a different custom profile). As you have discovered, just changing the film simulation won’t change the individual settings. I keep one of my custom profiles “generic” with zero for highlights, shadows, Auto WB, etc. This lets me “undo” the recipe settings. Since I mainly shoot RAW and post process in Capture One, this is pretty much my default profile. David

I have an X-T2 and wear glasses. Zero issues with the EVF, imagine the T3 would be marginally improved, I don’t know on S10, sorry. One additional piece of information, the EVF has two settings: one where the image has a small border with the settings data displayed outside of the image and one with a larger image with settings displayed on the image. I find the former less distracting though it may also minimize the issue with glasses. David

I don’t have my camera with me to confirm but I recall the Auto ISO settings remain available along with the individual ISO values. I think you need to scroll past the Auto ISO settings. Once you get past the three Auto ISO settings you should see the individual settings. It is also possible you need to press the dial to switch from aperture control to ISO. Just to be sure, make sure your exposure compensation is set to zero, just to remove that as a variable. Finally, I think you meant to say your ISO was set to Command? Hope this helps, David

1) read the manual 2) YouTube tutorials - the guy who does “pal2tech” has a lot of them that cover basic settings.

Your exposure indicator on the left side of the screen shows several stops underexposed. If you’re using a manual exposure try to adjust your settings. It is also possible that you have accidentally adjusted the exposure compensation dial and have it set to under expose by a few stops. I noticed it is under the cage and could have been adjusted without you realizing it. Hope this helps, David

Yes. Capture One Pro for Fuji adds a lot of functionality verse the Express version specifically around local adjustments and layers. I reserve Affinity for things C1 can’t do like panorama stitching and focus bracketing. For those items, I still process the RAW in C1, then export as TIFFs for blending in Affinity. If you are unsure it is worth it for your anticipated use, watch some of the tutorials that C1 has on their website. That should help you evaluate the potential benefits. David

Hazarding a guess to help… check your Auto ISO settings. You could see 640 in two places. Your base ISO could be set to 640 which could cause the behavior you are seeing. Alternatively, if your max is set to 640, then your camera will show the maximum ISO (640) until you half press the shutter when it will calculate the actual exposure (and show the actual ISO in use). Hope that helps, David