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dward

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Everything posted by dward

  1. Looks familiar, taken in the Smoky Mountains? Nice series of shots.
  2. Plus adds more of whatever you are adjusting and minus reduces whatever you are adjusting. + shadows adds deeper shadows, + highlights adds brighter highlights - shadows lightens shadows, - highlights darkens highlights David
  3. There is a specific RAW extension for .RAF files. If you go to the windows store it is available (search for .RAF). Sorry for the fuzzy details, I did this ~2 years ago so my memory is “fuzzy” - its there and just takes a second to update. best of luck, David
  4. If by “see” you mean “view” in windows, there are files that allow windows to view raw files that you need to install. Since Fuji raw files have a RAF extension google “windows 10 RAF files” and you should be able to find the files to install. if you literally can’t see the files in windows explorer I am not certain what to do, hopefully someone else will come along to help. David
  5. The image of the screen shows M for manual, lower left next to the movie camera (movie mode). The half circle facing up represents your front dial and the half circle facing down represents your rear dial and they are set to SS and ISO respectively. You can reverse that in the menu under camera settings. David
  6. I can’t really say if they are worth looking into verse the 10-24 zoom. Horses for courses (my way of skipping the primes vs zoom debate). I like the idea of primes so I have the primes. I can say that I have a set of lenses that allow me to take the photographs I want to take, at a level of quality that satisfies me. My use cases are casual travel and family events or put another way, vacations and holidays. I know that I did not directly answer your question but hopefully I addressed your interest. David
  7. To echo the above, when I had this scenario, I downloaded the free C1 program and X-Raw studio. I then shot a dozen pictures representing my common scenarios (portrait, landscape, family candids, etc). I then processed in X-Raw to my liking and in C1 Express and compared the results. I really liked being able to “store” recipes (as found on the Fuji X Weekly website) in the X-Raw program and to have those be 1:1 with the potential “in camera” settings. This helped a lot in comparing the various recipes and arriving at a handful of “looks” I liked which I could the load into my camera. What I appreciated about C1 program was the possibilities for images after capture. I found recipe selection, while neat, an unnecessary decision while shooting. Instead, with C1, my goal became to capture the best data associated with the image and post process to the look I wanted for that particular image (or set of images). As such, I developed my own style or set of styles for landscapes, portraits, etc. I hope that makes sense and helps, David PS - Capture One Express vs Capture One Pro (for Fuji). The free version is excellent but it is a gateway drug. C1 has excellent tutorials available to accelerate your knowledge. As you learn more about the possibilities, the ability to do local edits via layers, etc. you will soon have your wallet out…
  8. Herco, as always, gave you an an excellent breakdown. As for your leaning towards an X-T2, that is what I have, bought new. I have felt no limitations that would make me want to upgrade to later models. When I was looking, the write ups described the X-T2 as a good workhorse and that is what I have found it to be. When I read your post, I immediately thought of the 10-24 as the near equivalent of your Canon lens. I don’t have it (as I use the small prime collection) but I have never seen or heard a substantive complaint on that lens. Go buy them and enjoy, David
  9. I read this somewhere once and it made sense to me. Can’t remember the source but the article was addressing this question of could a sensor out resolve a lens (or vice versa). The author had an equation which I’ll reproduce below: Image resolution = (sensor resolution) x (lens resolution) Basically, the author was saying if you improve either of the items on the right side of the equation, you improve the item on the left side of the equation. David
  10. Scroll through the menu and find “pre-focus” and turn it off. It causes the behavior you describe. In short, prefocus causes the lens to continually hunt for focus in anticipation of you pressing the shutter. David
  11. Custom white balance setting? Even if on auto someone could have given it a custom tint. Only thing I could think of. David
  12. The settings are determined by the profile settings (ie recipe) and remain until they are changed (either individually or by selecting a different custom profile). As you have discovered, just changing the film simulation won’t change the individual settings. I keep one of my custom profiles “generic” with zero for highlights, shadows, Auto WB, etc. This lets me “undo” the recipe settings. Since I mainly shoot RAW and post process in Capture One, this is pretty much my default profile. David
  13. I have an X-T2 and wear glasses. Zero issues with the EVF, imagine the T3 would be marginally improved, I don’t know on S10, sorry. One additional piece of information, the EVF has two settings: one where the image has a small border with the settings data displayed outside of the image and one with a larger image with settings displayed on the image. I find the former less distracting though it may also minimize the issue with glasses. David
  14. I don’t have my camera with me to confirm but I recall the Auto ISO settings remain available along with the individual ISO values. I think you need to scroll past the Auto ISO settings. Once you get past the three Auto ISO settings you should see the individual settings. It is also possible you need to press the dial to switch from aperture control to ISO. Just to be sure, make sure your exposure compensation is set to zero, just to remove that as a variable. Finally, I think you meant to say your ISO was set to Command? Hope this helps, David
  15. 1) read the manual 2) YouTube tutorials - the guy who does “pal2tech” has a lot of them that cover basic settings.
  16. Your exposure indicator on the left side of the screen shows several stops underexposed. If you’re using a manual exposure try to adjust your settings. It is also possible that you have accidentally adjusted the exposure compensation dial and have it set to under expose by a few stops. I noticed it is under the cage and could have been adjusted without you realizing it. Hope this helps, David
  17. Yes. Capture One Pro for Fuji adds a lot of functionality verse the Express version specifically around local adjustments and layers. I reserve Affinity for things C1 can’t do like panorama stitching and focus bracketing. For those items, I still process the RAW in C1, then export as TIFFs for blending in Affinity. If you are unsure it is worth it for your anticipated use, watch some of the tutorials that C1 has on their website. That should help you evaluate the potential benefits. David
  18. Hazarding a guess to help… check your Auto ISO settings. You could see 640 in two places. Your base ISO could be set to 640 which could cause the behavior you are seeing. Alternatively, if your max is set to 640, then your camera will show the maximum ISO (640) until you half press the shutter when it will calculate the actual exposure (and show the actual ISO in use). Hope that helps, David
  19. dward

    New to Fuji

    I do not have an X-S10 so this may be off, however on an X-T2 you can depress the front dial and toggle between aperture control and exposure compensation. You might try and see if that is still the case on the X-S10. David
  20. Just a thought for you. Your images look like you are in manual mode, if so the camera isn’t under exposing, you are. My suggestion would be to go into Auto Aperture (iso to A and shutter speed to A, aperture to something neutral like 5.6). I would also select matrix metering. Once setup like this, see what iso and shutter speed the camera selects for what it believes is the proper exposure. You can then adjust your aperture and observe the offset to iso and shutter speed the camera makes. To understand how your camera is behaving you will want to spend a minute with the manual reading up on Auto ISO. There are also numerous resources online that will explain how that function works. Once you understand how Auto ISO works than you can dial in your preferences to influence how it adjusts. From here the natural follow up is to then change metering methods (Fuji calls it photometry) and also mess around with the exposure compensation dial and see how they influence the exposure. Spend a half hour or so messing with these items and you will have a pretty good baseline of how to set your camera for a proper exposure. Hope that helps, David
  21. Check your dynamic range setting. If you have DR200 set, it will force your ISO up to 400 (creating space for the dynamic range process to work). Change your dynamic range setting to DR100 and see if auto ISO uses the lower ISO value. Hope that helps, David
  22. Late comment but I think the USB connection could impact this (USB 2 being slower than USB 3 etc.). I also believe the length of the USB cable would impact (I recall there being a length limit advised somewhere in the manual). Sorry not a technology guru but maybe this helps.
  23. I am not an Adobe user but I am well read on this topic and have spent considerable time in Capture One exploring this area in the past. Fuji gives you a lot of variables you can adjust for the JPEG, highlights, shadows, saturation, sharpening, dynamic range, WB shift, etc. The raw file will not carry those settings into your RAW editor, though the RAW file will have a “preview” embedded in it. It is my understanding that the previews do carry the affects of those settings. These previews are not used in the RAW editors as the RAW editors generate their own preview files. My guess would also be that Photomechanic is showing the embedded preview file (which is why, in part, it is so fast). Try out having all those variables set to zero and see how the files compare. Dynamic Range would need to be set to 100. There has been a lot of articles on the web comparing the Fuji profiles to the Adobe and Capture One renditions with side by side images. They’ve looked close, not a perfect match. Subtle differences exist, not enough to account for the difference in your images above. By the way, Acros in camera also models grain into the image which I understand doesn’t happen automatically when you select the Acros simulation in Adobe or Capture One (though you can add it separately). Hope this helps you out, David
  24. Let me rephrase, if you press the front wheel, it should return to exposure compensation (+/-). This should return the aperture to auto. If that doesn’t work, you need to go into your settings (wrench, dials settings, command dial) and set it to auto. Disclosure, I never use the front wheel to set aperture and I don’t have my manual with me so I am not sure how you got to the settings you are on. I did confirm on my X-T2 that command dial on auto, iso, shutter speed and aperture all on A functions as Program AE. Hope this helps, Dave
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