dward

I do not have an X-S10 so this may be off, however on an X-T2 you can depress the front dial and toggle between aperture control and exposure compensation. You might try and see if that is still the case on the X-S10. David

Just a thought for you. Your images look like you are in manual mode, if so the camera isn’t under exposing, you are. My suggestion would be to go into Auto Aperture (iso to A and shutter speed to A, aperture to something neutral like 5.6). I would also select matrix metering. Once setup like this, see what iso and shutter speed the camera selects for what it believes is the proper exposure. You can then adjust your aperture and observe the offset to iso and shutter speed the camera makes. To understand how your camera is behaving you will want to spend a minute with the manual reading up on Auto ISO. There are also numerous resources online that will explain how that function works. Once you understand how Auto ISO works than you can dial in your preferences to influence how it adjusts. From here the natural follow up is to then change metering methods (Fuji calls it photometry) and also mess around with the exposure compensation dial and see how they influence the exposure. Spend a half hour or so messing with these items and you will have a pretty good baseline of how to set your camera for a proper exposure. Hope that helps, David

Check your dynamic range setting. If you have DR200 set, it will force your ISO up to 400 (creating space for the dynamic range process to work). Change your dynamic range setting to DR100 and see if auto ISO uses the lower ISO value. Hope that helps, David

Late comment but I think the USB connection could impact this (USB 2 being slower than USB 3 etc.). I also believe the length of the USB cable would impact (I recall there being a length limit advised somewhere in the manual). Sorry not a technology guru but maybe this helps.

I am not an Adobe user but I am well read on this topic and have spent considerable time in Capture One exploring this area in the past. Fuji gives you a lot of variables you can adjust for the JPEG, highlights, shadows, saturation, sharpening, dynamic range, WB shift, etc. The raw file will not carry those settings into your RAW editor, though the RAW file will have a “preview” embedded in it. It is my understanding that the previews do carry the affects of those settings. These previews are not used in the RAW editors as the RAW editors generate their own preview files. My guess would also be that Photomechanic is showing the embedded preview file (which is why, in part, it is so fast). Try out having all those variables set to zero and see how the files compare. Dynamic Range would need to be set to 100. There has been a lot of articles on the web comparing the Fuji profiles to the Adobe and Capture One renditions with side by side images. They’ve looked close, not a perfect match. Subtle differences exist, not enough to account for the difference in your images above. By the way, Acros in camera also models grain into the image which I understand doesn’t happen automatically when you select the Acros simulation in Adobe or Capture One (though you can add it separately). Hope this helps you out, David

Let me rephrase, if you press the front wheel, it should return to exposure compensation (+/-). This should return the aperture to auto. If that doesn’t work, you need to go into your settings (wrench, dials settings, command dial) and set it to auto. Disclosure, I never use the front wheel to set aperture and I don’t have my manual with me so I am not sure how you got to the settings you are on. I did confirm on my X-T2 that command dial on auto, iso, shutter speed and aperture all on A functions as Program AE. Hope this helps, Dave

Can you not put the command wheel setting to A?

Probably inadequate but I just use my windows file structure. I use the pictures folder and have it synced to OneDrive for cloud storage. Inside the pictures folder, I set up a folders by year and then a level down a folder with whatever description for the folder makes sense (baby shower, Asheville trip, etc). I run them all through C1 so they are cataloged by it also. Like I started with, probably inadequate but it actually works out fine for me. Dave

Agreed, I was hoping the “unless you like Canon’s JPEG” caveat would address the individual preferences.

If the OP is monitoring the thread - Which “picture style” did you use on your Canon if you were shooting JPEG? Standard, portrait, landscape, neutral, faithful or monochrome? With a little research you can figure out that Provia, ProNeg H or std and Velvia are the equivalent of the first three and then if you adjust highlights and shadows by minus 2 you get faithful, add in color by minus 2 and you get neutral... Monochrome = Monochrome. Be forewarned, Fuji’s JPEG are typically considered better than Canon’s JPEG... unless you like Canon’s JPEG better, but then why use Fuji... If you shoot RAW and use Capture One and you’re really wanting to minimize the Fuji influence on the image, have the import apply the Linear Response curve to the image and you will get a nice flat desaturated image, just like the camera saw the “real” scene. You will have a lot of extra post processing to do to adjust the image to how you remember the “real” scene. I suspect Adobe has an equivalent to linear response but as I have never used it I can’t say what it is. By the way, I would not recommend this as it’s just extra work. If you are wanting the image in your viewfinder to be an unaltered representation of the scene, don’t use a camera with an Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) use one with an Optical Viewfinder (OVF). I hope this helps, Dave

Sorry for the delay, just saw this message. I use B+W (XS-Pro MRC Nano for the ND and the Kaeseman CPL). I can’t say they are better than other brands, just that they are the ones I use. I have been satisfied with them. David

I have bought in the polarizer, 6 stop, 3 stop and then 10 stop order. Several sources (print/internet) recommended this order. I thought it over and it seemed to make sense (to me). David

I recall that the grip enhances some of the boost mode features, maybe the highest of frame rates on continuous high (CH) goes up from 8 to 11 FPS. Otherwise without the grip you still get the faster AF and as you noticed the higher EVF refresh rate.

You have long exposure noise reduction on. After taking a long exposure it will take a second image without raising the shutter. This in theory “maps” noisy pixels. The camera then uses this map to “fix” the pixels in the original image. The owner’s manual has a better explanation but hopefully my explanation helps. you can turn off in the menu, though I am not sure you should. David

I would return it.

Have you tried pixel mapping? My understanding is this will eliminate hot or stuck pixels and replace them with nearby pixels, effectively blending out the odd ones. Worth a review in your manual or a google. I just did a quick search and didn’t see any negative posts regarding this process. Hope this is helpful, David

Sort of... film simulations are called “curves” in C1. Going from memory you can go to the color tab and you will see the “curve” showing as “auto” which is the film simulation you used (which is why they are showing as black and white). Once your review this list you will see three C1 choices (extra shadow, high contrast and film standard) and then the Fujifilm film simulations. The last item on the list is Linear Response and this is what you’re looking for, it is basically “no simulation” and rather flat. To upload the raw file with no film simulation applied you could do one of two things: 1) Make a preset which applies linear response, then when you import your raw files you can apply this preset to all files being imported. I do this with a default clarity and structure setting and once set up it just happens automatically. 2) You can import the files as they were shot and then once imported select all the files you imported, turn on the “edit all selected” button and change the curve to linear response. This will change all of the files at once. With that said, I’d not necessarily recommend defaulting every file to Linear Response. Instead I’d pick a curve to use as a starting point (C1’s Film Standard or Fujifilm’s Provia) and make it your default on import . Hope that helps, not in front of the computer so going from memory. David

Sorry to hear that your camera is not supported. I’ve only used C1 so I can’t speak to other programs. I do like the standard C1 curves and use them often.

Congratulations on your new camera. Right beneath the ICC profile you will see “curve”. It will say auto, pull that down and you will see all of the film simulations listed. Auto is the default and will be the simulation you were using when you took the picture (regardless of which you used). A bit of an odd way of doing it but it makes sense once you learn how C1 uses auto. You open the list and then you can change the simulation used as you want. You will notice that there is a momentary “flicker” as the image loads with your original simulation and then refreshes with the one you changed it to. When you change from “auto” to the simulation you used originally there will not be a flicker. Hope that makes (or think it will once you do it a time or two). Dave

I appreciate your input. Dave

Thanks for the feedback.

Appreciate the quick response, if I may, one more question. You referenced it less sharp wide open. How was it stopped down? It would be used for landscapes but on a casual basis. Sort of trying to talk myself down from the extra $500 of the 14... Agreed on the 14 - very few reviews - I spent the weekend perusing Flickr and it got to the point where I knew a picture was taken with the 14 (at some point I also realized the few folks using the 14 had a higher level of skill so sort of compounding the quality of the lens). I also developed an appreciation of the 10-24 f4.

How is the 16/2.8? I am debating this lens or the 14 f2.8. The 14 doesn’t seem to get a lot of talk but looks to be a fantastic lens, at a premium of course. The 16 has the lower cost going for it & weather sealing. I already have the 23, 35 and 50 so it seems I should just complete the set... but the 14 just seems so nice.

I would encourage you to consider the 50 f2. I think the 23/50 combination makes a nice pairing. The 50 f2 is weather resistant, focuses fast and takes nice portraits and detail shots. Images from one to the other would share a common “look” IQ wise. You did say you wanted the 1.2 or 1.4 and if you have your heart set on the faster 1.4/1.2, the 56 would give you a 23/56 pairing, equivalent of a classic 35/85 combination. Hard to beat for your stated purposes. I do have the 23, 35 and 50 f2 and I tend to use my 35 as a stand-alone lens for when I don’t want to bother with or worry about changing out lenses. Best of luck with your decision, Dave