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dward

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dward last won the day on August 15 2021

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  1. This gets confusing because of the similarity of the features and their names. I was not referring to the HDR on the drive setting. I was referring to the Dynamic Range setting, which has 4 values to choose between, DR100, DR200, DR400 and Auto. This can be found in your menu, IQ page. If you google “Fujifilm dynamic range setting” you can find a bunch of information on it. My practice is to leave it at DR100 (which is basically off) if I intend to post process in Capture One. Once you understand how it works, it is useful if you intend to shoot JPEG right out of the camera. Hope that helps, Dave
  2. If your raw files are appearing underexposed it is possible you have a dynamic range setting of 200 or 400. This will under expose the image by 1 or 2 stops to protect highlights. The in camera jpeg engine boosts the shadows and mid tones to proper exposure levels, giving you a “proper” exposure for your jpeg. This can trick up a raw processor like Capture One (I don’t recall it automatically boosting the shadows / mid tones for files with the DR settings).
  3. Glad that helped, reading your post I realized I called it HDR vs Dynamic Range which I guess is the correct terminology. Been a while since I’ve used it.
  4. I think you are using the HDR setting for your JPEG output, especially since this diminishes at lower ISO values. HDR usage requires a higher ISO value to be set (640). The camera exposes at a lower value (160) to protect highlights, and the camera’s JPEG process then boosts the lower mid tones and shadows to the “higher” ISO value set (640). Thus you end up with a JPEG with good highlights and shadows. (In this example an HDR 400 setting is modeled). The RAW file would not be affected by the JPEG process, so it would display in a RAW program as the ISO 160 image (i.e. underexposed by two stops). Still useful as your highlights are protected and you can recover the shadows and mid tones as you like in your RAW processing program. I haven’t used the HDR setting in a long time so I can’t recall if the JPEG preview included with the RAW includes the “boost” or not (suspect it does). Hope that helps, Dave
  5. I don’t have it as I went for the literal bag of primes (16, 23, 35 & 50) but the XF 16-55 f2.8 is well regarded as a “bagful of primes”. 16mm is a 24mm equivalent on the wide end and 55mm is close to an 85mm equivalent. F2.8 gives a good level subject separation/bokeh. Not small or light but plenty of folks sing it’s praises. Dave
  6. Looks familiar, taken in the Smoky Mountains? Nice series of shots.
  7. Plus adds more of whatever you are adjusting and minus reduces whatever you are adjusting. + shadows adds deeper shadows, + highlights adds brighter highlights - shadows lightens shadows, - highlights darkens highlights David
  8. There is a specific RAW extension for .RAF files. If you go to the windows store it is available (search for .RAF). Sorry for the fuzzy details, I did this ~2 years ago so my memory is “fuzzy” - its there and just takes a second to update. best of luck, David
  9. If by “see” you mean “view” in windows, there are files that allow windows to view raw files that you need to install. Since Fuji raw files have a RAF extension google “windows 10 RAF files” and you should be able to find the files to install. if you literally can’t see the files in windows explorer I am not certain what to do, hopefully someone else will come along to help. David
  10. The image of the screen shows M for manual, lower left next to the movie camera (movie mode). The half circle facing up represents your front dial and the half circle facing down represents your rear dial and they are set to SS and ISO respectively. You can reverse that in the menu under camera settings. David
  11. I can’t really say if they are worth looking into verse the 10-24 zoom. Horses for courses (my way of skipping the primes vs zoom debate). I like the idea of primes so I have the primes. I can say that I have a set of lenses that allow me to take the photographs I want to take, at a level of quality that satisfies me. My use cases are casual travel and family events or put another way, vacations and holidays. I know that I did not directly answer your question but hopefully I addressed your interest. David
  12. To echo the above, when I had this scenario, I downloaded the free C1 program and X-Raw studio. I then shot a dozen pictures representing my common scenarios (portrait, landscape, family candids, etc). I then processed in X-Raw to my liking and in C1 Express and compared the results. I really liked being able to “store” recipes (as found on the Fuji X Weekly website) in the X-Raw program and to have those be 1:1 with the potential “in camera” settings. This helped a lot in comparing the various recipes and arriving at a handful of “looks” I liked which I could the load into my camera. What I appreciated about C1 program was the possibilities for images after capture. I found recipe selection, while neat, an unnecessary decision while shooting. Instead, with C1, my goal became to capture the best data associated with the image and post process to the look I wanted for that particular image (or set of images). As such, I developed my own style or set of styles for landscapes, portraits, etc. I hope that makes sense and helps, David PS - Capture One Express vs Capture One Pro (for Fuji). The free version is excellent but it is a gateway drug. C1 has excellent tutorials available to accelerate your knowledge. As you learn more about the possibilities, the ability to do local edits via layers, etc. you will soon have your wallet out…
  13. Herco, as always, gave you an an excellent breakdown. As for your leaning towards an X-T2, that is what I have, bought new. I have felt no limitations that would make me want to upgrade to later models. When I was looking, the write ups described the X-T2 as a good workhorse and that is what I have found it to be. When I read your post, I immediately thought of the 10-24 as the near equivalent of your Canon lens. I don’t have it (as I use the small prime collection) but I have never seen or heard a substantive complaint on that lens. Go buy them and enjoy, David
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