Herco

Well put, Jerryy. In fact the 14mm and the 18-55 are a great combo in terms of focal length but also they share the same filter size. That way you can work with one set of filters (POL, ND, Gradients...).

Welcome Matt. WR is often overrated. I've been using a non-WR lens for 6 years (XF23/f1.4) and it was one of my favorites. It was pretty beaten up and had endured some heavy rain showers, but it never gave an issue. At the same time my WR XF90/f2 gave up just after a few months and two drizzles. Now that can be coincidence, but generally with some "tender-love-care" also non-WR lenses can easily withstand some rain, sand and dust. Just don't leave it out unprotected in heavy rain or a desert sandstorm. For a camera it's a bit different, as the top plate with dials and the back with buttons is very vulnerable to water accumulating there. A camera is also more profoundly damaged by water. The XF18-55 might be an older lens with a shorter focal length, but from an image quality perspective I found it to be way better than the rather average 16-80. It's not to say that the 16-80 is bad, but the 18-55 is a step up in IQ. Esp. towards the edges and corners of the frame and with wider apertures. If you're gonna print big, you'll notice. As for the camera, the X-S10 might have the advantage of IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization), but when you pair the 18-55 with and X-T3 you get the Optic Image Stabilization (OIS) of the lens. It's not as good as IBIS but in practice you get 3 stops and with IBIS approx. 4 to 4.5 stops (specs are highly optimistic ;-). The main reason that I would prefer the X-T3 is the viewfinder. It's quite a bit bigger and brighter and with more resolution and less 'smearing' in low light. Esp. when you wear glasses the X-T3 EVF is much better compared to the X-S10 EVF. However, all this is based on the assumption that you shoot images. When you plan to do a lot of video, the X-S10 with the XF16-80 might be the better choice because of the IBIS. But I would certainly check out the EVF of the X-S10 before buying. Lastly, a trick I learned from a workshop student to turn a non-WR lens into a WR lens: buy an innertube for a fatboy bike or a small motorbike. Cut out a piece with approx. the length of your lens and pull it over the lens in case of bad weather. Just make sure that the tube is not too small or you won't be able to rotate the zoom ring. The aperture ring can be controlled from the camera. When you do that your only point of concern is the mount. When all of this sounds too cumbersome, there are very cheap plastic rain covers for incidental use available. These are far better in protection than any WR from any camera manufacturer.

Hi Luis, can you explain why the Rebel T7i doesn't work for you? What improvements would you like to see from your Fujifilm camera? Also, do you have equipment you'd like to keep using (flashes, tripods...)? What type of products are you shooting? This may determine the shooting distance and the best lens for the purpose.

A kind of 'poor mans M10' would certainly make sense. I can't imagine there are many video shooters amongst X-Pro users and certainly not who bought the camera specifically for video shooting. So getting rid of all the video features probably doesn't affect the target group. Fuji however, needs to really 'focus' on stills photographers and get the camera exactly right for them.

I have used the lens for a couple of months on an X-T2 and an X-H1. AF speed was like the 23/1.4 XF lens, but less noisy and slightly less hunting. Due to the longer macro range it could take a little bit more time from infinity to close-up, but once you're in that range its fine. Anyway, much faster than the Fuji 60/2.4. The guy who now uses the lens told me that it performs very similar on an X-Pro3 (compared to an X-H1). The X-Pro3 has a similar AF performance compared to the X-T3.

I'm not sure if I can follow... The X-T4 (as well as the X-S10) has IBIS. The X-T3 hasn't.

In my experience it's always best to update the firmware using an SD card. You might want to try that again. The Fuji app is imo horribly unreliable in maintaining connection with the camera. In fact, I removed the Fuji app from my phone altogether. I find it to be an insult to customers. I've also worked with the apps of other brands (Leica, Nikon, Sony and Panasonic) but the Fuji app is easily the worst of all. Fuji should really put some effort into that app...

Although the Touit-range is certainly not the best that Zeiss made over the years, the 50 macro is a very nice lens. To my knowledge the lens firmware hasn't been updated the past few years, so any improvement in AF comes from the camera. For stills the AF-C is adequate, but it's probably not the best video lens on a Fuji camera. Be aware that many tests you might read are likely done with the Sony mount version, so the AF performance is Sony and not Fuji-specific in these tests. I don't do underwater photography, so I can't tell the AF performance in that area.

Welcome. The X-Pro1 was also my intro to Fujifilm back in 2012. Next to the excellent tips section on this forum I can recommend the book that Rico Pfirstinger wrote an excellent book on the X-Pro1. You can buy and download it here: https://rockynook.com/shop/camera-manuals/fujifilm/mastering-the-fujifilm-x-pro-1/#

When considering the 55-200 also have a look at the 70-300. There's not much difference between f4.8 and f5.6 at the long end and the 70-300 is certainly a faster focusing lens. I'd buy the 55-200 only when it is a great second-hand deal. There's only €100 difference between the two lenses when purchased new. In that case I'd go for the 70-300, but that's just me... 😉 Best Fujifilm Telephoto Zoom Lens 2021 | Photography Blog

The push function on the rear-dials of the 'earlier' X cameras is quite prone to defects. I believe it was solved in the X-H1 and the X-T3 thereafter, but X-E3's have the earlier internal design. The push function could 'stick' in one function or between functions causing the rotate function not to work properly. If that happens, internal cleaning or replacing is the only option. Something that (most of) you can't do yourself.

Hi Milos, welcome. I'm too a Leica M user (M7 and M10-R) but I also use the X-Pro2. First, about the firmware updates. You can update straight to v5. Every firmware update contains the full firmware and not just the changed bits. As for the lens, Fuji has two zoom lenses that might work, but they are both a bit slower in terms of aperture. It's the 55-200 and the 70-300. Both have IOS (the X-Pro2 has not) so that is a benefit. Yet, I believe the 50-140 is the better choice for indoor sports even though the X-Pro2 isn't exactly fast in AF. Another option might be the long prime lenses. There are two in this category (I won't mention the 200mm): the 80mm macro is very sharp (allows for cropping) and has OIS but is is almost as expensive as the 50-140 and is not easily available as second-hand. The 90mm tele is one of Fuji's best lenses for portraits, is less expensive than the 80mm, but lacks OIS. It focuses very fast though. I loved that lens, but you need to learn to work with it esp. on an X-Pro2. The 50mm f2 is a very nice lens by the way and if the focal length works for you, you can crop by up to 30% (approx. 14-16MP) before quality becomes an issue. The OVF of the X-Pro line doesn't work well with lenses longer than 50mm and the EVF of the X-Pro1 and 2 is a TFT-type that doesn't work well in low light and fast action (indoor sports). It has a poor refresh rate and in 'smears' a bit when you move the camera fast. You can however, learn to work with it even though it's not ideal. As for third-party lenses, I'm not aware of a fast 'long zoom' for X-mount. Tamron announced some lenses for X-mount (so did Sigma) but not in this category as far as I know. Their variable zoom lenses very quickly go to f4.5 or f5.6 once you zoom in. Viltrox and others focus on shorter primes for X-mount.

Fuji claims that it is exactly the same EVF (Sony-made OLED), but to my recollection the refresh rate of the X-T3 is a bit higher. The main difference (re. the EVF) is the processor of both cameras. The X-T3 has a later generation processor that allows for higher refresh rates. Make sure both cameras are in 'boost' mode when you compare them. Also other features (like brightness and color setting) can cause difference in EVF experience as well as minor changes in the optics in front of the EVF. Fuji isn't specific about changes re. this. I can't compare anymore since I sold both cameras and switched. From that experience I can tell that the same EVFs on paper can make a great difference in practice. So, always check the EVF yourself before you buy a camera. Esp. when you wear glasses or need to change the diopter.

You're welcome. I still use my X-Pro2 for personal work every now and then, but I replaced the X-H1 (and the rest of the Fuji-kit) with a Z7II-based kit and I'm very satisfied with that move.

I've used the X-H1 for a while for my professional work, but there were too many bugs that Fujifilm never really solved in firmware. In terms of build quality it is a great camera though. The X-Pro2 has a micro-USB2.0 connector and the X-H1 has a micro-USB3.0 connector. These 3.0 ports are more discerning when it comes to the right cable. In case you work with an adapter try a native cable that doesn't need an adapter (also on the mac-side) and isn't too long (no more that 3m). The X-H1 is esp. sensitive to the capacity of the cable and whether it is shielded. In the end I got it working with Capture One, but I had to buy a new 3m Tethertools cable as the 4.6m was apparently too long. Now 3m is too short for me, so this on top of some other issues was for me the reason to switch to another camera. Tethertools has also a solution to boost the capacity (Tetherboost) of a USB3.0 connection, but I never tried that. I'm now on USB-C on both ends, so that solves the issue.

Hi, back when I was working with different Fujifilm cameras, I created these cheat sheets to remember the assignment of function buttons, custom profiles and My Menu. I printed these on 10x15cm photo paper and kept them in my bag. Maybe they're of use to you now. I can't find the one I had for the X100F, but this X-Pro2 one comes very close. Some fn-buttons may not be available on the X100F, but other than that, it is similar. x-pro2 settings.docx

Hi, any type of filter will do as long as it is not composed of two parts (like a POL or a variable ND filter) where you could have a possible leak. You can use a UV-filter or a clear protection filter. You will however need the Fuji adapter ring to mount filters. Check out the accessories page on the Fujifilm website: Accessories / Software | Cameras | FUJIFILM Digital Camera X Series & GFX – USA (fujifilm-x.com). With the original lens hood (or similar or smaller third party lens hoods you will have no shading of the build-in flash, unless you are very close to the subject (around min. focus distance). I personally love the lens hoods of Lens Hoods – Squarehood. These lens hoods have a very small profile so even at the shortest possible distances your flash will not be shaded nor will they block the OVF. Of course you'll have to ask yourself whether using the build-in flash at these short distances does any good to your photo... 😉

I'm in exactly the same position. For professional work I've moved away from Fujifilm, but for personal work I still love the X-Pro2 form factor. The X-Pro3 indeed misses the point for me. Next to a number of improvements (faster AF, better EVF, placement of the diopter adjustment and exposure comp dial) there are some crucial misses for me: the sub screen is nothing but a gimmick and looks cheap on this camera. The tilting screen is exactly the wrong implementation, whereas the X100V is exactly right if you want a tilting screen at all. Same for the ISO dial. But the main issue for me was dropping the X-Pro2 dual magnification in the OVF rendering the X-Pro3 OVF useless for anything wider than 23mm or longer than 50mm. So I returned the X-Pro3 I had on trial and kept using my X-Pro2 (although I mostly use my M10-R and Q2 nowadays). Now, the X-Pro models have always been niche cameras for Fujifilm. Therefore the launch of newer models followed roughly a 4 year cycle. So, logic dictates that we should expect a new model around Oct 2023. If at all, because a friendly retailer (one of the larger online ones in Europe) told me that X-Pro3 sales were initially good due to X-Pro2 owners replacing their camera, but dropped sharply thereafter and is now way under previous X-Pro2 levels. As said before, this is a niche camera in a rapidly shrinking market (digital camera sales dropped between 2011 and 2021 by over 90%) and it's a rather expensive one too. Priced in 'full-frame territory'. Potential buyers love the looks, but buy an X-T3/T4 (of a full-frame compact like the Z5, A7C or S5) because it's more convenient with better options. What doesn't help is that the newer f1.4 lenses (the 18, 23 and 33) are all substantially bigger and render the OVF on the X-Pro's useless, while at the same time some of the crucial compact lenses (the 16/f2.8 and the 23/f2) in terms of pure image quality are not Fuji's best. Long story short, the X-Pro3 is a rather expensive niche camera with the relative low sales numbers to match that. If at all, the successor isn't likely to be expected before end 2023.

The 'humming' sound is that of the IBIS unit. Even when turned off, it still remains active to keep the sensor in a fixed position. The X-H1 has a similar sound, but a bit louder due to a different construction.

You should indeed use circular polarizing filters (and not linear). Also on a mirrorless digital camera. The quality of a CPL is crucial. 'Cheap' CPLs can ruin your lens performance. Pick one from a reputable brand. It might cost a bit more, but it's visibly worth it in terms of less color shifts, better sharpness and contrast.

The sensor itself is usually quite reliable. It is often the hardware or software around it that fails (firmware, connectors, batteries, motherboards...) and can cause erratic behavior. Oxidation can be a cause of problems and the GFX platform has some weak spots for that (read Roger Cicala's blogpost on Lensrentals about the GFX100). Other 'known issues' are read/write errors to card slots causing images not being stored. My advice is to check for the latest firmware and install that. Make sure that the battery is fully charged. Then completely reset the camera to factory settings and try it out. If that seems to solve the issues, configure the camera as you want and test again. If either step doesn't solve the issues, you probably need to bring it in for service. Also make sure that whenever a lens is attached you see the correct aperture being displayed and not 'f0' (which is an error message for malfunctioning camera/lens contact).

I think you mean the Image Display function that allows you to review the image after you've taken it? First of all, the image is usually only displayed on the back LCD panel, not in the viewfinder regardless of OVF or EVF. If and if so for how long it will be displayed is a setting in the SET UP/SCREEN SET UP menu. From OFF, via 0.5s and 1.5s to Continuous, meaning until you half press the shutter release button according the manual. There's a catch though. When you have the view mode of the viewfinder set to 'eye sensor' and take your eye away from the viewfinder to view the LCD and you move back to the viewfinder, the image display also disappears as if you half pressed the shutter release button. The second catch is that only when you've disabled the LCD in the view mode, the Image Display will be in the view finder, regardless whether in OVF or EVF mode. In that situation the eye sensor doesn't act as a half press of the shutter release button. I suggest that you take some tests with the Image Display set to Continuous and varying between EVF and OVF as well as the view mode of the VF/LCD. You may have changed a setting that leads to the unexpected behavior.

There are a few major differences between the T3 and the T4 and only you can decide how important these are for you. The T4 has in-body image stabilization (IBIS), a bigger battery, a slightly more pronounced grip and an articulating screen over the T3. In terms of image quality, EVF and AF there's no difference between the cameras (after firmware update 4.xx). As you state that you will create video content the IBIS and the battery life can be real benefit. Whether the articulating screen of the T4 is a must-have for you, depends on whether you record yourself or not. For normal photographic use I'd prefer the 2-axis tilting screen of the T3, but this is very personal. The IBIS of the T4 is a significant advantage when you shoot video or low-light photography. Not to be underestimated unless you're a tripod-user. The battery of the T4 lasts about twice as long as the smaller T3 battery. Think about 45-60 min in video record mode in the T3 and 90-110 min for the T4. Additional spare batteries for the T3 are cheaper to buy though and a battery grip with two spare batteries mitigates the difference. Personally, if I were to do significant video work, I'd always opt for the T4 and buy if needed a pre-owned 35/f2. You could even consider the cheaper XC35/f2 rather than the XF35/f2. There's no difference in image quality, just in construction and aperture ring. Note that for video work the 35/f2 has quite heavy focus breathing. When that is a concern, you might want to opt for the 23/f2. For photography only, I'd prefer the T3 for it's 2-axis tilting screen. When the T3 deal includes the 35/f2, I'd consider it a very good deal. This lens is usually $350 new and $250 pre-owned (depending on the market).

I have had an early X100V too, but to my knowledge there is no recall action for the overheating issue. At least not in Europe. There's 'just' the firmware update that shifts the temperature point before switching-off occurs. I wouldn't know whether there is actually a repair possible without structural alterations to the camera. The hardware is hard to change I would assume.

Unfortunately there is not. On the X-T4 there are two options re. the focus ring. One is about the direction of rotation (CW versus CCW). The other is about the behavior of the ring (non-linear which is standard versus linear). In non-linear mode the focus point shifts faster the faster you move the ring. However it is very uncontrolled in terms where it exactly stops, so it's useless for focus pulls. In linear mode the ring behaves regardless of how fast you turn it, but it is different per lens how much turn (in degrees) it requires to move from one point to another. On top of that it is very imprecise. So, also pretty useless. Exception are the lenses with a clutch mechanism and a focus ring with hard stops (the 14mm, the 16/f1.4 and the old 23/f1.4). They allow for better MF control. Settings such as Sony, Nikon, Leica and Panasonic have where you can fine-tune the behavior of the focus ring are unfortunately not available in Fujifilm cameras.