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yukosteel

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Everything posted by yukosteel

  1. Frozen to about -20 Celsius, this ZSM 35mm has more stiff focus ring rotation, however it's large diameter keeps it still comfort enough. What I liked is the aperture ring stiffness - it is rotating like focus ring in normal room temperature. NOTE: if you decide to repeat such fridge experiment with any lens, make sure it's packed in ziplock first with minimum of air inside. I did so to prevent condensing moisture on lens surfaces and body (and possibly inner glass), and only unlocked plastic bag after lens warmed up to room temperature.
  2. I'll put it to the fridge today, to test that : ) From what I see there is a lot of grease, and all helicoid parts look like made of aluminum or aluminum alloy. I think they should work fine in cold conditions. BTW, saying about loose/stiff focus ring on 12mm. It reminds me again that aperture ring is very loose on my ZSM sample. It has same surface as focus ring, so I often accidentally touch it and rotating instead of focus. I'd be happy to have it very stiff out of the box, or have "clicks" there. As a workaround I simply put wide rubber ring (piece cut from bicycle tire pipe), so the rubber ring border firmly grips aperture ring, and it rotates with more effort now : )
  3. Just to summarize. There are at least three totally different adapter types on the market, to adapt Nikon F mount lens: 1 - "simple metal ring", allows to attach any Nikon F glass to Fuji X mount. Limitation - can't control aperture on Nikon lens that have no aperture ring. 2 - "metal ring with aperture control", similar to type 1, but has ring that connects to Nikon aperture lever, and can close/open aperture even on Nikon "G" lens. 3 - "metal helicoid with(or without) aperture ring", similar to type 1 or 2, but has separate focus ring that allows to extend adapter length. It's good choice for extending macro distance of any Nikon F lens to very close. Another benefit - adapter focus ring can be used instead of lens focus ring, which is much more convenient due to closer ring location to Fuji camera body. I personally use combination of Nikon F > Leica M adapter + Leica M > Fuji X. It has a bit slimmer look, and provides flexibility of using Nikon / Leica mount lens. NOTE: usually more expensive brand adapter are made with better precision standards, so mounted lens will not play on camera and focus distance will be precise. However I personally buy cheap adapters ($10 - $20), and just repeat that until receive good quality sample.
  4. I'd personally recommend you to return ZSM and spend more time with XF 35mm 1.4, look like you really enjoy it, and it's a great lens indeed. The only thing I miss in Fuji lens is direct manual focus. I'd pay 1.5x of ZSM price for Fuji XF 35 1.4 converted to fully manual mode : )
  5. BTW, I've partially disassembled my Mitakon II 35 0.95 week ago. I didn't discover yet how to move further with disassembly to reach aperture area, so assembled it back. Few observations: Parts inside look a bit unfinished, with sharp edges and metal cut signs. Mount ring is heavy. Looks like it's brass alloy inside. It's secured with 3 long but thin screws. Rear lens is firmly attached to the lens mount ring, even some glue is used. Outer helicoid part made of quite thick aluminum. Black ring with DOF scale can be put in any position, so if your sample has it rotated, it's easy to put the ring back.
  6. 2CV6, it's a definitely factory defect, seller should accept return for 100% refund, and it's not questionable what they decide. If it's eBay, you simply open a case with attached pictures. I see that only 8 aperture blades are found on your lens sample. In fact this lens should have 9 aperture blades, you can see that from pictures of my lens sample, and from "bokeh" shape. It looks like 2 aperture blades have broken connections inside, and don't move properly. This is definitely a defect. I use my lens quite often, and hear noise when shaking it with open aperture - it means that blades are a bit loose, but they close\open fine. One precaution to remember - with large size aperture blades and big count of them, never change aperture too quick. It may break one or few blades. However if you received lens like that - it's factory defect.
  7. Just noticed this Wesley 24mm 1.8 is listed in Fuji-X mount. http://www.ebay.com/itm/391626837082 looks like It's not zonlai but another type, focus ring is on front and aperture near mount.
  8. X-E1 has nice feature which I miss in X-E2 now. You can see "film simulation" icon when selecting Custom setting. I usually save different combination of Auto-ISO + minimal shutter + film profile to different Custom setting. So when I attach 18mm lens I switch to profile with Auto-ISO + 1/30 min shutter. When I use 100mm lens, I quickly switch to custom setting with Auto-ISO + 1/200 min shutter. That's very fast and convenient.
  9. It's important to remind few things about using manual lens on Fuji - sometimes adapter is slightly thicker/thinner than needed, in that case "infinity" on focus dial will not match real infinity - DOF scale on manual lens is designed for Full Frame sensor size, and is also accurate for certain photo print size. - Focus Peaking mode makes image looking much sharper in EVF, so final shot looks less sharp. Just tweak to "STANDARD" EVF view after focusing to see that. I'm shooting with manual lens on X-E2 all the time, and use zoom view for precise focusing when required.
  10. Voigtlander Nokton Classic 40mm f1.4 S.C on Fuji X-E2
  11. I love the pictures of animals/birds. Looks like it's not very easy to master the lens to make bokeh less busy, but I like that unusual look! : )
  12. You rock evajaj ! : ) So looks like four screws are located under the inner front plastic ring, great job disassembling this piece! Does that front plastic ring unscrews through the filter thread?
  13. Does it mean that you can't enter firmware update menu? What happens if you turn off camera, hold "DISP BACK" button and turn camera ON?
  14. Thank you! Looks like I missed to do it right with X-E1, now it sounds so simple. Yes, it's a pity that some important functionality is lost in newer model.
  15. Can you share exact selected camera settings/steps to make it possible? I was not able to configure that in my X-E1. Goal: EVF only mode for shooting, LCD is not active. LCD only mode when previewing pictures.
  16. Thanks! Good to know it's possible now in current X-E1 firmware. I've sold my X-E1 about 1.5 years ago.
  17. I'd turn 55-200mm OIS off for such shots.
  18. Zonlai 25mm has one big design flaw - whole inner cylinder with all glass inside has only two side pins that slide in outer cylinder helicoid thread during focus, and that pins are very long and thin. Due to that there is often significant play of focus ring - you can turn it up to 10-15 degrees without actual focus move. If you focus to middle distance and point camera up or down - inner cylinder will move and focus will be changed. So you can't precisely rely on marked DOF distance. I also had chance to disassemble lens front area to clean aperture blades and front glass elements: 1. unscrew front metal ring (filter mount) by rotating it CW 2. unscrew metal part right above front glass (with lens name) by rotating it CCW 3. unscrew next inner metal ring by rotating it CCW
  19. Yes, Fuji continuously improve firmware, and next camera models. Current X-E2 is a totally different camera to what it was a year back, so many improvements. E.g. with newer X-T1 it is possible to set "EVF only" for shooting, and "LCD" for Playback.
  20. When you change "EVF/LCD SETTING" to "EVF" - X-E2 will show all information in EVF only, no exceptions. It's global setting, no matter if you are shooting or Playback image. X-E2 is much slower comparing to most DSLR, so it will take time to get used to new shooting style. E.g. Nikon D7000 camera is always ON (viewfinder is always powered when battery is alive), and you can instantly turn the switch and make shot in less than a second. While X-E2 needs at least 1 full second to start from "sleep mode", or about 2.5 seconds to start from OFF mode. You still can make a shot with X-E2 in about second after turning ON, which is not bad. X-E2 often requires to calm down some DSLR-speed oriented habits, and get used to its slower performance.
  21. Once I repaired Canon EF 85mm f1.2 lens that looked like that. Fortunately it was just broken filter. Once I removed all glass parts, cut the filter frame and took it out - it happened that front lens element was not damaged at all.
  22. The answer is - yes, Fuji is very serious about their lens. That was clear from the very beginning. The system got started with XF18mm f2, XF 35mm 1.4, XF60mm 2.5 - all primes with exceptional IQ. I think XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 was the first Fuji X zoom lens, and again it's premium-grade zoom lens, which you can see from it's starting F2.8 at 18mm, and also exceptionally high IQ. It's awesome that Fuji covered wide range of demanded zooms and primes. About the m4/3 pancakes. They are still just F3.5-4.5 cheaper "kit" lens, and also just more compact next generation of previous F3.5-4.5 lens that are slightly bigger. I think Fuji does not have any need to produce lower quality lens just to satisfy request for more compact zoom lens design. I wish they'll keep producing high grade lens of bigger size if needed to satisfy that IQ we Fuji shooters like so much.
  23. Absolutely! Dust particle should be huge to affect image. I've disassembled my sample just because of aesthetic aspect, and of course curiosity : )
  24. That's really fun idea Of course technically it's very complex to do, because focus and aperture are also electronically controlled in EOS-M. Pancakes are always joy to use, 22 would be definitely a winner. I think Fuji Rumors published something about probability of XF 23mm f2 lens so it's better to wait if Fuji decide to make such thing.
  25. I've made couple of test shots today on F11 and don't see any influence from the dust under front elements. Do you have any Xf 27mm shot samples with "dust issue"?
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