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yukosteel

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Everything posted by yukosteel

  1. I observe this Cold Start lag with quite fast card: 16Gb Class 10 SanDisk Extreme Pro UHS-1 95Mb/s . Hot Start lag is usually just a bit shorter that 1 second - when High Performance is ON, and camera was ON recently (in a 20 minutes time range). On my X-E2 sample it's easy to reproduce Cold Start lag by just removing battery for 5 seconds, and then tuning it on. It takes 3 seconds even in HP mode. Or it takes 2 seconds if NO card is inserted.
  2. Thanks for useful point! I've read details and will test mechanics once I find and buy silver version from one of sellers. Looks like they are out of stock.
  3. It looks so small! And I like the silver aluminum version. Tried to order one from one of Hong Kong seller, but they replied that manufacturer have some production delay for silver samples, so need to wait for few weeks until they appear again : ) The closest manual lens of similar size and versatility I've tried on Fuji was adapted Olympus Half Frame G.Zuiko 25mm 2.8 . It's also very small lens due to it's half-frame image circle coverage. Adapter is also slim, like LTM>FX . The only cons is the price - in good conditions in sells for $350+ . I like your shot samples, and very interesting to try this lens, thanks for sharing. Olympus Half Frame G.Zuiko 25mm 2.8 Olympus Half Frame G.Zuiko 25mm 2.8
  4. I see other Zhongyi lens also have Mark II versions, and also Lens Turbo II adapter has improved quality. It's great they keep working on making better and more competitive optics. I like improved sharpness of this ZSM 35mm mk-II in the center, it's nice to use it for cropped shots when needed instead of switching to 50mm or 140mm lens. E.g. I wanted to catch this scene with more narrow angle, and just stopped down to f2.8 and later cropped to 50mm and 140mm correspondingly: 35mm: 50mm: 140mm (100% crop):
  5. That's right behavior of FW4.0. Unfortunately, there are no way to use LCD for preview when LCD/EVF mode is set to "EVF only + OC sensor" or to "EVF only". However, there is kind of workaround. BUTTON/DIAL SETTINGS > FUNCTION (Fn) SETTINGS > Fn6 > EVF/LCD SETTINGS You can set any Fn button to that, but I'd recommend Fn6 because this button does nothing in Preview Mode. So you can use "EVF only + OC sensor" all the time. And when you want LCD preview - just press Fn6 one time, then hit Preview. After Preview is done, you can immediately use camera EVF again, and just hit Fn6 three times to return to "EVF Only + OC sensor". I know, it's not very convenient solution comparing to X-T1. But at least it's possible in that way.
  6. Thanks for sharing, it's interesting to see different aperture designs. I've repaired once aperture for Sigma 24-70mm 2.8, it also has 9 blades as ZSM 35mm, and I'm wondered if it also has similar guiding cuts. I assume that one of that cut is not perfectly positioned (and other ZSM 35mm have same part), so corresponding single aperture blade is moving slightly different. It can be other mechanical design, because ZSM aperture does not require instant close-open operation like in DSLR lens.
  7. Yes, it's better with High Performance, I also switched it ON after noticed this delay. I think it influences just particular shutting cases, like when you want to catch something fast and camera was OFF for more then 20 minutes. So I'm turning it on and look into EVF, press focus assist to precisely focus (here 1 second delay appears), and make a shot. That's the only situation where that 1 second makes a change for me. With X-T1 I didn't have that delay. One good thing about X-E2, it is still taking a shot before that "space calculation" delay, so at least shutter button is never blocked : ) When I set right DOF and prefocus, I just turn on the camera and make a shot without using Fn or Focus Assist.
  8. It would be helpful if anyone can try to repeat described steps and say if other X-E2 behaves the same way. I don't think it's wrong behavior, rather normal performance difference. That delay is annoying, but I can live with that, I still like X-E2 more than X-T1. It's the only case I know when buttons really don't react. Fortunately it's rare case when Performance Mode is ON, and delay lasts for only 1 second.
  9. Looks like Curiojo and Bob123 say following difference: X-T1 - you can press "View Mode" button for "Shooting" and for "Preview" modes separately, e.g. : Shooting Mode - select EVF Preview Mode (preview button) - select LCD X-E2 - you can ONLY select "View Mode" in the menu, and it is always same selection for both "Shooting" and "Preview"
  10. Interesting. I'm wondered if there is any setting missed to tweak. This "card calculation" delay is most noticeable difference for me comparing to X-T1. Steps to reproduce that delay on X-E2: 1. Set POWER MANAGEMENT > HIGH PERFORMANCE = OFF 2. Switch LCD mode to display "INFO" 3. Turn off the camera 4. Wait for 5 minutes (if you had High Performance ON before, otherwise wait for 30 seconds only) 5. Turn on the camera, and observe: 5.1 switch clicks 5.2 LCD blinks 5.3 LCD shows shooting information on black background, without "recording time/remaining shots" numbers 5.4 LCD also shows "recording time/remaining shots" 6. Press "MENU OK" button (or any Fn, Q) on sub-step 5.3 ISSUE: buttons will not react until camera calculates and "recording time/remaining shots" is shown. (for me it takes 1 second) If you remove card from camera, and repeat steps - "no card" warning will be shown on step 5.3, but buttons will work immediately WORKAROUND: Set POWER MANAGEMENT > HIGH PERFORMANCE = ON In this mode substeps 5.1-5.4 behaves slow only on first turn-on. For next turn-on steps 5.1-5.4 run fast, and buttons are not blocked on step 5.3. If camera is OFF for more than 20 minutes, then first turn-on will also be slow. NOTE: I use quite fast SDHC Class 10 cards of relatively small size. E.g. 16Gb SanDisk Extreme Pro 95Mb/s NOTE2: Manual lens is used on camera, so no additional delays of XF lens in this test.
  11. Good hint, tried to see if it helps to improve turn-on performance. Unfortunately reset doesn't help in this case, camera still takes extra few seconds to read flash card and calculate remaining space. During that you can not press any Fn, Q, or focus assist button - no, you need to wait 2 seconds first. That is probably most annoying thing for me in X-E2. BTW, interesting observation, all C1-C7 settings can not be reset, they remain same. It's quite useful, so I don't need to setup all 21 AUTO ISO settings again.
  12. Yes, aperture module usually requires very high precision. I'm not very surprised that ZSM has slight misalignment there. Looks like the part which I'd call "aperture decal" probably has microscopic shifts in guideline cuts. Because of that blades are not perfectly centered. If you look closer on ZSM body there are many imperfections. E.g. paint is not 100% accurately applied to engravings, DOF scale is not symmetric, aperture ring texture is not finely sanded before applying paint. That are still things Zhongyi can improve. And that minor defects are negligible comparing to overall lens performance. I don't think that slight misalignment makes any difference on wide open aperture range of 0.95-2.8, that's why I don't worry about that. I'm more curious to see how will mechanics operate after 6 months of extensive use.
  13. Issue finally got resolved and that official US Fuji Dealer accepted return and sent full refund. They didn't discover yet what went wrong and why I received this bad sample, but I glad it's over. I feel sad that my first experience with XF 50-140mm was so bad. I was inspired by it's size and build quality, silent and quick autofocus, noticeable OIS. Only about 10 happy minutes : ) Then it converted to 10 days of nightmare. I'm so tired of this case, that will skip trying to buy other XF 50-140mm. Maybe it's not a right time for that. Maybe next year. Probably I'll buy old and used Nikkor 80-200mm 2.8 Mk-III + adapter. Many thanks to everyone for your support! It really helped me to stay calm, using your wise hints and communicating to the seller in a right way.
  14. I think rumored Fuji 33 F1 will be superior lens in overall image quality, just because Fuji has more power to design and make excellent lens. I'd strongly recommend to buy this ZSM 35mm 0.95 II lens ONLY from the place where you can easily make a return. Just in case : ) I purchased my ZSM sample from one of eBay Hong Kong seller, just because his -9% special, and nice return policy. When I communicated my concerns, seller replied fast and checked other samples for me, and offered replacement or return. But finally I realized that everything is fine with my sample, and I very like how it performs. Slightly asymmetric look of closed aperture blades, it's observed on many samples: Anyway, you may have different experience, or just don't like how the lens work for you. This lens is relatively expensive for manual focus type, so will be hard to re-sell. Once I've purchased used SLR Magic 50mm 0.95 for about $950, and sold it in about year, just because it's too specific lens with very low interest to it on the market. This ZSM is more interesting, it's smaller, lighter, much easier to use. It's sharp in the center, even wide open. But this lens is not as perfect in corners like its equivalent 'Nikkor 50mm 1.4 on FF sensor'. Many of you have Fuji XF 18-55mm lens. It's just slightly bigger than ZSM 35mm (Fuji: 65 x 70mm vs ZSM: 63 x 60mm), and about 150 g. lighter (Fuji: 310 g. vs ZSM: 460 g.)
  15. I'm using filters for protection since accidentally caught small scratch right in the center of Panasonic 20mm 1.7 lens. It's also much easier to wipe out flat filter glass surface comparing to curved front lens, especially after some shooting close to the salt water or dusty places. Also used filter to protect X100S for same reason as Tom H. I don't mind if additional ghost/flare is added.
  16. I think cheap adapted glass will win in most cases, just because it's more affordable and usually produces great (or better) results. Also many people like more the old classic look of shots comparing to "digital" and "razor sharp" modern lens rendering. I've noticed one more trend - some old cheap adapted glass can suddenly grow in price once people discover it's potential on mirrorless systems. E.g. Olympus Pen F Half Frame glass was very cheap, super compact even when adapted, and very nice quality. Unfortunately, that factors quickly increased purchase demand and as result exhausted market. It's hard to believe, but relatively inexpensive in the past Olympus Pen F Half Frame 60mm F1.5 sells now for insanely high price ($600 and more). Adapting any glass usually is a compromise of: price, weight, size, quality, etc. SLR glass usually requires quite thick adapter, however it's not a big deal if the price matters. I've personally spent a lot of time with different adapted glass, enjoying results.
  17. Just think on that from different perspective. How many 35mm film and FF DSLR lens are made with F1.4 ? There are hundreds of models, looks like many people like and actively use such aperture. And looks like 50mm F1.4 lens is very popular there. And very often it's manual focusing. Now think on Fuji APS-C lens with about 1.5x crop factor. To get similar angle and DOF, you simply need something like 35mm F0.95 . I personally didn't have any troubles using F1.4 on FF for years. That's why I'm so happy to see that some creative sellers made it possible on Fuji X . Looks like this Kaxinda 25mm F0.95 is just equivalent of FF 38mm F1.4. It's also nice angle, and a bit wider DOF. It would be nice if Fuji really creates XF 33mm F1 - that lens will be pure equivalent of so popular film lens 50mm F1.4.
  18. They are creative indeed : ) And looks like it's quite popular trend to attract people with wider aperture numbers. However I think they are moving right way. It's nice to observe how the quality improves over the time. Probably the price is a bit higher that I'd like to pay for such glass, but it may also change later.
  19. I think it's just translation mistake on the site. This lens can't cover Full Frame or APS-C sensor. I used Voigtlander 25mm 0.95 on m4/3, it was great experience. And it's nice to see smaller version from other brand. Their sizes and performances are compared in this review . I also tried to make few shots with Voigtlander 25mm 0.95 on X-E1. All images had black corners, due to smaller m4/3 image circle. I think this ZSM 25mm 0.95 will also have same trouble on Fuji sensor if converted to XF mount. That's why that Kaxinda is longer and weights more, to cover APS-C sensor for 25mm angle.
  20. That both links shows totally different lens, that covers only m4/3 sensor - Mitakon Zhongyi Speedmaster 25mm 0.95 (11 elements in 9 groups). The Kaxinda 25mm 0.95 lens for APS-C sensor, so it's much bigger, heavier and has different optical formula (12 elements in 10 groups) Thanks for pointing the translation option, that's very useful!
  21. Shots are made on f0.95-f2, with NR-2, and resized to 1300px (click for bigger size). Only few of them are slightly PP for better contrast. I've also cut 1300px 100% crop sample from each shot.
  22. I'm using Google Translate for pages, and also detect brand name, then search more using e.g. Chinese keywords. For this Kaxinda looks like it will be 咔鑫达 25 0.95 Looks like this page has more image samples from Kaxinda 25mm F0.95 on Sony sensor:
  23. I've accidentally noticed lens on eBay while searching for totally different one : ) Looks like eBay sellers often list them even before official announcement. Same happened to Zhongyi 35mm 0.95 mark 2, I just explored X-T1 prices on eBay to sell my camera and noticed that new lens. Would be interesting to find more details on that 25mm 0.95, but it will take some time.
  24. Just noticed 25mm F0.95 KAXINDA manual fixed focus lens for FUJI FX MOUNT Can't find more about this lens yet.
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