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yukosteel

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Everything posted by yukosteel

  1. That is very good question. I'm sure I'd also like to use a collar for tripod especially on less durable mount cameras like X-T30/X-E3. By looking into lens shape and optical elements position I'd try following solution steps: Purchasing lens collar that can accept front area of about 63mm diameter Making or purchasing sliding tripod mount plate. Mounting lens with tripod collar positioned with leg toward the camera to the sliding mount plate. Attaching camera, and securing it on other end of the sliding plate. That should be very durable way to mount lens on a tripod for precise macro without stressing lens body and camera mount.
  2. Can you try to switch X-T3 camera into M focusing mode, then zoom to 140mm and measure what is the minimal distance lens can be manually focused ?
  3. Just checked XF 50-140mm F2.8 with Fuji X-T30, it can focus to 1m distance on all focal range up to 140mm.
  4. I've started using custom made straps with my Fuji cameras about 5 years back and used numerous connection ideas. In this DIY leather strap article I'm sharing details how to create one.
  5. Article on Viltrox 85mm F1.8 utofocus test compared with Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8
  6. Initial lens review of Viltrox 85mm F1.8 lens on Fujifilm X-T30 camera.
  7. That's not always required : ) Most samples work great out of the box.
  8. Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II Aperture ring is step-less, and it has same texture as focus ring and similar rotation effort. It's just named 35mm, but actually it is wider 33mm lens. Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy. Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid. I'd recommend to check other pictures taken with this lens. Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure. When aperture is wide open and you shake the lens - it is producing moving noise inside - that are aperture blades, and it is normal.
  9. Article on Lens Review - 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro with Fuji X-T30 camera. Image samples on 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens Flickr group. Article on disassembly, focus calibration of 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens
  10. I'm assuming you are talking about more compact, silent, and quick focusing XF 23mm f2 (not the f1.4 one). Personally I like 27mm because it's super small and that extra angle difference is not critical in most cases. I'm anyway mostly using F2.8 all the time so not missing aperture ring. I used XF 23mm F2 for some time and like it's quicker and silent operation comparing to XF 27mm, but it didn't make me using it more often than 27mm, it was spending time in shelf and got sold finally. 27mm is my primary lens in wider shooting area.
  11. I've disassembled XF 56mm F1.2 completely couple of times, here's related article. Lens is nicely built and there are few possible noise sources that are by design: 1. Aperture engine operations are producing audible sound. 2. Mechanical focusing movement of the inner rear optical module during AF drive operation, and AF gear rotation sound. Lens should not produce any sound after powering it off and shaking in hands - everything inside is properly secured with many bolts or glue. Focusing moving cylinders are nicely dampened as well. But during operation it is very normal to hear a lot of different noise sounds out of XF 56mm F1.2 lens.
  12. I'd consider either XF 50-140mm F2.8 or learn how to master faster manual focus lens like 85mm F1.4 or 50mm F1.4
  13. After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear. The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort. Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2. Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.
  14. Davlin Fuji X-T2 (and other Trans X) is always showing shutter speed in: s.s. X (for 1/X < 1sec), e.g. s.s. 2.5 (1/2.5 seconds) s.s. X" (for X >= 1sec), e.g. s.s. 2.5" (2.5 seconds) There are no menu item to change that format. Just point attention if ["] is there - it means direct X number, if not - it is 1/X fraction of a second. Hope that helps.
  15. I was highly impressed by Fuji Support when discovered single hot pixel on X-E1 (that time no pixel remapping in firmware menu like X-T2 can now). They fixed it without question, with express return shipment.
  16. There is one more thing come to my mind. Please double check that lens is completely attached and lens lock button clicks at the end of attaching and turning lens clockwise.
  17. The last thing I'd try is to carefully clean contacts on lens. Indeed it's very bad experience. All numerous Fuji cameras/lens I purchased new or used worked flawlessly. It's strange to see lens fails after just 4 days of use. Typically if there are any defects in electronics/mechanics it unveils during first couple weeks of use. I'd return camera to seller to deal with issue, or alternatively just send lens to Fuji Service for investigation and repair.
  18. I'd try to factory reset camera, and re-connect lens after that. Also some new cameras may have still old firmware, it's good idea to dowload latest firmware versions from Fuji site and install. The issue definitely looks like camera fails to recognize the lens, so I'd try to update camera firmware first and see if that helps.
  19. I'd also use air blower on shutter button due to reason you found about release trigger. Water may be still inside.
  20. I think 24h in silica gel is not enough, you better do it for longer time. I rmrmber this article re-posted on Fujirumors: https://petapixel.com/2018/11/21/i-dropped-my-camera-in-crude-oil-and-then-saved-it-from-death/ X-T2 has Weather Protection, and that is not Water Proofing. So now your camera sealing is working against camera not allowing moisture to go out quickly and completely. Hairdryer most likely just heated up and re-distributed moisture inside, and after 24h moisture may still be there in significant quantity. I'd skip using batteries and continue demoisturing process.
  21. Modern Fujinon lens have electronical parts that may fail due to water damage or other reasons. In most cases it worths pay for repair, but sometimes repair costs are too high and its cheaper to just buy another sample. This Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 sample was electronically broken, so I've found relatively simple way to convert it into fully manual focus lens. More details in related article: Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens - true manual focus mod
  22. Thanks for sharing. It's really strange artifact, I never seen such issue while uzing dozen of Fujifilm cameras - it's definitely some firmware or hardware problem. If your camera is under warranty I'd send it to service. If not I'd return it to the seller.
  23. I had Samyang 8mm - it is great lens. Now I have 7Artisans 7.5mm - it's also optically very good. However there are some mechanical warnings. You can learn more from this article: Disassemby - 7Artisans 7.5mm F.28 Fish eye lens
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