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Everything posted by yukosteel

  1. Davlin Fuji X-T2 (and other Trans X) is always showing shutter speed in: s.s. X (for 1/X < 1sec), e.g. s.s. 2.5 (1/2.5 seconds) s.s. X" (for X >= 1sec), e.g. s.s. 2.5" (2.5 seconds) There are no menu item to change that format. Just point attention if ["] is there - it means direct X number, if not - it is 1/X fraction of a second. Hope that helps.
  2. I was highly impressed by Fuji Support when discovered single hot pixel on X-E1 (that time no pixel remapping in firmware menu like X-T2 can now). They fixed it without question, with express return shipment.
  3. There is one more thing come to my mind. Please double check that lens is completely attached and lens lock button clicks at the end of attaching and turning lens clockwise.
  4. The last thing I'd try is to carefully clean contacts on lens. Indeed it's very bad experience. All numerous Fuji cameras/lens I purchased new or used worked flawlessly. It's strange to see lens fails after just 4 days of use. Typically if there are any defects in electronics/mechanics it unveils during first couple weeks of use. I'd return camera to seller to deal with issue, or alternatively just send lens to Fuji Service for investigation and repair.
  5. I'd try to factory reset camera, and re-connect lens after that. Also some new cameras may have still old firmware, it's good idea to dowload latest firmware versions from Fuji site and install. The issue definitely looks like camera fails to recognize the lens, so I'd try to update camera firmware first and see if that helps.
  6. I'd also use air blower on shutter button due to reason you found about release trigger. Water may be still inside.
  7. I think 24h in silica gel is not enough, you better do it for longer time. I rmrmber this article re-posted on Fujirumors: https://petapixel.com/2018/11/21/i-dropped-my-camera-in-crude-oil-and-then-saved-it-from-death/ X-T2 has Weather Protection, and that is not Water Proofing. So now your camera sealing is working against camera not allowing moisture to go out quickly and completely. Hairdryer most likely just heated up and re-distributed moisture inside, and after 24h moisture may still be there in significant quantity. I'd skip using batteries and continue demoisturing process.
  8. Modern Fujinon lens have electronical parts that may fail due to water damage or other reasons. In most cases it worths pay for repair, but sometimes repair costs are too high and its cheaper to just buy another sample. This Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 sample was electronically broken, so I've found relatively simple way to convert it into fully manual focus lens. More details in related article: Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens - true manual focus mod
  9. Thanks for sharing. It's really strange artifact, I never seen such issue while uzing dozen of Fujifilm cameras - it's definitely some firmware or hardware problem. If your camera is under warranty I'd send it to service. If not I'd return it to the seller.
  10. I had Samyang 8mm - it is great lens. Now I have 7Artisans 7.5mm - it's also optically very good. However there are some mechanical warnings. You can learn more from this article: Disassemby - 7Artisans 7.5mm F.28 Fish eye lens
  11. What lens do you use on your X-Pro2 ? If it is not Fujinon lens you need to enable "shooting without lens" in menu. Do you push shutter trigger all the way down?
  12. The EVF module ribbon cable is secured inside, though hit impact may cause it to disconnect or break without visible signs on the camera surface. I'd send it to Fuji Service if camera is still under warranty. Try to reset camera to factory settings just to make sure there are no any settings influence, though looks like you properly checked that area already.
  13. Hi Greg, that extra pixel details are typically captured by the sensor to later apply image corections. Looks like X-T2 just knows that XF 18mm F2 requires some corrections. I'd recommend to check the XF 18mm F2 lens firmware if it's the latest one. Ver 3.11 applies a fix for X-T2 for proper "Lens Modulation Optimizer". http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/lens/xf18mm/history.html Firmware difference may explain why it behaves other way than your other lens.
  14. Short disassembly article on – Fujinon XF 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens [front area]
  15. I'd just disable touch screen for shooting. I'm also hitting screen with nose all the time, but fortunately using cameras without touch screen. AF/MF SETTING > TOUCH SCREEN MODE
  16. I'd also check if both cameras have same firmware. But thechically it should be just slightly different screen hardware. I have two exact model mobile phones purchased with a 1 year gap. One phone shows slightly warmer tones comparing to the other one. Another assumption is that EVF/LCD screen may slighly change the tint due to the screen age. And my last assumption is - if there is any protective screen film/glass, it may also influence color tint. I personally think there are nothing wrong with your second camera, and test image results should show exact 100% color match.
  17. I had that problem with manual lens adapted on X-E2s. Basically X-E2s was nocieably underexposing shots so often that I used to set +1/3 or sometimes +1EV. I had X-E3 and X-E2s at the same time taking same shots and X-E3 was always showing more bright (and so better looking) results. Time passed (a year or 1.5), anf Fujifilm released X-E2s firmware Ver 1.11 with autoexposure fix saying " The phenomenon is fixed that exposure control can work wrongly when aperture priority with M mount adaptor. ". After that firmware fix X-E2s autoexposure works excellent. That simple fact shows that not every Fuji camera works the same with autoexposure. But it also shows that some differences are significant enough to release firmware update. It'd be definitely great to have more influence on auto processes of X-T2 camera. I often turn EV dial to +1/3 and +1 for portrait shooting with X-T2. The fact that X-T1 autoexposure is different than X-T2 autoexposure just indicates firmware changes. It's easy to workaround that differences, even if both X-T1 and X-T2 cameras are used, but I'd definitely love to be able to set consistant autoexposure behavior if possible.
  18. That's the main reason I don't use brilliant XF 35mm F1.4 lens - extra aperture lag is jus so annoying. The only workaround worked for me for shot sequence - to keep AF button half pressed, so at least I can take quick few shots in a row without "re-aperturing" the lens between each shot.
  19. You may also like compact manual focus lens, though focusing is not as fast as with XF 23mm F2 or XF 35mm F2. There are tons of adapted, or native mount options. I'm personally using fast perture adapted Voigtlander F1.5, Mitakon Speedmaster F0.95, and 7artisans F1.2 lens for low light shots.
  20. 1. set front camera lever to C or S 2. assign R-Dial to "AF MODE" 3. press R-Dial and then rotate it to choose AF Mode Zone hope that helps Focus Area assignment to R-Dial allows to press the R-Dial then change focus area size (by dial rotation) and position (by joystick move) if Single/Zone/All AF Mode selected.
  21. Sony colors are often more vibrant and close to natural comparing to X-Trans, so it's expected that short term use didn't impress you much. Its strong point I think reveals during any low light portrait photoshoot producing very pleasant skin tones. I also see that X-T3 has more saturated red/blue comparing to X-T2 (X-H1), so you may like it more. I'd only buy X-T3 at your place just for the desired lens, and 16mm sounds great.
  22. I'm actively using X-T2 + 7artisans 35mm F1.2, and Sony A7S + adapted CV 50mm F1.5. Ergonomically they are very similar sets from the size perspective, and producing very similar pictures. I think the most important size-driving factor here is the lens dimension/price available for both systems. For some cases I prefer Fuji, especially with 100-400mm lens (I'd need to carry much larger and heavier 150-600 with Sony). In case of wide angle I like Fuji + Rokinon 12mm F2 as a very compact ultra-wide set.
  23. In this article I’m showing how to modify Speedmaster 35mm F0.95 II to the click-stop aperture mode.
  24. I'm personally setting NR -3 for all shots, because it's quite easy to apply NR later in post if really needed. Sometimes it's good to set Sharpness to -1 as well for more natural portrait look with super-sharp Fuji XF lens. For the good outdorr/daylight try Provia/Astia, for the indoor light portraits - ClassicChrome
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