yukosteel

I had X-E1 for about year, and didn't have such option there. I don't see anything like that in latest FW for X-E1 as well. I mostly used eye sensor mode on X-E1, and use same on X-E2 now.

Just looked at XF 27mm specificaitons , looks like most of the dust comes to aperture area because of bad air isolation around it. It does not sound safe to extract 5th asph element with suction tool, you'll still need to extract 4th and 3rd, and that may cause misalignment. I also don't know how firm they are sitting there.

It was always that way in X-E2. I think it's same behavior in X-E1 as well. I think first time X-T1 introduced feature to shoot over EVF Only and be able to preview on LCD.

I used what was available in my shelf - it was some glue for paper : ) Once it dries the glue prevents rear group from rotation in sliding holes. I'd recommend to use any glue type that does not damage plastic, and can be removed later if needed.

Rear glass group sits firm on it's place, and I didn't touch all other glass, so no optical calibration required. As for the mount calibration you just need to make sure if there are any mount shims to put them back into right place. I've checked few shots after assembly - all field is sharp on f2.8, no quality degradation.

Don't worry, your X-E2 behaves correct. To make things clear: 1. Selected X-E2 View mode simultaneously applies to both "Shooting operations" and "Preview image". When you set EVF Only for shooting you can not preview images on LCD. 2. X-T1 View mode can be individually chosen for "Shooting operations" or "Preview image". You can use EVF Only for shooting and preview images on LCD. X-E2 HINT: You can assign "EVF/LCD MODE" to any Fn button, and quickly switch to required View Mode by pressing it few times.

Actually lens group assembly is taken out from the front. here are steps: 1. Unscrew 3 black and 4 silver screws (carefully, they all sit in plastic thread) 2. Remove rear inner plastic ring, remove metal mount ring, remove metal shims 3. Unscrew 3 black screws that hold rear body ring, remove ring 4. Carefully detach 2 contact ribbon cables 5. Unscrew 3 black screws on mainboard, carefully remove mainboard 6. Unscrew 3 black screws on the bottom of lens frame, gently detach adhesive tape from wide ribbon cable 7. Slowly take out all lens assembly module from the front area 8. Remove 3 glue applicaitons in slider holes near rear lens group 9. Rotate rear lens group 10 degrees CCW, pull it away 10. Rotate silver metal ring 5 degrees CCW, detach it 11. Unscrew outer helicoid ring (remember its position) 12. Unscrew 1 black screw that holds aperture sensor 13. Remove black thin plastic ring on the bottom of helicoid 14. Remove inner helicoid ring I didn't find any way to disassemble front lens group. So just removed all dust I can, and assembled the lens back. It operates great.

part 2... Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - rear lens group removed Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - disassembled focus helicoid - all parts are plastic except the metal ring that secures outer cylinder Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - another view to helicoid parts Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - this drive controls lens aperture

Spent some time today playing with Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 lens. Disassembly went well, and I was able to remove one very big and annoying dust particle. Sharing these photos just to show how this nice tiny pancake lens is constructed inside. I was not able to disassemble main front lens module thought. Probably the front plate can be unscrewed/removed somehow, but it can be also put on glue. At least the rear lens group was secured with tiny glue applications in. Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - mount parts Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - main lens frame with autofocus drive and focus ring Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - inner lens module where all glass is located Fuji XF 27mm 2.8 - rear lens module is secured with square glue applications

It takes some time to get used to zone focusing because these 12mm lens don't have DOF scale. You can enable focus peaking that will display quite wide zone on 12mm, and get the idea before tracking moving subject. I also had XF 14mm and switched to 12mm simply because I like that camera operates faster with manual lens (turning on/off and switching preview/shooting modes).

I'd wait for next Fuji rebates for all lens. The closest one announced on FR is on May 22.

I used wrong term for "AF mode", actually I mean the front selector on X-E2 - set it to S position

Just set first AUTOFOCUS SETTINGS > FACE DETECTION = ON also AF mode should be Single

50-140mm is focusing much faster, so better for fast moving kids : ) 18-55mm is absolutely great lens for studio portraits, same as 55-200mm. For street shooting and architecture I'd use 18-55 + 35mm 2 for more discrete and relaxing shots. Personally I've sold 50-140mm and purchased 55-200mm again + few extra lens for that cost difference : ) XF55-200mm on 200mm f4.8 (X-E2)

Bruno, you made me order one : ))

Well, I got that bad copy from US Seller : ) ANd it is used lens, so maybe got hit or anything else. I purchased from e-Infinity few times without issues. New Fuji lens are fantastic. If you get bad copy - seller will accept free return for full refund.

Basically X-E2 has now 3x7=21 Auto-ISO settings to store. You can save AUTO1, AUTO2, AUTO3 into each of C1..C7 memory bank. When you go to Quick menu, unfortunately it only shows ISO-auto, without it's number, but you can still switch between them. I personally store different minimal shutter speed into AUTO1, AUTO2, AUTO3, then EDIT/SAVE CUSTOM SETTINGS > CUSTOM 1 > SAVE CURRENT SETTINGS. That saves it into C1, so now you can do the same for C2..C7, or change AUTO1, AUTO2, AUTO3 and save different values to C2..C7.

Zonlai 25mm 1.8 is a very interesting lens - compact and handy. Just tried it today. Unfortunately I've received bad sample - it has about 20 degrees "focus lag". Picture have nice sharpness in the center, however corners are very soft even at f2.8. Zonlai 25mm 1.8 on X-E2, at F2.8

I've personally purchased more than dozen items of Fuji X gear directly from eBay Chinese sellers, with 100% positive experience. I'd highly recommend Hong Kong sellers, just check the reputation and statistics - should be about 1-2k deals at least and 98-100% score. Make sure return policy is free for defects, and seller warranty is at least 2 months.

Well, any extra tweaking would be a plus. Fortunately there is a quick workaround - you can simply rotate shutter dial, which I think most people do. I personally use this "focus zoom" all the time with MF lens, and quite often with autofocus lens for quick and precise AF+MF.

X-E2 wheel click is widely used. It is reserved for "MF Focus zoom" in shooting mode and for "100% zoom" in preview mode. It also works as "OK" for "Fn" menu items. Long press on click wheel also toggles "MF Assist Mode". There are no way to set other function for wheel click.

Kipon adapters are similar to other, but with much higher quality control. E.g. I've purchased 5 samples of Fotodiox LeicaM>FX, and 3 of them had minor issues. I think every Kipon adapter should work precisely, like Fuji adapter. So if you pay for it - you'll pay for increased quality. Looks like for macro you will prefer to use the lens as is, without "focal reducing". So it's basically just simple metal ring construction, and $10-20 price is reasonable for that. Yeah, that nice feeling of using old lens from the childhood! That's why I like mirror-less - practically any lens can be adapted : )

Personally I don't see significant points of using Zeiss 60mm 2.8 instead of more advanced Fuji 60mm 2.4. Any good quality adapter Nikon > FX will work for you. Nikkor 200mm is a lens with aperture control in it, so no need to buy adapters with aperture. You can buy cheap $10 Fotodiox, etc. adapter, just select seller where you can return adapter if it's not good. I used one on X-E1 with Nikkor 300mm f/4 and Nikkor 135mm f/2 DC without any issues, despite that lens are also heavy. I don't remember if Nikkor 200mm has tripod leg - you'll definitely need one, it will work much better than tripod connector of adapter ring.

I've took XF 50-140mm optical schema from Fuji page and marked autofocus and OIS there. As you can see the AF module is quite big (and heavy), so that knocking sound is loud. The dominating noise while operating is produced by massive electromagnets of Autofocus module, it remains same when OIS is switched off.