yukosteel

XF 14mm 2.8 is focusing very fast. 18-55 is also quite good performer.

Technically it's possible, just requires accurate measurements and operations with metal. I've modified few adapters before following similar idea. That M42-FX adapter is a single piece. First step is to create 4 holes for mount screws in exact same positions as on EOS-M mount plate. Second step is to reduce adapter thickness by flat metal grinder (about 1-3mm). It have to be mounted on lens to check if the thickness fits Focus Distance scale. I was just slowly reducing plate thickness by 0.1mm step, and trying it each time on lens until Focus Distance perfectly reflected real distance from object to Fuji sensor.

It depends on camera sample you have. I had one X-M1 camera that shown significant play with heavy lens (about pound or a bit less), while X-T1 mount didn't play for same lens. When you support the lens do you touch the Aperture ring? I think that the problem is related to contact group under the Aperture ring. There are sliding contacts that move over pattern on a contact film under Aperture ring and produce different combinations of signal. It may happen that contact ribbon is shifted a bit due to temperature influences. Or that contact group is not properly secured and shifted a bit (it's mounted to Aperture ring).

Just saw on eBay "BRASS M42 flange Fuji FX Adapter" for $10. It will require some metal work, but can be converted to proper mount part to replace EOS-M on your Ibelux lens.

SLR Magic HyperPrime 23mm 1.7 is good alternative to XF 23mm 1.4. It's smaller, has silky smooth manual focus, and can focus to very close distance.

Well, I was thinking similar way about SLR Magic 50mm 0.95 first day I tried. I paid about $950 for it year ago. Reduced contrast, blurry frame borders, soft focus. But that was just first impression. I had to spend few months until I learned how to master that lens for great shots. Looks like Ibelux 40mm is not an exception. Like all super-fast lens it needs practice and patience.

I saw this GP-1 convept of converting GoPro into a camera like shape. It looks beautiful and is so tiny. But that's all about pretty look, kind of fansy way to use GoPro. In real life I prefer usability and functionality over the look, and very like custom improvements that make utilization easier. I think if X-T1 is made in UW mode (which I guess means underwater) I'd never buy it. Because in that case its cost would be dramatically higher, and lens cost as well. I totally agree with darknj - fully waterproof equipment it's a niche product.

Yes, looks like that JIS has just slightly different angle then Philips. It means simple file can be use to convert one screwdriver into another type. However I repaired few dozen lens always using regular Philips, and didn't do any visible harm/signs to screws. The only problem appeared when the screw was stuck due to lens old age, in that case only WD40 + temperature contrasts helped to unscrew.

I'd recommend trying another good alternative within that budget - old Nikon lens Nippon Kogaku 8.5cm f2 . It can be found in different mounts, and corresponding adapter to Fuji X is not expensive. It's very compact rangefinder type lens and nicely fits Fuji body. The only cons is it's 1lb weight. This lens is known as one of 3 primes that made Nikon name. It produce beautiful bokeh and nice colors, sharpness is also good. Build is very durable and solid. I used it for about year making a lot of nice portrait shots.

I used a bit similar glass - SLR Magic 50mm 0.95 for about half year. It was great lens, but a little heavy for me. I've got many great looking portraits, especially kids from top perspective. I has nicely reduced contrast and beautiful bokeh. It's also awesome for BW shots. I like the build and step-less aperture ring. Later I sold the lens and switched to more compact (and cheaper) Voigtlander 40mm 1.4 S.C that has quite similar picture character. I think it's good idea to try Ibelux 40mm. It will take a time to get use to so wide aperture, but you'll learn great skill finally. I used Zoom focus, because focus peaking was not always precise enough.

Fuji claims all their lens with WR marking are "Weather Resistant", which means increased sealing for better resistance to dust/water (but not 100%). I think it's not designed to be used under the heavy rain. I personally cleaned Fuji X-T1 once under the tap water flow with soap. Later I realized that battery door lock collected some water and it almost reached battery contacts (that could cause electronic death).

Yes, it's ISO6400 for H1 / H2 + Electronic Shutter, thanks for correcting.

I've noticed interesting behavior in FW 4.20 , but I assume FW 4.21 has the same. If you use Electronic Shutter then you can switch ISO dial to L / H1 / H2 and still shoot in RAW . It will just be recorded with ISO200 (it highlights that value with yellow).

Good to hear it works when ribbon cable is shifted. One day similar problem could appear in any X-T1 body including mine, with just extensive use of flipping mechanism. Yes it worths looking for the proper screwdriver, but I usually just gently use smaller size phillips. I add high torque moment for first 10 dergrees to untighten screw, then rotate it slowly. You can practice first on the screw inside of SD Card door, just don't unscrew both there.

One more option of allocating compatible screw is search for "genuine screw set" on eBay, I saw many options for different cameras (but not Fuji X yet). Some sets have variety of sizes and good chance they may fit. Once I repaired Tokina lens and needed very long screws for that (about 1"), impossibly to find. I ordered few screws for Nikon AF 35-70 2.8 and they did fit right : )

Sounds like a warranty case. I've quickly checked if that "LCD-to-Camera" cable is available on eBay, but found there only LCD screen part (costs like half price of XF 27mm ! ). Good thing I see there is that X-T1 LCD part has very short cable, which means it connects inside of screen box to some bridge. So it seems that the "LCD-to-Camera" ribbon cable is a separate part and should cost relatively low (like for Fujifilm Finepix HS28EXR). The main cost will probably take the replacement procedure.

Well, I trust Fuji more than KIA : ) just because had less problems, and also less influencing. It's interesting that Fuji expects to prepare fixed version of 4.20 only by end of Jan. This term sheds no light how much time fix and regression testing actually takes. But I think they have to spend a lot of effort there, and of course not less then spent for 4.20 testing. Will just keep watching how camera works, and wait for news from Fuji.

Agree with all mentioned, very right points. I'm not native speaker so quite often can misuse the word. Yes, I feel thankful at first for the time and effort Fuji makes. It's nice to see that the problem got resolves so quick. I feel confident about Fuji, and like new changes of fw 4.20, and accept the possible risk. btw, I feel thankful for KIA things as well, my experience is very positive there, except one factory defect that could cause accident at any time. Fortunately that bug was reported on time and problem got preventively repaired for free. But I still trust KIA. And I still trust Fuji.

I think it's partially related to screen cable. So one of required signal does not pass in that position, but not needed later. The only assumption that comes into mind so far.

It's a know difference of Fuji Color Profiles on different cameras. You can see that from DPreview tests Fuji had a bit wider DR (-6 : +3.5) on cameras: X-Pro1, X100, X-E1 Now Fuji has more narrow DR (-4 : +4) on cameras: X100T, X-E2, X-T1, X-T10 That's why you see darker tones for same Provia profile. DPreview comments on that: "The X-T1 offers around 4EV of highlight range, with a relatively gentle roll-off at the top rather than an abrupt clip to white. This gives a quite natural-looking, 'flim-like' response. At the other end of the range, though, it dips down rather abruptly to black, which gives distinctly punchy images but does mean that shadows are somewhat prone to blocking up." I'm having similar disappointment, but trying to resolve it by: 1. Tune Color Profile tweaks 2. Overexpose +0.3EV 3. Use DR200

Very strange bug. I'd recommend to remove eyefinder ring, and wipe the viewfinder sensor. Just few weeks back I had strange behavior of auto switching from LCD to EVF - when I looked into EVF it was frequently turning ON/OFF. Not sure it will help in your case but worths trying.

Awesome! Now we have great chance to clarify all the fw 4.20 changes comparing to 4.10 , as I don't plan to "upgrade". Just checked what you wrote - you are absolutely right. No matter what is set in AE/AF-LOCK MODE the button only locks focus until release. Looks like it only affects AE-L button in these conditions, but AF-L only locks Istant Focus until released. That actually makes more sense. I can't imagine good use case where I want to keep the focus locked for long to prevent manual ring influence. I can just not use MF ring and it will stay. Thanks for noticing this mistake.

Yes, I paid for the camera with initial fully working firmware, which Fuji calls "ORIGINAL FIRMWARE" (the one distributed with purchased item). But once you decide to install the firmware yourself - there is Fuji License Agreement. Fuji has "NO WARRANTY", they specifically say that. And they warns: SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS" WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND It's the work they do for free, you pay no extra for that product and features. I know it's actually a significant budget, and appreciate Fuji about that each time I see any effort on FW updates. fw 4.20 changes have significant value for me, and I feel happy about that update

Yes, that's why listed conditions was important to mention: And I'd add one more important condition here from JRphoto - if lens has focus-clutch ring, it should be in AF position.

I'm sure Fuji performed excellent testing level on the fw4.20 . Just take into account that every fw file grows in size, and amount of features and possible combinations as well. So each release it requires more and more testing. I'm also proud of Fuji doing that for free, investing a lot of time and effort. Only such a minor bug discovered in 5 days by thousands of people. Fantastic! : ) I don't know how many people test Fuji fw, but they did really great job, and I feel very confident about fw4.20 .