milandro

as said before you can have a lens: Good optics, Cheap, Light efficient, Small. But you can only pick two.

The most important reason to buy a X-Pro 1 would have been for me ( I have considered doing that before buying the X-E2 just a week or so before the firmware upgrade) the price of the kit with 18 and 27mm at €849 or €899. But I have opted for a X-E2 largely because i had already used a camera that size before (X-E1) and the fact that now the software of the two cameras looked pretty much like my other X-T1. The 56mm is certainly a very nice lens but the balance with a lighter camera will be rather odd at least at first. Personally I went for the 60mm for portraits and the size and weight of the 60mm is perfect (provided you get rid of the stupid lens hood and change it for something more practical as I did). I have all the Bokeh I want with that lens and if I need more than I have some other tricks up my sleeve with the tilt adapter or the lens turbo adapter which I use on legacy lenses. There are many ways to skin the same or different cats. Good luck!

semantic differences ? It doesn’t seem to be a clear cut thing. http://www.fujivsfuji.com/x100-s-t-vs-23mm-f1pt4/

Welcome Marcin. Of course all I will say reflects only my personal opinion and I am sure some other folks will chip in saying the exact opposite. It’s a fora’s life! Unless the OVF ( optical view finder) Is essential to you ( and you won’t always find it easy to find a suitable correction lens for the OVF/EVF), the X-E2 is a way more modern camera than the X-Pro 1. After the most recent upgrade the difference between the two cameras grew very big! Especially if you intend to use any film simulation and make the best use of the autofocus. The sensor between the tow camera is not the exact same one and some people actually prefer the X Pro1 generation because of the so called waxing if you shoot above 1600 ISO. I don’t find this a problem 9 I rarely would use that high a sensitivity, but there you go. On the other hand the X-E2 sensor can make use of a better autofocus capability. Personally I own the X-E2 and the X-T1. Couldn’t be happier. Good luck!

there is a very nice Dutch expression. “ het moet uit de lengte of uit de breedte komen” “ It has to come form the length or the width " As for anything with a balance between the two dimensions, if you pull one direction you will affect the other dimension. In other words, making a small lens comes at a compromise and the amount of compromise is determined by the amount of “ pulling”. You know this is another form You can have a lens that is Cheap, Small, Good ( and I will add light efficient too), but you can only pick two characteristics simultaneously. Anything else is wishful thinking and I don’t do that.

we haven’t yet reached the “ bespoke” lens or camera level. something will come out, it will please some and displease others. It is the nature of the beast.

A compact 23mm f 2 probably means “ smaller” lens as the 35 f2 is smaller than the 35 f1.4 . But we shall see!

If you mean what Mr. Ueno said in His interview here ...Firstly, the angle of light that film and imaging sensors can receive differ from each other. Film can receive light at the slanted angle of up to 45 degrees without any problem, but in case of the digital camera, the light needs to be as perpendicular to the sensor as possible. Slanted angle light causes mixed colors and therefore the real colors sometimes cannot be reproduced. In order to receive the light perpendicular to the sensor, it is important to make the rear glass element on each lens as big as possible to put the light beams parallel from the outlet of the light to the sensor. Finally, the back-focus distance should be shortened as much as possible to eliminate the degradation in image quality..." http://fujifilm-blog.com/2015/06/30/interview-with-mr-takashi-ueno-from-fujifilm-tokyo-why-dont-fujifilm-make-full-frame-dslr/ I believe that he is stating something correct in terms of the science governing the sensors as opposed to film. However, it appears that the new organic sensors to come will bypass that problem. Fuji had tons of lens projects made in their glorious past which aren’t used now.

I thought that you had shot this in your hometown

Daryl, just a nothe on the answering method, you can answer to all the previous posts in one answer ( even edit the first answer successively), there is no need to give a separate answer to all one in a different post. It makes tedious reading with a lot of space. By adding @ to the moniker of the person whom you are addressing your answer to, one will receive an alert that his name was quoted I have no reason to doubt your abilities whether shooting or post processing, but, if I may, I will elaborate on my previous suggestion. The reflection in the water is obviously a more saturated version of the light source. The light source is therefore overexposed being the direct source and not the reflection by at least 2 stops. I would try again to go at dusk when the lights are just tuned on. This would provide some ambient light to outline the building at the back ( if that’s what you want) and expose for the light source. This would probably cause the reflection to be dimer but you can select that area alone and push it a little bit. Good luck.

all Fuji original half cases of all models have some form of odd feeling and weird looking cloth to wrap the camera in should you transport in a bag. The X-T1 cloth was updated with an elastic instead of the velcro the other ones have. You are supposed to wrap the cloth around the camera and then use the elastic to close it all. Most people open it once and never use it , it is a really weird piece of kit. Forget about it!

the world will no longer be the same after this event

looks like a very good idea

thanks very interesting. I am however looking at doing this with my aps-c cameras and ideally the tubes such as the Panagor. My enquiry was particulalry directing toward people whom might have used these tubes and the possible use of a focal reducer on a aps-c ( which I own). Thanks anyway.

Unless one is prepared to make a blind purchase on line, the choice of focal reducers differs greatly around the world and even more so if you chose one system over another one. I went for M42 lenses because that meant that I could purchase many lenses which would cost very little money, in fact the investment, once you’ve decided to stick to M42 lenses is not so much in lenses but in the adapter itself. Metabone, to date doesn’t even make a M42/Fuji XF ( and if they make it is not available on the Netherlands) so this option wasn’t even available to me and given the price ticket of the Metabone speed booster I wasn’t going to chance buying one of these unless it would have come from a disillusioned buyer who thought that he could make a better lens out of an extra piece of glass added to a not so great lens ( in comparison to a native Fuji lens). I bought a Mitakon lens turbo II, bought second hand in the NL although I could have bought it new in Cina for the same price. My vision is that adaptive photography by means of focal reducers or not, has to be taken for what it is. 1) it’s a great way to use something you have already or can buy cheaply 2) One makes images which might have a very different “ character “ than the ones made with modern autofocus lenses at the expense of image quality measured in resolution, micro-contrast and all of that whole shebang. Of course that whole thing comes at a price ad I personally have elected to have a certain amount of autofocus lenses and a certain amount of modern non autofocus wideangle. Then I have M42 lenses which I use on a focal reducer or a tilt adapter ( which I do admit it is an acquired taste to say the least).

As much as adapters are a great to make use of what you already have, adapted lenses cannot perform at the same level as native fuji lenses. Legacy lenses, being made to be used on film, project light at an angle that is simply not the same as the one that the sensor can use within the scope of its capabilities , at least Mr. Ueno says so. I have some adapters myself and I use them for the peculiarities of those lenses or adapters. I I ever come across the legendary 50.. f 1.9 Kern Macro Switar for not too much money I would buy it but wouldn’t expect to beat my Fuji 60mm macro at his own game.

exactly my point, some people have had this despite the fact that the camera wasn’t subject to heavy use in tough conditions. On the other hand others in similar situations haven’t experienced that. I agree that there is certainly a problem and I am not disputing that.

I have a question for the “ cognoscenti “. Why in Aki-Asahi Camera Coverings not updating Fuji covers? http://www.aki-asahi.com/store/ They started well but at some point stopped updating their production and they Have not produced any update for Fuji camera more than a year despite Fuji having produced many cameras ever since. I like to buy a skin for my cameras when the guarantee expires installing one voids automatically the guarantee which seems a bit unfair and drastic to me especially if you think that Fuji UK was producing customized models but they appear to no longer do that! Why? Well, their ( Fuji UK custom shop) website seems to be down for maintenance could it be that they are going to surprise us soon? “...We'll be back soon The Fujifilm Shop is currently undergoing scheduled maintenance. We hope to be back on the 15th of February 2016. For any questions please email: contact.shop@fuji.co.uk...." Meanwhile we can watch these tutorials by Aki-Asahi I am particularly attracted to these finishes for my black X-E2

strange how this problem seems to affect more some than others. Even taking into account that someone would put the camera through more intense or rougher use there has to be a reason why this happens to some and not to others.

the font of the whole system changed and it is smaller mostly because they had to fit a lot more information in the same space. If you need ALL those things ( I don’t) to show at the same time it might be daunting. I really have very little use to get all that much information and have elected to keep it to what I consider to be a useful minimum.

The camera that you have now is perfectly capable to offer you the same possibilities that you had before these new cameras came out. You are no more stuck now than you were a month ago. I am all for looks but if you never use the so called “ rangefinder” of the X Pro and X 100 what are you doing with it? Those looks come to a very serious price! I have a friend of mine who uses his X100S only with the EVF and now is painfully admitting that a X-E2 would have been a better choice for him. Some people like the rangefinder because they say that in that way they can see what happens around the picture. I have both a X-T1 ( the EVF is really very good) and a X-E2. If I want to see what happens outside of the frame that I am shooting I could use ( but it is something that some people would hate) my right eye on the X-E2 camera while keeping the left eye open to check out the scene around, yes, it is awkward at first but can be done. I thought of this when I went to try contact lenses. I had a problem and that was that yes, I corrected the myopia with the contact lenses but then I wouldn’t be able to read the time on my watch or read the speedometer while driving. The optician suggested that, on top of it I have the same correction on both eyes so I would be able to use the same lens on both if I wanted, that I only buy one contact lens for my dominant eye and that with that eye I looked far and with the eye without the lens I would look for things close by. I thought that he was vigorously pulling my leg but not, he was dead serious. There are, or so I am told, several people who do this. Anyway I never got used to this particular thing. Getting back to NEEDING to upgrade to X-Pro 2 or X-T2 (if and when it will come) or X200. Ask yourself if you really need to have the things that make your camera that you own now, different from those which you would want to buy or if you want them because they are out there. Some people really do, the majority don’t. There are however no “ chops in the box”. Your pictures will be the same whichever camera you use. The best way not to waste money is not to spend it if you don’t need to. Good luck!

@daleirvine, This is the catch with upgrading, you cannot downgrade on your own at least not if you are not an expert programmer which might doctor the files without breaking the camera in the process. This was the reason why the X-T1 received an upgrade with a bug, then it needed an “ upgrade” to bring it back to what it was before the bug which was then fixed and upgraded again. The same thing happens to my Mac, once it is upgraded you cannot downgrade it. On a computer it is possible to create a partition of the hard drive and install several OS. This is not the case on cameras. The only possibility is to try to find a camera body which belongs to someone who hardly uses internet and has never heard of a forum such as this. You’ll be surprised of how many people like this there are. I recentely bought a X-E2 with the original first firmware.

I think it is on page 10 of the new manual , you have to assign a different function Selecting S.S for h BUTTON/DIAL SETTING > COMMAND DIAL SETTING (P106) allows the command dial to be used to choose the shut- ter speed (P 45, 47, 49, 95), the exposure time for long time-exposures when the shutter-speed dial is rotated to T (time) (P 50), or, in program AE mode (mode P), different combinations of shutter speed and aperture (program shift, P 46). R Assigning COMMAND DIAL SETTING to a func- tion button makes it easy to switch between shutter speed and aperture (P 44).

From the reflection in the R it looks like you have used a flash too? I wouldn’t do that. I would shoot this when the lights just come on, hopefully when there is some residual ambient light ( it would be perfect if you were looking west). However, I think that you should play with different color temperature settings because it can only be a color balance issue generated by the fact that you might be using the correct or not type of balance relative to the spectrum of the light source. The light inside the letters Toronto might be fluorescent or not and even if fluorescent there are many types of fluorescent light ( currently your camera should be having 3 different ones). The eye is a very bad judge of these things but the sensor really shows what the light emits and can be corrected accordingly but if you imput the wrong color temperature then everything will be off. If you would be able to enquire about this, from the technical service maintaining that site, they might be able to tell you exactly the type of light used and you might be able to correctly set its color temperature in your camera. Perhaps this helps. Good luck! http://www.apogeephoto.com/july2004/jaltengarten7_2004.shtml

Well, it’s an idea. One like many others. Some would like it and some will hate it. there are people out there who will like a square sensor (which naturally makes the best use of the image circle of a lens) ultrawide, always sharp even as a lytro, and then you crop and crop until you get what you want. This idea might have merits, just not for me. I suspect that the base and stronghold of the Fuji users is represented by more elderly photographers ( at least judging by the personal pics which many here use as their avatar) and those, in my opinion, would not be, generally, too interested. The younger Fuji users on the contrary might take to this concept. Who knows? It might work. Personally, I like cameras with interchangeable lenses and use zooms if I need that kind of versatility. Like is a Supermarket, we are all in it and chose different products.