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Hello Fujifilm X-T 10 users,

 

I recently bought a X-T 10 camera with fx 18-55mm lens (f2.8-4.0) and love this !!

 

Now, I would like to know if fx 18-135 mm lens will work with X-T 10 camera?  Thank you guys.

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I'm travelling with the 18-135 right now. Very handy, and surprisingly good image quality for a super-zoom lens. If I were you, I'd seriously consider to get one. Especially for travels, the versatility of this lens is a gift!

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Now, I would like to know if fx 18-135 mm lens will work with X-T 10 camera?  Thank you guys.

I guess you used to be a Nikon user if you expect incompatibility problems). Fuji X is very young system. There are no compatibility problems yet.

 

XF 18-135 is great lens. Much better than canikon's crappy plastic superteles. It's sharp and has quite fast AF. IMO the only gotcha is that in 110-135mm focal lengths the zoom ring is much tighter than in the rest of the range. In fact it's too tight. Not a big deal. While zooming in one has just to remember that he has some more range after the lens has reached the stop by feel. There is also some noise during power on even with OIS off and MF mode. I guess it just powers the AF motor to hold the position. It's not a problem as the noise is very quite and in fact can be heard in total silence.

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[...] I guess it just powers the AF motor to hold the position. It's not a problem as the noise is very quite and in fact can be heard in total silence.

 

Just as a quick note here, the 35mm is a LOT noisier than the 18-135, even the newer 27mm produce more noise when focusing than the 18-135.

You really have to be focusing on the noise to hear it adjust itself otherwise the lens is super pratical to have.

 

What really makes it shine is the 5 stops stabilisations, I have done plenty of shots at 135mm at 1/15 handheld and it came out sharp, something that spoiled me to no end if I use it for too long and swap back to either the 27 or 35 and wonders why the picture is blurry at 1/20 handheld and then realise the mistake and adjust the speed accordingly.

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Just as a quick note here, the 35mm is a LOT noisier than the 18-135, even the newer 27mm produce more noise when focusing than the 18-135.

These lenses and 56 one are noisy while focusing while 18-135 creates constant noise even in MF and OIS off. While I am shooting indoors with no other sounds it's strange to hear a constant noise a camera makes. Once again - not a real issue but an interesting nuance.

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These lenses and 56 one are noisy while focusing while 18-135 creates constant noise even in MF and OIS off. While I am shooting indoors with no other sounds it's strange to hear a constant noise a camera makes. Once again - not a real issue but an interesting nuance.

 

I knew that the 56mm was noisy too but I didn't knew it around the level of the 35, the 27mm is softer on that side.

 

But I had no idea the 18-135 was at a constant humming, never noticed! I am assuming it's the linear motor in action ?

 

And you are right, I have shot with the 18-135 for over 6 months now and I never noticed any sounds from it. The 35mm sounds like an old man ramblings, not really that annoying but definitely there.

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That's what I think. It powers the motor to hold the AF group position.

 

I know that at this point I am hi-jacking this thread but, doesn't that sounds weird ? Why would the motor hold the AF group in position when you manually focusing and the OIS is off, wouldn't it make more sense to enable it only when needed ?

Or could there be some kind of lag for the LM to enable and disable itself ?

If that's the case, that would be mean the LM lenses draw more power from the battery than non LM lenses.

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I know that at this point I am hi-jacking this thread but, doesn't that sounds weird ? Why would the motor hold the AF group in position when you manually focusing and the OIS is off, wouldn't it make more sense to enable it only when needed ?

Or could there be some kind of lag for the LM to enable and disable itself ?

If that's the case, that would be mean the LM lenses draw more power from the battery than non LM lenses.

"Linear motor" says nothing about the motor type. Stepper motors usually require constant voltage to hold the position. Nevertheless the usually make no noise during this process. I am not really sure but this could be some kind of linear stepper motor habit. Unfortunately I've never worked with linear stepper motors.
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"Linear motor" says nothing about the motor type. Stepper motors usually require constant voltage to hold the position. Nevertheless the usually make no noise during this process. I am not really sure but this could be some kind of linear stepper motor habit. Unfortunately I've never worked with linear stepper motors.

 

Me neither, still finding the subject rather intriguing and that got me curious... Quick, to the Google mobile !

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Why would the motor hold the AF group in position when you manually focusing and the OIS is off, wouldn't it make more sense to enable it only when needed ?

Or could there be some kind of lag for the LM to enable and disable itself ?

If that's the case, that would be mean the LM lenses draw more power from the battery than non LM lenses.

Perhaps, the manual focusing ring have not any mechanical link to movable lens and acts as encoder. It sends signal of own position to the camera, then processor makes calculations and sends control signal back, to the lens motor. While signal from encoder is unchanged, motor holds movable lens at the same position, and should to do it constantly. If at this moment remove power from motor, released movable lens can be easy shifted to wrong position, because an external forces are exists and applied (gravity, acceleration, shaking, etc.) These external forces are always applied in an complex and unpredictable way, and motor servo system feels them through some sensors and fights for control. So we can hear a product of this fighting. It's not dependent of motor type, it's system dependent. Such system called "focus-by-wire", it's relatively simple, precise, robust, and allows give to us all options: AF, MF, AF+MF. And constantly draws some power from battery.
But different motors produces different sounds, of course.
Noted above sensors they are also parts of OIS, they are never stops and serves to the OIS system and to the focusing system simultaneously. Sensors (gyro + accelerometer for each axis) they are inaudible.
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These external forces are always applied in an complex and unpredictable way, and motor servo system feels them through some sensors and fights for control. So we can hear a product of this fighting. It's not dependent of motor type, it's system dependent. Such system called "focus-by-wire", it's relatively simple, precise, robust, and allows give to us all options: AF, MF, AF+MF. And constantly draws some power from battery.

But different motors produces different sounds, of course.

Rotory stepper motor usually makes no noise while holding the position thanks to its construction independently of exterior forces. As I understand linear stepper motors should be the same. But I am not sure since I've not worked with them. It's unlikely but LM may be non-stepper type. Morover the noise could be produced not by AF motor at all as we don't know this fore sure.

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Perhaps, the manual focusing ring have not any mechanical link to movable lens and acts as encoder. It sends signal of own position to the camera, then processor makes calculations and sends control signal back, to the lens motor. [...]

 

I agree with a lot of what you said, but it doesn't explain why the motor would be adjusting anything while we clearly disabled the OIS, that should kill part of the motors function.

Also, by changing that to manual focus, the motor shouldn't be doind anything but hold everything in the last known states until the focus is changed.

 

Anyway, after a long night of research and way too little sleep, I couldn't find much about Fuji's Linear Motor except it could be borrowing some part of the technology of MagRail trains, which could then explain the humming as the force field would need to be running at all times no matter what.

If it was a "regular" motor that moves with cranks and nooks, we would 'feel' it even a tiny little bit. Considering how photographs pay attention to details, I don't think one of us would have missed that behavior.

 

In short, I have no better idea of what is happening inside the lens...

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I'd like to return to JJUN's question.  

 

I bought both the X-T10 and XT-1 bodies on trial to compare.  I love the xf 18 - 135 for its speed of changing focal lengths and versatility with no need to change lenses and am pleased with its performance so far.  However, I noticed a lot more camera shake in the hand on the X-T10 vs. the X-T1.  I literally hold my breath and stabilize my body before pressing the shutter to keep the image still while the X-T1 image stays dead still without any gymnastics.  For a number of reasons, I'd like to keep the t10 but am now concerned as instability would be a deal breaker.  

 

One option would be to add the extra grip and see if that helps.  Yet, I need to decide by tomorrow.

 

If anyone has any experience or ideas about the XT-10 and zooms, I'd appreciate your feedback.  Thanks ahead.

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I use my X-T1 Graphite Silver with my 18-135 and battery grip. It balances and looks fantastic and the IS is rock steady. This is a perfect alround camera form my needs. I can loose the battery grip for a lighter option. I also have an X-T10 and adore it too. I leave my 23mm on it all the time now and its become my even lighter option. I think of this as my X-100T replacement with the benefit of being able to upgrade the camera in the future and with an even better lens. I thought the 18-135 worked when I tried it on the X-T10 and the fact it points nose down when carrying it was not a problem to me, it helped protect the lens from the elements. I found it best to hold the lens in the palm of the hand and use the screen much like a medium format camera. Although the X-T10 works fine with the 18-135, I think it begs for the smaller fixed focal length lenses like the 35 or 23 etc.

I hope that helps.

[emoji4]

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

I second the hand grip. I got mine after following someone else's advice on the form and quite happy about it. It doesn't really add anything if you are shooting small primes, if the 18-135 is your default lens, it helps a lot to keep it even more stable.

 

But it does add some weight to it. So I always carry my allen key to ditch the grip if it starts feeling annoying.

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I agree with a lot of what you said, but it doesn't explain why the motor would be adjusting anything while we clearly disabled the OIS, that should kill part of the motors function.

Also, by changing that to manual focus, the motor shouldn't be doind anything but hold everything in the last known states until the focus is changed.

 

Anyway, after a long night of research and way too little sleep, I couldn't find much about Fuji's Linear Motor except it could be borrowing some part of the technology of MagRail trains, which could then explain the humming as the force field would need to be running at all times no matter what.

If it was a "regular" motor that moves with cranks and nooks, we would 'feel' it even a tiny little bit. Considering how photographs pay attention to details, I don't think one of us would have missed that behavior.

 

In short, I have no better idea of what is happening inside the lens...

 

While I'm not an expert on either focus motors or image stabilization, I can offer you one candidate explanation which has nothing to do with focusing at all:

 

Because OIS means there has to be freely moving (within certain constraints) lens group inside the lens, it has to be held still even while OIS is turned off. This means the OIS elements of the lens still have to do some work, no matter what OIS mode you are using. Otherwise you would have freely moving group of lens group inside the lens when OIS is turned off, and I imagine that would do horrible things to image quality. 

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