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Sundo

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  1. However it's not a problem with Samyang/Rokinon 12mm F2.0 and many other lenses they make. There also goes the price and size arguments, that lens costs around 350e new and it's ridiculously small. It's manual focus, but still shows that the size and cost requirements for the glass and mechanical parts are not the limiting factor. Stopping down to 2.8 completely defeats the purpose of having a fast lens for astrophotography, you get one fourth the light and might as well go out with the 16-55mm. I'm sure the 16mm F1.4 a great lens, but it's definitely not without any drawbacks. That "just stop it down and be done with it" is rather ridiculous comment when discussing a large aperture prime. I seriously doubt people buy it so they can stop it down to one fourth of the maximum aperture when doing photography in the dark.
  2. I've also been thinking about getting the 16mm. It'd be a no-brainer if it didn't have such horrible coma performance, but because the coma is absolutely awful I'm most likely not going to get one. I had the 23mm F1.4 for a while and sold it for same reason. In case you don't know what I'm talking about, check Phil's star pictures in another thread. I wonder what it is about lens design that causes 16-55mm F2.8 to have good coma correction, yet it's sorely lacking in all Fuji primes. Since I do a lot of night photography and starscapes, such miserable performance really bothers me. It's doesn't affect just star pictures either, night cityscapes can easily get messed up and it can cause blurriness on high contrast edges in other situations as well. I know it's not impossible to correct properly in prime lenses as Samyang/Rokinon seems to do admirable job (12mm F2.0 is a good example). Most major camera manufacturers just don't seem to care enough.
  3. They're all quite nice pictures, especially the third one, but they also remind me why I sold my 23mm. It's otherwise great lens, but coma is something quite horrible. Unfortunately same is true for 16mm F1.4. It's a shame that in order to do wide angle astrophotography you're pretty much forced to use Samyang manual focus lenses.
  4. That's the "used Photoshop for align the 6 photos" part. In astrophotography image processing is at least half the work. You can't do wonders if the original images are bad, but even if they're as good there's still tons of processing to do before you end up with a great picture of the milky way or other astronomical objects. I posted this list in an earlier topic, but I guess it might be useful here as well:
  5. Perhaps you should check the comparison in http://www.prophotonut.com/2015/01/05/fuji-x-series-portrait-lenses-compared-inc-56-apd-50-140-zoom/ I currently own 56mm F1.2, and I like the results and focus speed. I also have 16-55mm F2.8, which focuses much faster in any reasonably good light and also has a pleasing bokeh, but obviously it's not quite as creamy as the 56mm. Based on the review above there are few good slightly cheaper lenses for portraits. 60mm seems to have quite nice bokeh, as does 55-200mm at longer focal lenghts. All the lenses listed are very sharp, certainly sharp enough for portraits. If you want to take portraits and don't mind missing autofocus, there are plenty of manual focus lenses available that can be adapted to Fuji X moun. I used to have Asahi SMC Takumar 55mm F1.8, it was a lovely lens but didn't get much use after getting Fuji 56mm so I sold it. Just look for good manual focus 50-135mm lenses, there's no shortage of them and as long as you check the lens reasonably well (both reviews and in person), you'll likely end up with a good portrait lens for a fraction of the Fuji 56mm cost. Just try to be sure you get a lens in good condition and don't buy a lens for which you can't find a review (or test extensively in person). While there are many great old manual lenses to be had, there are also many in poor condition with fungus, delaminated lenses, dust or scratches. Also some older lenses have very interesting bokeh, so make sure it's something you like before buying as that's a matter of taste.
  6. Despite the topic, this isn't really X-T1 specific thread. Might be useful to move this to more appropriate area. Although I'm not sure which one that would be. There's really no magical way to get rid of the noise. Increasing the exposure time and stacking exposures will help in getting rid most of it. Noise reduction algorithms will always remove some of the dimmer stars, but usually isn't really a problem since those faint stars wouldn't be visible in the final image anyway. I doubt anyone here can give you better advice than what can be found from a number of different online tutorials, such as (these are in some kind of order, just don't ask me what it is): http://www.lonelyspeck.com/ http://www.astropix.com/index.html http://theartofnight.com/2014/06/the-art-of-astrophotography-tutorial/ http://www.astro-imaging.com/Tutorial/PixInsight/M33/en.html (processing tutorial) https://www.reddit.com/r/astrophotography/comments/2acnqb/the_great_list_of_astrophotography_software/ (software list) http://www.deepskycolors.com/ http://www.skyandtelescope.com/astronomy-resources/astrophotography-tips/ http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/toc_ap.html https://photographylife.com/astrophotography-tutorial Few other useful links: http://app.photoephemeris.com/ http://www.lightpollutionmap.info/ http://www.blue-marble.de/nightlights/2012 (and the rest of the blue marble site)
  7. While I'm not an expert on either focus motors or image stabilization, I can offer you one candidate explanation which has nothing to do with focusing at all: Because OIS means there has to be freely moving (within certain constraints) lens group inside the lens, it has to be held still even while OIS is turned off. This means the OIS elements of the lens still have to do some work, no matter what OIS mode you are using. Otherwise you would have freely moving group of lens group inside the lens when OIS is turned off, and I imagine that would do horrible things to image quality.
  8. Bike is my main method of moving around, and I usually carry varying amounts of photography gear with me as well. I actually used to have the exact same set of lenses you currently have along with Samyang 12mm and 55-230mm. They're all great lenses, but I simply missed the convenience of a zoom while biking, so I recently sold the 23mm and got 16-55mm instead. Nowadays I just tend to take the two zooms along if I go biking, and the rest only if I know I'll need something the zooms can't do (low light performance, better bokeh, wider lens). Constantly switching lenses is just annoying if you want to shoot something quickly. One thing to keep in mind is that 16-55mm may be too heavy for some of the smaller mini-tripods.
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