Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This past week when taking pictures in full sun using a 50mm f/2 in aperture priority mode and auto ISO, I found that the camera would set the ISO to 400 even though the shutter speed went as high as 23,000. On some photos the ISO was set to 200 but I could not determine why it set some to 400 and some to 200. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this happens?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Were you at F2?

 

Full sun @ f2 is tough, so to speak, on the ability of the camera to expose.

 

Simply put, that's freaking bright out @f2.

 

Even at 2.8

 

If you are wide open or close to it:

 

The camera/metering system is floating the ISO to it's lowest allowance in RAF, ISO 200.

 

I'm guessing wide open at F2 on a bright sunny day has got you well into electronic shutter...

 

A bright sunny day @ ISO 200 at F2 is a shutter speed of 1/12,800 which is beyond the mechanical shutter of 1/8000th (using the old bright sunny day rule of 1 ASA at f16)

 

You are on the outer limits of what the camera wants to do so it starts floating the ISO starting at ISO 200 and then 400.....in your case only one stop....which is wholly accountable and likely due to variances in what you are exposing on, as the previous poster indicated.

 

Regardless the one stop float is not that much, it's just that you are already at the extremes wide open on a bright sunny day.

 

ISO 200 is full blown as low as she goes :-)

 

So the camera is trying to do what it decides to do, rather than changing your shutter speed it's floating the ISO off of the base of 200.

 

That's my 2 cents on what the camera is doing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...