Jump to content

X-T2 and Auto ISO


KMLNewYork

Recommended Posts

This past week when taking pictures in full sun using a 50mm f/2 in aperture priority mode and auto ISO, I found that the camera would set the ISO to 400 even though the shutter speed went as high as 23,000. On some photos the ISO was set to 200 but I could not determine why it set some to 400 and some to 200. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this happens?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Were you at F2?

 

Full sun @ f2 is tough, so to speak, on the ability of the camera to expose.

 

Simply put, that's freaking bright out @f2.

 

Even at 2.8

 

If you are wide open or close to it:

 

The camera/metering system is floating the ISO to it's lowest allowance in RAF, ISO 200.

 

I'm guessing wide open at F2 on a bright sunny day has got you well into electronic shutter...

 

A bright sunny day @ ISO 200 at F2 is a shutter speed of 1/12,800 which is beyond the mechanical shutter of 1/8000th (using the old bright sunny day rule of 1 ASA at f16)

 

You are on the outer limits of what the camera wants to do so it starts floating the ISO starting at ISO 200 and then 400.....in your case only one stop....which is wholly accountable and likely due to variances in what you are exposing on, as the previous poster indicated.

 

Regardless the one stop float is not that much, it's just that you are already at the extremes wide open on a bright sunny day.

 

ISO 200 is full blown as low as she goes :-)

 

So the camera is trying to do what it decides to do, rather than changing your shutter speed it's floating the ISO off of the base of 200.

 

That's my 2 cents on what the camera is doing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • FYI Update - I just learned that the Zoom F6 & F3 recorder/mixers also synch to the UltraSynch Blue over bluetooth. I am planning to record 32bit float on the F6 and it will have frame accurate matching time-code with my two-XH2S' and one XH2.
    • Hopefully these will help some. For quite a while now Apple has put stuff into their operating system so that you cannot yourself open the connected camera’s card and see the images, you have to use their or third party software to do that.
    • Thanks for the instructions:  I was doing up to 3 successfully but can't wait to get home and try  4 and 5 and report back. Cheers, John
    • Okay, just for completeness sake: 1.     The camera’s menu connection setting is USB CARD READER. 2.    The computer is turned on, booted and nicely operational. 3..    With the camera turned off, connect the camera to the computer using a known-to-be-good USB C data plus power cable (a data only cable should work as well, a power only cable will not work). 3.   The camera’s charging light may turn on. Turn the camera on. The back screen probably will show the USB symbol as well as the USB letters. 4.    Start up the Image Capture app and see if the camera’s name appears in the devices list. 5.    In the Apple menu, select ‘About This Mac’, click on the ‘More Info…’ button, and on the right hand side of the window that opens, at its bottom is a button called ‘System Report…’, click on it. A new window should open, the left hand side has collapsible dropdown listings, the first is called “Hardware’, within it is the USB listing, select that. The right side pane should give you listings of all the USB devices connected at that moment, one of them should say something like USB PTP Camera. Does either 4. or 5. work?
    • Thanks, Yes I knew about the USB issue in newer Macs and macOS but that is why I tested it with High Sierra as well. Also the fact that every other camera easily connects via USB direct with the camera - definitely points out the fact that it is a FUJI specific problem.  Furthermore - I remember being able to direct connect early last year. I rarely take the Cards OUT of the camera  these days. The weird thing is I can connect my iPhone 15 via USB-C to 100s and pull files directly - puzzling. Problem is FUJI rarely listens to anyone.    
×
×
  • Create New...