Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Microfiber or lens pen is fine (if clean of course)

 

You will have an easier time if you remove the eyecup which is simple to remove IF you lift up the LCD screen on lift from the bottom...

 

It's almost impossible to remove the eyecup if you leave the LCD down.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 years later...

I have been cleaning my X-S10 EVF with Zeiss Lens Wipes, and today I noticed I color difference in some spots… definitely looks like a coating is missing and I am hella bummed, I just assumed the best cleaning cloth would do it no harm but clearly not. What would be the course of action for me to fix it?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure what the fix is other than sending it to Fuji if it bothers you that much.  I am going to m make an assumption that this has zero effect on picture taking, so if it were me I'd leave it alone.

Now, with that having been said how often do you clean it?  My XT1 is nine years old and I can count on one hand the number of times I've cleaned the EVF.  And, to clean it I use a soft brush, to brush any dust away, and if it's smudged, I use a Q-Tip with 1/2 drop of glass cleaning fluid.  So in other words, I don't clean it too often.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The coatings are typically extremely durable, and I would be surprised if you were able to damage/strip it with a zeiss cleaning wipe.   The variation in appearance may be from any number of things such as dried surfactant of some kind.  I’d look at using a q-tip or pec pad with eclipse.   

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/5/2017 at 2:55 PM, smokey said:

Just double confirming since the evf looks like coated with some orange substance

I've never thought about it before but it makes sense for viewfinders to be coated just like lenses and filters, although probably not to the same standard. Coatings usually give an orange or purple tinge when viewed at an angle. I assume it's the same effect you see in soap bubbles or oil on water.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the window on the EVF is acrylic.  So blow off any dirt or dust and use a lens cloth.  Maybe damped a bit with water if needed.  I would not use lens cloths (the kind in sealed packs that are wet).  On my XT3 I noticed some coating coming off, or haze from scratches. 

 

Edited by sixtygp
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I cleaned my EVF (X-T5) with a little lens cleaner and a soft cloth (in response to the replies above, it had managed to get very dusty / mucky but a gentle clean removed most of the coating very easily as well as collected muck). It probably makes no difference to taking a picture, yet at the same time it must be there for a reason. Does anyone know what its function is and does it make any difference that I have removed most of it

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

? Like 1_forest_1 I'm a bit p***ed that it came off so easily.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...