Jump to content

Fujifilm XT-5 External Charger

agh55

By agh55
in Fuji X-T5 / Fuji X-T50

 Share

Recommended Posts

agh55 Rookie

agh55

Posted
Posted

Hi, I have just purchased a new XT-5, upgrade from the XT-3 and I'm keen to purchase an external charger. I think continually charging the battery via the Camea and opening the small door could prove a problem after time. Can anyone in the forum recommend an external charger, thanks? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
jerryy Grand Master

jerryy

Posted
Posted

The new approach from SmallRig and soon-to-be-released by Viltrox of putting a USB-C connector in the battery and plugging the charge cable into the battery looks like it is catching on. It sounds like it might be holding up long term.

FujiRumors has an article about batteries, but only in-directly touches on the approach.

https://www.fujirumors.com/viltrox-np-w235-orders-available-now/

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
cpm Newbie

cpm

Posted
Posted

I bought a Hahnel ProCube2 for Fuji.  My local shop had one in stock.  Dual charger.  Changeable holders for AA,AAA, Li-ion.  LED displays at front showing charge level.  It comes with universal electrical plugs, and a plug-in for automotive use.

I'm happy with it.  It's not cheap, but it looks and works very well.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
HC-110 Rookie

HC-110

Posted
Posted (edited)

I also bought that charger ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08BYB4H1C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details ) (but from a different brand: Patona).

I was already annoyed, when I opened the box of my new X-T5 and then no charger inside. Fuji sells that original charger for extra $$$, but then the power adapter is missing. Why? I am buying a camera, not a phone or a tablet or whatsoever. So please give me the charger.

Then I opted for the above one, together with 2 batteries. Same price than the Fuji charger alone without 2 "free batteries". No problems at all. And what's cool, that charger is "slow", 4 to 5 hours for a complete charge. So it does not fry the batteries.

Edited by HC-110
link
Link to post
Share on other sites
Ginger Newbie

Ginger

Posted
Posted

A power adapter ist supplied with the X-T5, use this for the original Fuji charger. Works great, charges fast without heating the battery.
With all my previous cameras I used 3rd party batteries, mostly patona. The newer blue patona ones claimed to be compatible with NP-W126s. 1 of 3 was not compatible. Some older ones, not the newer blue ones, ballooned. Thankfully not in camera. The original ones never ballooned. This made me use the original ones with priority, and the others only as spares when I ran out of charged original ones. Now with the NP-W235s I only use original batteries and chargers. Not that much more expensive, even more compared to camera and lens cost. The extra $$ give me at least a good feeling.

Link to post
Share on other sites
HC-110 Rookie

HC-110

Posted
Posted

I was also always someone who bought original batteries because of safety and confidence.

But unfortunately I have cameras where original batteries simply no longer exist ( thank you Nikon). So I bought Patonas for my D700 and D2x. The experience was rather good.

That's why I also bought the Patonas (protected) for the X-T5. I was so fed up with the missing charger that I said: no Fuji, no more money. I am so disappointed.

Left the X- T5 at home today and did my train shots on HP5 today. Will spend the evening in the darkroom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • thelostkiwi
      Looking for Full Frame lenses to adapt to GFX

      By thelostkiwi · Posted

      I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Thank you. I will research it.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...