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GordW

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  1. As Owlpellets1973 mentions, Capture One has discontinued the Express (free) version, and the link you provide eventually sends one to a C1 webpage where there is a 3-month free offer. After that, you need to pay for either a perpetual license or a subscription to C1. Luckily I purchased a perpetual licence of C1 23 Fujifilm last year. Sorry, but I can't speak to any free alternatives worth considering. If you are looking for a free RAW converter, Adobe Camera RAW will convert the .RAF files to .DNG. There's always Adobe Photoshop Elements, which is a less expensive program that is a 'light' version of Lightroom/Photoshop. The nice thing about Photoshop Elements is that it's a one-time purchase (no recurring subscription charges).
  2. If you are running macOS Sonoma 14.1 (or later), it is a known issue. It has to do with the legacy drivers that Fujifilm uses. I've been waiting since updating for Fujifilm to update their webcam app. It's been a while now. https://fujifilm-x.com/global/global-news/2023/1122_4235161/
  3. I can't recall if PhotoBooth is an app that X-Webcam supports. On the Fujifilm website it mentions that only some apps have been tested as being compatible: (Google Meet (Chrome/Edge*), Teams (Chrome/Edge*), Skype (Chrome/Edge*), Zoom (Chrome/Edge*/App), Messenger Rooms (Chrome/Edge*), LINE, OBS Studio *Chromium Edge ) X-Webcam requires the camera's connection setting in a specific mode. Look for one of these settings in your camera menu... CONNECTION SETTING in the setup menus *2 PC CONNECTION MODE USB TETHER SHOOTING AUTO CONNECTION MODE USB TETHER SHOOTING AUTO PC SHOOT MODE USB AUTO Also, there is a menu setting to change whether you are shooting tethered or want to use the camera as a USB reader. To use the camera as a USB reader... https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-s20/connections/usage_usb/#transfer
  4. There is a known issue where X-Webcam does not work with macOS 14.1 (14.0 is OK)... https://fujifilm-x.com/global/global-news/2023/1122_4235161/ Three options are offered: Roll back to macOS 14.0, or wait for Fujifilm to provide an update, or (potentially) follow the steps here... https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT213969 G.
  5. I think you will find the mode switch (by shutter speed dial) is in "Auto". When it is the "Auto" position there is only "STD" and a few B&W film simulations. Switching that selector switch off of "Auto" should bring back all of the film sims.
  6. It's normal for an image taken with a different camera (especially with a higher megapixel count) for the images to be pixelated. The X-Pro1 is expecting 16MP images and it's processor and LCD are unable to correctly display the larger image size. The 'present' icon is advising you that the image the camera is displaying was not taken with that particular camera. (It's a 'gift' from another camera).
  7. It may sound weird, but more often than not a slow start up is the sign of an issue with the memory card. Try a few cards to see if you can narrow it down to one card in particular. Then, after copying any images you want to save off the card, re-format the card in the camera. That often resolves the issue.
  8. Previously one could download (for free) Capture One Express for Fujifilm. That would give you the latest version of C1 (with some limitations; see below) that will recognize the RAW files from your X-H2S. As previously mentioned, there is no way to get C1 Version 20 to recognize the .RAF files from your X-H2S. The nice thing there would not be much of learning curve for you see you already are using C1, compared to using SilkyPix. Here's a link that compares the Express version with Pro... https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express/feature-list Download C1 Express Fujifilm here... https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express/fujifilm
  9. Press and hold the "DISP/BACK" button, scroll (2nd screen) to "Q" then scroll (all the way to the bottom of screen 7) to "None".
  10. Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I'm assuming you have updated the firmware to Ver. 2.00. (If not, that would be my first step). Troubleshooting steps to try... Back up your current settings to your computer using the Fuji X-Acquire software, or to your phone using the new X-App. (Assuming your have V2.0 firmware on the camera). Re-initialize the camera (in the reset menu). This will do a COMPLETE reset of the camera; you will lose ALL of your settings. You'll need to re-enter the date/time and likely have to change the saved file type to RAW or RAW+JPG; depending on your preference. Try the mechanical shutter to see if that resolved the issue. If so, restore your settings (from the backup above). If MS continues to work, great! If MS doesn't work after the re-initialization, you will need to contact Fujifilm service. If MS works after the re-initialization, but doesn't work with your restored settings, it is likely a combination of your settings that the camera doesn't like. Sometimes the Fujifilm Engineers don't try ALL of the various camera and menu settings combinations to see if there is a conflict. If it worked after the re-initialization, you'll need to re-initialize the camera again, and then change your settings one at a time until you determine what causes the MS to not properly record images. Hope that helps! If not, contact your local Fujifilm service centre to see if they can offer any additonal troubleshooting steps without having to send the camera in. They may want you to email them the backup file so they can try to replicate on another camera.
  11. The X-T30 does not support tethered stills shooting. That's reserved for the X-Tn single-digit models. If you look at the menu option closely, you will see it says "USB MOVIE SHOOTING AUTO".
  12. GordW

    Firmware 1.03

    Set the dial to "T" to be able to change the shutter speed using the rear command dial.
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