Jump to content

X-E2 NEEDS a new update and here's why:


Recommended Posts

The other day I decided to cave in and put some sugru on my X-T1 buttons on the back. While letting it dry for 24 hours, and not wanting to go without a fuji camera for that long (yes, it's that bad), I pulled out my trusty X-E2, which is my backup for portrait and wedding work. 

 

While I didn't do any specific portrait or wedding work with it that day, I did have some opportunities to take some pictures at the school where I work of students in the midst of a fun activity. I've not used the X-E2 since I've gotten my X-T1 in April and I had forgotten how much I loved the sound of the X-E2's shutter over the sound of the X-T1. Something about it. However, I had also forgotten how much the X-E2 STINKS with capturing action shots. It just could not keep up with anything. This is in broad daylight and sunny conditions with 1/4000 second shutter speeds and apertures of 2.8 and smaller! The autofocus is just not there. In fact, I wouldn't hesitate to say that I've gotten better manual focus action shots with a 3rd party lens on the X-E2 (See this post: http://abjurina.tumblr.com/post/105967813309/manual-focusing-yes-please about that). 

 

I'm really crossing my fingers about improved autofocus with this next update or it might be "goodbye X-E2, hello X-T10". Man, I love the sound of that shutter though! :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice pictures on your site BTW, looks really pro.

 

Maybe instead of getting angry at camera x not behaving like camera y you could have tried reducing shutter speed to say 1000, and use a smaller f-stop to get a wider dof and increase the size of the AF square, it helps a lot with AF speed on the X-E models. I doubt you were manual focusing sport at f/2 in the past?

Link to post
Share on other sites

@citral, thanks for the compliment. The answer to your question about adjusting my settings to suit the autofocus is simple: I like using shallow DOF in sports to help separate the main action from the other athletes or distractions. If I have to improve autofocus by compromising my settings to get what I want, then the autofocus system is not ready for prime-time. At least not for action. I say this because I never had to do this on Canon and Nikon gear. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that Fuji makes a bad camera. I LOVE the X-E2, but it's not a great sports camera with it's current autofocus system. The X-T1 on the other hand (and probably the X-T10) handles action much more responsibly. This is my point. I'm hoping that fuji gives the X-E2 the autofocus a boost. I'm also not "angry" about it. I like to say I'm hopeful. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well my point is the X-E line has never been advertised or intended as sport cameras, so while there are some workarounds, it's never gonna be that great. Asking Fuji to adjust is just like asking Burton hey guys, I bought this freestyle snowboard and I can't win speed races with it please update.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@ Citral

 

If it's technical possible why not asking for!?! (Don't compare it with things which can't be updated because it isn't technical possible!)

Formerly technical things was build for a lifetime. Why not today? Some people don't want to buy the newest stuff year after yaer after year...

So an update (within the realms of possibility) is a good thing I think! You can keep your old gear and also keep it to the highest, possible standard. (I know that this isn't in mind of a  profit making company)

At the X-E2 there aren't only AF issues when shooting sport. There are also these AF issues when it comes to low light situations. And that is where the camera shines!!! The low light performance is amazing (except the AF). So maybe with the new AF update this could get fixed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you are also right. In a way I'm in contradiction with myself because I hate the "wow it's all new NEED it" hype and buy most of my stuff when it's 2nd gen. My car is a 1992 Mercedes to give you an idea about what I think of the short-lived products, designed to fail eventually, plaguing our times.

 

So yes, I'd like updates and longer life expectancy, but at the same time I want Fuji to do well so I can be confident investing in more glass, and think it's the greater good in the end.

 

And I bought the X-E1 pretty much as a finished product, not expecting anything different than what it was. I think it's the most reasonable way to think.

Link to post
Share on other sites

while attending a Fuji product presentation a few days ago, I heard from the company reps what I was hoping to hear about an upcoming major firmware upgrade for the X-E2. It will be a great "new" camera with the latest FW release in a few months.With the AF updated and a few other useful tweaks to FujiFilm's latest standard (X-T10), it will be a fantastic camera!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I do hope they have some of the improvements you get with the X-T1. Not so much the electronic shutter but the improved autofocus algorithm would be a real treat. If the electronic shutter comes too, well, that'd be a real bonus.Fact is, apart from the EVF, the underlying platform (CPU etc) of both cameras is the same so I don't see why it should be difficult to have al the improvements enjoyed in the X-T1 - apart from the EVF goodies of course.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would love to see that it's possible to set the current used aperture of (old/third party) "none connected" lenses. So it will be displayed in the EXIF data.

The Leica M does this by guesstimating the f-stop, based on the brightness measured by the TTL meter and the ambient light sensor. The guesstimated f-stop is usually within ±1 EV of its actual value but can be further off the mark if filters are used, for example, so it is far from reliable. And as the X-E2 doesn’t feature an ambient light sensor, it wouldn’t be possible to adapt this solution anyway.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Leica M does this by guesstimating the f-stop, based on the brightness measured by the TTL meter and the ambient light sensor. The guesstimated f-stop is usually within ±1 EV of its actual value but can be further off the mark if filters are used, for example, so it is far from reliable. And as the X-E2 doesn’t feature an ambient light sensor, it wouldn’t be possible to adapt this solution anyway.

 

Interesting!

But I just want to set it manually e.g. with the command dial. It is useless when old lenses are attached so why not give it this optional function?!

Link to post
Share on other sites

But I just want to set it manually e.g. with the command dial.

Now this would be relatively easy to implement (but still require some resources) but how many photographers would want to fiddle with a thumb wheel or whatever whenever they change the f-stop with the aperture ring? As usual it is a matter of evaluating (Usefulness of a feature * Number of users for whom it would be useful) / Resources required for implementing it. It doesn’t look too promising to me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

how many photographers would want to fiddle with a thumb wheel or whatever whenever they change the f-stop with the aperture ring?

 

It just should be optional. So you can choose by yourself if you use it or not.

 

And by the way this should not cause any discussion here. I just wanted to share my wishes for an update!

Link to post
Share on other sites

It just should be optional. So you can choose by yourself if you use it or not.

Of course such a setting would be optional (by its very nature) and I am neither fore nor against implementing it. I only wanted to point out that it isn’t very likely for Fuji to seriously consider such a feature.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd be happy about the auto macro switch also, together with the ability to use the left and right buttons as function buttons...

When I think about: I'd like to have all possible features coming with FW 4.0 for the X-T1 in my X-E2 also! :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with the OP; any autofocus improvements would be welcome. The top three improvements I would like to see are;

(1) Allow the spot meter to be coupled to the AF point (X-T1 got this update last year). I challenge anyone to explain to me why they would use spot metering and want the centre to be arbitrarily exposed properly rather than their focus point.

 

(2) Option to make the macro function redundant. If someone at Fuji thinks "but we wrote macro on that button", never fear! I will gladly use a black pen to remove that writing from my X-E2.

 

(3) Option for the command dial to directly control autofocus point (X-T1 got this last year).

 

I really think the combination of these three updates would make my camera better for shooting people than a 16% improvement in AF-C mode.
 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...