Jump to content

Firmware updates - Need a card reader?


BJP

Recommended Posts

Hello - I just purchased a used X-T4 and lens and want to up,date the firmware for each.  All the instructions I see say that you need to download the firmware and then transfer the download to your SD card through a card reader.  I don't have a card reader, so is there any reason why I can't just have the card in the camera and plug the camera into the computer for the transfer?  Sorry if it's a silly question... Thanks very much.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

All - I got the card reader so that I could do the firmware update.  Unfortunately, when I try to download the firmware for either the body or the lens, it turns out to be editing software rather than firmware.  Not at all sure what that is about.  Has anyone else encountered this?  The name of the download is FSUP0024.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Because of time zone differences, @Greybeard might not be seeing your post until later.

You do not need to click on the file, doing that will not cause it to update your camera.

The basic idea is you put the sd  card in the card reader which is connected to your computer, copy the file to the card (drag and drop it onto the card icon). put the card back into the camera, turn the camera on while holding down certain buttons. Doing that sequence will start the process going.

Here are specific instructions:

https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/procedure-x-interchangeable-ver2/

And with that, @Greybeard should eventually be back, I believe there is some sort of holiday going in in his home country at the moment, so see if the instructions make sense.

p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you - and thanks for the welcome! 

I had found the instructions, but just don't understand how a software editing package equals firmware.  I grant you, though, that I am not the most sophisticated when it comes to tech....

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

When you click (double-click) on a data type of file, your computer’s operating system tries to decide which program should be ran to work with that data. If the system cannot decide, it starts up a program it thinks may be able to use the data. In your case, the computer squinted at the file (the name ends in .dat, meaning it is some kind of data file) crossed its fingers and toes, muttered under its breath and opened an editing program hoping that would be okay.

Usually, in the now-a-days computer world, clicking (double clicking) a file will be all you need to do to get an attached device to work. Cameras are standalone devices, so getting them updated from a computer would be tricky because there are so many different computer operating systems out in the world, Linux, macOS, Windows, etc., etc. Having update installers for each computer type is a lot of work.

It may seem clunky to use the ‘put the data on a card, and let the camera do the work’ approach, but the approach is much easier and less error prone overall.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Worked like a charm, once I went into my file folders and deleted all of the previous firmware downloads.  The name of the file has to be exact, it turns out - so, for instance, "FWUP24.dat (2)" won't work.  In case there is anyone who is doing this after me...

Thanks again, Jerryy and Greybeard. - b

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, BJP said:

Worked like a charm, once I went into my file folders and deleted all of the previous firmware downloads.  The name of the file has to be exact, it turns out - so, for instance, "FWUP24.dat (2)" won't work.  In case there is anyone who is doing this after me...

Thanks again, Jerryy and Greybeard. - b

Everyone makes the same mistake with the file naming - it’s a shame the camera can’t figure it out

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...