Jump to content

Recommended Posts

There isn't really any point getting the Nikon or Canon ones as you are paying a fortune for advanced features like TTL etc which you cannot use on the fujis. 

 

I am a big fan of Godox as the build quality is excellent and their radio system has never missed a single shot. they are manual only though. I can also adjust all my flash levels from my camera.

 

If its on camera you want I would wait for the new fuji flash to be released...

Link to post
Share on other sites

It really depends on how you are using flash and how much power you need.  For just a little pop, the Fuji flashes are great.  For a little more power on camera, with TTL, the Nissin is good.  For off camera, I personally prefer the Neewer TT850.

 

(Fuji X-T1, 56mm f/1.2, Neewer TT850)

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been using the the past year (lots of paid work) the Nikon mount version of the Yongnou (2 strobes) and their Tx unit that sits on the camera to fire them.  This is manual mode, not TTL ... but the mount option of the Yongnou can be Canon or Nikon.  I've had great success with the Nikon mount version.  I have read on here that the Canon works fine as well.  I have also read that Cactus units are good and maybe the Nikon or Canon mount (as you have to pick one) may not matter like the Yongnou's ... but I'm not sure.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also got the Meike MK320 recently, and am quite pleased with it. Sufficiently powerful for the photography I do, and quite versatile. I also like the fact that it doesn't feel too big on my X-T10, and only takes 2AA batteries (which seem to last forever). It even comes with a nice diffuser and together with something like the Rogue flashbender should be sufficient for most scenarios.

It DOES have a tendency to sometimes fall out of sync with the camera, but disconnecting and reconnecting it fixes this issue. Could also be problematic contacts on my X-T10, but usually it works fine...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also got the Meike MK320 recently, and am quite pleased with it. Sufficiently powerful for the photography I do, and quite versatile. I also like the fact that it doesn't feel too big on my X-T10, and only takes 2AA batteries (which seem to last forever). It even comes with a nice diffuser and together with something like the Rogue flashbender should be sufficient for most scenarios.

 

It DOES have a tendency to sometimes fall out of sync with the camera, but disconnecting and reconnecting it fixes this issue. Could also be problematic contacts on my X-T10, but usually it works fine...

 

 

I only used it once for more than few shots, and it performed pretty well. I mainly use it just a few times.

Recharge time is very low, power is sufficient, ttl works like a charm. I started the day with full batteries in the flash and full battery in the camera. The flash was on all the time, and when the camera was turned off, I didn't switch off the flash, instead I let it go to sleep mode. After about 200-250 shots (just to say again, the flash was on all the time, so it fired every time), the battery in the camera was almost empty, and the flash was still working. :) After changing the battery in camera (i have three batteries for the camera, just in case), I fired another maybe 50 shots (one remainder, I shoot raw + jpg, and that might affect the battery in camera), and then I replaced the flash batteries, just to be sure I can continue through the day, although they weren't empty yet. So, with just 2 batteries, i fired maybe 300 shots and they still weren't empty... That's a nice result!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also got the Meike MK320 recently, and am quite pleased with it. Sufficiently powerful for the photography I do, and quite versatile. I also like the fact that it doesn't feel too big on my X-T10, and only takes 2AA batteries (which seem to last forever). It even comes with a nice diffuser and together with something like the Rogue flashbender should be sufficient for most scenarios.

 

It DOES have a tendency to sometimes fall out of sync with the camera, but disconnecting and reconnecting it fixes this issue. Could also be problematic contacts on my X-T10, but usually it works fine...

 

Also sells as Neewer NW320 on Amazon.  After a few days with it It appears to work the way it should.  Can't comment yet on sturdiness and longevity. The size is appropriate to a X-E2.  The printed manual is OK if you are not too fusy about the English "translation".

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

As I said in a reply to another post, the Meike 320 works well on my X-E2 - I like it - but for some reason I cannot get it to work off the camera on a flash cord.  I can't think why this should be, but it seems to be the case nevertheless.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

What about for strobist stuff? And street photography?  Which w ould you guys get?

 

You can use whatever for strobist stuff, I have an old sb800 and sb600 and both are triggering all fine with wireless triggers.

 

As for streets, depends on your needs, again if you don't mind manual controls, then anything that can be triggered would work fine. If you need TTL, there are suddenly a lot less choices around.

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are currently 3 compatible flash units from Fujifilm, with a 4th "professional" model (EF-X500) coming this summer. There are also the Nissin i40 and and upcoming i60 (the latter with radio TTL after Fuji's promised flash firmware update). Metz also has a few models for Fuji X, so does Meike.

 

Personally, I'm waiting for the i60 system and will probably also use the upcoming EF-X500. All this after the firmware update, of course.

Edited by flysurfer
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

For manual shooting, I've used Canon and Lumopro flashes in manual control (only way with Lumopro), triggered by Phottix Strato ii wireless transmitters and receivers off the Fuji shoe.   I haven't done any TTL on Fujis.  The Lumopro is well constructed; fully up to Nikon / Canon standards, but manual only.  

 

Hope this helps.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

For manual shooting I really like the Cactus V6 and RF60 flashes. I used the Godox ones for a while, but their batteries are brand specific, so who knows someday you may not be able to replace a broken one. And they do break, I lost 2 in a few months.

 

For TTL shooting with Fuji, you could get a Nikon flash and shoot TTL with Roboshoot triggers. Nikons are never a bad investment, but unless you absolutely need TTL, they are overkill. And the Roboshoot triggers aren't cheap either.

Link to post
Share on other sites

As I said in a reply to another post, the Meike 320 works well on my X-E2 - I like it - but for some reason I cannot get it to work off the camera on a flash cord.  I can't think why this should be, but it seems to be the case nevertheless.

What flash cord are you using, they don't all work? There is some useful info here http://photomadd.com/off-camera-ttl-flash-with-the-fuji-x-series/

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I have the Nissin i40 which is very good and sit's well on my X100S/T bodies. I had the Fuji EF-42 but I was never very satisfied with the build quality for the price. I sold it and bought the Metz 44 AF-2 used mainly with my X-Pro! & X-T1, another good reason for this flash as it has the facility to allow firmware updates, that is apart from the superior metz build quality.

 

Have a good one

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nissin i40 works brilliantly. Fully recommended.

 

For Manual, I'd recommend Godox and LumoPro LP180. Both are superbly built and very reliable.

 

Canon Flash Cords are fully compatible with Fujifilm compatible flashes.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you really can't live without as much automatic help as possible, the i40 is your best bet.

If you can live with/only use manual control and don't have much money to spend, go with Yongnuo or Neewer, or buy up old flashes and use generic Canon triggers; Canon triggers and cords work with Fuji.

 

If you can live with/only use manual control and you have a fair bit of money to spend, get into the Cactus system. More control than any other system—an update should be coming soon to add HSS as well—and it's compatible with basically everything.

If you can live with/only use manual control and you have a lot of money to spend, just buy more Cactus units. As far as Fuji goes, it's literally the best system, hands-down. More expensive Canon/Nikon units are less functional with Fuji cameras than the Cactus system is, so don't bother.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If all you want to do is move a manual speedlight (or up to eight) off your camera farther than a short cord can reach, try the FlashQ. It's quite cheap compared to other radio remote triggers because it has almost no controls or features. And it's ridiculously tiny -- both the transmitter and receivers are about as small as is physically possible to connect to a hot shoe. Really. (You can use included short PC cables if you don't mind the little things just dangling off your lights.)

 

I finally got mine today after the USPS got bored with randomly shipping the package from Hong Kong around the US. I've tested them (I got the 2-receiver kit) in a cursory way, and they successfully fire a Yongnuo 560 from my X-E2s. Not a tool for a serious light maven, but all I'll ever need.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Get the Nikon flashes if you want to pay a fortune for functionality you cannot use. I recently picked up some Yongnuo YN560 IV and the YN560 TX for Canon systems. At $70 you can't beat the power you get with them. They're manual, you can control their power and zoom from the transmitter on the hot shoe, and plenty powerful. I've never had an issue with them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • Hy there When Im using the fan001 on the XH2s and I flip the LCD Screen vertically by 180 degrees then the image flips vertically, what is good but it also flips horizontally. The clean feed on HDMI is not flipping horizontally but its also flipping if the HDMI output info display is on. When I unmount the fan then the image flips only vertically. My firmware is updated to the latest version. Any ideas if there is a fix for that?
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • No - I don’t think so - it means you can take pictures if you remove the lens completely - but I’m not sure that is a problem
    • I bought a manual lens over xmas and it took me a while to find the "shutter w/o lens" function in the menu settings.  So far I haven't found a way to either put that on the Q menu or marry that setting to one of the 4 custom modes.   Am I missing something? Is there a problem if I just leave that setting enabled even when the OEM auto lens is in place? tia
×
×
  • Create New...