Wing0949

I think Arte di Mano, Luigi & Angelo Pelle are all expensive choices.. be them nice, but I think you're pushing at least $200, maybe even $300 depending on how custom you have them make it. I went with Kenji myself.. looking forward to receiving it soon.

I've been looking around for a while, also. I asked Angelo Pelle and they said they were working on one, but they said they could not make a full wrap version due to the way the back was rearranged compared to the X-Pro1.. strange, cause Kenji looks like they did it and it looks pretty nice and precision. I eventually ordered one from Kenji. I like the workmanship and customizability. In general, he offers certain colors, but when I talked to him and asked him about a photo he showed me on the X-Pro2, it turns out he had a grey leather version.. which was exactly what I was looking for.. I was interested in the olive green, but it looked a bit too dark and saturated.. I wanted something more grey and muted in tone and the grey version seem to fit the bill.. a nice color which matches should match decently well with a grey leather strap I have on the X-Pro2 now. I believe he said the grey he has may appear to have some green tone to it.. that's fine. It shipped late last week so looking forward to receiving it soon. FYI, needed about a 2-3 week time to complete.. I think it was completed in about 2 and shipped. I will try and post some pics of it once I get it. It looks pretty nice being it can wrap around the entire camera with opening for the lcd and buttons & joystick. I don't mind that the sd card door is not immediately accessible.. I don't go into that often and don't mind taking off the cover when I would need to. I think I like the fact there is now going to be an opening where the AF-L & Q buttons are which I feel makes it easier to feel out the location of the AF-L button.. I think Fuji made them a little too flushed with the body so it's hard to blindly feel for them. Had a battery door opening made cause I know the X-Pro2 requires more battery access than not. I also had tripod mount put in.. looks like a nice touch and it does line up with the original tripod hole so it should be centered with the lens as it is. The quality and thickness of the leather looks good, however, at the same time my only concern would be the rear command dial.. it's already rather recessed and not exactly the easiest to push all the time.. the leather strip that runs close across near the control dial hopefully will not be too close and thick that will further inhibit accessibility to the rear control dial... will see soon. All in all, it appears to be a great fit and cut for the X-Pro2.. I've followed his stuff for a while and the past products also look really good, so I think he's had experience to further refine the end product. The next half case I was interested in was Kaza-Deluxe. I purchased a set from them for my X10 way back. It's good quality and for average $99 for a set with matching strap, it's a pretty good bargain. I was waiting for them to get their X-Pro2 line out, but in the end Kenji beat them to the punch. I have to admit I like their choice of colors.. the blue and military green are nice and out of the normal and "safe" black or brown leather cases you'll typically fine. Their vintage brown is nicely done as well. Also, like most other half cases, other than Kenji, the Kaza-Deluxe one primarily covers the front and bottom with just the front edges along the sides.. the rest is open and uncovered.. I understand this is for accessibility, you can access all your doors and have buttons and screen and everything unobstructed.. but, on the other hand, I feel I'm not getting the full package.. it's like getting half of a half case.. which really makes it a 1/4 case, does it not? Although potentially less convenient, I now prefer the half cases that more fully wrap around the camera.. it provided fuller protection and from more angles other than mainly just the front, it looks complete and classier. ... straggling comment, I wonder if the photos you see at the top of the quote I'm referencing is the grey version? could be.. it looks more grey than green unlike some of the other photos in this topic's posts.

Will Lensbaby composer work with a FLR(Focal Length Reducer)/Speedbooster adapter? I was thinking about this product for a while and curious if anyone might have experience or know if this is even possible. I was thinking of getting the lensbaby composer for Canon EF mount. I was also thinking of getting a Canon EF to Fuji X Speedbooster Adapter from Fotasy. I am thinking and hoping that with this combination, I can achieve a few things: 1) Getting the focal length closer to 35mm full frame (has focal length reducer of 0.72x, e.g. 50mm x 1.5 x 0.72 = 54mm.) 2) Getting the aperture performance also closer to 35mm full frame 3) With above benefits, I believe there will be less cropping of the final image and therefor you will have even more of the special blur and sweet spot effect and may actually have more area within the frame to adjust and compose a unique shot. What do you think? Should or will it work? Or, because of the nature and physical design of how a speedbooster (essentially a focal length reducer) works, it will not translate so smoothly as I am hoping or anticipating? I just want to make the purchase more worth it.. otherwise, if you get the exact Fuji X mount, you will not inherit the full benefits and effects of the lensbaby because of the crop.. and I feel a lot of the effectiveness of the lensbaby effect has to do with how much you can pinpoint the sweet spot focus in relationship to how much more the everything outside of the sweet spot is uniquely thrown out of focus. Get my meaning and where I'm coming from? I feel the combination should work, as well. I know you can use a plain hollow-tube adapter and it should work, but you still get the crop factor.. I might as well just get the Fuji X mount version... But, I'd like the option to keep as close to lens's original 35mm full frame focal length and aperture. So, I am hoping that a FLR/Speedbooster that has that extra lens element in it doesn't some how prevent the effects of using a lensbaby from transferring through. I don't believe it will as more of the image from the lensbaby will go onto the X trans sensor.. should be relatively as simple as that. Thanks if any insight or your thoughts.

Hmm.. ok, then I guess you must use TTL Auto on your flash unit if you want rear curtain sync... no manual flash power setting on the flash unit. I wonder if other camera brands are the same?.. i'm gonna kind of answer this one.. got an answer on another website.. apparently Canon and Nikon allow manual flash with rear curtain sync. And, I'm sure there are so many camera & flash combinations, anything can be possible (or not)... although, I believe Canon (& Nikon) have their own unique flash system which allows special flash functions which aren't possible on other cameras. surprising, yet not surprising.. the one downside of Fuji has been their flash system.. I believe they are working on improving it.. we shall see with the EF-X500, whenever that comes out. .. oh, well.. at least I know what I need to check on my Fuji system and set my flash to in order to get the option to do rear curtain sync. Thanks, again.

Yeah, weird.. I would totally expect manual flash mode to be usable with rear curtain sync.. camera should just send a signal to the flash later towards the end of the exposure, just before the shutter closes, to fire, right? Anyways, I'd be interested to know if this phenomena was limited to the x-pro2 and my combination of flashes.. or, do you also experience with whatever other gear you have as well. Thanks.

Ok, so I played with my flash on the X-Pro2 again I think I figured it out.. I have to say there doesn't seem to be any documentation that would tell you this, but apparently you have to have flash set to TTL Auto and not Manual in order to select slow sync, rear curtain flash and commander flash modes. So, only TTL Auto on the flash will allow you to select slow sync, rear curtain flash and commander flash modes.. in addition to the normal flash (first curtain) of course. If your flash is set to manual power, then you cannot select slow sync, rear curtain flash and commander flash modes. I have to admit I'm a little surprised by this.. didn't think setting flash to manual power would affect and prevent you from selecting slow sync, rear curtain flash and commander flash modes. Again, I am using the Fuji EF-X20 flash. I also have a Cactus V6 Flash.. I can use on a Fuji body, but it can only be used in manual mode, as well. Putting the Cactus on the X-Pro2, I see I have options for Flash, Rear Curtain Flash & Commander Flash modes, Slow Sync Flash does not even show up as an option. HOWEVER, only flash (first curtain) & Commander Flash modes fire and seem to work.. I can set to rear curtain flash, but the flash will not fire... so, to back up my conclusion using the Cactus V6 flash which can only be used in manual flash mode on Fuji bodies, you cannot select and use rear or slow sync flash modes with manual flashes. I suspect other flashes (which I do not own) such as the Fuji EF-42, EF-20, the upcoming EF-X500 and 3rd party brands like Nissin i40 & RoboShoot flashes will do the same thing and not allow you to select and use rear curtain flash or slow sync flash (& in some cases even commander flash) modes while flash is in manual mode... only TTL Auto mode will allow you those flash mode options.

I know.. Like I was trying to describe the situation above.. I was simply in single shot doing long exposure in full manual mode.. that's it.. it should just work, I'm simply adding a flash to the shot, but all options but flash on and flash off were either greyed out or not even available.. and I know I've used and had the options available before. The flash was definitely on as I was able to still take flash photo.. just not rear/2nd curtain.. only normal first curtain, but that's not the effect I was going for.. frozen image when flash taken is at the beginning of exposure and blur is moving forward from that point on.. looks shifted or in reverse.. that's why I wanted to try rear/2nd curtain so it fires at the end and looks correct with frozen image with blur trailing, not leading. Anyways.. will have to experiment at home later and see what's up.

I know about this and how to set 2nd (rear) curtain sync. My question and issue is I was not even allowed to set that. Only options I had when I had the ef-x20 on top the x-pro2 was flash on and flash off.. that's it. I could not set to any other mode.. and like page 155 in manual describes what conditions would restrict me from using or setting particular flash modes, I did not meet any of those restrictions so I should have been able to set 2nd (rear) curtain sync.

This could be a general flash question, but since I have an X-Pro2, I'm throwing it here. Was out shooting on the streets and trying to do a long exposure at some busy intersections at night. I tried several shutter speeds for various effects.. Then I remember I had my little EF-X20 flash.. I didn't need much light, but I wanted to at least try to freeze the action a bit in some shots. And, I know I wanted to use rear curtain flash so the flash fires just before the end when the shutter fully closes. This way the subjects would have blurry streaks in back of them instead of in front (which happens with normal flash as it fires at the beginning of action, not the effect which makes things look like they are more moving backwards). But, I just could not set the flash mode to fire rear curtain flash (or slow, or any other mode).. only flash off or flash on.. all the other options were either greyed out or possibly not even available, can't remember exactly, but in either case all the other flash modes were not available for me. I know i was in mechanical shutter only and no silent mode on.. hell, I don't think the X-Pro2 even has a silent mode (unlike the previous X-Pro1).. you have to manually enable or disable things like sounds, flash and af illuminator to set "silent mode" on the x-pro2.. which personally can be tedious task instead of just holding the display/back button to auto enable all those.. but, i digress.. anyways.. I had mechanical shutter on and no silent mode which are essentially the 2 things which would actually only disable using flash totally.. and I was able to use flash.. just not set the flash mode. really frustrating.. could not figure it out.. I was in full manual as well. And, I'm looking at page 155 in the X-Pro2 manual to see the table/chart on restrictions on camera settings and to be honest, there aren't many really for flash. I'm not a flash expert at all, that's why I was experimenting, but I figure what I was trying to do was pretty straightforward concept. Maybe there's a combination of settings that's preventing me from adjusting and setting my various flash modes? Anybody have any ideas?

Parallax error is going to be with any rangefinder system.. real or simulated, using the OVF. Should not get it if it's going to be an issue.. You're really better off with the X-T1 or upcoming X-T2.. if you want the next latest and greatest.. though, a less expensive, but nearly just as good options are the X-T10 and X-E2 (& X-E2S). That being said, I love and try to use the OVF on my X-Pro2 as often as possible. The parallax issue really isn't as big a deal as you may think or anticipate. For the most part, it mostly effects closer range focusing.. the simulated bright frame lines do a good job of approximating the edges of your intended composition. At longer distances, you won't even notice the difference in how the framelines adjust after you've focused. You really shouldn't be using the OVF if you intend to do really close up shots.. quickly switch to the EVF for precise framing. OVF is not for everyone.. I personally find it fun to try and master... I would forewarn you that if you're not use to the type of shooting with parallax error, it may be frustrating and you may find you may want to just use the EVF more often than the OVF.. The EVF really is superior in most respects, you better see exactly what you will get and the keeper rate is usually higher, BUT, it's refreshing to change the way you shoot with the OVF.. you have to imagine the scene you want to capture more and what you see will never be 100% what you get in the final image.. which is actually a nice surprise.. 1, surprise in what you thought your would get and what you actually did get and it still looks good.. 2, surprise when you see and get pretty much exactly what you imagined and were aiming for and essentially nail the shot with the OVF. In regards to lenses, I have exactly the same ones using on my X-Pro2.. 18mm f2, 35mm f/2 & 56mm f1.2.. I'd like to go wider, but holding off simply because anything wider than 18mm the OVF won't be able to represent and anything longer than 56mm will get too small to be of any use.. you might be able to squeeze and use the 90mm f/2.. but that's about as far as you may want to go on the tele end. Waiting for an updated 23mm f/2 (which I imagine should be about the same form factor as the 35mm f/2).. I also picked up a 27mm f2.8 recently.. I miss the aperture ring, but I got it to enjoy the most compact and lightest form for the XP2.. and as a general purpose lens, I find the 40mm-ish 35mm equivalent focal length really ideal.. not too tight, not too wide. Great for when you just don't want to carry even a small bag and kit and just keep the XP2 with 1 lens close to you with least physical protrusion and weight dangling off your neck, wrist or pocket (depending on how you plan to carry it on it's own). I would imagine if you were a Canon shooter, it's more likely you'd be more pleased with the upcoming X-T2 if you're willing to wait for it. The design and versatility is better transition than to a rangefinder style camera.

Optically inferior? I wouldn't say so, but then again I don't have the 18-55 to compare and using the X-Pro2, I prefer primes anyways and appreciate the extra stop at f/2. On the newer bodies, especially on the X-Pro2, it's really fast to focus so you shouldn't have any problems there. It's a great all around lens if you're into the 28mm (35mm equivalent) focal length. I was going to sell mine in favor of going even wider like the 14mm f/2.8 or even the 16mm f/1.4, but I decided to keep it after ordering my X-Pro2 and haven't regretted keeping it. I brought 3 primes on a recent trip to Hong Kong.. the widest being the 18mm, and I also brought the 35mm f/2 for mid-range & 56mm f/1.2 just to get that extra reach. I thought I'd use the 35mm f/2 as my go to lens for the majority of the trip, but I was wrong and ended up using the 18mm for probably at least 80% of the trip. It's just so versatile and in a dense city like Hong Kong with tall buildings and people in close quarters, the 18mm made a lot of sense. Besides being able to capture more in 1 shot and help provide more context to the image, I found even if I had space to try and shoot further away from my intended subject using the 56mm or even the 35mm, the city was so packed with people all the time, there was always going to be somebody running into my shot a good lot of the time.. so, the 18mm forced me get in closer to my subject and was able to capture more unobstructed image than my other 2 lenses. A great thing about getting closer to subject is you can offset the subject in the composition so it wouldn't even seem like you could be aiming the camera at them, or rather framing them into the image as your intended subject, and take the shot with surprisingly little disturbance to the scene. Sure, you could do this by setting the 18-55mm zoom to 18mm, but I also appreciate the extra stop of light and just that bit of extra shallower depth of field to help isolate the subject and nicely blur out the background (and foreground if you have elements to do so)... plus, the 18mm f2 is just that more smaller and discreet. I love the images I got with the 18mm f2 and it's smaller size and lighter weight was great on the X-Pro2.. and you can see your aperture settings as opposed to the 18-55mm zoom which is variable so it doesn't have that feature. Some say the edges aren't as sharp wide open, but for street photography, and even some bit of portraiture, I don't think having absolute sharpness from center to the edge is essential. Really depends on the type of photography you plan to do.. the 18-55 is probably a very sensible choice as it covers so much and it does so fairly well.. But, if you prefer primes, the 18mm f/2 is not a bad way to go if you like the 28mm (35mm equivalent) focal length. Great general purpose lens and for me surprisingly more used and useful than the 35mm or even 23mm fuji lenses, especially if you want to capture more, are in crowded situations, and can or need to get closer to your subject in one of the smallest and lightest lenses. The 14mm f/2.8 is nice, but maybe a bit too wide for most occasions. I may have loved it for landscapes (cityscapes) or when I wanted a more immersive image where people were secondary to the environment. I think the 16mm f1.4 is nice, but considerably more expensive and heavier and bulkier.. but, I do like the results I'm seeing people get from it.. my next choice if money and size/weight is not an option.

Really depends on the shooter. I'd say for an all-rounder that basically cover you very well in any situation, and if you had the X-T1 (or X-T2), just need the 3 zoom: 10-24mm f/4, 16-55mm F/2.8 & 50-140mm f/2.8.. but, i'd revise the ultra-wide zoom to whatever WR version they may have.. perhaps a f/2.8 version in the future?.. Kind of think they need one to get the full WR coverage from lens to the camera body at some point. Again if all-rounder, and if you had an X-Pro2 (or similar rangefinder style camera), I personally prefer to stay with primes. One scenario would be: 18mm f/2 for you wide end, 23mm f1.4 or 23mm f2 (which should be release this year) for wider mid-range and 35mm f/1.4 or 35mm f/2 for longer mid-range. I feel the rangefinder style is best suited to wide to mid tele range of lenses only for the fact you can take advantage of both the optical viewfinder and electronic viewfinder if you're using an X-Pro. The style lends itself better to using primes and keeping within those ranges. BUT, if you enjoy and will pretty much only use the EVF most, if not all, the time, then you can use the same setup as the X-T1 (X-T2) mentioned above just as well.. though, ergonomically, the X-T bodies are better for zooms and larger lenses. Here's a nice article from FujivsFuji which may also help. http://www.fujivsfuji.com/recommended-kits/

I don't have the latest firmware update for the X-Pro2, but I can say I've noticed the power not immediately turning back on once I've just turned off the camera. I only notice this when I try to quickly turn off and on the camera immediately. When done too fast, It doesn't turn on.. so, i have to turn the switch off then on again and it turns back on. I have to try again, but I think if you wait a little after having just turned off the camera, it will turn on immediately when you turn the switch to on. Regarding OVF & EVF, I don't think it makes a difference cause I've had it happen on both occasions. Also, I don't think it makes a difference what lens is on there, although I also have the 35mm f2 & 18mm f2... and a 56mm f1.2. I think the immediate solution is not to turn the camera on and off so quickly.. either leave it on, or allow for a brief moment before turning back on.. unless this on/off problem is actually something else other than what I'm describing. BTW, I don't get any error message, it just doesn't turn on.

I haven't done the latest firmware update, but I can say I've noticed the power not immediately turning back on once I've just turned off the camera. I only notice this when I try to quickly turn off and on the camera immediately. When done too fast, It doesn't turn on.. so, i have to turn the switch off then on again and it turns back on. I have to try again, but I think if you wait a little after having just turned off the camera, it will turn on immediately when you turn the switch to on. I don't think it makes a difference what lens is on there, although I also have the 35mm f2 & 18mm f2... and a 56mm f1.2. BTW, I don't get any error message, it just doesn't turn on.

I ordered one way back as soon as the X-pro2 was announced in January 2016.. maybe even just before that?.. anyways, it was through Amazon and it was from Expert Shield. I've had Expert Shield for all my cameras and they're decent price and work very well. overall, they seem to hold up to scratches very well, though, over time you will start to see some dimpling or marks, depending on how you treat and carry your camera... but, at least it's on the shield and not on the screen.. easy to install and replace if needs be. In general, my experience has been they are very precisely cut and work as they should, do you need more than that? And, they come in both glossy and matte for anti-glare.. personally, I don't find anti-glare screen protectors that good.. they tend to make your images very flat looking and consequently, your oily nose and/or fingers will be more visible on the anti-glare than on the typically glossy finish.. that's what I think. FYI, when I finally received my x-pro2 to apply the expert shield screen protector on, it did not fit!?! one end was like 2mm longer than it should be.. what a shock as I've never had an issue with Expert Shield. I guess they did not have a chance to accurately measure the x-pro2 rear screen and confirm it before cutting and sending to me?.. I don't know.. but, I contacted Expert Shield immediately and explained the situation. Expert Shield was very quick to respond, apologized, and sent me out a replacement with the correct cut immediately.. I received the replacement within a week. This time it was cut super precise.. I mean there's practically no gap from the edge of the screen protector to the edge(s) of the screen itself.. with that in mind, you do need to be precise in your application as any side that is too close to the edge of the screen may just tough enough of the surrounding screen border and cause it to lift and not lay completely flat along the edge, thus causing an air bubble or gap because it's too tight against the screen frame/border.. if you lay it precisely in the right spot, it will lay completely flat and look really good, you won't be able to tell you even have a screen protector. hope this helps.

Gear buying like camera bags will be an ongoing process.. that is if you cherish your camera and photography as much as I or many of us do. You never know until you get it and try it for yourself. There's 3 things to consider, and none of them necessarily are related or more important to the other.. Style, Functionality & Cost. There's too much to say and so many options. I'll tell you personally, I have stuck with Wotancraft.. love their styling and build, pricey, but I personally love them and have had 7 of them. 2 paratroopers, 2 scouts, 2 avengers & 1 commander (those are the various style names, fyi). I prefer form over function, but it has to function well still and not be totally just for style. And, I would say you may not necessarily be stuck to just 1 bag.. you could get by with just 1, but in the end, I think you'll find there's a bag for different occasions.. If you work, or a serious hobbyist, then you will at least have a large bag to carry a good bulk of your gear out to the field or wherever.. But, there will definitely be times you will find having a secondary more compact bag just to carry a camera and lens (or two) would be just enough to get you by more times than not, especially if you like to bring your camera everywhere, you're going to want to leave the big heavy bag for serious work and setup at home and just keep a light compact that carries just what you need for the day. A camera bag, or bags, is purely subjective matter.. you're just going to have to find what you like and works for you.

As far as I know, and I've asked this a lot myself, there are no triggers that support HSS with the Fuji system. There just isn't any flash system that can 100% communicate with Fuji to allow HSS. Even off camera flash with TTL has very few possibility except for RoboSHOOT X.. look it up, only one that will support wireless TTL flash with the Fuji.. but, then again it's not HSS. I think the only way right now to do off camera flash with HSS is with an off camera cable.. with a flash that has HSS.. Nissin i40 is the main one that comes to mind. Keep in mind, Fuji just announced a new flash, the EF-X500, I believe, that offers HSS for Fuji X cameras.. whether it will support it wirelessly is unknown.. perhaps they may be making a matching Fuji wireless trigger system to work with this new flash and their cameras. Also, Nissin should be making a new i60 flash.. in addition to having higher guide number, it is designed to work with Nissin's own wireless trigger system.. I believe the new flash itself supports HSS, but if it can do so wirelessly is still questionable. Either way, in the very near future this year, I'd say keep an eye out and see how things develop with EF-X500 & Nissin i60... hopefully, either or both will have a way to offer off camera wireless HSS flash capability somehow.

I'm really liking the new Acros b&w film simulation.. and overall, the X-Pro2 is a great experience and both a fun and serious camera to use. Going back to the topic at hand, I'm still playing with settings and I'm not sure if I have a favorite setting with Acros. With regards to highlights, shadows and sharpening.. i'm not going to crazy here and push it a little.. I usually leave the sharpening alone, but +1 just for a little bit more. Same with highlights and shadows.. highlights I push a little more than shadows with +2 and shadows I only do +1.. I think it works, but still messing around to see what I like the most. And all this can potentially change depending on what color filter I'm using, also. It really depends on the subject and environment. I can't say one color filter works for all occasions as you may read on below on my personal experience with b&w. I've traditionally set my monochrome profile with red filter and tweaked the highlight and shadows to add contrast.. I like to take photos of people and find red generally smooths out the skin tones and hides more blemishes which make people look better. And, in most situations, for me, I find I like the contrast more, it's not super strong, which I find the green filter to be the strongest in terms of contrast for black & white. However, lately I've found myself adjusting the filters more depending on the situation. I admit I do like using the green filter for people photos, as well. It will define the face more, but at the same time enhance blemishes... which if you want to portray someone in the raw and honestly, it actually adds character to the person(s). For people, I guess if you don't mind showing imperfections and maximize texture of the skin, I would use the green filter... although, I think most people would prefer to not show their skin issues and would enjoy a smoother "kinder" rendition.. myself included. So, for that reason, I generally take photos of friends and family with the red filter... I think using the red filter also helps to lessen the appearance of wrinkles which is great for trying to maintain a more youthful look. My general exceptions on using green filter for photographing people are: 1) If I really wanted a more harsher look and to emphasize details and imperfections of the skin.. perhaps if I'm in the mood for a more grittier look. 2) Babies and children.. they're both often free of blemishes and have very smooth and perfect skin anyways, it doesn't hurt to use green filter to add some more definition and clarity to youthful faces. 3) If your model is particular well endowed with a high degree of natural beauty and perfect skin, then the green filter could serve to enhance what's already a great basis to work from I have to admit I've not personally found as much use with the yellow filter in the past.. it's always seemed to be too subtle in contrast over a standard monochrome look to make me want to use it. Although, I can understand and appreciate using yellow filter for that more subtle contrast just to give the image that tiny extra something to make it stand out a little bit more.

You're probably mostly correct for most cameras which are spec'd out to say "weather resistant" .. although, a lot of people still happen to call this weather sealed as well, which is probably not 100% accurate. However, I would not say "NO camera is sealed against pervasive weather" is true, either. I think cameras that can be fully submerged for rugged active photo shooting such as the Olympus Tough & Leica X-U (an ugly camera IMHO) cameras are a perfect example of a camera that could be considered "weather sealed" since it is pretty damn fully protected from being submerged.. can't get much more weather sealed than that.

you're welcome. I wanted to avoid being too wordy, but also wanted to try and paint as clear a picture of what Corrected AF Frame does.. it can be a little abstract until you've actually tried it and see how it works.

I've personally tried something today, hope this helps answer your questions. I have a Lexar 32GB UHS-II card (the one that is 2000x and writes up to 300MB/s) and a Fujifilm 32GB UHS-I Class 10 card (have no idea the specs, but generally it writes pretty fast at least as fast as any UHS-1 Class 10 card I've ever used). I'm currently always writing raw+jpeg. First, the UHS-II is in slot 1 and UHS-I is in slot 2, naturally. Writing raw to slot 1 and jpeg to slot 2, I noticed the led flashing while writing to continue blinking for approx. 4 seconds. I then left slot 2 empty with only UHS-II in slot 1 and took a photo with raw+jpeg and it was super fast.. 1 second or just under. I then left inserted UHS-I card into slot 1 and took a photo with raw+jpeg and it took about 3.5-4 seconds. I then inserted the UHS-I card into slot 2 and left slot 1 empty and took a photo with raw+jpeg and it took about 4-5 seconds. Lastly, I inserted the UHS-II card into slot 2 and left slot 1 empty and took a photo with raw+jpeg and it took 2 seconds. I have yet to try fully loading both slot 1 & slot 2 with the same UHS-II type card, but I surmise that the overall writing speed for raw+jpeg will still be faster than any other combination.. that's if you want to write to both slot 1 & 2 simulataneously either as backup (raw+jpeg to slot 1 & raw+jpeg to slot 2) or raw/jpeg (raw to slot 1 & jpeg to slot 2). Sure, slot 2 is not optimized for UHS-II card to use it to it's max performance, but, it is still faster than using the fastest UHS-I card effectively cutting the writing speed at least in half. I just wanted to add, just because the light was blinking and still writing for the amount of time I noted, it doesn't mean the camera was inoperable.. the new X Processor Pro is great and keeps working.. so, while it's writing, you can keep snapping shots fast.. and if you want to review the image, it can display playback near instantly as well.. I suspect as long as it's written to slot 1 first, you can access and review the image just as fast as that... i imagine the extended blinking light is while it's still writing to slot 2.

Hey, noticed something a little annoying about the X-Pro2 regarding deleting RAW + JPEG Files. I have my dual card slot setup to be RAW/JPEG, meaning RAW gets recorded to Slot 1, JPEG gets recorded to Slot 2. So, when I shoot RAW+JPEG, as I usually do, both RAW & JPEG get recorded corrected and into their respective slots, 1 & 2. Now, when I go to playback the images I have taken and I see something I want to delete, I cannot delete both RAW & JPEG files at the same time?!.. unlike previous cameras where it will delete both files for you. I'm usually set to review slot 1 with RAW file and I delete it.. but, the jpeg remains.. I have to actually switch to slot 2 and locate the same image and delete the jpeg like that. one or two pics, provided they're not buried deep or scattered widely apart amongst a large number of photos you may have take, would still be a pain in the ass to delete both unwanted RAW & JPEG files. Is there a work around this so the camera is intelligent enough to delete both RAW+JPEG files at the same time so I don't have to do double duty to clean up my sd cards? If not, looks like this needs to be addressed for future firmware update ASAP! Thanks in advance.

Me and this guy on youtube (Rediscover Film) noticed it also. And, this was on the old X-Pro1 when we noticed it.. it appears to be the same case on the x-pro2, huh? He made a video about it, see link attached here. Also, I've asked Fuji Guys, they have no answers. You would think that both 35mm f1.4 & f2 would have the same representation of the corrected AF frame, but they are significantly different. Anyways.. just have to get use to the difference.

X-T2 seems most likely worthy next purchase that will fit more of your needs than the X-Pro2 will.. but, how long is the wait?... supposedly sometime later this year.. who knows? Fuji changes dates all the time.. like the X-Pro2.. nearly extended 2 months later than expected. The X-T2 (if it's same size as X-T1) is actually smaller than the X-Pro2.. and if you don't load it with battery grip and a fat lens, it can be very small and discreet.. it should also have electronic shutter for near silent shooting as well (which the X-Pro2 has, as well). The X-T2 ticks off more boxes you care about than the ones you don't. I'm partial to the X-Pro2 personally, but I'll admit the X-T2 should have better EVF, Ergonomics & Tilt Screen... both are (or will be) discreet enough.

the widest lens you can use with the OVF is 18mm. Anything over that you can still use with the OVF, but it will tell you the field of view is wider than can be shown in the OVF so you will not get any frame lines. There are some videos out there that show what happens when you go wider than 18mm.. I think some yellow arrows point out toward the corners telling you the frame lines (that would be for 16mm, for example) fall outside and beyond the OVF. Again, you could use the OVF with 16mm and focus with it, but you will have no reference as to what exactly is being framed.. your best bet is to use the EVF with the 16mm.. or anything wider than 18mm. And, yes, the 16mm is a rather hefty built lens and it will take up more viewing space in the lower right corner of the OVF.. definitely noticeable and more than the 35mm f2... i'd imagine it would block almost 1/4 of the OVF.. maybe a little less like 1/5th of the OVF... Consequently on the other end, the X-Pro2 will only provide framelines up to 90mm.. and even then it's so small, you'd probably not going to use it and just use the EVF to frame and get the shot properly.. I've used the 56mm.. it's the next smallest frame, but I feel it's just within usable range and not a problem.