Wing0949

I've been confused and don't believe the hype that Fuji dishes us to us either. Add salt to wound, now the X-T20 has 4k?! WTF?! It's not only smaller than the X-Pro2, it's even smaller than the X-T2... and it has a tilt screen, but more on that later.. I don't do video much so it's not THAT big a deal to me, BUT, it's 2017.. even 2016, and they have over 4 years to develop the X-Pro2, no reason a modern camera can't have 4k as a given option even if it's not necessarily what the camera will be primarily intended for.. 4k should be a standard, period, and let the consumer/user decide how he or she will use it or not. Yeah, no articulating screen, for me, was lame. I have owned enough mirrorless cameras with and without a tilt/articulating screen and I can say with 100% certainty, it makes absolutely no difference to the bulk, feel or weight of the camera. Don't care what other nay sayers preach, you CAN choose to not use it and it will never get in the way or be noticed.. I'd rather have the ability to get that low or high angle shot when needed.. In my mind, if the X-Pro2 had the 3-way tilt screen as the X-T2, I don't need front facing, it would be perfect. Yeah, it seems like nearly all other X cameras can do USB charging these days, that should have been an option also included in the X-Pro2.. I have enough extra batteries charged and ready, but as a matter of convenience, having USB charging would have been a nice added touch had they implemented in the X-Pro2. yes, as some have speculated, probably all part of Fuji's elaborate scheme to make us not have all in 1 camera to buy multiple ones.. although, if you think about it, save that of the OVF, the X-T2 pretty much has it all, doesn't it? So, IDK?.. kind of unfair unbalanced feature set across Fuji X line I feel sometimes. With all that said, I still love and have only the X-Pro2 as my camera of choice for now.. it still bugs me that they could have made it 100% perfect had they added just those few touches which, leaving cost aside, from a tech and design stand point, there's no good reason why they couldn't have.

They are 2 different lenses, really. I think you should be leaning towards the new 50mm f/2. For street with faster AF and good bokeh, it's got that all for you and for a lot less $$ than the 56mm f/1.2. I have the 56mm f/1.2, but I did not hesitate to preorder the 50mm f/2 as well. The 56mm is a very nice lens, but it's quite big and heavy and not the fastest AF because of the big glass inside. I use the 56mm mainly for more serious portrait sessions. I have tried the 56mm occasionally for street and more casual photos, but I would be lying if I didn't find myself cropping out more from a scene than I wanted because I did not have the space to back up..and even if I may have had enough space to back up, I might find a clear line of site to my shot I want to make obstructed, especially when it's busy with enough people around. I know that a 50mm would have just given me that extra breathing room and closer distance to work and get some good bokeh and subject isolation. I believe in doing what I can creatively to work a scene with the tools you have, BUT sometimes you just don't have the time and convenience to do all that and need to pick and bring a long the right tool, or lens, to get the job done more efficiently.. especially if you want to maintain the flow and casualness of taking a photo more or less on the go. Have you read Ivan Joshua Loh's recent comparison? It's been referenced in Fujirumors.com recently, as well. https://ivanjoshualoh.com/2017/01/26/50mm-vs-56mm-vs-60mm/ You can't go wrong with either one of these lenses, but for the price and advantages and similar very good IQ you can get with the 50mm f/2, it seems worth serious consideration. Forget any preconceptions you might have about what some consider an odd 75mm equiv. focal length.. I think if you compose, light and thoughtfully consider your subject and the story (hopefully there is one) of the photo you want to make, this 50mm can definitely do what you need it to.

I was debating whether to do something like this for my own Fuji X-Pro2 for a while.. didn't fancy the idea sticking on anything, but I eventually succumb to the need to have better pronounced AF-L button. It's just too flushed with the thumb grip area, Fuji should have made them stick out even a little bit so you could more easily feel where the buttons actually are, but they didn't. I was trying to rely on muscle memory, and it sort of works, but there's always that bit of distraction when reaching for the AF-L button on whether I will actually hit the button, or the Q button (which is directly below it) or was just off to the side a bit enough where I wasn't able to press down on the button fully. It can sometimes take a tiny extra bit of time to seek that button out without certainty, but almost always is a distraction making me think about the action of successfully locating and pressing the AF-L button and taking my thoughts away from composing, setting exposure and making the shot. It's just that extra effort both mechanically and mentally that's been a peeve I've been meaning to remedy for quite some time. For these reasons, I had to finally purchase a 3 pack of black Sugru and add a bit of Sugru to the AF-L button to make it more pronounced to eliminate the tactile and mental/psychological issues I was having. I just did it last night and shaped and formed with some dentist tools. I think I did a pretty good job at keeping it clean and subtle and looking almost as if the camera was designed like this. In addition, I added a tiny bit to the end of the new AF joystick on the back of the camera. It's small and not exactly the most grippiest joystick so I figure some Sugru at the end could help manipulate it with more confidence. I would have added it to the AE-L button which is located more to the upper left or upper center of the camera back, but it's already in an inconvenient location, a bit too up and left for my particular hand and thumb movement, and I don't really use AE-L much anyways as I leave it to the half-press of the shutter release to do that. Perhaps, if and when Fuji makes another firmware update to make both AF-L & AE-L more customizable with other function features and not simply swapping AF-E & AE-L functions only, I may consider utilizing the AE-L button for more useful function and add some Sugru at that point. Anyways the hardest part is waiting that 24 hours for it to cure and be ready to use. It's too bad I didn't have any other projects to use the greater remaining material of Sugru on instead of letting it probably go to waste. Any idea if I keep it as tightly zip locked as possible would it hold for use in the near future? At least I have the 2 remaining unopened packs, but it's a shame to waste the larger unused portion from the 1st pack.

curious.. why the EV dial? and how were you thinking of Sugru-ing it? Like in the post above about Sugru-ing the X-Pro2?

I was messing around with this again at home and it was late and low light.. yeah, i don't think it makes a difference in AF performance.. if it does, pretty negligible. I would probably keep the 77 grid up mostly, as I have been. I don't find I need to be so particular with 273 points and moving the AF point around with 77 is a lot faster than having to maneuver through 273.

I think you'll never get a definitive answer, everyone's got a different opinion on how whether sealed the x-pro2 actually is, let alone the sync terminal area. I say whatever you believe in, go with it. If you don't think weather sealing around the sync terminal is an issue at all, then just leave alone and plain and open. If it's worth it to get the proper cap so the camera will be as it was when you took it out of the box, then go for it. I did, as I mentioned, and while I was at it got a few extra just in case since I was paying for the shipping anyways.. doesn't make much sense to pay for more shipping again if I needed another.. and I don't like waiting for small stuff like this to arrive to remedy a detail on my X-Pro2. Otherwise, improvise.. just use a balanced cut and well-placed piece of electrical or gaffer's tape. You could, as some have suggested, seal it up completely with some Sugru or other compound.

Ok, thanks for the info and your experience.

very rare, but I get that as well. again, it's so rare, it's not enough to bug me. my personal experience experience any kind of lock up or freeze of the cameras. a) setting up connection to smart phone ap or when I try to connect to Instax Share printer. most of the time it's uneventful, but I think if I do something slightly out of sequence or too hasty in control of either and don't excercise some patience when using, it can freee up and require battery removal. turn on and off and back on really fast.. it will not turn on. I thought the last firmware was supposed to have addressed and fixed this, but apparently not. I'm wondering if it has to do with the sensor cleaning performed when the camera is shutting off or on? I have to check, but I think you can set it to sensor clean when turned on only, sensor clean when turned off only, sensor clean when on and off, or not sensor cleaning.. maybe if I turned off the sensor cleaning and tried, it may not lockup up or be unresponsive when turning on off & on again very fast?

i think the question about switching between slots has been sufficiently answered. I'll just add I also like the ISO dial on the X-Pro2.. however, I won't deny that the old way on the X-Pro1 by pushing a button and setting the ISO while looking though the viewfinder (or back of the camera) was both functionally and ergonomically easier... you just didn't have to move reposition your fingers as much. Also, I find it will take some muscle memory to get used to the action of blindly lifting and rotating the ISO setting if you want to keep your eye through the viewfinder.. lifting the ISO high enough up so you don't accidentally move your shutter settings which can happen. and, I wonder if it would have made sense to have added a clicking feel between each ISO setting instead of it being very smooth as it is.. I think that if it clicked like the shutter dial clicks, you could feel the ISO settings change and also know when to release the dial and set the ISO.. as it is, there's no clicking or tactile indication to let you know you've moved the ISO dial to an actual setting position and sometimes when you try to drop and release and set the ISO, it's kind of in between settings or otherwise needed to wiggle the ISO dial more exactly into position. In doesn't take much to do set the dial down in position, but I sometimes feel if it clicked into specific positions, then you could be certain and spend just that fraction of a second or so wiggling the ISO button down in place. i know, also impossible to change this, but going to both points above about the finicky ISO dial, perhaps additionally, if the ISO dial when lifted where to stay in position when up, then you would both A) less likely be able to move the shutter dial because it is locked up in ISO position, AND, to move from one ISO setting to a more extreme setting would require less work as you could more quickly move the dial without have to lift, move a short turn as much as you can, drop the ISO dial, reposition your finger, and lift, move the dial down further towards your intended ISO setting.. When it's little change, not as big a deal, but when you want to go from say 200 to 3200, it can take several of those repeated actions to get to the ISO setting you want. and, once you reached your ISO setting, you need only press the center button to have it unlock from the ISO position and automatically snap back down into normal position (or other wise shutter adjustment position). Otherwise, I still like and use the X-Pro2's ISO dial as is and think it's mostly cool and works.

I have to admit, although I found the x-pro1 a bit too sluggish for my personal use, the X-Pro1's IQ is still very nice.. and, it's using the first version of the x-trans sensor and does have a slightly different look to the image files than the newer cameras with the newer x-trans sensors. I suppose if you could afford to keep both, might as well. You're probably not going to get that much back for it since they have been selling the x-pro1's for pretty damn cheap new these days. However! There are plenty of people who still love the x-pro1 and wouldn't mind adding one to their Fuji collection and might still buy it for a reasonable price. So, unless you feel you really love and must keep the x-pro1, I think you might be better served to let it go and use whatever $$ you can get back to afford another lens instead. I decided on the x-pro2 as the one camera to own very easily 1) I could not afford to keep 2 camera bodies 2) Even if I had a 2nd body, I was being honest with myself and knew I would not use the x-pro1 much and it would sit at home collecting dust 3) why would it be collecting dust? Because the x-pro2 is the camera the X-pro1 should have been, it has everything I wanted and more. Forget if you really need the new 24mp sensor and ACROS film simulation.. Functionally, the X-Pro2 is so much better to use. It's fast to start up and shoot and navigate through picture and menus (which you probably won't need to do much, anyways). The AF is a lot faster and more responsive. The hybrid viewfinder was incomplete in the X-Pro1, imho, and that was a big part of why one would buy an x-pro2 over any other x camera.. there was simply no way to confirm autofocus and forget manually focusing with the OVF in the X-Pro1.. The only way to confirm AF and MF and be sure is by quickly switching back to EVF mode, but, then what's the point if maybe everyshot you had to still go back to the EVF to confirm your focus?.might as well use the EVF all the time, but the EVF is so slow and laggy.. always felt it was at least a step behind where I wanted to be... you could and may have adapted, but it was too slow coming from another camera system which had much more responsive EVF. So.. both the EVF AND the OVF are improved in the X-Pro2.. the EVF is as fast as it can be (maybe just short of the new X-T2's, but still pretty damn good already).. and they added the electronic rangefinder mode which puts the small EVF in the lower right corner of the EVF like they have in the X100T.. that is SO much better.. finally, you can have focus confirmation using the OVF in both AF and in MF, not only can you see your focus spot but the frame lines also update in real-time as you do it as well.. About as close to a digitial rangefinder experience as you can get without actually getting a real rangefinder and spending $1000's more on say a Leica. 4) The X-Pro2's AF joystick further makes selecting AF points so much better to do than the clicky control pad of the X-Pro1. 5) The X_Pro2 just writes and works faster.. I don't do a lot of chimping, but when I did have to check my focus, the fact i'm not waiting for review, especially after a burst of repeated shots, makes life shooting with the camera alot more pleasant. Sure, they say the x-pro1 is suppose to slow you down to make you make more thoughtful photos.. that's fine, that's not the issue, the point is I was stopping to slow down because the camera wasn't keeping up with my style of making photos. Just the sheer responsiveness and the ability to practically use the OVF and EVF make the X-Pro2 a winner and must own.. the X-Pro1, not so much, never was, and so I sold it. I loved and enjoyed using the X-Pro1 for the most part, but the X-Pro2 is the X-Pro I wanted and waited over 4 years for it to finally be. That's my take.

Funny, I asked or commented something very similar a while ago. I suppose it could, it's a small area, but if it's not covered, sure, why wouldn't moisture or other crap not be able to get in there. I say try to replace the cover when you can. I lost the one on my X-Pro1 and was concerned the same would happen with the X-Pro2.. personally, I feel the X-Pro2's sync cover is not as easy to lose (knock on wood).. the location is higher up and I do feel that since it's so close to the strap lug, that sort of blocks most occurrence of accidental contact which could remove the cover accidentally. Hard to find the exact one for the X-Pro's on Amazon or Ebay.. it's surprisingly not as common as the one for other sync terminals. I ended up calling Fuji directly to ask for the specific part and ordered several while I had them on the line to make sure I had plenty in case it ever did happen again. Sure, you could just use electrical or gaffers tape, and some have suggested even Sugru.. I mean if you don't ever plan to use the sync terminal, then I guess you could do a better job of sealing it off.. But, I wouldn't.. I found going on certain jobs that I actually needed that terminal to sync with a studio light setup. I prefer the original cap to properly cover the sync terminal. In case you ever need to order a replacement(s) from Fujifilm directly, here is the part # below. Part #: BB24156-100

Is AF performance different between 77 & 273 AF points? Or is it purely a matter of allowing you more or less selectable AF points but the AF performance is exactly the same either way. You're not going to get any faster, more accurate AF or tracking with more AF points, will you?

I'LL JUST ADD MY COMMENTS TO THE ONES I AGREE AND HAVE ADDITIONAL THOUGHTS, OR POSSIBLY DISAGREE ON, AS WELL AS SOME THINGS I'D LIKE TO SEE. WHAT I'D LIKE TO SEE IN FUTURE FIRMWARE UPDATE, I'M SPEAKING AS X-PRO2 USER, BUT THESE COULD APPLY ACROSS ALL FUJI X CAMERAS: 1) IMPROVED FACE & EYE DETECT. - I HAVE TO SAY THE FACE & EYE DETECT AF OPTIONS ARE OK AT BEST. I'M NOT TOTALLY DISAPPOINTED, BUT THERE IS ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT. SONY SEEMS TO BE THE BEST AT THIS, AND I FEEL MY OLYMPUS OM-D'S I WAS USING ALSO HAD MORE PRECISION AND LESS CHANCE OF GETTING LOST ON BACKGROUND OR OTHER OBJECTS OR SHAPES. IF MEMORY SERVES, I FEEL THE X100T HAS EVEN BETTER FACE & EYE DETECT. I FELT IT LOCKED ONTO THE FACE OR EYE WITH MUCH MORE CONFIDENCE. 2) I ALREADY MENTIONED I WISHED THERE WAS ANOTHER WAY TO EXIT FOCUS CHECK MAGNIFIED VIEW WHEN USING AF FOCUSING OTHER THAN THE SMALL FAIRLY RECESSED REAR DIAL. AS A SUGGESTION, LET'S MAKE THE AF-L AND AE-L BUTTON IN PARTICULAR WITH OPTION TO REASSIGN TO A FUNCTION BUTTON.. PERHAPS ADDING A FUNCTION TO EXIT MAGNIFICATION. THE AE-L STILL REALLY ISN'T IN IDEAL LOCATION, IT'S A BIT TOO FAR LEFT AND A LITTLE UP FOR MY THUMB TO REACH ACROSS, BUT I THINK IT IS ISOLATED AND PROTRUDES ENOUGH TO BE OF SOME USE OTHER THAN AE-L (OR AF-L IF SWAPPED). THERE ARE MORE, BUT THESE 2 ARE THE MAIN ONES OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD WHICH I'D LIKE TO HAVE ADDRESSED.

Thanks for what added info and insight you could provide. Glad to hear the rear screen works as I thought it should.. Ha! "...it doesn't tilt or swivel left "?! yeah, right! can't believe some people actually believe this would be acceptible design for rear screen on a flagship camera.. I just hope the x-Pro2's evf gets refreshed up to 100 fps... it doesn't sound like you needed the battery grip nor "boost" switch/butotn to get the 100fps directly from the camera body itself.. which, is hopeful, in that the x-pro2 could also potentially do that.. and i think that interview between Matt at Art of the Image and Billy from the Fuji guys that talked about hidden engineered potential in the x-pro2 such as the EVF refresh rate means it can and will get up to 100 fps via firmware some day. since you didn't get a chance to use the battery grip, guess you weren't able to test the boost.. would have been nice to get some feedback on how much it improves AF, in particular with continuous burst shooting where there is, I think, supposedly no black out.. maxes out at about 8-8.5fps much like the Sony A6300 works without blackout. Thanks for everything so far.

yeah, I have to say a lot of KR's review of the XP2 is crap.. I'll keep this short by pointing out the menu system.. what is he talking about? did he really use it? Ok, i'll say a small couple items may have been better organized.. off the top of my head, card format.. have to admit I don't understand why it's under User? but, overall, the xp2's menu system is a lot better.. and to say Sony is better and something almost of praise?.. whatever.. and, what time period is KR from?.. who still uses the term Orient? Can't tell you how much I hated that term when it was used once on me in a public place as an insult.

Yes, I'm also certain the frame lines move using the OVF. How it works depends if MF or AF. With MF, it moves and corrects as soon as you start turning the focus ring. With AF, it only corrects and updates after you've half-pressed shutter release to AF lock.. will hold as long as you don't lift your finger off the shutter release.. OR, if you use AF-L then it will hold, but can adjust if you have manual AF-M set to adjust manually after the AF-L lock (or after half pressing shutter release and continue to hold). But, that leads me to what I'd like to see fixed with AF-M (that's autofocus with manual adjustment, in case this wasn't clear). What I'd like as firmware updates are a few things regarding AF & MF: 1) Have another way to exit check focus magnified view when using EVF and in AF mode other than to press the rear command dial or lift finger off shutter release which essentially causes me to re-AF acquire and start the process over (which is fine if I want to start over, but I often do not). Can there be another button reassigned that's perhaps easier to reach? Some have even suggested the front viewfinder lever or the function button in the front viewfinder lever. If the front viewfinder lever itself, perhaps a quick push to the left? I know pushing lever to the left engages/disengages ERF, but that's only when using the OVF, right? and you don't get the same focus check functionatliy as you do using the EVF.. So, when you are using the EVF, a quick left push of the viewfinder lever to disengage focus check easier... perhaps being able to assign it to the function button within the lever itself? 2) AF-L button be available when using lenses that have manual focus ring engaged and in MF mode. 3) While on topic of AF, improve Face Detect.. it mostly works, but just enough instances where it fails. The X100T is even better. Can we get Face Detect to work better on the X-Pro2? 4) Have AE-L button be reassigned as another function button? The way camera is set up and I shoot, I don't find the AE-L button used often for exposure lock, I just prefer to half press the shutter, if not locking exposure manually. To describe the issue I personally have regarding focus check, please read below. With EVF using AF: I find I want to quickly AF and perform fine tune focusing manually to be certain. I Focus Check, view is magnified and I can adjust focus more clearly, that's great, right? BUT, after I've done my fine manual focusing, I'm stuck in magnified view, still. I often just leave the focus point dead center, but that may not where I want the focus to actually be to compose and frame the final image. But, since I'm magnified, I can no longer be certain what my framing and composition is. So, if I release my half-press of shutter release button, it will zoom out and I can recompose if necessary. However, when I go to press the shutter release to take the photo, it will AF again but it will do so obviously in the wrong spot. The only way I can zoom out otherwise is one of 2 ways. 1) I press the rear command dial.. but, it's pretty recessed and can be a bit awkward to try to press firmly and when I try, I'll find many times my finger over the shutter release loses pressure so the half press to hold focus is released and I have to attempt it again.. Or, I end up pressing the shutter release and taking the shot prematurely. Yes, I believe it is that hard to press the rear command dial to disengage focus check like this. Keep in mind this is both with shutter release on half press, no AF-L. 2) If I use AF-L (and I have it set to On/Off toggle, not press and hold only), then I can manually check focus and can more easily press the joystick to zoom out, recompose, and then take the shot without making the camera refocus..because I used AF-L.. That's pretty much been my workaround, but, I may not necessarily always want to use AF-L.. especially if I'm working a scene that's rather active and I may need to refocus AF fast. I'd really prefer to just AF without committing to AF-L and force to toggle on and off all the time. The other workaround is to switch focusing mode to MF, I don't half-press the shutter release, I AF-L to hone into my focus point quickly (but keep in mind in MF, the AF-L does not work as toggle, it will only AF for the moment you press it), manually focus check, then press the shutter release fully to take the photo. Sounds like using MF is the solution, right? Yes and no. I can use it, but it depends on the lens. If it does not have MF focus clutch like the 35mm or 56mm, then fine. But, if you have a manual focus clutch like the 23mm or 16mm etc.. then it doesn't quite work which is actually another thing fuji should try to fix. Let me explain. I want to focus check, so I have to have the manual focus ring engaged on the lens, right? otherwise is locked and you can't do that. When you have the focus ring engaged, you can AF by half-pressing, but you have to exit out of magnified view via the control dial.. again, difficult to keep finger half-pressed and trying to reach and press the rear command dial.. often will lift my finger off the shutter release or inadvertently press and take the photo before I'm ready. So then if I go into MF mode, the AF-L button is disabled so I cannot do a quick AF to the point of focus (like I could in AF mode) and all the focusing has to be done stritctly by manually focusing.. I can do this, but it sure would be nice to keep the option to be able to use AF-L (essentially back button focus) to lock onto subject faster than to manually rack the focus wheel and scan for your focus.

Yeah, I think the only wireless TTL flash system that works with Fuji's are RoboSHOOT by Sere Automation. Admittedly, slightly on the pricier side, but you really have no other options currently to do wireless TTL flash with Fuji's. They do seem to have limited runs so getting one may take a bit of time if you miss their stock replenishment. However, if not in hurry and want to see what other options. I'm also looking at these other 2 systems in addition to the RoboSHOOT for viable wireless TTL flash.. now, if any of these mentioned here offer HSS in addition, even better... but, I'm holding out high hopes on the latter option.. harder to do.. I'd be happy with wireless TTL flash for now. Fuji is suppose to release a new flash system, the EF-X500, this year (2016). It may possibly offer wireless TTL capabilities. Check out some info here from Fujifilm. They seem to state it offers multiple flash TTL system. Cool! http://www.fujifilm.com/news/n160115_06.html And, I think Nissin is also working on a new flash system which may also possibly offer wireless TTL flash for Fuji.. think it works with Nissin's own Air System. Check it out here. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1236473-REG/nissin_nd60a_fj_i60a_flash_for_fujifilm.html/?gclid=CjwKEAjwgbG5BRDp3oW3qdPiuCwSJAAQmoSDiHN7-NimO3jRudbdwmAZFYyKezqiqml9ggrOviYKRBoC3iHw_wcB

This is an interesting video showing C-AF actually helps in low light situations. Your results may vary, but if it's worth checking out just to see what may be an improvement in AF when using C-AF. I've tried this myself and I have admit, it does seem to work.

Like someone else suggested, if you can afford to keep the X100T, then you should. It sounds like you will have all your bases covered, and then some. Why keep the X100T? For those moments when: - you want to keep it as small, compact & simple - maybe you want to try and start taking more flash photography, a great skill if you haven't tried it much, and having that leaf shutter is a big advantage especially when you want to do so in bright daylight & wide open. you will have the option to do high speed sync with the X-Pro2 & X-T1, alternatively, with either a Nissin i40 flash or upcoming EF-X500 from Fuji. - on a photoshoot, and you don't want to constantly be changing lenses, it's good to have 2 (possibly 3 even) bodies ready, so you might want the 23mm (or whatever lens conversion you may have for the X100T) readily available to cover that focal length, and the X-Pro2 and/or X-T1 ready with another set of focal lengths.

I like your choices and suggestions, particularly the Pac Safe stuff. I was concerned on a recent trip to Hong Kong and family always tell me there's a lot of pick pockets and thieves so you want to carry things close and up front when applicable, and anything important make sure you store secure and as internally as possible. Was a little concerned, but I've been to HK a number of times already and never had an issue, though I always paid attention to my surroundings and exercised precaution... (knock on wood). I was pretty certain my Wotancraft bag I had was secured.. even wrapped the strap metal hooks (I'm drawing a blank for the name, it's a sort of latch system to hook a strap to the bag) with duct tape so any fast hands wouldn't try to unlock the strap from the bag itself.. but, I thought about whether the canvas straps themselves would be enough to withstand a determined thief who has a really sharp knife?. I'm glad you showed your link.. I like how the straps have steel cables to make it near impossible to cut through. I like how "fashionable" my Wotancraft bags are, BUT, perhaps one of these items from Pac Safe will be purchased for when traveling abroad next time .. just to have the extra sense of security. I'd like to visit Europe with the wife and kid some day, but I also hear theft can be very high as well, France and Italy are 2 countries which I hear stories about.. I won't isolate those countries and just say pretty much any touristy destination is a prime location for thieves to hunt and take advantage of. Thanks again. ... and I agree, I like messenger style or some sort of sling over shoulder bag, but a lot have flaps. it does get annoying to flip a big flap out of the way.. as long as there's a way around it like some have zippers you can access through the flap.. or at the very least a way to secure it out of the way when you know you'll probably going to go in and out of your bag more often than not.

I can agree with your point of view and have thought of it that way in the past.. feel differently now, but either way, great options for everyone out there to make their x-pro2 their own.. however, being at least half the Gariz case is metal, you will probably feel the cold machine still.. still think they should have at least color matched the bottom to black and/or complete the leather wrap around the bottom as well.

sadly, the plastic strip thing totally cheapens the otherwise high quality build.

I was initially interested in the TP cases, not too expensive and variety of color choices (there are some other brands similar in design and even more colors). But, I will reiterate my point about the Gariz and majority of other half cases with the exception of Kenji. They are half of a half case and essentially means a 1/4 case cause it only covers the front and bottom - yes, it makes accessibility to doors, buttons and screen easier, but it just doesn't look complete and if you think about it, it doesn't really provide any sort of protection .. not likely front of camera will get damaged because you will have a lens on the camera most of the time and the lens is more likely to take brunt of any frontal damage.. the bottom, but that's just the bottom of the camera. I feel you're just getting a front facade which your fingers will cover mostly when you're holding your camera to shoot. But, with this and other half case designs like the TP, if you like just enough leather and color/texture to show it from the front mostly, then it will work fine. A small touch of customizing to separate your x-pro2 from straight out of box look is never bad, imho.

I liked Gariz cases for a while, had them on my X100 & OM-D E-M5 MkII. But, recently, looked away.. not because of quality.. I think it can vary depending on camera model, but design choice. a ) essentially a 1/4 case cause it only covers the front and bottom - yes, it makes accessibility to doors, buttons and screen easier, but it just doesn't look complete and if you think about it, it doesn't really provide any sort of protection .. not likely front of camera will get damaged because you will have a lens on the camera most of the time and the lens is more likely to take brunt of any frontal damage.. the bottom, but that's just the bottom of the camera. I feel you're just getting a front facade which your fingers will cover mostly when you're holding your camera to shoot. b ) not a fan of shiny metal bottom plate.. they should have it in black or just cover it with leather as well... btw, they do make a black label version on some of their cases with black metal plate, but not on these ones.. maybe a little later? c ) frankly boring color choices: black & brown.. ok, maybe the tan colored one is a little more exciting, but I still personally wouldn't go for those colors for my x-pro2.

This would have been my next choice, I really like the color options such as the military green, blue & classic vintage brown... and for $99 with matching strap, pretty good deal. But, they took a bit longer than I wanted to wait to finally put something out to be ordered.. more importantly, I think I like the Kenji one I ordered.. it appears unlike any of the other brands you might have heard mentioned in this post because it fully wraps around the camera instead of just being essentially a front and bottom piece.