Tikcus

Using Jpeg (not even using raw and converting in to jpeg in camera) , to me this is the same as taking your photos and sending your film away to be developed back in the film days All be it with a big differences, with digital you can instantly review and retake if it is not to your liking instantly. How you process the photograph all depends on what you want to use them for? If you are producing a piece of art, you will almost certainly process the photograph yourself. If it is a snapshot, chances are the jpeg will be good enough (most people take photos on a mobile phone, and they are happy with the results). Along with my previous post, I agree with what others have said, the taking of the photograph and the developing are 2 parts of the job.

some nice shots

Lightroom more important to me than Photoshop However I still shoot raw+jpeg, if i need the photo instantly having a jpeg is useful I develop the photo in Lightroom (exposure/clarity/sharpness etc etc etc) If I need to manipulate a photograph (such as creating a multiplicity image, or using the liquify tool) I'd use photoshop. Adobe Lightroom/photoshop, can not make up for bad composure; however, it can improve other photographs (if shot in raw), where white balance is off, exposure/clarity/sharpness etc etc etc needs tweaking. the tools available can be used to improve a photograph. If I can ask a the same question but back in the days of film. Was the darkroom more important than taking the photograph? A lot of Photographers spent more time in the darkroom, enlarging, & developing, their photographs than they ever did taking the images. I recently spent time in the darkroom for a still life project, creating a test sheet, enlarging the photograph (cropping the bits i didn't want), developing the image, stopping the image, fixing the image, washing the image, drying the image, then unhappy with the result, so add magenta, another test sheet, another enlargement, developed, stopped, fixed, washed. Keep repeating until happy. Personally it is much easier and quicker to use lightroom/photoshop but it is basically just using a digital darkroom

really nice, love the one of the flamingo with reflection in the water. The inflight shots are really good as well

The 35mm is the only lens I could not live without. For me it is the perfect lens for low light/Street portraits with or without a Shallow DOF, and I have used it in a studio for portrait shoots. For street I have never really had an issue zooming out with my feet if it was needed for framing, however for cityscapes (especially on a recent visit to New York) , I find the 18mm a better focal length. I do not own the 23mm but it is also not a lens I intend to get, I guess I am just happy using "one of the most over-rated lenses in the history of photography" as my go to lens I'm also a believer in finding a way to get your shots with the equipment you have

A friend who shoots M4/3 tells me he videos in 4k, and can then go through the video to pull 4k (8MP) stills from the video, navigating frame by frame. (if I understood him correctly) TBH I can see this feature being very useful

For 99% (actually it is probably 100%) of photos i take the focusing speed is irrelevant Every lens i own on the XT-10 focuses faster than I could time it (which is fast enough)

If you need to move the tripod mount on the camera to the centre, I believe the Fujifilm metal hand grip, or half case does this, however i do not remember which, and can not check atm

Sony just announced the RX10M3 with 24-600mm zoom (1:35 eqv) for $1500 Pretty much everything the non existent XS-2 should have been, now this has been released, I doubt an X-S1 with a minor upgrade (e.g. X30 sensor/processor) would cut it http://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-rx10m3

Love the bumping of old stuff. My 2 cents with the currently available lens, and with the intention of taking all kinds of photography You'd need a wide angle, a "normal" length lens, a mid telephoto/portrait lens and a longer telephoto if you had a 4 lens setup. Personally I use the 18mm F/2, 35mm F1.4 (occasional landscape, street and street portraits) and 60mm F/2.4 (Macro and portraits), and have the XC50-230 for wildlife shots, however if money was no object this is ot the combination I would buy (note I am happy with the results of this combo, and have not tested other lenses). If money was no object, I would probably pick up the 23 F/1.4 to replace both the 18&35 (although I'd have to re-adjust as I can frame pretty much for the 35mm before I look through the viewfinder), the 56mm F/1.2 for all portrait work and the 100-400 for longer length wildlife and birds. If the 23mm was not wide enough for landscapes you wanted to photo, then I'd probably opt for the 16mm F/1.4 if it was wide enough then one of the 35mm lenses, the 90mm, the 60mm macro or wait for the 120mm macro. If Fast glass was not important but reach and quickness to adjust to that reach was, zooms may be more appropriate, I plan on going on a safari, when I do it, I'd probably want to take 2 bodies 1 with a short zoom 16-50/18-55/18-135, and a second with the XF100-400 If you are not sure on what focal length you need, I'd think it is probably better to start small with a single normal (23 or 35) lens or a zoom and see what focal lengths you use, before spending money on glass you will not use, or use fujis comparison tool

Only you can answer that question. If you are replacing the 18-55, with a 35 you lose a lot of focal lengths, only you can know if that is a sacrifice you are prepared to make. I can not comment on the XF35 F2 as I only own the XF35 F/1.4 With the 35 F/1.4 you gain a faster lens with a nice shallow DOF and good low light capability, I carry on a day to day basis the 18mm F/2, the 35mm F/1.4, and the 60mm F/2.4, which suits my shooting style. Each lens has a job, and only you know if the lenses you have are right for the job you want to do. For me, the 18mm is my go to daylight street lens, where I want the architecture as well as people. the 35mm is my go to default lens for street portraiture, night photography, and general purpose. the 60mm is close up macro, and portrait lens (can't justify the expense for the 56 F/1.2 atm, and not convinced it adds anything for me that I (almost) can not get with the 60 or 35 good luck with whatever you do

1. I don't care about others 2. IBIS for photos never bothers me OIS is provided on most zoom lenses on primes it never seems to matter to me, (99% of the time I only use prime lenses) as If you are shooting shorter focal lengths you can normally hand hold down to 1/60s or 1/30s without camera shake becoming an issue, slower speeds than this you will normally be shooting a landscape, or some other situation a tripod or mono pod would be used; Anything that moves e.g. people such a slow shutter speed would introduce motion blur. As the longer zoom lenses have between 3 and 5 stops of stabilisation built in to the lens, relatively slow shutter speeds can be used hand held without any camera shake issue. 3. I don't have it so can't comment from my personal experience, however internet reviews I have read put it up with the very best kit lenses. 4. Sorry can't help, only filters I use are protection filters 5. IDK 6. As I do not normally use filters, never thought about this, but I'd guess if you regularly use them, i'd buy the bigger size and step down 7. I've used some 30 year old K mount lenses with a dumb adapter, I've never had any issues with quality, though manual focus only 8. Never used any, some others use the Samyang 8mm Fisheye, I'd ask them. 9. Can't help, as currently I do not own one, but the XT-10 does have a small built in flash 10. Sorry

Once you connect to the first device the CAmera remembers the device, to connect to a second requires access to the camera and pressing the new device option

https://flic.kr/s/aHskx2LdUq XT-10 + XF35F/1.4R & XF18F/2R A few photos from a recent trip

TBH I'm pretty happy with my lot now. (will be very happy when I get the XF100-400+TC) Then the only lens I am missing I feel, is a very wide angle lens The lenses I have; the only ones I use regular are the 18mm F/2 for street photography (I know it is hated by some but I really like the lens) 35mm F/1.4 which is my go to general purpose lens, low light, shallow DOF some portrait work 60mm F/2.4 product, macro, portrait If I could only have 1 lens it would be the 35, but I'd miss both the others Longer than the 60mm I'd rather use a zoom as I'm likely to be shooting wildlife, where you can not zoom with your feet. Previously I really wanted the 56 F/1.2 but if I got this lens it would be purely GAS I am not a landscape photographer and when I need to shot one, I can normally make do with the 18mm or drop on the XC16-50, as it only has to be acceptable not perfect (non paid work) If I got into landscape or astro photography in a major way, I'd invest then in the required tool (maybe the samyang F/2, which I here good things about)

https://flic.kr/p/EPgmz2 A recent photo I took with the 60mm @ F/2.4

All my lenses focus fast enough in normal lighting conditions. The 60mm F/2.4 is slower to focus when doing Macro work, but no other lens I own is even capable of doing that. I agree with the above, that all lenses should be tested under the same situation.

http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t10/lens/with_a-ring/index.html That is link to online manual for XT-10, where it states you can change aperture with rear dial with aperture set to A Personally I think it is an error in the manual, maybe it did once work but a firmware update changed it.

no problem, if you work out what needs to be changed to allow the aperture to be set by the rear dial, I'm interested to know how (not that I have ever felt the need to use it previously). but since the manual says you can. lol

in P mode the front and rear deals do exactly the same thing, they both shift the SS and A to maintain the metered exposure (DR has to be set to anything but auto, for P mode to work), you can not alter either the shutter speed or the aperture independently of each other in P mode. from my testing on lenses with an Aperture ring, at least on the XT-10 the only way to shoot in manual exposure is to set the aperture on the lens, regardless of the mode selected. (even though Fuji manual says rear dial works..)

I can not make this work on XT-10 (I can not speak for XT-1) , if it is possible there must be another setting that requires changing. I tested with XF18 F/2 lens Aperture set to A on lens Aperture option in menu remained greyed out Quality RAW+JPEG

I believe that is correct I can not find an option to enable that, there is a greyed out aperture option in the menu; I suspect it is greyed out as I have a lens with aperture ring attached, and at the minute I do not have with me a lens without an aperture ring to test. TBH I prefer having an aperture ring on the lens it is very easy to adjust. On Fuji XT-10 I can alter all exposure settings in seconds, (I have iso bound to a function button as it does not have a dial) This took ages when I had a sony navigating menus, I'd never go back to a menu system after the 2 minutes it took to convert me to Fuji

Hi Joost on the XT-10 (do not have a T1) , if you set the shutter speed dial to T, the front dial, can be used to change the shutterspeed from 30 seconds to 1/4000 (using mechanical shutter (and 1/32000 using electronic). The rear dial, is used to change aperture in 1/3 stops on XC and XF27 lenses, other lenses have an aperture ring on the lens

wonder if it is an attack on a hole in the safari browser no issues on windows 10, or windows phone Edit I did a quick search for the problem, and it does not seem to be uncommon on ithings one recommendation was to reset the advertiser identifier in privacy settings as I do not own an ithing I do not have this problem, so can not replicate the problem or test the fix good luck

nice photos, lots of detail on the leaf in 1st photo do you know what the magnification of the lens is? can't find the info on Fuji uk website