Tikcus

I know this camera is of little interest to pretty much all of this forum, however I feel it could be an interesting product in one of the following situations The X-A3 gets upgraded to the X-trans 2 sensor and hybrid autofocus that is in the XT1/10 and XE2(s), which would at least make a nice 2nd body with identical photo quality (just missing features/viewfinder) an optional viewfinder X-70 like, would be good, combined with the Xtrans 2, would make a nice upgradable camera, allowing new buyers that are coming from mobile phone cameras to dip their feet into the Fuji x world, and have a nice upgrade to the viewfinder, without having to purchase a whole new body when they fall in love with Fuji X (even if the total cost of the combo is more than just buying a XT10/E2(s) ) Or It gets upgraded to the sensor in the Sony Alpha 6000/5100 and Hybrid autofocus, given it a boost to 24MP bayer sensor (the sony 24MP sensor is over 2 years old now) A light weight body and tilt screen is great for street, pair it with the XF27mm F/2.8 or 18mm F/2 and the combo is tiny. However if it remains a 16MP Bayer sensor, I do not know what the can add to justify its release, although the changes from the X-A1 to 2 were minimal (screen became a full flip, can't remember any others atm) The updated XC lenses were another change. What I would like to see is a new push into more XC lenses (primes) to support the entry level camera(s) there is nothing wrong with the XC zooms, yes the build quality is lower and they are made of plastic and slower. I'm like most people and love the fast lenses and great build quality of the XF lenses, however for stuff that is outside my normal shooting such as landscape and interior photography, where I need something wider than 16/18mm, i'm not going to spend several hundred £ on a lens that will be used very occasionally, but I may spend a couple of hundred on a slower wide angle e.g. a 8mm or 12mm F/2.8/ or F/4 for the benefit of still having autofocus, etc. Also for those learning photography they may want the classic focal lengths 24, 35, 50, 85 to learn how to compose etc with them, but do not want to or can not invest large amounts of money, and do not need super wide apertures for low light or shallow DOF my 2 cents in a board that has not had a post for months

All just boxes with holes in them

If the camera is delayed due to the XT-2 and X-Pro 2 using up 100% of the available 24MP sensors, it is understandable that it will be delayed until demand can be satisfied. ​I don't think anyone wants a "paper launch" for a product that no-one (or few people) can get. That would be as much use as just listing the specs (which will likely be the same spec as an X-Pro 2, with built in 23mm F/2 lens, hybrid view finder, and leaf shutter) 4K video is unlikely due to heat issues (maybe an X200 MKII after the processor undergoes a die shrink with 4K)

theft or breakage or both? I took out an additional option on my home insurance that covers my camera gear against theft world wide (it was not expensive), can't help with breakage/damage insurance

The pre-order price on amazon uk for the SP2 is currently £168.38 compared to £118 for the SP1 (more than 40% increase) The improvements may justify the price increase, although I was hoping for a price close ot the SP1

i'll assume on your sony alpha 6000 you mean your fav focal lengths are 30-40mm you mean on that camera, personally i'd buy body only and one of the 35mm, i own the F/1.4 so can't comment on the comparison with the F/2.(in regards to focus speed etc, the F/1.4 lets 1 stop more light in though) However, in situations where you can not zoom with your feet you may find yourself limited with one lens. Personally I do not use a short zoom, my setup is normally, the XT-10 with the 35mm F/1.4 lens attached, with the 18mm F/2 and 60mm F/2.4 in my bag (occasionally just the 35mm on camera, and the 18mm in pocket) 90% of the time I can zoom with my feet and do not need to change lenses. I only use zooms at the longer focal lengths when zooming with your feet is impossible or not practical (that and as of yet Fuji does not have any long primes) There are advantages to the 18-55 F/2.8-4, not changing lenses being the big one, it is also stabilised (which non of the lenses I use day to day are), granted I don't care abut stabilisation at short focal lengths as I can normal keep the shutter speed fast enough that it does not create a problem (that and stabilisation may help with camera shake, but if the subject is moving being able to handhold at 1/4 second aint going to help you) Optically though having owned the Sony SELP1650, and the Fuji XF 18-55, the Fuji is much better lens. good luck with your decision

Welcome, I don't own the 100-400 but nobody I know that owns it has any complaints there are plenty of examples on this forum of the photo quality (or just search on flickr)

I took a quick portrait with the XF60 F/2.4 @ F/2.4, ISO 800, 1/180 The photo has not been cropped, the out of focus area is aprox 2 meters behind the person DSCF9267 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr

not sure the perfect lens or photographer exists, as since it is art it is subjective

Welcome Depends how you want the bokeh to look? I am more than satisfied with the XF60 F/2.4 here is a quick comparison I did between the bokeh of the 35 F/1.4, 60 F/2.4 and a legacy 50 F/2 Comparison by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr The 35mm F/1.4 is my go to lens, love it for street portraits DSCF6418 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr DSCF8810 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr Q1 - Legacy = manual focus, if you're happy with that a cheap adapter and lenses can be found for a fraction of the cost of fujinon glass However for fujinon If I didn't own the 60 F/2.4 I'd be tempted to see what the 50 F/2 is like when it arrives (I'd love the 56 F/1.2 but it is very expensive, especially as it is not as versatile as the 35 F/1.4). I really can't comment on which legacy glass to buy, as all the legacy glass I own were gifted to me. Nor can I recommend lenses I don't own and have not tested Q2 - Ebay? although I imagine your mileage will vary Q3 - can't help Q4 - When I shoot with the 60mm for out door portraits, I often stop it down to F/4 so most of the portrait is sharp and background is slightly out of focus, it all depends on how much of the face you want in sharp focus The 56mm F/1.2 @ F/1.2 with the subject 100 cm away, the depth of field would only be about 1.5 cm (the subject at 500 cm the DOF would be about 40cm) http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm

I really like the moment your son captured (the most important thing) Both are nice photos, bet that guy spends the winter months working as Santa

Did a quick test of someone walking across the garden, keeping the person in the PDAF area of the X-T10 it nailed the focus on the person 16 times out of 18 shots camera settings F/8, 1/180, ISO 200 AF Mode ZONE & C Raw only I was moving the camera with the target so they stayed in the PDAF area. camera in CH mode Using the Wide/Tracking AF mode the hit rate was not as good, but the tracking still worked with the X-T10 and XF60 However I can't test this on a faster moving unpredictable target (also the field of view from the 60mm may not be wide enough, only you can answer that question)

I'll put the lens on my x-t10, pu it into CAF and see how it does tomorrow. I don't find it slow, but admittedly I normally only use it for portrait work

for little birds the longer the better. You may want to to try the very cheap XC 50-230mm lens and see if it has the reach for your wildlife requirements There are many examples on this forum of its quality, and (in the UK at least) it is available 2nd hand for around £150.00 on ebay You can then decide if you need anything longer. A wildlife photographer I know uses the 100-400 with 1.4TC exclusively when shooting little birsds good luck

I have 2 bags first is a lowpro 35L AW Nova Sport, shoulder bag. This is a specious bag, which is just small enough for hand luggage for air travel. It has a water proof pull over cover, enugh space for more gear than I carry. I got this bag specifically for a trip to New York, and I find shoulder bags more comfortable (read easier on my back) than a back pack, I wanted something that filled 4 main criteria. 1. Allowed in hand luggage on British Airways flights 2. Is Water Proof 3. Can carry my 12" laptop 4. Can carry my X-T10 3 lenses and accessories My other bag is an Amazon basics backpack with laptop compartment. I use this bag when i'm out cycling. both bags are light (when empty) but either can carry more equipment than I need. I'm tempted to pick up a 3rd smaller shoulder bag, big enough for a single body with the 18mm or 35mm lens mounted a spare battery for street (at some point maybe)

All film is expensive (compared to digital being free). Lomography an art movement. ​If you want to create to create the lomo effect without the cost of buying camera, film and developing it. There are apps to download for smartphones, and there are Adobe Lightroom tutorials (on the web) to create the effect. good luck

in the uk you can get replacement caps direct from Fuji, i imagine in other parts of the world it is similar http://shop.fujifilm.co.uk/accessories/caps-straps Personally I have never lost one, when putting the lens away (the 35 f/1.4 or 18 f/2) I put lens cap on then attach hood, and hood cap which stop it coming off in the bag. When the camera is in use, the caps are kept in the bag (lens hood is always on the lens) welcome to the forum

I wouldn't worry, I doubt they will al be Fuji X lenses

XF35 F/1.4 @ ISO 200, SS 1/60, F/1.4 (Shot at dusk) DSCF8810 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr

It is very sad when companies do this. I may just but the nissin i40 as that works with HSS and X-T10 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RLUuF_XG0A

I'd be interested to know what the limitations are per camera. The way I read it the XT1, XT2, and XPRO2 are fully compatible All others X series are not fully compatible. However if the X-T1 is fully compatible, why wouldn't the XT-10, X-E2(s)? ​

I've never had any of these problems. The only time you normally can't fine tune the shutter speed in manual exposure mode with the front dial is if the camera is set to 180X If the problem re-emerges please let us know

WR - 23mm F/2, 35mm F/2, 50mm F/2 non WR - 23mm F/1.4, 35mm F/1.4, 56mm F/1.2 I can see a place for both sets and a mix and match between the two sets, to fit multiple different needs.

DSCF0341 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr

What are the limitations when not using on XT1/2 or X-Pro 2? fuji site it advised firmware update required for x-pro 2 and x-t1, and on compatibility chart all other X cameras are listed as not fully compatible