Burb

They called hot pixels, occurring during long exposures or high iso values. Those pixels are more sensitive by light than the others. I had this problem on my X-T1 within two months after purchasing. Went back to the store and they send the camera to Fuji service where they remapped the sensor and I have no problem up to now! 

I've made a couple of shots of my very photogenic wall at apertures of 2/8 and 22. At f2 you'll have the softes corners.
Maybe, with some experimenting, it's possible to remove the front slot and get the polarizer closer to the lens but for now I deal with it. I do not own any other polarizer to test in between the lens and Seven5 filter holder.  

that's the true watermark!!! 

I bought a Samyang 12mm for a week or two ago. A really nice lens, and i'm very happy with it! It performs really great when shooting landscapes, for me the only purpose for this lens.

I bought a Samyang 12mm for a week or two ago. A really nice lens, and i'm very happy with it! It performs really great when shooting landscapes, for me the only purpose for this lens.

Thanks for your comments, I've decided to go for the Samyang 12 mm (using it for 2 week now) It's really an amazing lens!! It's so much fun and quality for less than half the price of te Fuji 14mm!

Thanks for your comments, I've decided to go for the Samyang 12 mm (using it for 2 week now) It's really an amazing lens!! It's so much fun and quality for less than half the price of te Fuji 14mm!

X-T1 18-135mm @F22/18mm/1/13s/ISO200

X-T1 18-135mm @F22/18mm/1/13s/ISO200

X-T1 18-135mm @F22/18mm/1/13s/ISO200

X-T1 18-135mm @F22/18mm/1/13s/ISO200

For the 10-24mm you will need the Lee 100 system. And you better use the 72mm wide angle adapter ring.
 
Lee Filters write in their Knowlege Base about it:
http://leefilters.uservoice.com/knowledgebase/articles/353605-fuji-x-10-24mm

Nice sunset!
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@18mm, F14, 1,5 sec ISO 200

Nice sunset!
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@18mm, F14, 1,5 sec ISO 200

You are correct, the macro icon is gone, it's now just part of the lense minimum focus distance. The biggest drawback is that you need to kind of remember how close you can focus with your lenses now, the 56mm could be the real annoying one with it's 70 cm distance.

I've noticed that the Lee Seven5 Polarizer gives a little vignettin when used together with the 18-135mm zoom lens at 18mm. When zooming in just a little bit towards 23mm it's gone. The 18-135 lens has a 67mm filter diameter. Maybe in future I wanted buy a wider lens so I was wondering which lens will not be affected by vignettin, the 10-24 mm zoom with a filter diameter of 72mm or the 14mm with a filter diameter of 58mm. My guess is that the 10-24 will give a lot vignettin in at least the ultra wide focal lengths due to the wider diameter. And that the 14m maybe don't give any vignettin at all? I'm I correct?

I'm using the Lee Seven5 system. I just watched the video but I don't think that the Seven5 holder is made out of plastic. As far I can see it it's made of aluminum. It looks almost impossible to remove the holder from the adapter without using brute force so I'm not worried that the holder will accidentally come loose.

Nice sunset!
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@18mm, F14, 1,5 sec ISO 200

Welcome all!
 
First post, I thought let's do a flower...
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@123mm, F8, 1/200, ISO 200

Nice sunset!
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@18mm, F14, 1,5 sec ISO 200

Nice sunset!
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@18mm, F14, 1,5 sec ISO 200

Just an other one...
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@40mm, F5,6, 1/2500, ISO 200

Welcome all!
 
First post, I thought let's do a flower...
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@123mm, F8, 1/200, ISO 200

Nice sunset!
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@18mm, F14, 1,5 sec ISO 200

Just an other one...
 
X-T1 + 18-135mm, Shot@40mm, F5,6, 1/2500, ISO 200