jerryy

You may have to wait for next Easter and try again then.

Yes Is some small amount leftover from the spot i cleaned. Inside only very less point of dust,yes my be are from manufacture Is very microscopic.
anyway on pictures i not see dust and i not see the spot i clean.
thankyou so much for your reply Is beautiful im Happy.Have a good day

Are you certain the spot is on the inside and not some small amount leftover from the spot you cleaned? Maybe try a different brand of lens cleaner, but make sure it is safe for lenses so that the lens coatings are not removed.
Even weather resistant lenses can get dust inside, the seals can only keep out so much dust and zoom lenses are known to get dusty on occasion. More so than prime lenses do. Weather resistant means more sealing, but achieving perfect sealing is tough to get. It is also possible the dust has been there from the time it was manufactured and you are only now noticing because of the white dot. Does the dust show up in any of your photos?
As far as cleaning cost goes, your local camera repair shop will be able to give you some estimates, prices will be different depending on where you are.

Alsea, Oregon. X-T50, Fuji 8mm F3.5, Acros+R.

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Welcome to the forum.
There are some sports oriented photographers that stop by now and then that may give you better tips.
You did not mention your photography background, so please forgive me if I say something you already know.
Practice. Practice. Practice. Your son might be happy to indulge this 😀.
Set the lens to auto focus and for now, concentrate on the three basic parts, shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Set the ISO around 800 to 1600. This may seem too bright for a sunny day, but it will give you room to use the aperture and shutter speed without the scene getting dark. If the lighting is darker, use ISO 1600 to 6400.
Set the f-stop on the lens to around 5.6, this should give you enough depth of field (the sharp in focus part) to get his face and most of his bike — this will also depend on how close you are to him — while blurring some of the backgound. As you get used to what this aperture does at the distance you are from him, try other settings, wide open (the smallest f-stop number) can give you very pleasing results as can f16. Remember you are focusing on him, not taking landscape photos, so the background blurring is going to be different.
And the last part, shutter speed. Start around 1/400. The higher the shutter speed, the less motion blurring you get and the more the foreground will seem in focus. This is why you need the higher ISO, because higher shutter speeds will make the image go very dark. Try a bunch of the speeds. There is an art to getting the right blurring for the shot, from none at all to massively blurred.
Then back to the practice part.
After this, those other things on your camera are there to give you options in your approaches. You might set Auto ISO up so you can concentrate on shutter speed without worrying what rapidly changing sky clouds are doing to the images. Or how to use the back lcd as a focus aid, etc. Bring in these new options in a few at a time. Oh yeah, take the lens off auto focus mode and see how you like that, it does work.

I hope you are able to get out and see the many wonderful sights!!!
Locally, weeellll, mostly we have had this during the days and something similar during the nights. Arrgh!!!😃


For completenesses sake, clouds did clear away in time for the Strawberry Full Moon and the smoke from the wildfires... The clouds are back.

More modern phones with USB-C seem to be able to do backups from camera/card reader to external USB drive with no need for a computer. I haven't tried this personally.
https://petapixel.com/2025/05/11/no-laptop-no-problem-how-to-back-up-photos-in-the-field-with-your-smartphone/

How about using a phone or a tablet? This is probably the fastest and easiest way to do it.

maybe a greater yellow leg?  snapped it through some reeds, 150-600

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osprey searching for a meal.....150-600

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Cedar Waxwing, Oregon. X-H2s, Fuji 150-600+1.4TC.

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more....150-600

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No, I was not joking. Reread her post, the first sentence is “The focus mode selector button on the front of the camera has  me baffled.” which is what I explained in my answer: the focus mode selector button. My CSM explanation is essentially the standard approach Fujifilm has taken for some time.
Explaining the frame rate differences as I did to someone brand new to the camera seems an easier approach to understanding than saying it is 20fps vs 7fps. Not to mention, the following is how Fujifilm describes it: “Continuous AF: Focus is continually adjusted to reflect changes in the distance to the subject while the shutter button is pressed halfway. Use for subjects that are in motion”  https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/  You have to go to page 166 of the manual to get to a very brief explanation of CH vs CL without any context. High speed capture vs slower speed capture seems appropriate to explain so that someone that had been given the impression the top dials are needed for the csm button would realize how they work. I think it is better than saying put the csm button on S the top dial on CH and mash the shutter button — there is no example of when to use that or why.
The X-T5 is a wonderful tool, but sometimes examples, humorous or otherwise, help new users understand it better when the manual does not help or when people tell new users to just leave it alone. 

This switch is for your lens’ auto-focusing.
”C” tells the body to use continuous focusing, either CL (low speed -  for slow moving puppies, kittens or kids) CH (high speed - for faster moving puppies, kittens or kids or anything that.moves quickly or frenetically). CH or CL is set using the top dial settings. The subject keeps moving and it may be tricky to keep trying to focus to get the photo using the standard compose / focus/ take the photo technique.
”S” is for single shot focusing, point at the subject, half press the shutter button to compose/ focus, then full press to take the photo. Or just push the shutter button to get the image if the situation is suitable.
”M” is for manual focusing, you twist the ring on the lens to set the focus as you want then press the shutter button to get the shot. The focus is entirely up to you, the camera treats the lens as if it does not have a motor in it. Okay, that is mostly true, there are some very old lenses such as the version one 14mm f2.8 lens that can be set to override this setting and autofous anyway, but Fujifilm has not used that design in many years. Note: There are many aids built into the camera to help you manually focus your shots.
https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/
https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/manual-focus/
As you can guess, this switch setting does not have to completely match the top dial settings, manual exposure settings are different than manual focusing, I am surprised you were told not to mess with it.
p.s. You may want to pose your questions in the dedicated X-T5 section to get quicker responses from the X-T5 users.
 

Thank you. I am a pathetic beginner- in way over my head with this camera. Your info is great. I will practice this tonight on cars driving by my street.

So far, it seems like the eclipse is no different visually in the sky than the normal waxing and waning. But as the Moon drifts deeper into the Shadow, the rest of the Moon re-appears tinted red.

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Full eclipse.
3 / 3.

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The Shadow is winning, the Moon is disappearing.
2 / 3.

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Not super happy, but pleased, going back soon for more milky way action!  Assateague Island in late April.

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Come back and take a look again in the Fall, especially in the early misty morning. I think you will like what you see. Late afternoon will also be a treat in a different way.

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