jerryy

"Will you walk into my parlour?" said the Spider to the Fly” * 
Back on page one of this thread, there is a post showing a quick exposure isolating IC 405, The Flaming Star Nebula. That section of the sky has so many things to see it is almost a tourist-oriented nature-viewing area.

Some of the highlights include tadpoles, starfish, spiders, flies, pinwheels and more.

This is the equivalent of just about 56 minutes of exposure.
* The Spider And The Fly by Mary Botham Howitt
Messier Object M36 (The Pinwheel Cluster): https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-36-pinwheel-cluster/
Messier Object M38 (The Starfish Cluster): https://www.go-astronomy.com/messier.php?Messier=M38
IC 417 (The Spider Nebula): https://www.nasa.gov/image-article/spider-nebula/
NGC 1931 (The Fly Nebula): https://waid-observatory.com/ic417-2020-01-19-HOO.html
IC 410 (The Tadpoles Nebula): https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/ic410-the-tadpoles-nebula-a-star-nursery/
And, of course, IC 405 (The Flaming Star Nebula): https://theskylive.com/sky/deepsky/ic405-flaming-star-nebula-object
Will the spider once again coax the fly into its parlour? Will the fly escape the machinations? Their exchange is in the sky for us to ponder...
 

But Sirius-ly Dog Star...
Of all the neat and interesting or just regular things to see in the night sky, Sirius, The Dog Star in constellation Canis Major, is considered the easiest to find, because it is the brightest star in the night sky. Being close to the Orion Constellation also helps make it easy to find. Sirius is going to continue getting brighter because it is moving toward us, in about 60,000 (60.000) years it will be a very close neighbor.


(This is the equivalent of 28 minutes, 20 seconds worth of exposure).
If you can find Sirius up high enough in the sky, then just below it you should be able to find Messier Object M41, The Mini Beehive Cluster (related in name to Messier M44 the Beehive Cluster). Sirius and M41 are companions, tracking together across the night sky. There are some other interesting objects, clusters and nebulae in that region, probably the most famous is Sh2-308, Dolphin Head Nebula.
Canis Major (Big Dog): https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/canis-major-constellation/
Sh2-308: https://astrocat.info/sharpless-308-the-dolphin-nebula/
Sh2-304: http://galaxymap.org/cat/view/sharpless/304
Cr-121 (Collinder Open Cluster): https://in-the-sky.org/data/object.php?id=20726
Messier M41: https://www.go-astronomy.com/messier.php?Messier=M41
Sirius: https://www.space.com/21702-sirius-brightest-star.html
Sirius: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sirius
 

I own the Fuji X-T1 and X-H1. I own several Fuji lenses but I tend to use 3rd party vintage manual glass which I find quite enjoyable to use. I'm testing a photo here taken from my Flickr account that showcases the Tokina 100-300mm Zoom lens with 1.4 extender.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2og3ghr][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52678730517_54489efae3_k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2og3ghr]300mm 1.4 blue jay[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/92395202@N07/]frankweiser[/url], on Flickr

Tulips

It sounds like you have Long Exposure Noise Reduction turned on in your menu settings. LENR is a way of removing hot pixels and some other types of noise that can creep into the images when you are taking long exposures.
You can turn it off in the menu and leave it off and get twice as many exposures than you were getting.
p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Hello,
If you look in the top right-hand corner of each posting, there should be three dots in a row, like this —>  …  <—, click on them and after a moment or twelve, a small menu should drop down from the dots, the last entry in the menu is ‘Edit’. Choose that and after a moment or three you should be in edit mode for that entry. Note: Only you can edit your entries.

What is most ironic about this is that there must be many of us here that would be interested in significant ads about the products we're discussing. I would be. I normally hate ads, but relevant ones here would actually be somewhat welcome.
What are the recent new Fuji product announcements? Is anybody offering a sale? How about 3rd party products? I mean, I actually want to spend money, more or less.

Jerry I found out it's a Cherry Blossom but I can't figure out how to edit it.

Caspian Tern, X-H2s, Fuji 150-600.
 

Cherry Blossom. X-H2s, Fuji 150-600.

Hi All, My name is Seppe and I'm in love with photography!

Don't know how most of you guys take these beautiful shots, but I just love watching them.
I'm thankful for the views of the world they give ma and the cultures I can explore.
In times of trouble, these images can give people hope and show that there is still beauty on this blue marble.
I've been trying for some time now to reproduce what I see from others and have come to the conclusion that that is impossible.
I'll have to find my own style and for that, I wanted to join this Forum.
I'm hoping that through the stories and topics on this forum, I can find the info needed to continue my photographic journey.

Wishing you all a great day and weekend!

Seppe

I tried a series of photos to show how vignetting works as the lens aperture is varied, for the Laowa fisheye. I took outdoor shots low to the ground on a tripod, as I adjusted the aperture ring through each labeled f/ stop detent. Shutter speed was automatic. I pasted a middle slice through the circular image for each aperture into a single slide, then labeled and marked that to post here. The aperture is indicated off the right end of each slice. A red line marks the horizontal center. The slices all contain the same pixel locations from the photos and were treated identically. The photos themselves were all done identically except for the manual aperture settings and the automatic shutter speeds compensating for them.
You can see the ends of the slices are darkened for larger apertures but it improves as aperture is reduced.
I kind of figure that at f/8 and narrower I'm unlikely to notice the vignetting in most pictures. Of course, fisheyes are easy to get enough light into, even handheld in dim conditions.

It usually takes about a week or a few days longer. After taking the battery out, turning the power switch to ‘On’ has been mentioned as helping speed things up, I do not know one way or another about that, but I should mention it.

But Sirius-ly Dog Star...
Of all the neat and interesting or just regular things to see in the night sky, Sirius, The Dog Star in constellation Canis Major, is considered the easiest to find, because it is the brightest star in the night sky. Being close to the Orion Constellation also helps make it easy to find. Sirius is going to continue getting brighter because it is moving toward us, in about 60,000 (60.000) years it will be a very close neighbor.


(This is the equivalent of 28 minutes, 20 seconds worth of exposure).
If you can find Sirius up high enough in the sky, then just below it you should be able to find Messier Object M41, The Mini Beehive Cluster (related in name to Messier M44 the Beehive Cluster). Sirius and M41 are companions, tracking together across the night sky. There are some other interesting objects, clusters and nebulae in that region, probably the most famous is Sh2-308, Dolphin Head Nebula.
Canis Major (Big Dog): https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/canis-major-constellation/
Sh2-308: https://astrocat.info/sharpless-308-the-dolphin-nebula/
Sh2-304: http://galaxymap.org/cat/view/sharpless/304
Cr-121 (Collinder Open Cluster): https://in-the-sky.org/data/object.php?id=20726
Messier M41: https://www.go-astronomy.com/messier.php?Messier=M41
Sirius: https://www.space.com/21702-sirius-brightest-star.html
Sirius: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sirius
 

I can’t say for sure if will remove it but I’d try a dedicated sensor cleaning kit, or if you have a local shop that does repairs they might offer cleaning services too. 

Fuji shooter. X-Pro 1, X-T30, X-T4, XF10, but currently on the X-T5. Based in Los Angeles.
IG: @TOPSHELFJUNIOR 

Yup, catadioptric lenses wipe out CA from your images, they have a few drawbacks; the design means they start off at telephoto focal lengths with fixed apertures and there is a teeny tiny “hole” in the image middle (this is not a big issue, it is usually never noticeable, but it is there). They also tend to be a little heavy and occasionally need adjusting to keep the mirror part collimated. They give you pretty good images.
As I recall, Minolta made a catadioptric lens that could auto focus, this was taken over by Sony who still makes the lens for one of their bodies, but no one else makes one. There are several manual focus ones for Fujilfilm’s X-mount bodies.
Achromatic lenses do remove red-blue fringing, you can often find these types in those screw on macro-diopter lenses or in old box landscape cameras. But they have a problem with green fringing as it is not corrected at all.
To get all three fringings, red-blue-green, folks have shifted over to Apochromatic designs. These are found in high end telephoto camera lenses and more often in refractor telescopes — the triplet design. They currently tend to be expensive.

What jerryy said.
Couple more ideas: putting color filters in front of the lens can help. There are "straw" filters that look very pale yellow, which knock out the shortest blue wavelengths without changing most subjective colors much. Maybe somebody also makes a filter that knocks out the longest reds, also without changing colors much.
And, if you can play a little with composition -- I mean, if your subject lends itself to this -- you can orient the edges with the biggest brightness contrast to be radial in your image, rather than circumferential. Chromatic aberration only happens radially with respect to the optical axis (e.g. the photo center if it's not cropped.
I *think* there are many optical systems that are achromatic, specifically being corrected for two widely spaced wavelengths, that will tend to have green versus purple (red + blue) fringes. Picture a graph of the effective focal length as a function of wavelength, and these systems will be a smile or a frown. For some purposes (such as astrophotography) you can get much fancier and more costly optical systems that are apochromatic, corrected for three wavelengths, whose graph will slope up-down-up or down-up-down. Going beyond that, systems based entirely on mirrors have no chromatic aberration. I guess -- don't know this for sure -- that camera lenses using both mirrors and refraction, catadioptric lenses, could have less chromatic aberration than lenses without mirrors. These are generally fixed focal length, fixed aperture lenses. There are some 3rd party ones available for Fuji X, though I don't remember seeing any that are autofocus.

The bluish fringing is chromatic aberration.
It is a fact of life for photography, especially for high contrasty images taken with zoom lens, and quite often for images taken with zoom lenses set to wide open apertures, maximum or minimum zoom length in high contrasty scenes.
If you have software for processing images, or for converting raw images, look for tools that reduce CA, often called color fringing. With practice you may be able to reduce it to not being noticeable. There are lots and lots of tutorials on the internet about reducing CA.
If you only shoot jpeg images, try stopping the lens aperture down some, or kick the zoom back a little. CA tends to be worse at the edges rather than the frame middle for what that is worth.
Avoiding high contrasty scenes does work, but that is not realistic, so try to get it to the level where you can be happy with the image and do not lose sleep over it.
The CA in the image you posted is not bad at all, you almost have to start pixel peeping, with a little work you can get rid of it, Your lens seems okay, based on this shot.
p.s. Welcome to the forum.