adzman808

I don't think Fuji should copy Leica. The X-Pro1 is not technically a range finder. In many ways it's better (that's why the M240 now has live view and an accessory EVF, at least on the Fuji the OVF/EVF is in the same place!) As others have said, buy an adaptor and you can use pretty much any MF lens you want. And if the sole reason that the OP suggests Fuji to do this, is because he wants a Leica M, but can't afford one, might I humbly suggest a used M8? Not much more than a second hand graphite XT1... (If anything at all) Obviously the REALLY high quality M glass is expensive, but many good lens are available in M mount. I think that with some patience, and maybe a bit of luck in a flea market, junk store etc, you could probably build a M system based around the M8 with 2 or 3 primes (Voitlanger 35 and 50, maybe a summarit 90) for less money than we've all spent on the equivalent Fuji bodies and XF glass If you want a digital Leica M, fair play, but don't expect Fuji to make your Leica dream come true. You don't have to spend M240 and Noctilux money to get into the Leica system!

You can reverse the XP1 finder lever yourself if you desire...

Damn there's where I go wrong I shouldn't ever be using speeds of less than about 1/1000 with my XF35

I'm just going to chip in here that I really like my XF18! I've never had the 23, but I've had the X100s Fuji have made plenty of errors over the years... Most of them are mentioned here! The original X cameras had strap lugs that eat themselves, the AF was pants, there were missing features like auto ISO with min shutter speed. The thing is... Fuji tend to fix their problems... Either via FW updates or new products. Perhaps an A7x is a better choice for the OP.... Get the Zeiss glass, not the Zeiss branded Sony glass (not saying these are bad products, just that the OEM Zeiss at 3-4x the price is probably a bit better) Sony have by contrast, only just realised that users want uncompressed raw, perhaps soon they will realise that users would like an external battery charger too!!! I am just joking!! EVERY camera system has it's limitations, there is no perfection. It's a lot like love.... You cannot find the perfect person... Perhaps you can find the perfect partner for you.... But most likely your 'perfect' partner who is the one is closest to your imagined ideal. You accept this reality when you see that perfection is a fantasy. So learn to love your camera for what it is, rather than what it doesn't have compared to other cameras.... Or accept that it's not love and move on!!

Yeah I'm in the keep it camp... If any of my 3 cameras go, it will be the XT1, nothing against it, but that's how it is.

You're not wrong. Speaking PERSONALLY I have a XT1 and a XP1. I usually use the Pro, because I like it. Even though it's an older camera and a lot slower But speaking GENERICALLY people should buy what ever makes them happy.... ....it's not really about the camera, but if someone has a emotive connection to their tool, they'll always strive to try harder with it, even if that connection is merely 'I've got the latest Fuji' At the end of th day... The first X ILC was a APSC camera, the XP2 will be a APSC camera, the lenses available when the XP2 hits the stores are the same lenses available now (give or take the 35 mk2) so in terms of IQ I can't see there ultimately being a lot of difference between the XP2 and say the XT10 or XT1 etc, so I guess no one should buy it and Fuji should not have even bothered to make it!

Go to any camera group on Flickr (or whatever) and you'll find plenty of mediocre shots, or cliche shots. Any camera can take a great picture. Any camera can make a shot with soul, or emotional impact or beauty or whatever. The cameras that people chose to own are dependent on their budgets, not their photographical ability. You don't need to pass a test to be allowed to buy a Leica or a Hasselblad or whatever, and nor should you.

It's going to depend on what each individual likes about the XP1 IMO... Those that have been asking for "guts of the XT1 in a XP1 body shape, with a OVF" (assuming any XP2 ticks that box) might see little reason to keep the old model. Those that love the X-Trans 1 rendering and different NR, might find they want to hang onto their original copy (assuming that any XP2 doesn't have a X-Trans 1 sensor and identical rendering) I HATE XP Leica M comparisons, so please forgive my following indulgence... I think it'll be like when the M240 replaced the M9 Some will jump to the newer model, enjoy the improvements and never look back Some will say that although the newer one is better, it doesn't have the charm of the original, sell the 2 and re-buy the 1 Some will own both!

If you use these sims as user defined styles, rather than camera profiles, then hovering the mouse will show a preview. But they'll be under the user presets tab, not the camera tab

Thanks very much for sharing these

I expect so, but perhaps not the X-T1 It depends what the XP2 truly offers and I care about, over the original. If it doesn't have the charm of the original, and doesn't add many must have features over the XT1 then I might not want it enough... That said I think it all depends on what they do with the OVF

Thank you very much (I hope it wasn't any rude words?!!) I'm with you on virtually all of that list! I'll add, why can't I change the size of the focus box in MF? And the thumb wheel and changing ISO thing? If you're in OVF and have ISO set as function of the down button (as I do, or presumably the Fn button, which I don't) then the thumb wheel with change the ISO value (one you press the down arrow) and the L & R buttons will not... in you're in EVF and press the down button to select ISO, then the L & R buttons change it, and the thumb wheel does nothing! Crazy!! The (IMO poorly named) basic set in the Q menu, means "what the camera is currently set too" - I think of it a LITTLE bit like computer memory, the C1-7 is ROM, it's always there, but BASIC is RAM, when you change the values, they get overwritten!! Some Cameras close the shutter by default when you change lenses... I think that's a great idea - well unless you accidently shove something in there like a lens cap of a finger as the shutter is probably quite delicate

Strange thing is, just lately my XP1 shots have been getting all the (comparative) lime light in my photo stream, so I've given up trying to reason it!! I've been having a little play with LR CC, I still prefer C1, but it's not as clear cut as it used to be for me... I'm finding that although I prefer the output of C1, I seem to have to work a lot harder to get it, then I have too in LR

So with all the global great deals available on the XP1, and the fact that the XT1 has been out 18 months already, you don't think that anyone is interested in seeing XP1 shots? You think that no one is considering buying the XP1 and is curious to search out pictures made by it? It's not simple at all! I think that's true of a brand new camera, especially for people like Rico who get to try new cameras before they're released to the general public (being a renowned Fuji expert and author of technical Fuji literature [as well as a great photographer] probably doesn't do his hit count any harm either!!), for older models, I'm not so sure

Weird thing is... just lately my X-Pro1 views have leapt right up, and are now on par with my XT1 views. I think you might be on to something with 'random number generator' Andrew!

You beat me too it Milandro !!

http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/X-Pro1/leather/X-Pro1_LeatherKit.php DIY job though.... He provides a training video on you tube

I tried to make a test for you this morning, but it wasn't very scientific I should try again! Anyway, I noticed that my XP1 is more accurate with the frame lines on the left hand side, which was about right, compared to the right hand side which gave me more in the shot that I'd planned. If in your test shot the post was where the frame line was, then I'd say I got about the same amount if extra framing on my right hand side too

FWIW, I might be tempted to test this vice versa Put the camera on a tripod Frame a shot with the EVF Then swap to OVF, half press the shutter button and see if the framelines are close to where the framing was in the EVF

One question to the OP Are you, 1) looking through the OVF, framing the shot and taking the picture? Or 2) looking through the OVF, framing the shot, half pressing the shutter button to induce the camera to move the framing box to adjust for parallax and then taking the picture?

For no other reason than “I want too & I LOVE it” I thought I’d review my (the) X-PRO1. This review is merely the ramblings of an enthusiastic enthusiast, a mediocre amateur who’s entire skill (and I use the word in its loosest possible sense) set pretty much comprises thinking, ‘that looks nice, I think I’ll snap it’ a man who’s post posting technique pretty much stops at, “lets saturate the colours and make it darker” Anyone subjected to hours of the kids show, Peppa Pig, should recognise the Mr Bull character and his catch phrase of “let’s dig up the road” well, that phrase could easily be applied to my desire to take pictures. Now some of you may read this, and somehow get offended, how dare I say some of these things? Well try 1)reading to the end and 2)not skim reading. Anyway… Part One So the X-PRO1, what’s all the fuss - mythology and downright untruths… The X-PRO1 is so well built, easily the best in the Fuji range? As the kidz say “lolwhut?” The X-PRO1 is far bigger than it needs to be technically (don’t fret we’ll come to ergonomics later), it hasn’t got any extra stuff inside that the smaller X bodies don’t, and the net result is of a rather hollow feeling camera that belies its physical bulk. The dials have a pleasant tactile feeling, but wobble about a bit if pushed and the EV is so easy to rotate that checking it’s where you left it (it won’t be) quickly becomes second nature. The Frame Lever sorry EVF/OVF switch is upside down IMO (well mine isn’t because I took it off and mounted it the correct way up!), it’s attachment feels flimsy and the whole mechanism for swapping between OVF & EVF feels like the camera is performing a great labour The scroll wheel on the back feels especially flimsy, wobbling about with too much vertical play, but it does at least have the decency to double as a physical button (X-T1 why don’t you have this?) The shutter button rattles about like a ball joint that passed its useful life several thousand miles ago. The slow operational speed of the X-PRO1 makes me a better photographer. It gives me time to think No. You give you time to think. BUT personally speaking the fact that the X-PRO1 is slow, means I have to work to its pace. This helps me; I suspect that you’re already capable of thinking photographically. Perhaps you’ve even learnt to plan your shots before bringing the camera to your eye or even before you’ve left the house that day! The honest truth IMHO is that learning a slow and quirky camera makes you better at using a slow and quirky camera. If in the course of that learning curve you learn more about photography in general, then rejoice – but take the damn credit - YOU did that, not the camera. The X-PRO1 files are almost film like in appearance Are they F***. Film is film like. The X-PRO1 is just less digital looking than other more modern cameras (like any X-Trans II camera for example) IMO, the X-PRO1 output is bit like CD vs MP3, sure CD sounds more analogue LIKE than MP3, but don’t be trying to tell me that CD is wild, raw and scratchy like a record (or indeed film) because it’s not. OK so that’s my personal take on the myths and untruths, let’s move beyond this apparent unpleasantness and get straight too Part Two Emotive engagement - the importance of being Earnest A crap job with a great wage is hard toil, a great job with a liveable wage is a joy to undertake So, imHo the X-PRO1 is not the über build quality, files like film, free photography lesson with every click, that some would have you believe. So what. It’s without any shadow of doubt in my mind an absolute joy to shoot with. It’s truly greater than the sum of its component parts. Like a Morgan or Westfield sports cars or SS model Rolexes, less is definitely more. In a disposable prosumer world where pretty much every camera is differentiated only by its manufacturer and lens mount, not its spec sheet, where every little black mag alloy box shares must have features that are ground into obsolescence by the next release, it is (in my opinion) an absolute bloody sheer magical delight to use a camera that’s kinda like a camera. No, I don’t mean shutter dials that miss off half speeds or fly-by-wire aperture rings or snail-by-wire focus rings – I mean a camera that doesn’t have Wi-Fi or GPS or have the need for the user to remember when to use or not to use an electronic shutter, the X-PRO1 is a camera that demands you to either 1)know 2)figure out 3)feel out with trial & error, the best settings. Sure this process means more balls up shots, more missed shots, harder (MUCH harder) work with moving objects, but it also means a damn sight more reward when what comes out of the camera is pleasing, you can, with complete honesty say “I made that” and you can feel proud too, because with the X-PRO1 it might not of been easy This brings me to engagement, for me I like LOVE that the X-PRO1 challenges me, it inspires me to try harder, then try harder still. OK, full disclosure… I also have a X-T1, because y’know, my 3 year moves around a lot, and it’s nice to be able to shoot wide open without needing an ND filter and its nice having so many controls at my fingertips. But the X-T1 just makes me fire off more blanks than the Territorial Army, it’s a fast camera and it makes me feel the need for speed, it’s a hyper sports motorcycle, tearing up the highway, the X-PRO1 isn’t a bike… it’s a chopper baby, cruising the highway and taking in the sights and views [i want to work the phrase ‘Zed’s Dead’ into that last paragraph but so far it’s alluding me] Sure the X-PRO1 has a clearly digital output, but its files are its signature dish, run most cameras files through lightroom and they seem to turn out the same… again full disclosure, I don’t use LR, can’t get my head round it, but flick through Flickr’s explore and you’ll see many very samey shots, from many different cameras, nearly always processed with Adobe’s algorithm… Well the X-PRO1 DOES have something with its files… I’m not exactly sure what…. (Reading DPR I think it may be the point at which the tone curve cuts to black, but I don’t understand all those graphs and shit like that. Sorry.) …but there’s a grittiness to the X-PRO1, be it SOOC Jpeg or RAW that’s immeasurably pleasing. Words like ‘organic’ get used a lot… it’s as good as description as any… but for me, just unrelentingly pleasing, worthwhile, special When I feel I’ve got a shot right with the X-PRO1, I’m pleased, I feel I’ve worked for it. The X-PRO1 as a body makes success harder to come by (than many more modern cameras), but because of this the delight when one manages to do so is tangible. The ergonomics of the X-PRO1 are a little bit special too. I know some people love to hate the pseudo SLR styling of many mirrorless models, but let’s be honest here, Panasonic, Olympus, Sony et el all offer “range finder” shaped bodies… well they do if you define range finder as a rectangular camera without a central VF. No the X-PRO1 is special as it’s just that bit bigger, that’s the plus point for that big hollow feeling that I pointed out earlier, you can actually hold the damn thing comfortably. The other obvious thing that the X-PRO1 has is of course that OVF. The inclusion of an OVF is simply to be applauded, no redaction, make that a standing ovation, a design triumph worthy of a ticker tape parade. There are those that say, The X-PRO1 is a pseudo range finder, it’s not a true one. If you want a true digital RF, then the big L is the only game in town and let’s be honest, that’s a very true statement. But it’s also a statement that is, in my view, an oxymoron. The X-PRO1 isn’t trying to be a Leica. Up until the release of the M240 the X-PRO1 was the only game in town that gave you the rangefinder shape, an optical VF AND the ability to use an EVF to check critical focus and framing. And at time of writing (Aug 2015) the X-PRO1 is still the only camera that can offer this without taking your eye away from the view finder. And let’s not forget the magic of having different strength magnifications of OVF to choose from! The Leica cameras may indeed be the only digital range finder game in town, but the X-PRO1 is a whole new 21st century game. The X100T shows how this game can go, and it can go in a very good direction. [Full disclosure: I’ve nothing against Leica, or Leica shooters and I’d like to try one, one day…] Part Three Accessories – pimp my ride or must haves? The X-PRO1 was as you’ll know, released with three prime lenses. Yup primes, the de rigueur 18-55 didn’t arrive until later. I love the 3 original primes (& to a slightly lesser extent the XF27) they –too me- capture the essence of what the X-PRO1 is all about, a decent sized camera body, with small primes that are fast and sharp. I’m not completely daft, I realise the 16/23/56/90 are almost certainly better lenses, but they’re comparatively big, they’re comparatively expensive and –too me- they don’t fit with the original X-PRO1 design ethos. [i might very well get the XF23 for my X-T1 though, and the 120 macro] The X-PRO1 also has a leather case and the original hand grip. IMO these products are both superb and perfectly fit with the X-PRO1. Namely each is pretty useless if you’re in a hurry, but if you’re prepared to take your time, and accept that they need removing to access anything and that removing them is s-l-o-w then the quality is excellent. The grip may not have Arca Swiss dovetails and a hole for the batter/card door, the case doesn’t have that handy flap of the later X100 case, but… so what?! The case is imo very well executed, the folding down front flap has so far managed to stay attached, even when left dangling for long periods of time (unlike my X100S case that I managed to lose the top part from) The grip truly looks like it’s part of the camera, it simply improves the grip. Immensely. The X-PRO1, the original primes, the original accessories even have a level of luxury packaging not found on the later bodies and lenses. So, in summary, the accessories are must haves [especially the lenses ] they add to the camera, and they enrich the overall ownership experience. I also tried an eye cup from another camera (didn’t like it) and I’ve fitted a soft release (love it) I also use 2 spare aftermarket batteries (no issues with them so far, after 15 months) Conclusion OMG dear reader, are you really still here? Oh no wait, now I get it, you skipped straight to this bit didn’t you?!!! OK, so as I set out very clearly, just over 1900 words ago, I love this camera. I’ve even owned the damn thing twice. Now for me, the X-PRO1 is famous for myths and untruths. It’s not the last word in build quality. It’s the first of a line of steadily improving X bodies Yes, yes, YES – I get it. The D Pad buttons are nicer to push than the blind key hole surgery that is the X-T1 D Pad. S-LO-W C-L-A-P. That doesn’t make for a superior build. You might prefer it (on th X-PRO1), sure why not, but IMO the X-T1 is a superiorly manufactured product in so many ways The X-PRO1 is neither a Leica M clone nor a Leica wannabe. It’s a rangefinder concept camera born and dragged kicking and screaming with life into the twenty first century. People need to cut the umbilical cord on this Leica/Fuji shit. I suspect future iterations of the M will be more comparable to the X-PRO1 than vice versa…. Just a hunch. The slowness of the X-PRO1 doesn’t make you a better photographer. You make you a better photographer, BUT the X-PRO1 is a fine tool to take with you on that journey. The X-PRO1 files don’t look like film. The look like X-PRO1 files, not like Sony/Panasonic/Olympus files, not even like X-T1 files, they look like X-PRO1 files. Rejoice in them - for identity is important. The Hybrid OVF is ingenious and very special. OK… I think I’m done….. If you care - all my X-PRO1 Flickr pics can be found here https://flic.kr/s/aHsjUEpU8D Regards Adam

I think Fuji publish a figure for frameline accuracy... Perhaps it's 90something percent. I don't remember exactly I think the accuracy varies depending on things like target distance For me? The OVF is a feature, great for capturing the moment (provided that I've pre focused and preclocked exposure) great for seeing when something is about to enter the frame. Great for helping me compose a shot, I can see how it might look if I move the camera a bit But for critical focus, and critical framing, the EVF is your friend (as you have stated) I've never owned a Leica nor shot with one, but there's a reason the M240 offers live view and an accessory EVF and the Q doesn't have a OVF and that reason is focus and framing

I shoot both raw and jpeg. Sometimes the jpeg wins, sometimes it doesn't... I also find the jpeg rendering quite different between X bodies... Velvia is a prime example, to my eye, completely different between the XE1/XP1/X100S/XT1 For me, the XT1 more often than not goes to raw processing My XP1 more often makes jepgs that I leave SOOC I also think it depends on what you're shooting, if for example the image I want has a massive leap between dark and light, I can get this SOOC, but if I PP the raw, the convertor generally tries to fix the shadows, so then I have to muck about with image brightness and it's easier to just to go with the SOOC jpeg... IMO if you need the maximum detail from highlight and shadow, then RAW is the best way... I use capture one.... A fun game to play with capture one, is too select a base profile, NOT from your camera, this way you can change the look of your image quickly and easily, without changing specific colour curves and saturations. Like a subdued colour with open shadows? Try one of their canon profiles, what to saturate bright colours, but not the whole image? Try one of their Leica profiles, there's lots to choose from! The Fuji jpegs are superb, they really are, but really IMO you'd need to change your DR/Shadow/Highlight/Film Sim between shots to maximise the Fuji jpeg engine, and ultimately this is easier afterwards... You can of course do this in camera... Quite I few times I'm not satisfied with MY raw PP, nor what I got SOOC, so the raf/jpeg goes back on the SD card and I edit it in camera and I get what I want! My XT1 jpegs settings are: Prog neg std Colour +1 Sharp +1 Highlighlight -2 Shadow -1 NR -2 DR Auto I also have a Velvia setting that is the same as above, but with colour set too -2

Yeah the xf27 is made in China, but it matters not where a product is made, it matters about the QC, and to a greater extent the aftersales support. There are some stories of aperture problems on some XF lenses, namely the electrical contacts that tell the camera what aperture you've twisted the ring too can become detached. I've had 3 xf18s the first I sold BNIB so I cannot comment, the second had the loosest aperture ring of any XF lens I've ever owned (& that's 7) the third has the nicest aperture ring movement of any of my XF lenses. My first XP1 collected so much internal dust, I nicknamed him 'Dyson' (Fuji cleaned it under warranty to be fair) this XP1 also eat its own strap lugs, which Fuji also fixed under warranty My XT1 has so far (15 months) been good as gold, some have complained of peeling grips, bulging doors, but mine has been ok What to make of this...? Well sh*t happens! The biggest complaint is not a problem with the product, but a problem with the customer service... That is the worst thing, and sadly the quality of Fuji service seems to vary dependant upon where you live in the world. Of course if you type "Panasonic/Sony/Pentax/Fuji/Leica/Olypmus/*whatever* problems" into Google you will get a lot of hits, so the problem is not necessarily a Fuji one, but a reflection of the mass production and disposable product nature of the modern world. As I say, manufacturers need to offer decent customer service, because some of us will always find a problem product. For some countries Fuji seem to do this, for others it seems not... ...that's the tragedy in my opinion.

Probably because of the dedicated ISO dial on the X-T1, Fuji expect you to rotate that instead of the front dial