man-overboard

Relaxing in Amsterdam on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

Viking Mani on Rhine

Water bus in Stockholm

The 30 is an exceptional lens. It has become my every day carry.
The 50 is an excellent lens and was on my 100S until I bought the 30. 
The 80 is also a wonderful lens for portraiture but the slightly longer 110 is in a class of it's own.
The 100-200 is made with some kind of pixie dust. It can be hand-held at 1/25 of a second and fully extended. Rock solid pictures with my aging body.
 
 

An update: I decided to give this another try. I toggled between the “airplane” and “home” icons in the +/- GMT and “daylight savings” offset, then I stepped through the different month/day/year format settings, and suddenly the “24 hr” versus the “am/pm” time formats became available and I was able to choose. It must be a bug in the firmware. 
Now all is good and I can sleep better. 
 

FWIW, I've never had a problem with accidentally changing settings on my X-H1 while carrying it around, but my X100F will change settings as it bumps my waist while slung over my shoulder. The lock function (which I leave on all the time) has saved me a lot of aggravation. 

I was delighted to see the that latest Firmware (V3) has addressed this issue by allowing RAW shooting when in Advanced Filters. Anything shot by accident in Advanced Filter mode ( as above !) would  now be recoverable provided Image Quality is set up for RAW & Jpeg.  What happened to some of us need not happen to anyone else again.
THANK YOU for making this amendment  FUJIFILM !

this just happened to me. we were high in the mountains just before sundown. amazing scenery. then the viewfinder images all looked wierd. then realized camera was shooting this stupid thing called toy camera. at 2100m in late december is no time to figure this out. and the fotos suck. now warmly at home i am trying to figure out how to disable these dumb__s advance filters.

You have my sympathies.

Sheet happens, and we all get visited sooner or later.

A few weeks after purchasing the X-Pro 2 ( my first Fujifilm camera ) and trying it out in varying situations to arrive at a set-up that suited me ( based around Aperture Priority, RAW/Jpeg, Auto ISO ), with technically impressive output, I confidently set off on a long awaited holiday to India to take some serious pictures.
 
A week in, I noticed a sudden change in the camera's performance and in the appearance of subsequent images displayed on the LCD screen ( grunge colours, vignetting, strobing of skies ).
The camera had switched to just shooting Jpeg in both slots and various Menu items where no longer available. As a relative novice and not realising that it had been something I'd done I carried on shooting for the rest of the trip vainly hoping that the Jpegs would be of a decent quality and that the fault was as much in the LCD display as anything.
 
Needless to say, it wasn't ...
 
I HAD SWITCHED FROM 'STILL IMAGE' TO 'ADVANCED FILTER' MODE BY ACCIDENTALLY DEPRESSING THE 'DRIVE' BUTTON ON THE BACK OF THE CAMERA
 
When I got home and downloaded the images to my computer the full horror of what I had done hit me. Not only had Advanced Filter been unwittingly selected but it had defaulted to the 'Toy Camera' option – just about the worst option in the list IMHO ( not that I'd ever be interested in using any of these filters ).
 
Unless I am mistaken there is no way back for these images ( there are no RAW files ). I've tried to rescue some in PS by removing Colour Cast, Desaturating, Cropping, and Cloning, but there are limits to the extent the damage can be hidden.
 
Plea to Fuji – make the default the LEAST OBTRUSIVE filter when Advanced Filters are selected, deliberately or otherwise
 
Plea to other new Xpro2 users - be careful and watch for with this ( its worse than the Exp Comp dial curse that is widely reported – at least if you shoot RAW you can remedy that one ) ….
 
Time to crawl away and cry …...........

Coming back to Fujifilm with these triple 30/50/80. Great lenses. This 'flying machine' with the 50mm lens.

Discovered this beauty under the fake plastic boulder that covers our well, when I was mowing today. I kept my distance, and cropped after the fact, though I wish I had added my 2X extender to the 80 mm Fuji macro. Handheld at 1/1250 seconds with OIS, f/4, ISO 5000, overcast sky lighting. Google Lens identifies it as a Southern Black Widow.

Resolved the issue. If someone has the same issue. It seems that the hot-shoe and flash are a really tight fit, and I had to wriggle it the last bit. It stops right before it is supposed to with a click, which made me think it had reached the slot it was supposed to. Pushing with force was less effective than wriggling. So. User error. 

I use both types of cards on my XH2 and XH2S. Some video settings require the CFexpress, which I try to use for all shooting because of the read/write speeds. I shoot landscape, sports, portraits and 4K video. If you stomp on the shutter in continuous shooting mode, speed in the camera and at home when importing is a real thing. I recently switched from Sandisk to Delkin Black, very solid construction and very fast to offload. B&H website states this for the Delkin Devices 150GB BLACK CFexpress Type B Memory Card.
Max Read Speed: 1725 MB/s Min Write Speed: 1530 MB/s Worth every penny, I would suggest. Delkin also sells a really robost card reader as well for SD & CFexpress.

The new Fuji XF 8mm F3.5 arrived!
And, with it, and with the 100-400 zoom plus the 2x tele extender, I took a couple pictures illustrating the perspective we are discussing in this thread. The long lens is 100 times the focal length of the short one.
I set a workshop stool out in the driveway in full sun. On top I put a cardboard box with the flaps cut off, with two water bottles taped together inside it. I hoped this simple geometry would share some characteristics with the car in a shop pictured above.
With the 8 mm lens I was able to take a picture from about 3 inches from the bottle caps. With the 800 mm lens I could take a picture from 72 feet. In both pictures the seat of the stool occupied roughly the same fraction of the viewfinder width. Then I cropped both pictures to slightly more than cover the stool seat.
There's a huge difference in how the shapes look. Note how in one photo the inside side walls of the box are plainly visible (I was exposing for them) and in the other only the rear wall is visible. Also notice how the bottle caps flare wide relative to the bottoms of the bottles (which aren't visible but you can judge where they must be). All the round things are circular in the photos, and the box (though it's a bit bendy) has substantially straight outlines.
Just to help with understanding the setup, I also included a very small file size iPhone photo.

Ok, I freely admit my sense of humor stop developing at 12 y/o so I found this funny as hell, even if it was just and accidental mis-spell.

I use a Fujifilm 16mm i.e. a 24mm equivalent lens. I can do a whole car meeting with just that lens and the Fujifilm 33mm lens. In the past I have used 35mm/28mm on Leica cameras.
At the next car meeting I will go to it will be the Fuji XF16mm and the GF 30 on a GFX.
Have a look here: US Cars with XF16mm all shots with the 16mm and for a fun test, all videos with the GFX and GF 50.

thanks a lot! 
3 days ago I found the 23mm F1.4 R which must be the equivalent of 35mm on Sony, I'm going to try it tomorrow 
Looks like 50mm F1.0 must be used for half car or details to ensure "correct" looking imagines 
Maybe I must buy Fuji 35mm F1.4 to have the most flexible lens for car photography?

The types of distortions that would appear are barrel or pin-cushion distortions, but this shot does not seem to have any. The 35mm is in the “wide-angle” lens group and the 50mm is in the “normal” lens group. Going from the wider to the narrower will give you some lens compression effect, where things look a little more smushed together. That effect is more pronounced going from wide angle to telephoto, i.e. lenses 70mm or longer.
Looking correct is subjective, if you were used to the 50mm - 70mm range, you would probably not have noticed this effect when you changed from the Sony world.

You don't have distortions. Look at the ends of the exhaust pipes, and the wheels on the blue contraptions. They look perfectly circular to me.
If you want the perspective to seem right, you have to view your image from different distances depending on the lens focal length. You want the angle your eye sees between edges of the photo to match the real life angle between edges of the scene. If you do that, even the famous giant nose effect from close up wide angle portraits goes away.

Welcome Louis!
You are aware that it's the same management as in the Leica Forum?
Andreas

I wonder how many former members of the Leica forum are here... my old spiritual home... no longer since I left Leica and went Fuji.
biglouis

Ha! Yes I feel the same in that way. I bought way too much Canon kit, not using 80-90% of it!
This time I will be getting the X-T5 and an XF23 f1.4 to start with! I'll likely 'need' at least a couple more primes over time, but I'll start with just the one!