asathor

I know I am late but try fixed high ISO to get the Across grain - I like that effect.

The free ATTO disk benchmark can test you cards but your computers card-reader will influence the speed if it is not fast enough or not USB 3 - however it will still give you a good indication of card health: https://www.atto.com/disk-benchmark/ Write speed is usually not given because they are often a lot lower than the useless read speed.

If it works correctly in automatic with mechanical shutter then the shutter is fine but the shutter control settings are not coming through. That's a software/firmware issue. Try a complete reset - else send it in so Fuji can reprogram it - flashing will probably not fix it - unless the update has a specific fix for this issue it probably will not rewrite these functions.

1. Clean cards the with a pencil eraser and format and test them on a computer first to see if they are OK. 2. Then take pictures to see if OK. 3. Now Format in Camera and test again. 4. Test in each slot separately. if cards fails in one slot but not the other that slot needs to be professionally cleaned (don't try this at home) if the cards fail in both slots the camera firmware or hardware failed = service. You can try resetting the camera first but there is no way of knowing if that would help.

#1 Multi aspect-ration sensor is my #1 Imagine a square 24MP for shooting portraits in Across (or whatever you like) and a wider aspect for landscape. An oversized sensor could do this with essentially the same pixel size and effective higher resolution output since you wouldn't need to crop. #2 A menu system with context sensitive menu's that show you what is available and unavailable for all settings and leaves everything in the same place so you can see the changes when you for example chose manual vs auto focus. #3 Downsize but add a decent grip for single handed shooting.

I own and enjoy the X-Pro2 but that does make it fit in a pocket. My old X-M1 does and the new X-E3 is much closer to pocket size. I love the optical viewfinder but the Electronic viewfinders are absolutely sufficient for 99.999 % of my work. While waiting for the X-Pro2 I bought an X-E2 and you don't need the megapixels until you crop tight, they are cheap now and great in expensive cameras that are still reasonably compact.

Have you tried a firmware update? It should not be needed but since it will reset most everything when you run it it is worth a try (and harmless) I believe there is a lens update as well that ties in with the XP2 update that improved focus. It's a great little lens, the field is not 100% flat but that has not been a problem however it is sensitive to cross light and it doesn't have a hood which is a faux-pas at the price.I made a cheap felt tube that fits the barrel - it works when I remember it.

Nice work, and not an easy environment!

I thought delete was a subset of edit

Just assembled this so I am not fully moved in. Just about perfect dimensions. Two Ikea CD storage units and doors from their bookshelves. You have to drill your own holes for the hinges but that was easy as the hinges can be installed on the door first for proper spacing.

I gravitate towards Astia for colorful costumes and stage lights with strange color spectrum's, it is more flexible and overloads progressively. And - yes - use it with RAW so you can change your mind.

The camera can only do a "Quick Format" - this means that it removes the directory and writes a new empty one - it does not delete anything or read the whole card . You can let the camera do the Quick Format so it matches Fuji's firmware 100%. But from time to time or when experiencing problems it is a good idea to have your computer do a complete format (slow) - this way it actually goes through and make sure that all the storage space is addressable.

Buying a new camera instead of new batteries is not a logical solution to a very common problem. NiMH batteries are a CONSUMABLE even if there is are best practices for charging and extending the battery life. Getting an average of 100 shots per battery means that you either have the camera lit up like a Christmas tree with continuous focus running and the Eye Sensor turning ON the electronic viewfinder while it dangles from your strap or more likely that the batteries are shot. A quick Google query reveals that NiMH batteries loose efficiency as the compounds start to crystallizing - in fact they can injure the isolation film between layers in extreme cases. Anyway IT IS TOTALLY NORMAL for NiMH batteries to be used up. It doesn't matter what the application, Laptops also consumes NiMH batteries. When the batteries get tired you buy new ones. Unfortunately we do not have access to the individual cells so reconditioning them is almost impossible except for making sure that they are fully discharged regularly - when you use several at the time in a grip you have to keep track so you are using a matched set - if the batteries go down at different times the load is shifted and the others go that much faster. Note that at least in theory the camera body and the grip should be running on matching batteries. Best practices for a professional would be to label each battery and use them in the assigned "sets" when possible that are fully used up during each use, that way you have a chance of spotting the problem batteries. Better yet use them alone in an extra body you can leave ON until they are fully drawn down - this helps recondition them and it tells you how long they run at the same time. As a professional I would buy a set of three batteries every three month for each rig. After a year test them and sort them using the best in reconfigured sets for back-up and studio use. This way you will be ready for prime time.

Show us your stuff huck222. We all try to contribute each in our own way, please demonstrate what you mean and since you used the work Professional make it at that level.

Like this...

I paid for mine, it doesn't have any particular faults like the overexposure outline describe. I am guessing that the extra processing to add the watermark does it.

cancel that idea (you image came up slowly) you will have to channel Steve Jobs

1. Try some daylight shots of white photo paper or better yet a color chart you know the RGB values for. 2. What are the measured color values of said pink snow? The reason for bringing this up is my experience with 2 monitors one model version apart. The back light on the older one is pink but it is so little that it looks great as a stand alone so it required a controlled experiment to nail the problem.

Marketing Fluff - even if it is pretty. The camera makers are finally learning from the car guys who play this trick every day (Hasselblad of course took the cake with the wooden Sony E). But what if they come out with matching Graphite Gaffer Tape to cover the name?

Downloaded it and it works as expected. I bought a license because $30 makes a lot more sense than spending money on the big guys. We need to encourage the people who are on our side! I'll post something later.

Yes the X-E1 is still a good camera and yes the images are great, and yes focus acquisition is somewhat slow but very precise. The X-E2 with the 18-55mm was on sale briefly for $699 during the last sales cycle - if you need the lens and are OK with this price range (and the Sony holds up) hold your breath for an E2/E2s/T10. With the A-3 and T-20 on the way the next factory authorized sales should be at least as good as the last one. The XF-18-55mm is only discounted as a kit lens (list is a somewhat high $699 and the kit price is now $300 but used are still $400) then the body in a X-E2 kit on sale cost only $300-350 and that's a bargain for a new camera this good.

If you wear glasses forget the Zeiss, you will be fuzzing too much with focus and miss shots. I sold my Rokinon 85 which otherwise renders beautiful images for that reason.

I am not in a place where I can post all samples directly but the links will help. I am using examples featuring our friends in an all women's band Roxxy Hall because they play in a decent venue with typical stage lights that unfortunately rarely are set correctly. Also the bulbs in those lights are never alike nor are they anything the like colors of the daytime world, in fact I suspect they got the red bulbs at a Sauna store they always blow the top of the histogram. My pictures are "fan art" for the band members and regulars consumption, they are not filtered for publication. I set the camera to auto ISO up to 10800 with min speed of 200+ or Auto up to 6400 or 3200 and a little more speed when there is enough light ( shutter speed with dynamic performers like the lead singer here should be well over 1/500s if life was fair.) I then use the Exposure Compensation and Aperture on the fly to avoid gross over-exposure when the lights change. I do use 8fps for some stuff but pay dearly at the sorting table in lost time. Across is awesome for very low light although the apparent resolution drops the results are very satisfying. I don't usually bring zooms (18-55 and 18-135) as they are too slow. I would buy fast primes and a second body before fast zooms. My experience with primes are: The 90mm is a SWEET lens and sharp enough to make up for 1 or 2 stops of speed. Depending on venue you'll only get a couple people in the frame and definitely shallow dept of field, but it is amazingly bulletproof for controlling the focus priority: https://boundarylayers.smugmug.com/Music/Roxxy-Hall-BAnd/Roxxy-Hall-Dec-3-2016/i-xq7prKm/A The 56mm 1.2 is also great but the depth of field at 1.2 is too shallow for a good hit ration with moving performers so you end up working the aperture (which is easy to reach on that lens). This shot https://boundarylayers.smugmug.com/Music/Roxxy-Hall-BAnd/Roxxy-Hall-1152016/i-n4Q27qF/A shows both the issue with depth of field and inadequate shutter speed for dynamic performers. The 60mm is good but slower to focus which works against you if you don't have a stationary object to focus on. https://boundarylayers.smugmug.com/Music/Roxxy-Hall-BAnd/Roxxy-Hall-Band-and-Friends/i-kTnjp3F/A The 35mm f2 is great except for some barrel distortion so watch for microphone stands etc. (I don't have the 35 f1.4) I have not bought a 23 or 16 yet but am leaning towards the 16mm 1.4 despite the bulk since the 27 is so sharp. The 27 is great for wide shots where it takes in plenty of light with good depth of field. This shot is Across/90mm/f:2/200/6400/+0.33V/Straight Out Of Camera