Tom H.

For manual shooting I really like the Cactus V6 and RF60 flashes. I used the Godox ones for a while, but their batteries are brand specific, so who knows someday you may not be able to replace a broken one. And they do break, I lost 2 in a few months. For TTL shooting with Fuji, you could get a Nikon flash and shoot TTL with Roboshoot triggers. Nikons are never a bad investment, but unless you absolutely need TTL, they are overkill. And the Roboshoot triggers aren't cheap either.

Whatever works for you or the client, in the end only that really matters.

If you're shooting for fun, you could always take less lenses Less desire to swap that way. I usually take a 23 or a 35 and that'll do. The 16-55 is slower, but image quality is still good/great, as long as you don't need ultra fast apertures. For me, the weight is the biggest issue.

Lens caps on Fuji are the worst I've ever seen. The spring tension is ridiculously low, so at the lightest touch of the cap, it will fall off... It's a guarantee that when I reach for my camera in my bag, the cap will be off and the lens will be exposed to all the dirt and other items in it. Any generic 2$ lens cap does it better, so seriously Fuji, buy those and just stamp Fuji on them, or get it right. As for lens hoods, I've said it so many times, if you design a proper hood, and then sell it separately for 50$, shame on you. I just got the 35 f2 and it's the same old story again. It comes with a ridiculous screw-in hood, so you can mount either the hood, or the cap, not both. So that will mean losing the hood in your bag or somewhere else... And the cap will come off if you just look at it... Some people may not care, but for the 2$ in plastic or sheet metal those hoods cost to make, I see no point not to include them with the lens and to make sure they work properly.

I use a safety razor too, guess I better start saving for those adapters ;-)

Agreed, I'm looking at you Canon/Apple, but then again, if you don't buy it, that's the best incentive you can give those manufacturers. Fuji is already doing a fine job on bringing a second life to older cameras, I don't see why such a service should be paid for. I pay for that service by investing in their system to begin with. Let's be honest, in electronics, things move so fast that most significant upgrades require new hardware. I was just ripping my cd's and dvd's to hard drive a few years ago to "store them indefinitely"... In the meantime, Netflix and Google Play Music have made sure I haven't touched a cd or dvd or even my stored content in more than 2 years. Now I focus on the pricinple of "as little as possible", and it is liberating to be free from GAS. I've never been as creative as in my last 2 years...

Nobody says you have to buy the new model when it comes. I shot with a Canon 500D very happily for 7 years. I used it till it's last breath. Software upgrading sounds nice, but that would mean all cameras need to be fitted with extra capacity on cpu, memory,... That would cost extra for features you may or may not get in the future... And some things can only be done via hardware anyway... For electronics, a 2,5-3 year product cycle is a good average. Less is just plain silly, and more tends to make the company lose customers to other brands. If you want to save the environment, there is much else you can already do today. Eat meat only once a week perhaps? Use less water. Drive less. Buy sustainable clothes. Buy locally produced and seasonal food. Don't buy stuff you don't need. Start there.

X100 premium, X70 budget X-T2 premium, X-T20 budget X-Pro 2 premium, X-E2s budget Seems like a good platform to build on. As said, the compact market is shrinking rapidly, would make sense for Fuji to stay in the upper segment and clear out the lower end. Less models in the line-up could also allow a bit quicker refresh of the models, to avoid another 5 year wait for an X-Pro update. A step every 2,5-3 years would make sense for the top models.

If you need a racing stripe, your best bet is buying an old Nikon F3 :D

I had it on my E-M1, and while it would be nice to have on a Fuji, I don't really miss it as much as I expected.

That is all that needs to be said on the topic. I've been using Lightroom for nearly a decade now. I tried to like Capture One. But why change a system and workflow that works for you, if the end result is only visible when pixel peeping the same image side by side anyway? I have good results with the following, but then again, I thoroughly dislike oversharpened images anyway, since that's what usually is a dead giveaway that it's a digital image, compared to a film/analog picture. I tend to stick more or less to this, unless the image really needs a kick, in which case I'll add extra sharpening on top in Photoshop. Amount: 35-45 Radius: 0.7 Detail: 70 Masking: 0-40 And clarity, depending on the image, but I try to keep it below 40-50 ish. Usually only 10-20 for that extra bump.

I switched from Canon to Olympus 2 years ago, albeit not for weddings. I really liked the em1 for it's build quality, but I love my Fuji's for everything else. The day I got my X100T, I stopped using the em1 altogether. File quality of the Fuji's is way better as from iso 800. For good light, the difference is not that big. Autofocus is a tad slower, but more accurate than my em1 used to be.

Utterly gorgeous!

Hamburg X100T

It's not great on the x100t,for that reason. But just fine on the 16mm and my film cameras.

I'm a noob at street photography. I tend to prefer shooting film on my Xpan for my street shots, but occasionally I'll use the X100T or the X-T1 with the 16 1.4 too. I live in a rural area, so I only get to shoot street when I'm abroad and have time for it. Zone focussing is easiest, using f11 mostly. I tend to keep it at 2m or at 3m, depending where I am. That ensures that sufficient subject matter will be in focus, while allowing me to focus on composition and subject. I have a lens tab, which makes it easy to manual focus quickly. Just remember where certain positions are and focussing is quick and usually accurate enough. I wear casual clothes, but nothing too shabby. I only take bare essentials, camera, strap, perhaps a small inconspicuous messenger bag. Stay friendly, keep moving. I don't tend to stick around in the same place too long. I might spend 5 or 10 minutes if I see something with potential, but usually I stay on the move. If a place looks promising, I'll revisit it during different times of day. Wear comfortable shoes, that helps. I'm very tall, so stealth is never an option for me, I tend to get noticed quickly. Smaller cameras help, makes me look more like a tourist. Smile when people notice you, if someone takes offence, try to explain but just delete the photo if they ask. I try to look "through" people when they noticed me, as if I'm looking at something behind them. That almost always works. Or look annoyed, like they ruined your shot by being in the frame.

The ear. Venice, Italy, X100T.

The finger. Venice, Italy, X100T.

Geneva, yesterday evening. Seeing the light change every minute never ceases to be amazing. X-T1 & 50-140 2.8.

Always a possibility

Yesterday, over the Alps. X100T and TCL.

Wait, cameras take pictures? But what about endlessly discussing spec lists and starting fanboy wars? When on earth do you find time to take pictures after that?

But what will we then do with all this empty forum space?

23 f2 in similar fashion as the 35 f2 please. And after that, do the 18 and 27 too please ☺️

I have to stop down my 56 1.2 often to f2 or smaller, just because so little is in focus. I'm talking iris sharp, and the eyelashes already unsharp. F0.95 is for bragging rights mostly, or very dim conditions with slowish film. I still shoot medium format film. I shoot it for the colour and skin tones, not the dof.