Greybeard

Looks like a bug to me - doesn't seem to affect the autofocus - I have AF Point Display set to off so hadn't noticed before.

Make sure you have Dynamic Range set to DR100 (on the second page of the Image Quality Setting menu)

One thing I would recommend is to set up C1-C7 using X Raw Studio on a computer - especially if you are going to create long names - much easier with a full size keyboard

Make sure you have Dynamic Range set to DR100 (on the second page of the Image Quality Setting menu)

They differ... at first, I thought it was the videos over 15 min or so, but today I noticed a few around 4-5 min were not working either. 

The best way to move movies is to use a card reader. There is a limit to the size of file (4GB) that can be moved via cable - you don't say how long those videos are but it could well be the reason you are having problems.

Actually I believe with the 3-way tillt you could get the Sensor/Camera CLOSER to the ground - allowing a more level staight-on shot.  Not possible with the Articulating screen as it gets in the way of the ground flipped out all the way.  

Wouldn't it have just as easy with the old style (X-T3) tilting screen (without the screen being off to the side of the camera)?

I don't understand the big deal about this - ISO can be assigned to the dpad - press up and ISO goes up - press down and ISO goes down - it shows in the EVF but it doesn't fill the EVF and disappears as soon as the change has been made.

I don't understand the big deal about this - ISO can be assigned to the dpad - press up and ISO goes up - press down and ISO goes down - it shows in the EVF but it doesn't fill the EVF and disappears as soon as the change has been made.

I don't understand the big deal about this - ISO can be assigned to the dpad - press up and ISO goes up - press down and ISO goes down - it shows in the EVF but it doesn't fill the EVF and disappears as soon as the change has been made.

You are shooting compressed raw - Apple doesn't support compressed raw.
You will either have to switch to uncompressed or put up with the grey squares.
There are, however, plenty of programs (such as Lightroom) that will be able to open those compressed raw files on the Mac its just anything native Apple (such as finder and preview that won't recognize them).
FastRawViewer on the Mac is a good choice if you want to quickly view your raw files (and it supports both compressed and uncompressed raw).

In aperture priority - set the lens wide open - choose a scene with objects at different distances - now press the button you have assigned to "PREVIEW DEPTH OF FIELD" and the effect should be obvious. 
(I checked it with X-S10 but X-T4 should be much the same - its not something I ever use as half press will do the same and also focus on the subject)
 

The problem I have with the review is that it doesn't address what I think is the main advantage of the camera for stills photographers i.e. speed and improved autofocus. He says that face/eye detection has not improved over the X-T4 but does not address subject tracking (beyond the comment that animals should not have been divided into birds and others which I agree with).
If you don't test the camera for its abilities to shoot wildlife and sports its difficult to come up with any conclusions about its value.
Much of the review was centered around what I think are relatively trivial criticisms - like the lack of focus mode switch, dial click switches and the lack of a battery charger.
I also think the review could have been 20 minutes shorter - and still have made the main points.

Yes - I didn't mention build quality - I don't have an X-H1 to compare but I certainly have no complaints about the X-H2S. Its rock solid and all buttons and dials work exactly as they should - no unnecessary play. It gives every impression it will continue working for years. I haven't yet had need to test the weather sealing but everything fits well together - and in fact the removal of the AF mode switch and dial press switches are only going to improve the overall weather resistance.
As for murkiness - I just haven't seen it - perhaps someone will post some examples so I know what to look out for (and situations where the murkiness will appear)

Yes - I didn't mention build quality - I don't have an X-H1 to compare but I certainly have no complaints about the X-H2S. Its rock solid and all buttons and dials work exactly as they should - no unnecessary play. It gives every impression it will continue working for years. I haven't yet had need to test the weather sealing but everything fits well together - and in fact the removal of the AF mode switch and dial press switches are only going to improve the overall weather resistance.
As for murkiness - I just haven't seen it - perhaps someone will post some examples so I know what to look out for (and situations where the murkiness will appear)

Understood. There are so many facets to a new camera that it is bound to create much different opinions, especially when it comes to what was added and deleted over prior models.
Glad your enjoying your H2s, that is really what it is all about, enjoying our hobby no matter
what our taste differences.,  Thanks again and regards, GO

There are a lot of little differences between X-T4 and X-T30 II that may or may not be important to you - better EVF - weather sealing - two card slots (and UHS-II for faster write speed) - larger buffer - better video specs - better battery - faster continuous bursts with mechanical shutter - available battery grip.
What is important to you?
The X-T5 is unlikely to bring much improvement in IQ but it will have the latest processor and sensor so probably all round faster.

No - the closest you could do would be to set up two banks of custom settings and switch between them

Focus and exposure are separate.
Set automatic focus using the switch on the front of the camera (C or S):
https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/taking_photo/autofocus/index.html#focus_mode
Set aperture and shutter speed using dials (shutter speed dial on camera and aperture on lens):
https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/taking_photo/shooting_mode/index.html#manual

Thats an interesting question. IBIS gives you stabilization in more axes than OIS. I can't find anything from FujiFilm that discusses the way they work together on the X-T4. You don't have a choice when you turn on IBIS in the body or OIS on the lens (if applicable) you get both.
The only thing from FujiFilm I could find that discusses IBIS and OIS actually working together is from this firmware update for the X-H1:
https://fujifilm-x.com/en-gb/products/cameras/x-h1/feature-firmware/

I doubt it - it probably needs the faster processor - more likely to wait and implement in the X-T5

Can you find somewhere to try holding the cameras? They are quite different in size and layout and that might help you make up your mind. The X-E4 with the 27mm lens is very small and easier to carry around. 

Can you find somewhere to try holding the cameras? They are quite different in size and layout and that might help you make up your mind. The X-E4 with the 27mm lens is very small and easier to carry around. 

Face/Eye detection on