Greybeard

No but its easy enough to ignore them Thats for the touch screen - if you don't want to use it go into the Setup => Button/Dial Setting menu and turn it off IBIS for stills is controlled in the Shooting menu under IS Mode - you can choose Continuous or Shooting Only

Its a bit difficult to answer without seeing the original image file. Where did you focus? Is that point sharp? Or is the entire image (including the point of focus) soft?

Interesting - sounds like you've found the reason for the discrepancy - I guess the SSD drive option is new to FujiFilm and they don't have it quite right yet

Did you change the cards between days? did you take out the cards between days? did you use the same cards for the entire trip (and both cards in the same slot i.e. not switch cards between slots)? Are both raw and jpeg images on both cards for all images? (Not that I have an answer but looking for something that changed between days)

The usual recommendation is to completely initialize all the settings and see if that fixes it.

M mode on the back of the camera controls focus - aperture priority is for exposure. Maybe I'm missing something - the distance scale isn't going to be affected by your exposure setting (aperture priority). If you change from manual to auto focus and you still want the distance to show you will need to go into the custom display settings in the screen setup menu and check the appropriate setting. As you have the camera why not try it?

Either way should work - both methods allow you to set aperture. (I'm assuming when you say M mode you mean the exposure mode M and not the focus mode M). (I'm also assuming when you say zone focus you mean the technique of setting focus at a specific distance rather then using the AF Mode of Zone).

Auto mode perhaps

Digital image Stabilization

I have the latest software on my iPhone and latest firmware on the camera - image transfer works but very slow for raw files. I always use a card reader to transfer files which seems convenient and very fast.

That sounds correct - I think all recent non PASM cameras work this way allowing you to fine tune a selected shutter speed - its the same with my X100VI

Hmm - I don't seem to be able to replicate it with my camera

Half press the shutter button (with shutter AE set to ON)

That doesn't sound correct - how are you looking at the EXIF? Maybe you can share an image file with EXIF so that we can diagnose the problem.

A film simulation is just one part of the recipe. If you have a recipe selected and change the film simulation none of the other settings within that recipe will change. It would be the same as Grain Effect for example - you could select a recipe and change Grain Effect - nothing else within the recipe with change. You can change the recipe back to "nothing selected" before you change film simulation and the last used recipe settings won't be carried over.

SCREEN SET-UP > AUTOROTATE PB Set to ON

Thanks for the info - I might upgrade when x-trans is fully supported

Which platform? On a Mac you could use Preview to export jpeg files although I don't know how good the conversion would be.

I really like the 90/f2 - especially now that I have camera with IBIS - its a very personal thing but I'd go for the extra reach

I have no answer but HEIC files do open in Photos much slower than RAF files even with a fast M4 pro chip. The M4 iPad pro doesn't appear to have the same problem.

There is a difference between focusing and tracking

You won’t get subject tracking with pre-af until you half press the shutter button

I don't know why the image is stored as jpg - but it takes a while to store the image because it has quite a lot of work to do in taking three images and combining them. If you shoot raw + jpeg it gives you the three raw images together in one large RAF file.

Its difficult to see how any of the settings could cause ISO to switch from 200 to 4000 - I'd suggest you look at the different individual settings in the two recipes and find the one thats causing the difference - some settings like Dynamic Range and D Range Priority could make an ISO difference but not from 200 to 4000. Maybe you can post links to two (straight out of camera) image files - one which resulted in ISO 200 and the other with 4000 and we could see the differences in the settings. (Make sure everything else is identical such as the lighting and the scene).

There is no such thing as EXT3 - do you have X-E3, X-T3 or something else? Which version of Photoshop do you have? If you have an Adobe subscription make sure you have the latest updates. Some cameras do not support raw with certain settings - if you attach an original jpeg (straight out of the camera) we may be able to tell you why the RAF wasn't created.