Greybeard

Have you selected HDR in the Shooting Menu? https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30-2/menu_shooting/shooting_setting/#hdr

Ah - I misunderstood - hopefully its a problem with the card and not the camera - have you tried a different card?

How did you transfer the file from camera to computer? There is a known problem with transferring large files via USB cable and the solution is to use a card reader.

Thanks - I can't make the picture work but my question is answered

Thanks for the update - would the iPad Pro 11" fit better with less camera equipment? Or is it just the size of the tablet?

It works better with Android - Fujifilm just don't seem very good at developing software for Apple devices - hopefully they have had lots of feedback and will make improvements

I agree with Jerryy - although AF Mode can be selected with a function button which speeds it up just a bit

Looks like a sunny day here in the UK today - a good day to get out with the new camera

The technical specs for each camera show the minimum ISO for each DR setting - here is an example for the X-S10 https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/cameras/x-s10/specifications/ Look for the "Dynamic range setting" section

Maybe you are shooting in compressed raw? If you connect the card via card reader to the MacBook what do you see when you access the card in Finder? Do you see any files? Is it the files that are missing or are the files there but just not readable? Try shooting on jpeg and see if you still get the problem.

How do you know its 30,000 and is this for mechanical shutter (or mostly electronic)?

That should only happen if you are shooting in raw only (in the Image Quality menu) and Backup in the SAVE DATA SETTING menu CARD SLOT SETTING. Are you shooting Raw+Jpeg in the Image Quality menu?

Which camera? Are you in some sort of setting that only supports M like high speed crop?

Looks like fully auto - is the switch on top of the camera set to AUTO?

you are probably in full auto or one of the scene or filter modes - are other options greyed out as well?

Turn it on in the AF Menu: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-s20/menu_shooting/af_mf_setting/index.html#subject_detection_setting or use a function button or the Q menu or do you mean something else?

I'm guessing its because the camera doesn't know what the minimum shutter speed is going to be until it makes a decision about which DR level to choose - and it doesn't do that until you half press the shutter.

1) The subject detection options will attempt to detect the shape of the subject (such as bird) - it doesn't matter what the bird is doing - although it finds it easier if there is good light and it can see an obvious bird head or eye. It will fallback to your AF Mode if it doesn't detect the subject. You can't select a Photometry option when Subject Detection is set. 2) Some of these are switches (like Subject Detection) which applies the action immediately and some take you to menu (like AF Mode) 3) I tend to leave OIS on in Shooting Only mode all the time but some think you should turn it off for high shutter speeds

I'm not really a Capture One user but have tried Capture One Express for Fujifilm - compressed raws work OK - as far as performance goes its swings and roundabouts - files are smaller but need more CPU for decompression - I doubt there is much difference in performance. You could always try downloading a few raw files from the review sites and give it a try.

That looks as though the raw image is corrupted - have you tried converting it using some other software? If you don't have anything else you could try the free FujiFilm raw conversion software and see if you get the same effect? If the file is OK and its just X Raw Studio maybe try a different cable - does it happen every time you try the same file? If you get the same with other software maybe its a card problem? Have you had the same problem with different cards?

I'm not sure if its a Fuji thing but it seems common on X series cameras - its annoying because there is still automation going on in M mode (if you are in auto ISO) and compensation would be helpful.

I don't know - but if I take a picture with my X-S10 and then some time later use the app to transfer the jpeg to my iPhone - then open the Apple Photos app and touch the "i" icon it shows the timestamp from when the image was taken not when it was transferred.

What exactly are you doing and how are you looking at the timestamp?

Thats an interesting question - there appear to be two different remote access interfaces to the camera : Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and USB - the USB interface does have a way of accessing a shutter count - I haven't seen any report that its available via Bluetooth/WiFi.

After lengthy discussion on a different forum it seems there may be issues if you want to geocode images and you use an Apple device. Whichever phone you have its necessary to first connect phone and camera via bluetooth (and turn on the geocoding and location sync settings in the camera). Apple devices will continue to send updated locations to the camera while the phone app is in the foreground OR the camera remains active. When the app goes into the background and the camera sleeps or is turned off and on it won't reconnect. Android devices will reconnect phone and camera even if the app is in the background. Only an issue if you are interested in using the app for geocoding. (The requirement for "always on" even if you are not geocoding seems like lazy programming but I doubt it has a really serious affect on the battery.)